2014 5.7 misfire, now won't start.

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AStanE

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2014 Hemi with ~50k miles on it. Long story short, I felt a slight vibration while driving home on interstate a few weeks back, was very subtle, and I chocked it up to buildup inside my rims as it's been a mess here lately. Next day my wife takes it for a drive and mentions it's really "bouncy". I looked it over that night and found no real issues.

Another day later I'm driving to work and it starts shuddering/bucking and the CEL is flashing. I luckily limped it into parking lot and killed it. Had my dad scan it and it threw codes 0300(rdm mis), 0307(cyl 7 mis), and 0700(trans ctrl sys malfun)... Reset them and tried starting the thing again and it wouldn't run well, I struggle to say it ran at all really, just chugged and died right after ignition.
After looking those codes up I decided to throw a little $ at it and replaced the coil on #7; and I also pulled the battery overnight, to load test it(was healthy) and let things die. Didn't help at all, engine still wouldn't start, and despite having a flashing CEL it then showed no codes whatsoever.

Decided to try another friend's scan tool, but it showed no codes, either. Called a local mechanic who brought his scanner out and, after running the scan believes it to be a "computer", based on fact that he couldn't communicate with some modules. He didn't mention if he saw any other codes.

I took the TIPM out a few days ago and thoroughly looked all the wiring connections over for signs of issues. Found nothing. Cleaned all the connections and then took the TIPM itself apart to inspect and thoroughly/carefully clean the board.. It looked sound. I didn't see any terminals that were super dirty or corroded anywhere. I tested each and every serviceable relay and they all worked; all fuses were clean and tested out good as well. Put that all back together and tried starting again, but got nowhere.

Pulled the fuel supply line to injectors and cycled ignition to see if I was getting flow, it pumped what looked like a very strong volume into a bucket. Obviously this isn't a performance test, but the volume should've been enough to start the engine at least. Hooked fuel lines back up and it still wouldn't start though.

Ended up using a very small, almost non-existent, snort of starting fluid in the air filter just to see if it changed the cranking characteristics; it started, ran smooth for 3-4 seconds, then shuttered like before and died. It did run long enough to start registering codes now though, and is showing a 0027 for the bank 1 exhaust valve solenoid performance/range. But still won't start up and run when cleared out, it just chugs essentially.

All over the place here obviously, but is it possible one of my cats is damaged from the misfiring, and now has the engine bottled up? Wouldn't it throw O2 sensor-related codes if that cat was plugged due to out-of-range readings? I was going to swap two coils and look at those plugs too, but haven't yet just because my thoughts were that one cylinder missing should likely still let the engine start and run poorly, not? Also wondered if that injector for cylinder 7 might have failed open too, and the engine is contending with severe flooding.. I keep thinking back to the 0700 transmission code too, wondering if it that's a cause or symptom.
 

Burla

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Wow on all the effort you put in and that trans code gives some hope, but 95% of the time you get a random mf and a specific one like you did with 7, the cam lob is worn to a nub on 7, especially with you getting a new coil. One thought swap plugs as well 7.

Here is the cam bible thread here.
 
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AStanE

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Why did the failure seemingly "progress" throughout two days though, I wonder? I guess I need to research the cam discussion more, but barring a lifter component locking up, wouldn't the cam/lifter problem take a lot longer to manifest, i.e., a steady decrease in performance across months?
Or is the failure harder to notice due to the variable valve timing, and it just hits once the tolerance isn't there anymore?
 
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AStanE

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....and just to add some more mockery fodder to the thread, because my wounds just need more salt, I have "warranty for life(only mechanical components)" through the dealer I bought it from. But, they aren't able to look at it until March 22nd 2023 AD. Fun times. So I don't really want or need to tear into a whole heck of a lot on it, in case they think to determine whatever attempts I've made might void their end of the bargain.
Good thing is I have to take it to them for the preventative stuff to honor the warranty, and I've never missed an oil change by them, so at least there's history with that site being the ones performing the PM.
 

Burla

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Why did the failure seemingly "progress" throughout two days though, I wonder? I guess I need to research the cam discussion more, but barring a lifter component locking up, wouldn't the cam/lifter problem take a lot longer to manifest, i.e., a steady decrease in performance across months?
Or is the failure harder to notice due to the variable valve timing, and it just hits once the tolerance isn't there anymore?
most lifters are a slow fail item as the cam wears slowly. You will get lack of performance as the lifter does not lift all the way up, up until the lob no longer contacts lifter, and that can be effected by cold oil and metal as well, as in sometimes it will start and sometimes it wont. Being here ten years and reading on this hundreds if not a thousand times, most of them are a slow burn and most of them you can even drive a while as they are failing and misfiring.

other times the cam fails at once, happens maybe 20% pf the time. No ticks no nothing, and then a tick for a day or two, then fail. did you have any tick?
 

Burla

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....and just to add some more mockery fodder to the thread, because my wounds just need more salt, I have "warranty for life(only mechanical components)" through the dealer I bought it from. But, they aren't able to look at it until March 22nd 2023 AD. Fun times. So I don't really want or need to tear into a whole heck of a lot on it, in case they think to determine whatever attempts I've made might void their end of the bargain.
Good thing is I have to take it to them for the preventative stuff to honor the warranty, and I've never missed an oil change by them, so at least there's history with that site being the ones performing the PM.
well I wouldnt say a word to them right? how would they know about your attempts? Anyhow, known issue here in small claims no way could their position hold water if it is the cam.
 

Burla

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50k is a little early when we see these, but it does happen. Most of them fail in the 70k miles to 130k miles window. However, a truck with this low miles from 2014, likely had some harder miles not like a commute truck with easy miles. I'm not saying it is the cam, just that it is most likely a cam. I encourage you to visit lubrication threads when you get it fixed.
 
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AStanE

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well I wouldnt say a word to them right? how would they know about your attempts? Anyhow, known issue here in small claims no way could their position hold water if it is the cam.
My only concern about them knowing/caring would be if I tore into more things and ran into issues buttoning anything back up, or the like. Obviously I want to find an somewhat quicker resolution, but I have to wait.
 
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AStanE

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No tick that I ever heard.
Interesting how these fail, but makes sense.
I'm still at a loss for the transmission code though, and how that mechanic couldn't talk to certain modules. I wish he had more info or was more detailed in the description, but he's kind of an old timer who's likely not interested in troubleshooting this type stuff.
 
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AStanE

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50k is a little early when we see these, but it does happen. Most of them fail in the 70k miles to 130k miles window. However, a truck with this low miles from 2014, likely had some harder miles not like a commute truck with easy miles. I'm not saying it is the cam, just that it is most likely a cam. I encourage you to visit lubrication threads when you get it fixed.
What lubrication thread exactly? Just discussion on how to help keep them in better working order?
 

Burla

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I don't like to post this too much, but since you asked and this is your thread, these hemi's lubrication systems pose challenges not unlike flat tappets. So some thought and consideration should go into what oils are used based on additives and/or viscosity. So hemi tick lubrication threads and polls of members in those threads is how we dealt with this as a collective. There is little doubt that lubrication strategies pay off, ten years plus and we still get success stories all the time. The one thing we have that actually helps us is a ticking condition, kill the tick you in most cases cure the disease. Now, some trucks don't tick and still accumulate damage, would it not be helpful to follow the science of lubrication additives anyhow considering the challenges of the hemi? Much white paper has been posted in syn thread on what types of things can help lower the coefficient of friction.

Search threads in my sig for more info.

kmyvgod-jpg-jpg.jpg

imcvwvj-jpg-jpg.jpg
 

Sillygoose

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I'd pull the driver side valve cover, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the truck watching how the rocker arms move over #7 compared to the others. This isn't too difficult to do or put back together. If your 14 is anything like my 11, loosen the brake booster for more wiggle room to slide the valve cover out . This will tell you if it's the cam or not.
 

Wild one

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I'd pull the driver side valve cover, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the truck watching how the rocker arms move over #7 compared to the others. This isn't too difficult to do or put back together. If your 14 is anything like my 11, loosen the brake booster for more wiggle room to slide the valve cover out . This will tell you if it's the cam or not.
If you pull the starter relay and use a remote starter switch,you don't need to pull the fuel pump fuse,or worry about the truck trying to start,and you can actually be under the hood watching the rockers move while using the remote starter switch to bump the engine over. If you don't have a remote starter switch,you can easily make yourself one.

 
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AStanE

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If you pull the starter relay and use a remote starter switch,you don't need to pull the fuel pump fuse,or worry about the truck trying to start,and you can actually be under the hood watching the rockers move while using the remote starter switch to bump the engine over. If you don't have a remote starter switch,you can easily make yourself one.

Been seriously considering buying/making one of those actually...
 

Wild one

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Been seriously considering buying/making one of those actually...
They're one of those tools you don't use all that often,but are handy as h@ll when you need it. If you do decide to build one similiar to the one in the link,you can use pretty well anything to contain the switch.There's another video floating around of a guy using a pill bottle with a screw on cap to hold the switch,which might be a bit easier to hold.
 
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AStanE

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Anyone heard tell of TCM interfering with/causing additional seemingly unrelated codes, such as what I'm seeing?

My Wife's Honda pilot had to have its injectors changed out, common problem with their direct ports, and it threw almost every damn code known to man when they failed, including TCM-related codes, which thankfully the TCM was covered by an emissions warranty of all things when they decided to replace it. I think that's why I'm still so up in the air about it, because I'm wondering if it's a can bus thing.
 

Burla

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Anyone heard tell of TCM interfering with/causing additional seemingly unrelated codes, such as what I'm seeing?

My Wife's Honda pilot had to have its injectors changed out, common problem with their direct ports, and it threw almost every damn code known to man when they failed, including TCM-related codes, which thankfully the TCM was covered by an emissions warranty of all things when they decided to replace it. I think that's why I'm still so up in the air about it, because I'm wondering if it's a can bus thing.
I don't know about the tcm doing this, however this happens a lot with low battery power. Sometimes when batteries have full charge it really isn't enough because the capacity has gotten low. Especially in winter months, capacity goes down and lifespan goes up, science of batteries.

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AStanE

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Tried resetting codes and turning it over again.
Got two more P027(exhaust valve bank 1 solenoid range/performance) codes right away. Never started, all the thing was turn over.

Battery load-tested fine the other day, too. I wanted to charge it up good before I started troubleshooting anything more, so I pulled out all the stops.
 

Ronnie Smith

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Am I missing something here? You said you shot a small amount of starting fluid in the air cleaner and it ran smooth for 3 to 4 seconds. Have you checked the fuel pressure with a gage. You should be reading 50 to 60 psi.
 

ExpressRules

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I agree with Ronnie Smith. You stated that using starter fluid it started and ran smooth. That to me points to a fuel pressure or injector problem. With the codes you could definitely have other issues, but take an easier route and get a fuel pressure gauge (you can rent one at auto parts store) to try to eliminate a fuel issue.
 
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