If you do buy them, HunterDan makes a good point: Invest in a good balance job. The first balancing sort of sets the wear pattern of the tires ...pretty much for their life. So a good balance job is crucial.
Find a shop which uses a Hunter Road Force Balancer, and make sure they do the full rim-matching process. I always either stand there and watch them (banter with the techs), or if it's my local (small GM) garage, they let me help them. Because what happens is tire techs get lazy and if the machine says they could lose .5 oz if they rotate the tires ...they might say, "awww that's close enough ..not enough to matter." and skip the rim-matching process. Because it takes more time and work. But I've seen multiple times that after rotating the tire on the wheel, the savings can be MORE than the machine predicted. Sometimes a fair amount weight savings. Not always, but sometimes. And on big, heavy tires like you're looking at, which can often take a lot of weight to balance, ...these things matter. Don't walk away and trust tire techs to do the right thing... (sorry former tire techs, many of you are great but some are bad apples).
Well-balanced tires reduces/eliminates downstream driveline wear and increases tire life. So spending a few bucks more up front for a top notch blanace job can save you a lot of $$ in the long run.
Edit: Every GM garage is required to have a pretty new Hunter Road Force balance machine and changer. My small-town GM garage balances them cheaper than any of the tire shops around here. And they do a great job. Put a piece of tape on each wheel ahead of time and ask them to write the final balance score on each, afterwards. If you care to know.