Premature rotor problem

lryr1955 · Mar 13, 2023

I have a 2019 Ram Classic with 65000 miles. I am noticing a vibration on the driver side front wheel when I apply the brake. I am assuming it is a bad rotor. Is it common to have them fail this early or could it be something else? Would it be covered under extended warranty?

crash68 · Mar 13, 2023

Unless you had the brakes really hot then spot cooled them quickly the pulsation your feeling is due in part to a build up of braking debris on the rotors(usually caused by bad braking habits).
Warranties cover mechanical or part failure, but don't cover brake wear.

lryr1955 · Mar 13, 2023

Thank you!

SniperDroid · Mar 13, 2023

crash68 said:
Unless you had the brakes really hot then spot cooled them quickly the pulsation your feeling is due in part to a build up of braking debris on the rotors(usually caused by bad braking habits).
Warranties cover mechanical or part failure, but don't cover brake wear.

I'll thank you, too!! I have a similar problem once in a while on my work van.

Daw14 · Mar 13, 2023

Your caliper maybe sticking , shoot it with an infrared thermometer and compare to the other side .

tron67j · Mar 13, 2023

You don't indicate if you have had brakes done in the past, but recommend replacing rotors instead of turning them. Turning rotors does change the heat dissipation characteristics and can diminish braking. Good luck.

Stavinksi · Mar 16, 2023

crash68 said:
Unless you had the brakes really hot then spot cooled them quickly the pulsation your feeling is due in part to a build up of braking debris on the rotors(usually caused by bad braking habits).
Warranties cover mechanical or part failure, but don't cover brake wear.

What do you mean by bad braking habits?

CanuckRam1313 · Mar 16, 2023

I just replaced my front and rear brakes last on my 19' 1500 5.7 after almost four years and 121,000Km's of driving.

The old rotors still had no vibrations at switch out either. Just the pads were down to about 2mm so it was time for a change.

Although, I do an annual brake service in the late spring to ensure my brakes are clean, slide freely and wear evenly.

I went with the PowerStop Z36 package and did a Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid flush and fill and then followed the brake bedding process they show on their website.

These new brakes are fantastic, and the new upgraded fluid has also made a huge improvement in pedal feel.

Daily Driver44 · Mar 16, 2023

As an option, You can replace the rotors with drilled and slotted rators - believe it or not - from Amazon! And they are not as expensive as you might think!! I replaced mine (all 4) for roughly $300 USD and it came with Detroit Axle brake pads for all. (price is just for the parts)

crash68 · Mar 16, 2023

Stavinksi said:
What do you mean by bad braking habits?

Most people drag their brakes and/or use too little braking force.
If your not progressively applying more force while coming to a stop, your not using enough.
Did work at a facility that tested braking systems for the automotive companies. Talked in depth with an engineer who ran brake testing dynos. As he stated "does more brakes jobs" in a month than Midas does in a year. He said any time the pads is in contact with the rotor it's wearing, the amount of force doesn't effect the amount of wear like one thinks. Too little pressure not only cause more heat to build but the pads/rotors to "polish" each other reducing friction. The added heat can cause more debris to bake on.

Jim BB · Mar 16, 2023

Stavinksi said:
What do you mean by bad braking habits?

waiting to the last minute to apply brakes ie knowing there is a stop sign or red light ahead and drive up to it before applying breaks instead of coasting up to it or driving up to another car going slower and applying brakes at last min to slow ! OR you are towing heavy lots

crash68 · Mar 16, 2023

Jim BB said:
waiting to the last minute to apply brakes ie knowing there is a stop sign or red light ahead and drive up to it before applying breaks instead of coasting up to it or driving up to another car going slower and applying brakes at last min to slow ! OR you are towing heavy lots

You might want to read what I wrote, it's not the hard braking that's tougher on brakes.
Also how is towing heavy a bad braking habit? Usually people rely on their brakes too much while towing.

Jim BB · Mar 16, 2023

crash68 said:
You might want to read what I wrote, it's not the hard braking that's tougher on brakes.
Also how is towing heavy a bad braking habit? Usually people rely on their brakes too much while towing.

Crash i didn't mean to hit quote ! so nothing meant by it ! This is just in my opinion and experiences
but you are correct about the heat heat destroys rotors thus why i said what i said re hard braking at last min or towing heavy your trucks braking system also stops the load of the trailer regardless if you have trailer brakes or not a serton amount of trailer braking is done with the truck even if it is 2% of total trailer braking not every trailer has perfect braking system or set up properly

GTyankee · Mar 16, 2023

As a young driver, i would come close to breaking traction leaving any Light or Sign & approaching a Traffic Light, i use to approach it like i could scare it into turning Green, actually i was hoping the Timing of the changing would work in my favor. If it didn't i would brake hard enough to do a nose dive.

Now if i am half a block from a Traffic light & i see it change, i just Coast to the intersection, using very little brake.
I may be glazing the brake pads, but i get over 100,000 miles before i think about changing them.

For some reason, Ram 1500 front brake rotors are made thin.
You can only turn them once. Which is dumb, fronts do most of the stopping.
Rear rotors are made thicker

Dusty · Mar 20, 2023

tron67j said:
You don't indicate if you have had brakes done in the past, but recommend replacing rotors instead of turning them. Turning rotors does change the heat dissipation characteristics and can diminish braking. Good luck.

"Turning" usually implies a lathe-cut surface. As tron67 implies, I would replace a rotor with a new part every time rather than have them lathe-cut.

The correct way to resurface a rotor is by grinding which is a machining process that uses milling stones to recondition the surfaces. No one around here does this anymore which is why I just buy new.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85726 miles

BLUEDERANGO · Mar 20, 2023

Just my 2 cents worth,, I replaced my pads and rotors with Power Stop ceramic pads and the results were amazing. 108K miles and was getting warped rotor shudder. Replaced and now it stops better than ever and no more "Shudder" Not all that expensive and easy to do.

TomB 1269 · Mar 20, 2023

At 65000 miles your most likely due for brakes to start and at that mileage I would start with new rotors, as others have said turning just decreases their heat dispation. Now if you want to try an clear the pusling run a breakpad breakin proceedure. I am partial to Power stops proceedure.

What is the Break-In Procedure? - PowerStop

The break-in procedure is crucial to making sure your break upgrade performs optimally.

www.powerstop.com

frankherche · Mar 20, 2023

I had a 97 Grand Caravan that the original brakes front wore out at 25,000 mi.
When I need brakes I get the slotted and vented rotors and ceramic pads from Detroit Axel thru EBay. You get everything, even the brake cleaner.

Always Late · Mar 20, 2023

I hope not to get too beat up over this but here goes. If machining rotors it is best to machine them with a on vehicle brake lathe. This keeps the rotor matched with the hub/axle and is very accurate. Yes, they do make on car lathes, that will do most vehicles up to 1 ton, but some shops don't spend the extra $$ and settle for passenger car lathe that may not have the attachments or power to do the heavier vehicle rotors.
If replacing rotors, clean hub flange (usually rust) so, new rotors seat flush against hub flange and check for rotor runout. I have found new rotors (not all) and hubs with runout, causing brake pedal pulsing, requiring on vehicle machining.
Always torque lug nuts to help prevent warping of hub and rotor.

I hope this helps!

Until next time,

Always Late

Hope to be late to my funeral.

CanuckRam1313 · Mar 20, 2023

Always Late said:
I hope not to get too beat up over this but here goes. If machining rotors it is best to machine them with a on vehicle brake lathe. This keeps the rotor matched with the hub/axle and is very accurate. Yes, they do make on car lathes, that will do most vehicles up to 1 ton, but some shops don't spend the extra $$ and settle for passenger car lathe that may not have the attachments or power to do the heavier vehicle rotors.
If replacing rotors, clean hub flange (usually rust) so, new rotors seat flush against hub flange and check for rotor runout. I have found new rotors (not all) and hubs with runout, causing brake pedal pulsing, requiring on vehicle machining.
Always torque lug nuts to help prevent warping of hub and rotor.

I hope this helps!

Until next time,

Always Late

Hope to be late to my funeral.

It's funny you say all this.
Back in the day I worked at a Nissan dealership where they would turn the rotors on the vehicle, and properly clean/sand wheel the rotor hub surface to ensure a flat and true job.

Unfortunate that on car, or any brake turning in today's world is a thing of the past!

Getting quality brakes pretty much ensures a good job. Spending the few extra dollars on quality first line brake parts, in my opinion only, is an expense I can bear, especially when I'm cruising at highway speeds in a 6,000lb truck.

And torquing lug nutz in the proper sequence to the proper OEM spec and then retorquing after about 100Km's or so is extremely important. Too many rotors get screwed just jamming on lug nuts until they stop turning.

Premature rotor problem

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