Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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danielmid

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Look at your 100C viscosity. Not sure what's going on with dates since they usually are in decreasing order from left to right, but it sure looks to me like you got an API SP reformulated oil for your short run.

Notoriously lower viscosity within SAE grade to "save" fuel. :rolleyes:

I'd urge an SAE 40 wt viscosity now, except for the race oils that don't give a rip about EPA CAFE can stay a true mid or high vis SAE 30.
It goes newest to oldest in order L to R. Visc I'm sure was affected by the long distance tow, but I don't have any data to suggest your theory is incorrect either.

My next interval is a mix oil so it will be useless for comparison's sake. That and I'm in a place with winter now so next change will be either RL 5-30 or HPL SC 0-30, still undecided.
 

HK1837

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After Dave from Redline's assurance that the new labelled Redline 5W-30 oil is just a label change (thanks Burla!), I ordered 20 quarts of it on a 15% Ebay deal with free freight. It is still expensive in Australia but I know it works and anything else is an experiment. For some reason it is about $10 cheaper here a the moment for 4 x 1 quart bottles rather than 1 x 4 quart, but I'm not complaining as those are easier to pour into the Hemi.
First 10 turned up today, they are all the black lettering versions anyway. They weren't packed like this, I just put them all in the one box.IMG_6352[1].JPG
 

danielmid

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so, just out of curiosity, what is your guys fascination with this Redline 5w30 over something lets say as decent as the PUP 5w30 ??? I mean I can get 3 of the 5 qt jugs of PUP off Amazon sent to the house, that covers 2 full oil changes, for roughly $100 (IMO an ABSURDLY good choice weighing the cost + the oil's quality). I'd spend $$double$$ that on the RL 5w30. Can that RL oil be that much better? Not trying to be dismissive here, or a know it all, just trying to gain some knowledge/insights.
:favorites13:
There is a plethora of information and test results in this thread and in the one linked below that show Red Line being worth the extra cost, and a few members who have used Red Line and cured some engine noise that is typically a precursor to engine lifter damage that no other oil could touch.

 

knightjp

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so, just out of curiosity, what is your guys fascination with this Redline 5w30 over something lets say as decent as the PUP 5w30 ??? I mean I can get 3 of the 5 qt jugs of PUP off Amazon sent to the house, that covers 2 full oil changes, for roughly $100 (IMO an ABSURDLY good choice weighing the cost + the oil's quality). I'd spend $$double$$ that on the RL 5w30. Can that RL oil be that much better? Not trying to be dismissive here, or a know it all, just trying to gain some knowledge/insights.
In my first truck, I used Mopar 5w20 and the dreaded tick manifested itself on the 7th year of ownership. This happened despite me being so careful with my maintenance and changing the oil every 10,000kms.
We noticed that the tick was coming from one of the banks. We just changed the lifters in that bank and then based on @Burla recommendation, I used Redline oil. The engine was smooth and sweet, right until I smashed the truck.
On the second truck, since I bought it used, there was a slight tick. Seemed to go away after I used RL 5W30. Continued, right until RL wasn't in stock. This about the same time I noticed a slight tick. This wasn't the dreaded one as I would find out later.
With RL being out of stock, I used AMSoil 5W30. In a matter of weeks, the tick became completely unbearable and I had to change it as soon a possible.
Again, only one bank had failed. So in order to save cost, I replaced the one bank and the best of the old ones were used for the other. We decided to use Castrol Magnatec Start Stop 5W30 after the rebuild.
In about a month after, the tick came back. I tried to remedy it by using a thicker oil, and that made it worse.
I had to replace the old lifters and decided to go with Redline 5W30, since it was back in stock. You can take my experience with a grain of salt. Everyone has their own experiences. Had I replaced all the lifters, maybe using Castrol Magnatec would have worked. However time and again, to many users on this forum, Redline has proven itself worthy of the moniker "HEMI Honey".
You can ask @Burla and @Hemi395. They have more experience with knowledge with RL. I believe @Hemi395 uses Redline whenever his engine has the tick and it just cures it.
If RL does that for his engine, I'd say that it is really that much better.
 

Hemi395

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so, just out of curiosity, what is your guys fascination with this Redline 5w30 over something lets say as decent as the PUP 5w30 ??? I mean I can get 3 of the 5 qt jugs of PUP off Amazon sent to the house, that covers 2 full oil changes, for roughly $100 (IMO an ABSURDLY good choice weighing the cost + the oil's quality). I'd spend $$double$$ that on the RL 5w30. Can that RL oil be that much better? Not trying to be dismissive here, or a know it all, just trying to gain some knowledge/insights.
:favorites13:

Listen to this video vs the one posted in the next post and you'll have your answer.

 

Burla

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so, just out of curiosity, what is your guys fascination with this Redline 5w30 over something lets say as decent as the PUP 5w30 ??? I mean I can get 3 of the 5 qt jugs of PUP off Amazon sent to the house, that covers 2 full oil changes, for roughly $100 (IMO an ABSURDLY good choice weighing the cost + the oil's quality). I'd spend $$double$$ that on the RL 5w30. Can that RL oil be that much better? Not trying to be dismissive here, or a know it all, just trying to gain some knowledge/insights.
:favorites13:
Well, when you say redline you think of a brand, we think more about the formula. High moly and pao/ester base oils. When we as a forum were developing strategies to deal with what scourges us (hemi tick), we tried many brands to get to a formula that works, and that was further proven by a similar stragey that proved to be about 1/2 as effective that is very similar science. So in my sig read those threads and read the polls, long time ram forum members by the hundreds have tried these strategies to great success rates. Even many years before we did these polls we had running counts that also had redline at a near 80% success rate at killing tick. Now, you say it is expensive ok, but if it actually fixes a condition in the engine that many other oils don't, then you would run a cheap oil or an oil that provides proper lubrication in a poor lubrication environment? Last point then you can read further or not, I'm sure this answers your question..

Found by another member here, you can see page ten of the lubegard thread, read the metalurgy or a worn cam. The cam lifter issue is a known thing is nearly every garage across the US, so you will get many ideas about why this happens. The heavy usage of redline only comes from the success of it over time at killing tick, period. It isnt the most popular oils on the board, that belongs to pennzoil-1, m1-2, and amsoil -3. However, redline is 4, and only on specific applications such as harleys would you find similar results, this question in any other forum you would be lucky if redline is in top ten.
 

REDinAZ

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EXCELLENT info from everyone on what Red Line oil specifically offers for the HEMI! THANK YOU!

BTW I've always know about Red Line products, I grew up in NorCal which is Redline's home, have driven way too many times thru the oil refinery fields of the 680 freeway corridor. Red Line was already sitting on shelves in NorCal speed shops as far back I can remember, definitely in the very early 90's, even back then it was already considered the VERY top of the line, but probably not yet known as well elsewhere. Back when Kendall GT-1 was the conventional oil car guys bought, qt bottles of that "mean green" was sitting on shelves in 12 pack cases.

THANK YOU for the Lubegard additive recommendation, I will read more, maybe pick up a bottle. FWIW I have been adding 8 oz of Hot Shot's Secret FR3 to all the '17's oil changes for quiet a long time now. Saw some drag race guy shill it on the "Engine Power" show one night, so I figured what the heck. Might be another HEMI additive to to look into, maybe experiment with. I ain't complaining about it. Stay good everybody!

RED
Gilbert, Arizona

20230306_180800.jpg
 
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Burla

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EXCELLENT info from everyone on what Red Line oil specifically offers for the HEMI! THANK YOU!

BTW I've always know about Red Line products, I grew up in NorCal which is Redline's home, have driven way too many times thru the oil refinery fields of the 680 freeway corridor. Red Line was already sitting on shelves in NorCal speed shops as far back I can remember, definitely in the very early 90's, even back then it was already considered the VERY top of the line, but probably not yet known as well elsewhere. Back when Kendall GT-1 was the conventional oil car guys bought, qt bottles of that "mean green" was sitting on shelves in 12 pack cases.

THANK YOU for the Lubegard additive recommendation, I will read more, maybe pick up a bottle. FWIW I have been adding 8 oz of Hot Shot's Secret FR3 to all the '17's oil changes for quiet a long time now. Saw some drag race guy shill it on the "Engine Power" show one night, so I figured what the heck. Might be another HEMI additive to to look into, maybe experiment with. I ain't complaining about it. Stay good everybody!

RED
Gilbert, Arizona

View attachment 516563

With it only being 10 bucks on amazon it might be worth a shot. The bad part of ram forum testing was as results grew many products that perhaps we should have tested we didnt end up testing, and this one is one of them for sure. Maybe now that boutique oils are costing guys half an arm and their left nut to buy, we can test some of the more scientifically sound additives to add to lubegard as hemi tick killers. I couldnt get any support for testing on HPL eventhough the science on the formula is incredible. So for me the testing is over, but I support this product as something fairly safe to try from the sds and the known things about the product. Maybe due to price HPL testing never took off? Well this is ten bucks, some guys with some dry start knocking spend ten bucks and see if this erases it. I can tell you doing nothing in the face of tick is more risky then trying a strategy to get rid of it.
 

knightjp

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THANK YOU for the Lubegard additive recommendation, I will read more, maybe pick up a bottle. FWIW I have been adding 8 oz of Hot Shot's Secret FR3 to all the '17's oil changes for quiet a long time now. Saw some drag race guy shill it on the "Engine Power" show one night, so I figured what the heck. Might be another HEMI additive to to look into, maybe experiment with. I ain't complaining about it. Stay good everybody!

RED
Gilbert, Arizona

View attachment 516563
OK.. So it wasn't just PUP 5W20 then. LOL..

Hotshot Secret seems to have some good stuff. I would like to give it it a shot myself.
 

Burla

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A VOA of FR3 shows nothing meanigful in terms of additives except 59 ppm or silicon. Msds lists 10 percent tri methyol propane ester
good info, would this qualify as an ester additive? Something else is a working theory is an ester additive might solve some tick, as yes lg has decent moly also has fatty ester. When we see TGMO and other oils valvoline and all other oils with high moly not kill tick, just maybe it is the esters and/or it is esters combined with moly. The stuff we don't know because we didnt test a more diverse group of additives and oils. The science of moly suggests it is part of the picture as it takes time to plate and we often see that. However, some guys tick goes way right away, and I don't believe that is the moly, so what it that? As long as their is some science to back and theory, and no high risk or snake oil, whatever gets that tick out is gonna be a better long term outcome then leaving the tick imo.
 

Travis8352

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good info, would this qualify as an ester additive? Something else is a working theory is an ester additive might solve some tick, as yes lg has decent moly also has fatty ester. When we see TGMO and other oils valvoline and all other oils with high moly not kill tick, just maybe it is the esters and/or it is esters combined with moly. The stuff we don't know because we didnt test a more diverse group of additives and oils. The science of moly suggests it is part of the picture as it takes time to plate and we often see that. However, some guys tick goes way right away, and I don't believe that is the moly, so what it that? As long as their is some science to back and theory, and no high risk or snake oil, whatever gets that tick out is gonna be a better long term outcome then leaving the tick imo.
That has to be what they intend to be the friction modifier. I just wish it contained some more additives
 

Burla

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last gas powered muscle car 1000+ HP, so they say. Only 97k which I find cheap considering?

The 2023 Challenger SRT Demon 170 will deliver 1,025 horsepower from its 6.2-liter supercharged V-8, and the automaker says it will be the quickest production car made.

Stellantis will stop making gas versions of the Dodge Challenger and Charger and the Chrylser 300 big sedan by the end of this year, squeezed out by stricter government fuel-economy regulations and an accelerating shift to electric vehicles to fight climate change.

The Canadian factory that makes all three cars will be retooled to make electric versions of larger cars starting next year. Stellantis hasn’t said whether all three models will survive, but it did show off a Charger Daytona SRT electric concept muscle car back in August.


My guess, this will end mopar, will go the way of Pontiac. Nobody is buying EV's, forcing them as the only option isnt gonna work. Currently only 1% of vehicles sold are ev. Like we have to listen to all the bull snot for 1%? It is suicide, they should have followed the toyota model and have zippy little 4 bangers, nobody is shutting down toyota. If I had 100k just maybe I would get one of these, 0 to 60 in 1.66 seconds.


.
 

HEMIMANN

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last gas powered muscle car 1000+ HP, so they say. Only 97k which I find cheap considering?

The 2023 Challenger SRT Demon 170 will deliver 1,025 horsepower from its 6.2-liter supercharged V-8, and the automaker says it will be the quickest production car made.

Stellantis will stop making gas versions of the Dodge Challenger and Charger and the Chrylser 300 big sedan by the end of this year, squeezed out by stricter government fuel-economy regulations and an accelerating shift to electric vehicles to fight climate change.

The Canadian factory that makes all three cars will be retooled to make electric versions of larger cars starting next year. Stellantis hasn’t said whether all three models will survive, but it did show off a Charger Daytona SRT electric concept muscle car back in August.


My guess, this will end mopar, will go the way of Pontiac. Nobody is buying EV's, forcing them as the only option isnt gonna work. Currently only 1% of vehicles sold are ev. Like we have to listen to all the bull snot for 1%? It is suicide, they should have followed the toyota model and have zippy little 4 bangers, nobody is shutting down toyota. If I had 100k just maybe I would get one of these, 0 to 60 in 1.66 seconds.


.

Just read 42x more lithium mined is needed. Yeah, THAT'LL be happening overnight.
Bureaucrats that haven't done any real work in their entire lives, and not listening to those of us who have. Typical.

Fire us when we make them face reality. That'll fix it! :rolleyes:
 

Burla

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Apparently nobody looked up rare earth metal reserves, because if they are correct, they will run out of battery metals long before we run out of gas, but that isnt why they are doing it, so apparently it wont matter people will no longer be able to travel they way we have for 100 years.
 

Stefan N

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Tesla is making 2 different battery packs I think
LFP is 43% cheaper to make
NMC is way more energy dense and just need 65-70% of what LFP need
 

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