RV Towing Newbie

S.Dodge · Apr 2, 2022

Panduh said:
Hello RAM experts! I am trying to do my due diligence before shopping for a used RAM to tow an RV trailer, neither of which I have ever owned. Still learning all about what specs affect towing capacities, safety accessories, etc. Hoping that a properly spec'ed 1500 will do the job.
My 1st question is: how much safety margin would you advise between the rated max towing weight and the actual GVW of the trailer (with water, some payload, etc.)? For ex., if the truck is rated to tow 8500 lbs, would I be safe towing 6500 lbs? 7000? Assuming the GAWR is within limits as well. Thanks!

S.Dodge · Apr 2, 2022

Don't even look at a 1500 ram as far as I'm concerned. No payload and hard on fuel. Just last week I used my 1500 outdoorsman, 3.92 gears to take my boat out of storage a 45 min drive from my house. 3700lb boat and though it pulls it fine you can really tell its there and even squats the rear end down. Any weight in the bed and I notice it even more. Then I went back with the 2500 Cummins with air ride suspension to get my 42 foot, 12,000 pound 5th wheel and its like it's not even there. People use 1500's to tow but they don't do it well and not near as efficiently as an HD diesel. I've had lots of both and ram 1500 is to light of a set up in my opinion. Just wait until that wind catches you on the highway.

runamuck · Apr 22, 2022

you'll be fine with a 1500 5.7 3.92 ccsb for most trailers up to 28-29' and maybe 7000#. keep in mind a 5000# trailer will weigh close to 6000# when you get loaded for travel. my laramie pulls our 6000# 28' travel trailer fine. I can set cruise for 67-68 and get 8.5-10 mpg. I got the 33 gal tank to maximize range. true, the more accessories your truck has, the less cargo you can pack. my laramie only has 1324# so I pack light in the truck and carry more in the trailer. the ram 1500 has coil springs so many of us add air bags and run some air when towing to stiffen it up. also get a weight distribution hitch and use Tow/Haul. S.Dodge is right that HD will do it better and right now 1500's with all the stuff good for towing are not much cheaper than a 2500 gasser. If you plan to make long trips in the higher elevations you might want to go dsl but that's quite a jump in cost to weigh against how much towing vs daily driving you will do with the truck.

JerryETX · Apr 22, 2022

With bumper pull travel trailers weight is obviously a factor but what is often overlooked is length. If you live in an area where it's often windy pulling a 32' travel trailer most of the time will be a white knuckle experience. Not at all enjoyable. There are some $3500 anti-sway hitches you can buy that will reduce most of the sway if the longer trailer is an option. Where I live and travel to it's windy a lot so I wouldn't consider over a 28' bumper pull with a 1/2 ton without a $3500 Hensley WD hitch.

Wind is a big factor.

runamuck · Apr 23, 2022

yes towing windy can get interesting. a cross-wind gust will get your attention. I tend to pull slower if it's windy and a couple times took an alternate route so I wouldnt be on the interstate. 28' or so is the cut off for me too. if we see a bigger trailer we cant do without, we will also upgrade to a 2500 so the tail wont be wagging the dog.

Joker22dCBCS · May 9, 2022

I'm in the same boat as the poster- first time trailering. I'm looking at getting a 30' Airstream and decided to go all out on ordering a 2022 Ram 3500, Mega Cab, Limited Longhorn w/auto-leveling, etc. I'm trying to maintain maximum payload and was curious if the wheel size between the 18's & optional 20's makes a difference?

2003F350 · May 16, 2022

Joker22dCBCS said:
I'm in the same boat as the poster- first time trailering. I'm looking at getting a 30' Airstream and decided to go all out on ordering a 2022 Ram 3500, Mega Cab, Limited Longhorn w/auto-leveling, etc. I'm trying to maintain maximum payload and was curious if the wheel size between the 18's & optional 20's makes a difference?

It actually can depending on what tires you've got and how sturdy the sidewalls are. The 20" wheels give you less sidewall, which means less potential for side-to-side movement of the tires. However, with a good load range E tire, the 18" wheels will perform just as well.

As for getting the Mega Cab Longhorn Limited...You actually could have gotten considerably more payload by going with a Crew Cab Laramie or Big Horn. That Limited Longhorn has a LOT of extra bells and whistles that take away from your payload, and the Mega Cab gives you a smaller box than a Crew Cab for the same wheelbase. The Mega Cab DOES give you more interior storage behind the rear seats, but if I recall you don't gain any more leg room for rear seat passengers.

badass2500 · May 18, 2022

2003F350 said:
The Mega Cab DOES give you more interior storage behind the rear seats, but if I recall you don't gain any more leg room for rear seat passengers.

Just camped for the first time with our new (to us) 2018 Laramie Megacab 2500 (had a 1500 Big Horn previously). OMG...with the rear seats folded down (making a large, flat area) we were able to get practically everything we normally take with us (including folding table and two camp chairs) into the back seat area. Oh, and plenty of room for rear seat passengers in the normal configuration. I think once you go Mega there's no going back.

2003F350 · May 19, 2022

badass2500 said:
Just camped for the first time with our new (to us) 2018 Laramie Megacab 2500 (had a 1500 Big Horn previously). OMG...with the rear seats folded down (making a large, flat area) we were able to get practically everything we normally take with us (including folding table and two camp chairs) into the back seat area. Oh, and plenty of room for rear seat passengers in the normal configuration. I think once you go Mega there's no going back.

Oh I'm sure it works for some people...And I'm not saying they should go away. Just that it doesn't work for me.

VernDiesel · May 25, 2022

Good thread mostly really good info and advice. You can tell most people who have replied have spent time towing TTs and camping. To OPs questions Crash answered it well there is sufficient safety margin built in per Society of Automotive engineers requirements. The only reason for more margin is for people who don't have a WDH and have no idea of how to set weight distribution. The key is in the WDH you referred and taking advantage of a CAT scale. Ram recommends a WDH for any travel trailer that exceeds 5,000 pounds. First measure your unloaded front wheel well height from the ground. After attaching TT and adjusting WDH to get the front of the truck back down to within 1/2" of unloaded height you should be in the zone so to speak to at minimum take your truck and trailer to the CAT scales.

Sometimes its not necessary but often if you are towing a TT that when loaded will be within say 1,000 or 1,500 pounds of your trucks rated maximum capacity. You may be amazed at how much more stable safe and easy to tow that same trailer can become by using your WDH & loading using scale results. You want to set your steer axle weight near its unloaded weight and tongue weight to ideally around 12.0% of the gross trailer weight. Between batteries propane minimal water & supplies most people put about 1,000 pounds in a bumper pull travel trailer. So if you start with a dry weight of 6k you end up with a "wet" weight of 7k. Setting tongue weight via scale results to say 12.0% means you would see about 840 pounds of tongue weight on your truck.

FWIW I've used my 1500 diesel to transport Airstreams from the plant to their dealerships nationwide for 8 years and 875,000 miles. I didn't buy a half ton to do this business but due to its fuel efficiency (often 15 mpg towing) and the size of new unloaded Airstreams I kept the ED. Experience in setting up Manufacturers Airstreams, Box travel trailers, and boats to CAT scale results before transporting them cross country has taught me the same heavy for the truck trailer can go from a white knuckle tow to a two fingers driveable tow with only weight redistribution. That said per your question its still wise to option and outfit your truck for optimum towing. For the 1500 that would be a modern WDH with built in sway control. Ideally the 3.92, a factory TBC, trailer brake controller & tow mirrors. Last due to the overly soft coil springs Ram chose ideally axle to frame air bags to help support and control the suspension on rough roads as well as dramatically improve the ride.

09'-18' RAM 1500 — Timber Grove Enterprises, LLC

timbergroveenterprises.com

Lance1985 · Mar 18, 2023

When backing the trailer I have found it handy to put my hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and turn it in the direction you want the trailer to go. Don't overdo it though. Smaller turns of the wheel are better.

2003F350 · Mar 22, 2023

I'm skipping a lot of posts, because most of the smart guys have already chimed in, but there's ONE point that might not have been made that I'd like to make:

Figure out what trailer you want and will suit your needs before deciding on a truck.

If you're sticking with a travel trailer (some call it a bumper pull), if you stay under 35-ish feet long and under 8-9k GVWR you should be okay with a 1500. Might be pushing the limits but probably not illegal or unsafe. If you're going over those lengths and weights, you're likely going to want a 2500.

Unless you're getting a Scamp fifth wheel, there isn't a fifth wheel I'd put behind a modern half-ton truck, even if they claim they're 'half-ton towable'. The pin weight alone puts you over the average payload of most half-ton trucks, so forget about any passengers or gear in the truck. If you're looking at your average fifth wheel, you're going to be well-served to at least get a 2500, the 6.4 gasser is no slouch and gives you more payload because it's lighter than the diesel.

If you decide that an average camper isn't going to cut it for you, and you need to have all the luxuries and bells and whistles of a heavy 35-40' fifth wheel, you're going to want a 3500 SRW, the 6.4 will handle the job but if you plan to be on the road a lot then you may want the diesel for torque.

If you decide you have to have a top-of-the-line rig, 40+ foot long with all the bells and whistles, whether it be just a fifth wheel or a big, tall-sided toyhauler, you're getting into 3500 DRW or bigger territory (the Ford F450 is a popular choice for these rigs). These rigs come with pin weights approaching or exceeding 3k lbs that lesser trucks just can't handle, and the stability of the extra tires in the back of your truck is worth its weight in gold.

This is my two cents, take it or leave it.

Kool-aid kid · Mar 22, 2023

Panduh said:
Hello RAM experts! I am trying to do my due diligence before shopping for a used RAM to tow an RV trailer, neither of which I have ever owned. Still learning all about what specs affect towing capacities, safety accessories, etc. Hoping that a properly spec'ed 1500 will do the job.
My 1st question is: how much safety margin would you advise between the rated max towing weight and the actual GVW of the trailer (with water, some payload, etc.)? For ex., if the truck is rated to tow 8500 lbs, would I be safe towing 6500 lbs? 7000? Assuming the GAWR is within limits as well. Thanks!

A lot of good advice on here. Yes, a 1/2 ton will pull a lot but be wary of the trailers advertised as "1/2 ton towable". These generally are of a size that push the limits. A lot of things affect how well a truck and trailer handle. I own a trailer that was advertised as 1/2 ton towable but I own a 3/4 ton. The model was advertised and numbered as a 29 footer. I'll admit I'm not sure how length is determined but the body of the trailer measure 33ft. With tongue that puts it in the 35+ foot range that 2003F350 mentioned. I have pulled it with a 1/2 ton but did not like the way it "felt". As several have said "pick your camper then pick your truck.

nlambert182 · Mar 22, 2023

Kool-aid kid said:
A lot of good advice on here. Yes, a 1/2 ton will pull a lot but be wary of the trailers advertised as "1/2 ton towable". These generally are of a size that push the limits. A lot of things affect how well a truck and trailer handle. I own a trailer that was advertised as 1/2 ton towable but I own a 3/4 ton. The model was advertised and numbered as a 29 footer. I'll admit I'm not sure how length is determined but the body of the trailer measure 33ft. With tongue that puts it in the 35+ foot range that 2003F350 mentioned. I have pulled it with a 1/2 ton but did not like the way it "felt". As several have said "pick your camper then pick your truck.

On a fifth wheel the length is based on rear of the living quarters to the beginning of the overhang. So usually they're about 3-5' longer than advertised. Just a guess, but I assume on a travel trailer that they're only accounting for frame length minus the tongue.

When these folks advertise 1/2 ton, they aren't talking about the 1/2 tons that most of us have. They're talking about the unicorn 1/2 ton that are almost impossible to get.

Loudram · Mar 22, 2023

nlambert182 said:
Just a guess, but I assume on a travel trailer that they're only accounting for frame length minus the tongue.

You're close.

The advertised length on a travel trailer is from ball to bumper. It used to be that the first two numbers in the model number was the actual box length but not so much anymore. That only holds true in some cases now.

PappyD · Mar 22, 2023

...So much GREAT information!

I have to chime in as I have a 1500 Laramie, 5.7 Hemi, and the 3.21 axle. Wife and I had a Roadtrek Class B van for a couple of years and wanted to switch to a trailer. So, we bought a 2015 Ram in 2019 and in the same year bought a Keystone Passport 23RB. About 27' total with a dry weight of 5800. Added Air Lift air bags to the rear coils, E rated tires, and a Curt TruTrak WDH. Pulls like a dream, etc.

So now we are 3 years into this rig and are considering getting something "a little bigger".
Here is what I found out. During a big multiweek road trip I pulled through a CAT scale, 2 times, to get hitched and unhitched weights. Going by the sticker on the truck, I was pretty much maxed out on payload. We laughed but when adding the weights - 2 passengers, 45 lb dog, 100 lb generator, 32 gallon fuel tank, tools, popup gazebo, lawn chairs, kayaks, etc, etc, we were on the edge. (put the dog on a diet!)

I think I could "get away" with pulling heavier but maybe not. IF WE STAY with the current setup we'll be fine. I keep saying though - "new RV...then bigger truck". Easy to see in campgrounds as we walk around - lots of 3/4 and 1 tons.

I'll cast my vote for getting the 2500.

mtofell · Mar 22, 2023

Loudram said:
You're close.

The advertised length on a travel trailer is from ball to bumper. It used to be that the first two numbers in the model number was the actual box length but not so much anymore. That only holds true in some cases now.

Worth adding this is how the manufacturer lists them. Dealers and private party sellers? It's all over the map. some go bumper to ball, some do just floor space. Best practice is to take your tape measure with you if length is a concern.

nlambert182 · Mar 22, 2023

mtofell said:
Worth adding this is how the manufacturer lists them. Dealers and private party sellers? It's all over the map. some go bumper to ball, some do just floor space. Best practice is to take your tape measure with you if length is a concern.

What I figured out on most fifth wheels is that if you take the model number and add 4, you get pretty close to the actual length. For example, my last rig was a Chaparral 392MBL. so 39+4 = 43. Measured bumper to nose, it was 43' 1".

I haven't had a TT in a decade or better so I didn't want to assume that they were the same.

I've noticed that dealers in my area always advertise them shorter than they are. Private sellers... whole other ballgame..... I think some just toss a few numbers at the wall and whatever sticks is what they go with.

dhay13 · Mar 22, 2023

My son has a Grand Design Imagine 2670MK, advertised as 26'. Total is about 32' with spare tire and coupler. Step-son had a Grand Design Imagine 3250BH and total length was 36'

2003F350 · Mar 23, 2023

For those of you who are trying to figure out the rhyme/reason for numbers on RVs today: As someone who was in the RV industry for a while, the numbers...don't actually mean much anymore other than a manufacturing code. From what I can tell every manufacturer does things just a little different now.

For instance I have a shadow cruiser 277BHS. Literature claims it's 32'10" long. Actual measurement from ball to bumper is about 34'. Include the spare on the rear and it's pushing 35'.

Their 280QBS claims it is 31'11", so my lower numerical model number is actually longer per their literature.

Gone are the days when the numbers meant length. Today it feels like they just slap numbers on.

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