Synthetic Oil

Oil of Choice

  • Castrol Syntec/Edge

    Votes: 233 8.4%
  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 325 11.7%
  • AMSOil

    Votes: 396 14.3%
  • Valvoline Synpower

    Votes: 160 5.8%
  • Mobil 1

    Votes: 992 35.9%
  • Other

    Votes: 660 23.9%

  • Total voters
    2,766

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Burla

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Tesla is making 2 different battery packs I think
LFP is 43% cheaper to make
NMC is way more energy dense and just need 65-70% of what LFP need
yeah, good info thanks posting. Need to look into that a bit, we will need other options then rare earth metals if this will have a chnace.

BTW, I am not one for tats, but this one I have to say is Burla approved.


Fish-Tape.jpg
 

Burla

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Tesla is making 2 different battery packs I think
LFP is 43% cheaper to make
NMC is way more energy dense and just need 65-70% of what LFP need
Good to know this, looking at the info on this it at least makes me feel comfortable see this as part of this answer. Personally, I think the only true answer is cellulose however you want to skin that cat, but it is great to see this advancement, appreciate it. How to generate the power is another challenge, how you do it without cellulose for the masses long term, someone smarter then me will have to figure that one.
 

AStanE

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Hypothetical here.

IF you were bringing your truck to a dealership for oil changes, that are mandatory to be performed by them, in order to maintain a mechanical warranty they provided with vehicle purchase, how comfortable would you be in: 1) the oil they use 2) the filter they use and 3) the job they do; with regard to overall engine life and staving off any possible top end issues?

I would rather do the work myself, and use a higher-quality syn oil/filter combo, but obviously my hands are a little tied by the fact I don't want to void a warranty should something actually arise that would benefit from having the warranty.

Would you drain some oil out and add in a quart of oil with better additives?

Would you add in a stabilizer or treatment product?

Would you blow money on the work they did and dump it, save their filter, add new oil and better filter, and then swap filters out a day before bringing it back for its next change? Extreme and silly I know.
 

Burla

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Hypothetical here.

IF you were bringing your truck to a dealership for oil changes, that are mandatory to be performed by them, in order to maintain a mechanical warranty they provided with vehicle purchase, how comfortable would you be in: 1) the oil they use 2) the filter they use and 3) the job they do; with regard to overall engine life and staving off any possible top end issues?

I would rather do the work myself, and use a higher-quality syn oil/filter combo, but obviously my hands are a little tied by the fact I don't want to void a warranty should something actually arise that would benefit from having the warranty.

Would you drain some oil out and add in a quart of oil with better additives?

Would you add in a stabilizer or treatment product?

Would you blow money on the work they did and dump it, save their filter, add new oil and better filter, and then swap filters out a day before bringing it back for its next change? Extreme and silly I know.
If it is a dealer lifetime warranty, I wouldn't do anything but let them change the oil and on what ever interval they said. So it depends on the warranty and length of, and if it was lifetime was every inspection performned correctly and timely?

Stabilzer = never unless you have bad rings and are smoking.

Bottom line, read your warranty, and follow what it says. Even if you can do your own changes because of mag/moss warranty act, you need to read what they say your responsibilites are and follow them. Something nobody does, but you should have read that before you bought it, if you paid for that warranty.
 

AStanE

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If it is a dealer lifetime warranty, I wouldn't do anything but let them change the oil and on what ever interval they said. So it depends on the warranty and length of, and if it was lifetime was every inspection performned correctly and timely?

Stabilzer = never unless you have bad rings and are smoking.

Bottom line, read your warranty, and follow what it says. Even if you can do your own changes because of mag/moss warranty act, you need to read what they say your responsibilites are and follow them. Something nobody does, but you should have read that before you bought it, if you paid for that warranty.
I did read it, pretty vague. I would rather avoid any future breakdowns, even if they can cover it. It's a pretty simple warranty for life. They include it with cost of vehicle and will not exclude, so basically you pay for it via built-in cost. I was ok with it because of such low mileage/good condition vehicle was and still is in, so I can afford a tradeoff, but in the future I wouldn't bother with a dealership that does this. Responsibilities are basically follow maint schedules per manual, and have it done by them.
Basically a revenue guarantee for the dealership.
 

Burla

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Well you bought the warranty for a reason and in my opinion you should honor it on your end. Now, if you get some tick that bothers you try lubegard biotech, if by chance something internal happens, you could always change the oil before bringing it to them. But no I wouldn't change the oil twice everytime, if you are concerned bring your own oil to them. Oil changes arent making any dealers rich, in fact that industry is stressed like no other.
 

Hemi395

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6xx miles into this RL 5w30 tick rescue OCI and its running butter smooth again. I'll get a video soon and post it with the ticking Valvoline one.

Pretty safe to say it's not just moly that kills ticks or Valvoline would've worked better.
 

Burla

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6xx miles into this RL 5w30 tick rescue OCI and its running butter smooth again. I'll get a video soon and post it with the ticking Valvoline one.

Pretty safe to say it's not just moly that kills ticks or Valvoline would've worked better.
keep us updated, I aint gonna be happy til you say 5k miles no tick. That ebay fella got out of the redline business 100%, crazy. Too bad as well, I am curious how he could basically give redline away with everyone else wanting an arm and leg for it. And he had access to at least 20 more cases. Maybe he just didnt realize the cost of shipping, lol? I fear days of 10 dollar redline are gone for good.
 

Zoe Saldana

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keep us updated, I aint gonna be happy til you say 5k miles no tick. That ebay fella got out of the redline business 100%, crazy. Too bad as well, I am curious how he could basically give redline away with everyone else wanting an arm and leg for it. And he had access to at least 20 more cases. Maybe he just didnt realize the cost of shipping, lol? I fear days of 10 dollar redline are gone for good.
You can get close - buy 3 free shipping.
 

Burla

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10w30 redline $53 gal.

So the pricing of everything last year was based on an inflation rate of 7.0, well the numbers just came out for this new year and the is not good at 6.5. So expect the horrible increases to get worse, just the facts these numbers were just released last week, as bad as pricing is it will be going up again. All of the measures taken to slow or stop inflation only shows a .5% decrease. If you find some deals out there on anything but especially your favorite oil, stock up if you can. National inflation rates for last 5 years. The increases we have been seeing all over were based on the 2021 numbers, when the market adjusts to the year 2022 numbers you can expect similar price increases. I wonder how many companies will shut their doors, especially redline. Is that option being priced out of the market? Last year redline 145 a case, now 176, if increases continue soon 206 per case, dorothy is going byby.

20181.9%
20192.3%
20201.4%
20217.0%
20226.5%
 

Burla

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I was slumming today BITOG, yes I am ashamed of myself, not posting just reading. But look at the molekule's opinion why you see copper wear with redline... I will post his quote in full, I'm not sure what more you want for tbn, I would say add more mag, but whatever. Seams like ca levels are high to me. His opinion here..

3) Excellent engine cleanliness, even compared to other synthetic lubes. You can see this in the oil analysis results, if you know what to look for.

I think the cleanliness AND the soft metals issue are one and the same. The DD levels are low for a synthetic oil and I believe it's because of the high ester content in RL, which make very good scavengers. I do not think the esters are attacking any soft metals, just cleaning the surfaces of bearings, due to their high polar affinity to metals. I do agree that RL's tbn and tbn retention could be better given the price. I think their calcium levels need to be about 1.5 times more than current levels.
 

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