Do you use anti seize or impact drill on your lug nuts

So what do you guys do for lugs? Ever since we had a case where a family left a tire shop and a tire came off and killed a kid back in the late 80's, I have tried to do my own work that I can at the tire. A few times I let the shop do this such as when I had them replace an axle, but I rotate my own tires even though it is "free" where I get my tires. I do and have done both without issue to this point, but that doesnt mean this is the smart thing to do. So I am looking for some collective knowledge on this issue. I don't feel strongly about my procedure which is the reason for the poll. Do you folks do either or both or none of this?

Is it dangerous to not use anti sieze in some locations such as salt belt? Have you seen any "official" info that anti seize is ok on lugs, or that it isnt ok.? It appears loctite doesnt spell it out either way from what I have seen, yes they say nuts but not specifically lug nuts.

If you do use anti seize on lug nuts what type?

Discuss...

I go straight home from the tire store and re-torque my wheels to proper specs by hand. I never trust the techs at any store. That way I know it's right. This is something good about OCD.

BIG O, in the town I grew up in was known for tires coming off, and it became a habit that I keep going.

Grew up in a salt state. When I have the wheels off at home i clean the studs and put a small amount of C5A on to prevent any galling.

I don't use anti-seize. I was always under the impression the using anti-seize or any other lubricant can throw off the torque numbers. I'll use an impact, and the shop I go to always uses a torque wrench on everything.

Thats why they invented the 1/2 Milwaukee impact. full send the lug nuts at #3 setting

Anti-seize has no business on lug nuts.

Same here. Even though tire rotation is free after purchase of the tires at my shop I do the rotation. Gives me the opportunity to check tire wear or damage. Gives me the opportunity to inspect brakes and all the areas involved. No antiseize because it changes torque specs.

DILLIGAF said:

Thats why they invented the 1/2 Milwaukee impact. full send the lug nuts at #3 setting

Anti-seize has no business on lug nuts.

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Same, except I grabbed a torque stick for the lugs and then hand check them after.

Most vehicles today use acorn (tappered) style lug nuts and wheels which helps center the wheels onto the hub. It doesn't matter what you use, if you tighten the wheels incorrectly you run the risk of damage or catastrophic failure. I've been a mechanic for 30+ years and I never had any problems tightening lug nuts. The key is to make sure the hub and wheel is free of rust and or corrosion which will prevent the wheel from sitting on the hub correctly. How you actually tighten the nuts is important too. You can't just jam the nuts on tight and expect the wheel to be seated. In a star pattern I run each lug nut up snug giving the wheel the opportunity to center itself then again in a star pattern I'll torque accordingly. I only use anti-seize on the studs if they are rusted. If they aren't rusted I may use a little WD40 on the studs. I cringe when I hear someone tightening lug nuts that don't know what they are doing

i have used anti seize for probably 30 years.. i don't gob it on i use a thin layer and run the nut up and back off to spread it out. I use my impact to run the nuts up to just snug, then hit them with a torque wrench and if they torque down instantly i back that nut off and torque it down.. Have never had a wheel issue... Even if you do not use anti seize it is recommended to use 1 drop of oil on the threads to torque down.

Only time I ever used anti seize on lug nuts was a very small amount on the cone where it rubbed the wheel because they were a mag wheel and the surface was starting to gull up. Aside from that I always zip wheels on with an impact then go over them with a torque wrench.

I have put anti seize on my lug nuts once roughly a year ago. I hadn't taken the tires off in a hot minute and I had one of the wheel hubs go bad, ended up breaking 3 lug nuts in half where there is a large lip and cannot put a socket over them. Had to unbolt the hub with the wheel on and take the torch and cut them out from the back side of the hub to get the wheel off. I only put a little bit of anti seize on the studs and its still there as of 2 weeks ago when I changed the front pads... I use the impact on them too cause .

DILLIGAF said:

Thats why they invented the 1/2 Milwaukee impact. full send the lug nuts at #3 setting

Anti-seize has no business on lug nuts.

Click to expand...

Right, my impact paid for itself just on how much it saved my arms on changing tires. My wife had an issue with a disgruntled customer and I have to change her tires many times last year, so glad for a 20v 1/2 impact. I an envious you have a setting, I need to look into that, maybe just ad a torq bit between the drill and lug?

Does anyone know of a torque bit for 1/2 inch impact so you don't over torque lugs?

I thought my 1/2 Milwaukee was the best purchase ever until I got the M12 3/8 Milwaukee rachet. Now im getting the M12 1/4 those things save your hands even more.

I have seen some video where 12v dewalt out perform the dewalt 20v, which totally disappoints me as I chose that platform. The ratchet was one of them.

I have always used a very very small amount of anti seize on my lug nut studs !
Once i have removed the lug nuts and wheels i wipe off the studs inspect for damage then wipe off face of wheel (Rim) inspect for damage ! at this point i will do what ever i was going to do Ie repairs or inspection! then put a very very small amount of anti seize on face of rotor where rim sits on rim them install wheel (rim) and lug nuts run them in with a impact gun then hand tighten by hand then torque by hand with a torque wrench to spec ! Then after 30 to 50 miles or 50 to 80 Km retorque the wheels ! as recommended and for safety!!!!!

I use my Milwaukee m12 1/2” drive impact to remove the lug nuts. Every once in a while I get one or 2 it can’t break free but it’s the small impact gun. I set it to the auto sense function which will only drive the nut until it feels resistance and automatically stops, which is great for reinstalling the lug nuts quickly. Then I use a torque wrench to tighten them. I think our trucks are 128ft lb? My wife’s car was a breeze with the m12. Never had a lug nut it couldn’t pull.

Also for anyone reading this thread you cannot use torque sticks on a battery impact gun. Well you can but they do not work. Torque sticks were designed for pneumatic impact guns. The impact rate is too high on battery impacts and will not allow the torque stick to do its job properly. It will allow you to over torque the lug nuts. I looked into this a while ago. Almost bought a pneumatic torque gun just because of that but the 1/2” torque wrench will always be more reliable than a torque stick.

You forgot about the hub register Mike,lol. I use anti-seize on the hub registers as i've fought rims off the register more times then not.I also put a thin smear on the studs once a year,as my tires are in the habit of being taken on and off on a weekly basis at the track,and they have a habit of galling the threads with-out it,when you spin the nuts on and off weekly. I've used my cordless impact enough over the years,i come pretty close to 130 lb-ft with it.

Yeah, but that isnt controversial is it? Using it on hub that is. I posted this because there is an argument both ways, that is just proper maintenance the hubs.

Burla said:

Yeah, but that isnt controversial is it? Using it on hub that is. I posted this because there is an argument both ways, that is just proper maintenance the hubs.

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true but I also stated that i do use anti seize on my lug nuts as well ! that is what you were asking correct !? i just expanded on how and what i do that's all

Jim BB said:

true but I also stated that i do use anti seize on my lug nuts as well ! that is what you were asking correct !? i just expanded on how and what i do that's all

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sorry man, I was talking to rick, aka wildone

You guys must mostly be Younger, Healthier or more Flexible.
Got a 1/2 in plug in electric Impact ,from the early to mid 70's, but seriously doubt I could handle, all, it can do, anymore.
Like my Big 1/2, electric plug in, Drill, Hate it when that thing bears down.
Even with the shoulder brace and extra arm handle, thing like to rip your body apart.


I use my trusty, XL long, torque wrench, that barely fits in my tool box drawer.
Had an older one, that I stole, from my Dad, back in the 70's, but it grew legs and walked away.
Hope it is Happy, now.
I do miss it so.


No anti seize. If Lugs looked like they need, it, they get replaced.
But, I live in the Rust Belt and am never, ever again, going to fight with rusty ANYTHING, ever again.

Cutting torches are Gods Gift to Man.
Cut back to the damn frame, if I must.
Buy a new car, if I must.


My days of busting rusted, are done and gone.
Give it a good effort, then the Heat goes on.

If the part still refuses to come off, it needs cut out, like a Cancer.
OR
Replaced, like an Ex--Wife.
Costly but worth it, in the long run.


FWIW, thank you all for informing about Electric Ratchets.
How, in the World, did I never think of picking them up?
Ratchets are air driven.
Talk about stuck in ones ways.


but Imma gonna hit Lowes, today , for couple electric ratchets.
The neighbor Kids, Bike Repairs, are getting electrified, this year.
About all I actually work on now.

Good Thread!!





EDIT:
Wonder if my Dad misses that old Torgue wrench, too?
I'd ask him but then he just stopped accusing me of stealing it, a decade or so ago.

OMFG!
That's about when it grew legs!

I'm looking over HIS garage.
What are the Odds I get to steal it, again?



EDIT #2:

True Cycle of Life :
Stealing tools , from your Dad.