Do you use anti seize or impact drill on your lug nuts

I've never used anti-seize on lug nuts. I do use it on the hub when putting on aluminum wheels since that is where the corrosion occurs. I also hand tighten 2 lug nuts to make sure the wheel is properly centered before running them all up with an impact wrench in a cris-cross pattern. I've never had one come lose.

If I lived in the salt belt, I would definitely use anti-seize on the lugs and the back of the wheel where it meets the rotor. I have friends that live in Maple Syrup country that swear by that and have sent me pictures of how rusted wheels can get to brake rotors.

But since I'm in Ga, we don't have to worry about all that. I put nothing on the lugs or back of the wheels (I'll clean them with a scotch brite pad every so often) and use a impact gun on and off, then go back behind with a torque wrench.

Burla said:

So what do you guys do for lugs? Ever since we had a case where a family left a tire shop and a tire came off and killed a kid back in the late 80's, I have tried to do my own work that I can at the tire. A few times I let the shop do this such as when I had them replace an axle, but I rotate my own tires even though it is "free" where I get my tires. I do and have done both without issue to this point, but that doesnt mean this is the smart thing to do. So I am looking for some collective knowledge on this issue. I don't feel strongly about my procedure which is the reason for the poll. Do you folks do either or both or none of this?

Is it dangerous to not use anti sieze in some locations such as salt belt? Have you seen any "official" info that anti seize is ok on lugs, or that it isnt ok.? It appears loctite doesnt spell it out either way from what I have seen, yes they say nuts but not specifically lug nuts.

If you do use anti seize on lug nuts what type?

Discuss...

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Hello

Burla said:

So what do you guys do for lugs? Ever since we had a case where a family left a tire shop and a tire came off and killed a kid back in the late 80's, I have tried to do my own work that I can at the tire. A few times I let the shop do this such as when I had them replace an axle, but I rotate my own tires even though it is "free" where I get my tires. I do and have done both without issue to this point, but that doesnt mean this is the smart thing to do. So I am looking for some collective knowledge on this issue. I don't feel strongly about my procedure which is the reason for the poll. Do you folks do either or both or none of this?

Is it dangerous to not use anti sieze in some locations such as salt belt? Have you seen any "official" info that anti seize is ok on lugs, or that it isnt ok.? It appears loctite doesnt spell it out either way from what I have seen, yes they say nuts but not specifically lug nuts.

If you do use anti seize on lug nuts what type?

Discuss...

Click to expand...

Hello to all military veterans and active members thank you for your service keep safe.
Now to answer your questions?
1- as far as using Anti seize on your wheel studs not a good idea. Because if you have any loose wheel nuts you will never know until it’s too late, I have been a heavy truck mechanic for over 35yrs and was told that you should never put anything on your wheel studs be there will be no sign of a loose wheel nut, ever notice that you see rust stains on wheel of trucks, that’s a sign of it has or was loose wheel nuts,
As far as using a drill? I use a 1/2 drive impact tool to remove the wheel nuts on my Ram.

I use a little Anti-seize on the wheel stud threads, keeping it off the surface where the lug meets the rim. I also use it on the hub face otherwise the wheels will corrode onto the hub making it a bear to get them off. If I didn't live in an area with salt all winter there would be no need.

I never use an impact. I use a T-bar tire iron for removal and to put them back on snug and then torque them down to spec in a star pattern.

lube DOES not change Torque, IF the torque spec. says to lube!!! As that spec. states to use lube and what kind. For example some HEADBOLTS require lube - engine oil! Read the Spec. do what is directed. "salt" can not get in the threads after being put on! Usually they do not want to come off due to to tight in first place, and added to that all the heat and cool cycles put on them going down the road-brakes create head don't ya know! I believe that some brands of "anti Seize" even say on the container "do not use on lug nuts! So of the theory's are vibration can loosen the nuts (hence left hand threads). "I" would NEVER use anti-seize on lug nuts!!! But I do was an "impact wrench ( air or electric) on them - TO TAKE OFF! Wheel/Tire assembly put on no load - off the ground. Snugged up ( in a sequence - this will be in the "SERVICE MANUAL" of course that you all have!- Then when that is done all wheels can be but on the ground and finish torqueing - two more steps- to proper torque. Mistakes can be made doing anything else! Mistakes can even be made by following the rules, that is why rules can change. But the odds are ALWAYS in your favor by following the engineers specs.

"torque sticks" are a great idea but the have a useful life expectancy. I am pretty sure it is in their information. Even torque wrenches have one-seven years! But they can be recalibrated!! The worst part of the "Wheel Nuts" - that' s how they are sometimes listed- is the stupid cosmetic chrome cap that gets deformed using an impact on or off. Napa and others? have solid style available. NAPA lists them as a "problem solving" part number. NO TIN CAPS! but chrome quality? Some come in powder coated black.

IT's Not the Name on the Building but the NAME of the person doing the worK!!!!

I change a tire like the one pictured once for the City of Albany NY's - what I would call a grader- it was three pieces and two o-rings - which made it tubeless!

Well I have read 11 pages. The only one that is right- as far as "I" am concerned is MYSELF. And I am sure that is the same person that everyone else here trusts!!!!! am signing out for a bit time to go Grocery shopping!

As a retired industrial mechanic.
Never lubricate your threads without understanding lubricated bold thread torque specs.

As a retired industrial mechanic. Never lubricate your threads without understanding lubricated bold thread torque specs.

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That's funny. I don't disagree, but ...what percentage of owners do that?

Not enough choices for me. Ive never used anti seize but would use an impact if i had one. So WHEN ive done brakes or rotated myself which is rare since its free at Discount tire, ive just used a socket and rachet or wheel lug wrench. Tire shops use impact and im ok with it.

Ive also never torqued them and dont even know if Discount does. I just make them nice and snug, and dont crank on them. Never had a problem in 40 years.

So is it this simple? Lug thread size determines Torque rating.

I don't use anti-sieze on lug nuts. I live in the rust belt but don't seem to get much corrosion build up on this trucks studs. I drive the truck 25K miles a year and rotate the tires several times. Doesn't give the nuts enough time to get welded to the studs.
I use impact gun to remove lugnuts, and to install them with a light touch. Then I torque to spec.

I used to work at the AAA Auto Club national office, and was responsible for the annual towing and service manual and the lockout service manual. I also did training for towing and road service onsite at many of the clubs. The main problem we found in the salt belt was that the lugnut holes in the spare wheel would get rusted, sometimes heavily, and wheels would loosen up and come off even when they were properly tightened and torqued. We had the road service techs brush the rusty lug holes and center hole with a steel brush and advised the members to have the wheels checked for tightness or do it themselves after about ten miles. I never found any research about anti-sieze. Proper torque is always important to prevent the rotors from pulsation. I have been a mechanic since 1964.

This is a real old tip,i learned probably 45 years ago,if you don't like using anti-seize on your lugnuts,and that's to use "Peanut Buttar" on them instead,yes i said Peanut Buttar,lol

Got my torque sticks today (amazon), need a good inch pound set sometime to complete the set. I am not giving up my impact gun, these will make my routine better. When I find my ft pd wrench this summer I can test how accurate the sticks are.

Burla said:

Got my torque sticks today (amazon), need a good inch pound set sometime to complete the set. I am not giving up my impact gun, these will make my routine better. When I find my ft pd wrench this summer I can test how accurate the sticks are.

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There are quite a few YouTube videos about torque sticks. Different impact wrenches will yield different torque results. As I stated before I use one about 10 ft lbs lower than needed then follow with a torque wrench when tires are back on the ground. I wouldn't just use the torque sticks unless you don't have a torque wrench available.

Anti seize changes the torque spec of the lug nuts. You will either break the stud or stretch them.