Oil Filter Thread

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DParenti547

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Just put a RP 20-820 on my 2015 1500 SLT 4x4. Fit perfectly and had no trouble getting it in there with it filled to the top with oil. I’m going with Amsoil SS 5w-20. The Amsoil rep really recommended against the 5w-30.‍♂️ I’ll report back and let you guys know if this helps my 2-3 second dry start lifter clacking. I’ve been running the M1-113A filter with M1 EP 5w-20. I get the dry start randomly it seems, but it’s definitely less often right after an oil change. I only go 2500-3000 miles OCI typically, but I’ll do an analysis at about 5 with this Amsoil if it happens to stay quiet now. Fingers crossed. If it doesn’t stay quiet, I’ll try the 5w-30 next time.
 

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Just put a RP 20-820 on my 2015 1500 SLT 4x4. Fit perfectly and had no trouble getting it in there with it filled to the top with oil. I’m going with Amsoil SS 5w-20. The Amsoil rep really recommended against the 5w-30.‍♂️ I’ll report back and let you guys know if this helps my 2-3 second dry start lifter clacking. I’ve been running the M1-113A filter with M1 EP 5w-20. I get the dry start randomly it seems, but it’s definitely less often right after an oil change. I only go 2500-3000 miles OCI typically, but I’ll do an analysis at about 5 with this Amsoil if it happens to stay quiet now. Fingers crossed. If it doesn’t stay quiet, I’ll try the 5w-30 next time.

Remember you can pre-lube the engine a number of ways: (1) buy a tuner, (2) pull the ignition fuse, (3) hold gas pedal all the way to floor prior to cranking.

I use method (3) after engine has sat a while.
 

DParenti547

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I usually hold the gas pedal and let it crank over when it’s cold outside (below freezing). My main concern is that I don’t want to kill the starter while doing it regularly. I mean, I’d rather replace the starter than the engine, but if I can avoid killing the starter, that’d be great too. Can you (or anybody else) inform me of the downsides of letting it crank over like that? Is the starter really a concern? I usually let it get going until I see 5-10psi before let it start up, but that usually takes 2 full cycles first.
 

Jason LeMar 62675

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Trying to search but I am not getting any results - did I read on here that the M1-212A is the longer version of the M1-113A? Same threads, seal, and bypass PSI? Thanks to all who reply.
 
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Burla

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I dont know, but if you find a fitament chart for m1 filters just look up 2010 ram 5.7 and that will be the larger filter.

Hmmm, this is what the mightly amazon says.

Mobil 1 M1-210A​


✓ This fits

2010 Dodge Ram 1500
 
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And M1-212A


! This does not fit

2010 Dodge Ram 1500

never mind I see you dont have the 5.7, it is more helpful if you put the engine in the post. Just try amazon fitament.
 

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I usually hold the gas pedal and let it crank over when it’s cold outside (below freezing). My main concern is that I don’t want to kill the starter while doing it regularly. I mean, I’d rather replace the starter than the engine, but if I can avoid killing the starter, that’d be great too. Can you (or anybody else) inform me of the downsides of letting it crank over like that? Is the starter really a concern? I usually let it get going until I see 5-10psi before let it start up, but that usually takes 2 full cycles first.

Industry standard was 20 seconds crank, 20 seconds rest.. repeat up to 2 minutes. That's what we used @ Cummins / Onan. Never fried a (new) starter motor I was aware of. As Tech Leader I would have heard about it. Batteries were always the problem - not starter motors.

I don't see a problem with it. A couple or three idle cranks @ 200 rpm is better than dry @ 1600 rpm upon start. Which is really fast on fly by wire engines.
 

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Love it. I appreciate the info on that. Batteries I don’t mind abusing in the least!!
 

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I was at my local Wal-Mart again yesterday and took some photos of the FRAM Ultra XG2 (date code A30681) and the new FRAM "Endurance" FE2 (date code 23019Y) for sake of the collective hive mind. A few differences of note:

1) Canister Dimensions — The FE2 weighed slightly more than the XG2 despite measuring about 1/4" shorter overall.

2) Grip Overmolding — The FE2 has a grip overmolding covering the entire surface of the filter, rather than simply the bottom third as is typical. That said, the overmolding texture has also changed, and not for the better. The FE2 I was looking at nearly dropped out of my hand due just to the weight of the filter while I was examining it. The grip of the old overmolding was far better, so this is a clear step back in my book and a major reason why I would actually stick with the XG2 unless the FE2 is proven radically better in other areas.

3) Base Plate Design — The FE2 has six slightly larger holes in the base plate, compared to the XG2's eight slightly smaller holes. Gasket appeared the same on both filters.

4) Center Tube / Filter Media — The XG2 filter with a manufacture date of 03/09/23 still had the pink/purple microglass wire-backed media. The FE2's center tube is a perforated design advertised as a high-flow style, but it conveniently eliminates the ability to see the filter media, although in the reflection of the camera flash I do believe I saw wire mesh through some of the slits. Some of the perforations were crimped nearly or fully shut in the filter I examined, which looks like a possibility for manufacturing defects to impact performance.

5) Pricing — The FRAM Ultra XG2 was priced at $8.97 vs. the FRAM Synthetic Endurance FE2, which was $12.97.

Final Thoughts
Given the FE2's far less desirable grip overmolding and higher price point, I plan on sticking with the Fram Ultra XG2 as long as they are still being produced with the original synthetic media with wire mesh backing, as it appears they currently are.

For sake of reference, I did open a Fram Ultra XG3614 while in-store, and that filter's media was completely different from the XG2 — brown/yellow paper media with no wire mesh backing. I am still unclear why the XG2 hasn't been "converted" to the new dual-blend media without any wire mesh backing as was first mentioned a year or two ago.

I purchased a FRAM FE2 a couple of months ago from Walmart and cut it open for my personal viewing, however in comparison to an Royal Purple 20-820, they are similar with an exception of the base plates ... the RP inlet holes are larger and more than the FRAM FE2 ...
 

U&A

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Just put a RP 20-820 on my 2015 1500 SLT 4x4. Fit perfectly and had no trouble getting it in there with it filled to the top with oil. I’m going with Amsoil SS 5w-20. The Amsoil rep really recommended against the 5w-30.‍♂️ I’ll report back and let you guys know if this helps my 2-3 second dry start lifter clacking. I’ve been running the M1-113A filter with M1 EP 5w-20. I get the dry start randomly it seems, but it’s definitely less often right after an oil change. I only go 2500-3000 miles OCI typically, but I’ll do an analysis at about 5 with this Amsoil if it happens to stay quiet now. Fingers crossed. If it doesn’t stay quiet, I’ll try the 5w-30 next time.
If you get valve train noise for a couple seconds (“dry start” as you said) run another 1/2 quart of oil.

It wont hurt the truck and it might quit possibly completely stop that problem (like it did for me and others) or make it much less frequent.

And remember, if you run a bigger filter it’s gonna take more oil anyways to fill it up the increased space in the system.

I run 7.5quarts if i run the stock sized filter and 7.75 quarts with the 20-820 sized filters
 
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DParenti547

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That actually doesn’t make a difference as far as I can tell. I always run my oil capacity up to the top of the “safe” markings on the dipstick. No higher, but as much as I can get in there without worrying the oil is being aerated. Seems to be nice and quiet so far with the Amsoil SS and RP 20-820. Only a few miles though…
 

U&A

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That actually doesn’t make a difference as far as I can tell. I always run my oil capacity up to the top of the “safe” markings on the dipstick. No higher, but as much as I can get in there without worrying the oil is being aerated. Seems to be nice and quiet so far with the Amsoil SS and RP 20-820. Only a few miles though…
Gotcha

See….im not trying to give bad info. It may not make sense to ya but it worked. For multiple people including me.

If your worried about air bubbles in your oil when running more oil pull the dipstick when it is warmed up. You will see bubbles in the oil on the dipstick if it’s happening. Plenty of guys run a full 8 quarts in the 5.7 without causing bubbles/air in the oil.

Remember the dip stick is a reference. Every engine actually has a slightly different capacity.
 
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Burla

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I have ran 8 quarts in my 7 quart sump from day one 2010, and as said by kyle and corey who started this idea, being over 1/2 quart has been proven to help against tick, which is why this forum is so apt to try new things because tick is the scourge many of us are facing. One of the most common reasons for tick in any engine = low oil.
 

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I have ran 8 quarts in my 7 quart sump from day one 2010, and as said by kyle and corey who started this idea, being over 1/2 quart has been proven to help against tick, which is why this forum is so apt to try new things because tick is the scourge many of us are facing. One of the most common reasons for tick in any engine = low oil.

I hadn't seen this from far back. The engineer in me wonders why. I don't want to antagonize anybody that's already been through all this, though. Maybe the pickup tube entrance isn't low enough for more extreme road grades?
 
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Burla

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I hadn't seen this from far back. The engineer in me wonders why. I don't want to antagonize anybody that's already been through all this, though. Maybe the pickup tube entrance isn't low enough for more extreme road grades?
It is a discussion and a more then fair question. As for low oil cause tick, use google every mechanic website says that. But, this wasnt my strategy it developed between corey and kyle, so this was their area and had a couple other guys verify as well. I to wonder to the why.
 

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I hadn't seen this from far back. The engineer in me wonders why. I don't want to antagonize anybody that's already been through all this, though. Maybe the pickup tube entrance isn't low enough for more extreme road grades?
Thats all I could figure but i do not have a solid answer as to why it actually works. That exact reason is all we could figure.

But I tested it personally. I originally ran 7q with the stock filter. Always had periodic startup noise from the valve train from day one. Id say 40% of the time i did cold start ups OR if i started the truck and let it run long enough to move it in the driveway, and then shut it off. Then go to start it again (even just minute later) it would clatter like an SOB then too.


No idea why but we had the idea to try running a higher level because all the oil brands and viscosities we tried did not make it go away. Going from 7q to 7.5+ and it was gone.

Seemed odd so after 2 OCI of running it at 7.5+q i tried 7q again and the noise instantly came back.

Added 2/3 of a quart and it was gone again.

Some how im thinking the top end looses prime and this may prevent it. And all we could think of was the pickup tube was to short. Could be the wrong reason. Dont know

But I do know it fixed my problem and has now for years since

Hope this help’s someone200.gif
 

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My biggest concern as to why this works is ……if it looses prime when parked…..(parked the pan should be the fullest it can be)

Then it MUST …..MUST! be loosing prime when running as the system is trying to continually be full of oil so the pan therefore has an even lower level.
 

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Here is some pics of the three oil filters(In order: FRAM XG2/Royal Purple 20-820/FRAM Endurance FE2)that I cut open for taking a gander at the insides for comparison.

The base plates on all three are hefty. The RP20-820 and FRAM Endurance FE2 base plates are about the same with the exception being the RP 20-820 has two more inlets than the FRAM Endurance FE2 where the FRAM XG2 has the same amount of inlets as the RP 20-820, but smaller.
 

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