2013 5.7 2x4 238,000miles p0303 on Hard Acceleration

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jedslack

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I just bought this truck from my Father-in-law. It has impeccable maintenance records. I was merging onto the highway and noticed the check engine light flash. I took it to O'reily and the code read p0303. This was the only stored code. I was running 87 octane and had half a tank left. I topped off with premium and dropped two full cans of seafom into the gas tank. Do you guys think I should go ahead and pop the valve cover and check the lifters? I mean, even if the lifters are bad, with 240k on the engine won't I be looking at a full rebuild? Is there any chance that this was just bad gas? What should my next steps be? I've only had the truck for 2 weeks and I absolutely love it...loved it? Thank you for your time
 

Treburkulosis

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Have the coil packs been replaced? I opted out on mine, but the next tune up, I will be replacing them. Did the seafoam fix it or did the light stay on?
 
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jedslack

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I am not sure about the coil packs, I am waiting on the service records to get emailed to me from the dealership. The light never STAYED on, it only blinked and then sent the truck into what I believe was some sort of limp mode. I made it home, but the truck ran very rough and with reduced power for about a mile. I don't really know if the seafoam did any good or not. Its running fine now, but I am concerned about the next hard acceleration.
 

Burla

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Don't know if this is your issue, for sure it is possible, nearly all cam lobs worn to nub show up under load first. And the fact it is not a general mis fire but specific, it is cylinder 3 that missed. So change coil pack 3 and any other one, see if code travels, plugs too. Rule out coils or plugs.

dyi cam thread
 
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jedslack

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So you think itd be okay doing just the cam and lifters with 240k mikes on the block?
 

Burla

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So you think itd be okay doing just the cam and lifters with 240k mikes on the block?
Dealers use the oil control valve to decide that, if there is metal in the block. However, considering the cost difference, it might be worth it to get a rebuild engine with full warranty. Maybe price both options in your locale to decide. If it were me, I'd get a rebuild to have new pistons and crank and bearings the whole shabang. You still need to verify the cam imo, it is possible it is something else, at least 10% of the time it could be an injector or something.
 

jws123

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So you think itd be okay doing just the cam and lifters with 240k mikes on the block?
Check the usual stuff first if it does turn out to be a cam with those kind of miles I wouldnt fix it plenty of wrecks out there with good motors.
 

CunningStunt

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Pop the hood. Swap cylinder 3 and 1 coil packs. If misfire stays on cylinder 3 then swap cylinder 1 and 3 injectors. If #3 misfire persists, its gonna be cam and lifters. If the truck was not beat by your father in law, it's almost certainly worth rebuilding the top end. If it was used to tow a lot or as a work truck, maybe consider a full rebuild.
 

crackerjack1957

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So you think itd be okay doing just the cam and lifters with 240k mikes on the block?
If it is cam & lifters with that many miles a complete rebuild would be in order............or another engine.
 
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jedslack

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Thanks guys. The truck doesn't even have a tow hitch on it. It has been babied. I think Im looking at a rebuild.
 

CunningStunt

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Thanks guys. The truck doesn't even have a tow hitch on it. It has been babied. I think Im looking at a rebuild.
Lookup the cam bible thread. It's intimidating at first but can save you tons of $$. Create a thread and post your progress, challenges, questions, and this forum will get you through it.
 

Sillygoose

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is there ever a time when a cam lobe is chewed that metal doesn't end up in the oil control valve?
seems like a dumb way to determine if rebuildable or not, but granted, it is the dealership method and understandable from a liability aspect.
there was plenty of metal in mine and it's been going fine after a rebuild and a few oil changes to flush it out, knock on wood.
 

yogibear18

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you could swap out ignition coil three to another one cylinder. See if the misfire occurs there then you know maybe it’s a ignition coil, inspect the plug carefully as well
 

Burla

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is there ever a time when a cam lobe is chewed that metal doesn't end up in the oil control valve?
seems like a dumb way to determine if rebuildable or not, but granted, it is the dealership method and understandable from a liability aspect.
there was plenty of metal in mine and it's been going fine after a rebuild and a few oil changes to flush it out, knock on wood.
I'm sure dealerships would rather replace engines, more money and less work then cracking an engine open, plus next to zero risk of metal causing an issue. More money, less work, less risk, so yeah there is more to that gauge then meets the eye. They are looking for an excuse to replace over repair.
 
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jedslack

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Update:
I had the misfire again. This time the P0303 could went from "pending" to "stored" and the check engine light stayed on. I erased the code, swapped coil 1 and 3, and I changed coil 3 spark plugs. Plugs were very worn, which got my hopes up. I was able to replicate the misfire upon hard acceleration immediately following letting off the gas when accelerating in first gear to 5k rpm. Same code - p0303. Last thing to check is injectors?
 

MichaelCB

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I have a 2018 1500 5.7 with 98,000 miles. I started hearing the ticking and when passing a car my check engine light came on. Fast forward, a lifter roller denigrated. I had all lifters and a torched and scared cam shaft replaced. The issue is the oil pump. Since dodge changed the angle of the cylinders the pump cannot handle the oil at low RPM's, like idle. Long periods of idle will damage the cam and lifters. I still have the truck but will get rid of it soon. I am done.
 

troy325

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I just bought this truck from my Father-in-law. It has impeccable maintenance records. I was merging onto the highway and noticed the check engine light flash. I took it to O'reily and the code read p0303. This was the only stored code. I was running 87 octane and had half a tank left. I topped off with premium and dropped two full cans of seafom into the gas tank. Do you guys think I should go ahead and pop the valve cover and check the lifters? I mean, even if the lifters are bad, with 240k on the engine won't I be looking at a full rebuild? Is there any chance that this was just bad gas? What should my next steps be? I've only had the truck for 2 weeks and I absolutely love it...loved it? Thank you for your time
Exact same thing happened to me. It’s a coil pack !!! You can just change that one coil pack and it’s good
 
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jedslack

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Exact same thing happened to me. It’s a coil pack !!! You can just change that one coil pack and it’s good
I swapped out the #3 and #1 coils. They didn't look great, and I actually plan on replacing them all eventually. Even after switching the coils, I still got the misifire on the same #3 cylinder. I think I am looking at pulling the valve cover next. I might try and swap injectors, but I havent found anyone that this has actually fixed their misfire under hard acceleration.
 

Hardracer

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I swapped out the #3 and #1 coils. They didn't look great, and I actually plan on replacing them all eventually. Even after switching the coils, I still got the misifire on the same #3 cylinder. I think I am looking at pulling the valve cover next. I might try and swap injectors, but I havent found anyone that this has actually fixed their misfire under hard acceleration.
Keep us posted on the outcome.
 

demonram

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I am not sure about the coil packs, I am waiting on the service records to get emailed to me from the dealership. The light never STAYED on, it only blinked and then sent the truck into what I believe was some sort of limp mode. I made it home, but the truck ran very rough and with reduced power for about a mile. I don't really know if the seafoam did any good or not. Its running fine now, but I am concerned about the next hard acceleration.
Yeah, hard acceleration will tell the tale. When my cam went, I thought it needed a tune-up and changed the spark plugs and the air sensor in the air intake tube. That didn't fix it so I bought a coil pack and replaced the one on #3 cylinder, to no avail. Under hard acceleration, it would start skipping, the check engine light would come on, and it would do this for about a mile or two, then smooth out. It eventually got to where it would do it just under normal driving. My money would be on the lifter/cam issue.
 
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