SCREWED OVER!! Need Rear Differential!! Cannot find one anywhere.

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2003F350

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My suggestion, find another shop and get a second opinion. I get the truck needing a brake job, but all 4 calipers?
Depending on where you live, it's not that uncommon to end up replacing all 4 calipers. I just had to on my '17, not because the calipers were bad but because the slide pins were stuck. Rusted in place and could not be moved. Could order the brackets/pins for around $120/each and wait a week for them to come in, or buy all new calipers at around $140/each and have them that day.
 

crazy jerry

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get a second opinion from another shop that has a clue. how could you possibly need 4 calipers. probly dont even need one.

this is why i do all my own repairs.

the amount of incompetance with some shops will blow your mind.

perhaps the truck was severly neglected and needs a few new parts. next time look it over closer before dropping the cash
 

Dean2

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Depending on where you live, it's not that uncommon to end up replacing all 4 calipers. I just had to on my '17, not because the calipers were bad but because the slide pins were stuck. Rusted in place and could not be moved. Could order the brackets/pins for around $120/each and wait a week for them to come in, or buy all new calipers at around $140/each and have them that day.
It is possible but highly unlikely. I have lived in the high salt areas of Alberta for 50 years. Done two calipers in my life on a raft of vehicles that would have total miles driven by me easily exceeding 2 million miles. I ran a whole lot of my vehicles to 150-200,000 miles with nothing more than standard maintenance. I have never done a motor, transmission or anything major, and that covers Ford, Chev, Dodge, Toyota, Honda, Lexus, Mercedes and a list of others too long to list.

I used to do all my own repairs so pretty familiar with vehicles. At my age, doing that work is no longer interesting so I spent the time to find an excellent independent and a really good dealership. Between incompetence and outright scams at so many shops these days, I trust nothing any of them say until I have verified that they speak the truth.

I hope the OP got the removed calipers back to verify they were in fact in need of replacement, I know I would have insisted on seeing them BEFORE I authorised 4 to be replaced at a shop I didn't use before.

The fact this shop wants to replace the entire rear axle due to a possibly broken carrier, rather than just rebuild the existing one, tells me they are at minimum incompetent.
 

Hootbro

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The fact this shop wants to replace the entire rear axle due to a possibly broken carrier, rather than just rebuild the existing one, tells me they are at minimum incompetent.
Rebuilding front/rear ends is specialty work like transmission and engine rebuilds. Most shops are going to say replace the whole assembly. It is not a matter their incompetent, they just run their business model the way that works for them.
 

Dean2

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Rebuilding front/rear ends is specialty work like transmission and engine rebuilds. Most shops are going to say replace the whole assembly. It is not a matter their incompetent, they just run their business model the way that works for them.
I disagree. A competent shop would say, we don't rebuild the rear ends our selves. We can send it out and have the work done or you can take it to X place. Charging a client $4 grand for a whole new rear axle, rather than getting the existing one rebuilt for $500 is not just "running their business model the way that works best for them". That is hosing a client and hoping they don't know any better.

On top of that, like I said above, I am not in the least bit convinced there is in fact anything wrong with the differential, carrier or gears and recommended he get a second option form a shop that specialises in rear ends.
 
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Tominator223

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Did you check summit for a spicer carrier? The diff housing would have to be really f’d up not to rebuild. Some place has the parts to rebuild it. Go race parts if you have to & keep same gearing.
 

Abel Components

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I'm pretty sure that is normal for the carrier. I can find pictures online just like it. I also thought the same thing about mine when changing fluid but the cuts are machined and there is no metal in the diff out on the magnet. Something grinding like that would make a heck of a noise.
As stated above, that is completely normal appearance for the rear carrier. You don't need to replace the rear diff carrier or housing. If you have a clunk coming from the rear end, first check for loose pinion bearings, then check the backlash of the ring and pinion gears. Backlash is completely adjustable without disassembly on these trucks. The carrier bearings have spanner nuts to adjust backlash. If you've never owned a 4X4 truck before, you need to know that there's gear lash in the trans, T-case and diffs. Under the right circumstances (transitioning from drive to reverse) you're going to hear all that gear lash change directions and it might make a clunk sound. OP, calm down, take a deep breath and get a second opinion from a reputable drivetrain specialist in your area. Try to enjoy your new-to-you truck, it's the most capable truck you'll ever own : )
 

Tominator223

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I had similar issues with my 04. Found the guys that build & rebuild everybody’s drag cars . Had them rebuild my rear diff. Got 200k out it. That was about 10yrs ago & it cost me $1100.00
 

Hootbro

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Charging a client $4 grand for a whole new rear axle, rather than getting the existing one rebuilt for $500.........
No shop rebuilds diffs for $500 OTD.
 

Dean2

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No shop rebuilds diffs for $500 OTD.
You are correct, not ODT for $500, parts would be on top of that, but since Rock Auto has the parts in stock, as do lots of other places, and I can buy a new carrier, gears etc for about $700, you would still be way under the cost of replacing the entire rear end at $4,000. The shop is telling him they can't locate rebuild parts, so they are either lying or have no idea where to look.

Like I said at least three times in this thread, and others have too, the pictures do not reveal any issues with the carrier. What that shop is showing as breaks in the carrier with the pictures they provided are normal, machined openings in the carrier. I do not think there is anything wrong with the OPS existing diferrntial, the symptoms he descibed are most likely either normal lash in the driveline or caused by a loose pinion, bad pinion bearing, U joint, gear lash needing adjustment etc.

If you think what this shop is doing to the OP is perfectly good business practice that is your choice and you are free to deal with those kinds of places. I still say the OP needs a second opinion from a top notch driveline shop.
 

97RedRam

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Try contacting Yukon Gear for a price. I had to replace my diff a couple of years ago in my 1500 and they had a good price and lifetime warranty.
 

rosco11

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Not to poke at you, but all that should have been fairly easily spotted before buying.

And why do you need a whole new rear diff? That’s ridiculous.
Dodge is no longer producing many parts. Flat out discontinuing them, even on cars they are currently producing. It is faster, easier, and more profitable to R&R a rear end than take one apart, fix it, reinstall it. Not to mention they no longer need specialists that have to be trained and available at eveyr service location. They just need parts swappers.

To be fair, Nissan and many other manufacturers are doing the same to cut service costs/time and increase profitability. That will become the new model for all of them in time.

That said, dude, find another shop. You are being robbed. 1600 for brakes? 2000 for a front diff seal? Robbed. Stop going to the dealer. Go to a brake shop for brakes or do it yourself. U-Tube is your friend. Go to a transmission shop for the diff work. They do it all day long. And dont tell them how much you paid for what already. They will be signing up their kid to Stanford when you walk out of the door.

As far as parts, do not buy them new. I promise you that you can find a rear axil at a salvage yard for 1/3rd of what you are paying. You could have gotten a whole front diff for what youu paid to fix a seal. You could almost buy a set of Brembo brakes, new rotors and pads for what you paid for the brake job.

And next time you buy a vehicle, have it checked out by a mechanic. Clearly you missed a lot. Even if you pay one a hundred bucks to check it out, you would be way ahead. Also do not buy a vehicle with ANY mods on them. Rims, CAI, anything. It is a sure sign someone treated it like a toy and if they did, they probably drove it like a toy. If you want mods, find a car that is unmolested and do it yourself. Cars that are unmolested are more likely to have been treated as transportation and not a play thing.
 

GTyankee

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As i mentioned earlier

The OP is in Seattle Washington

HEADQUARTERS

RANDYS WorldWide, Inc.
10411 Airport Road, Suite 200
Everett, WA 98204
They have a warehouse there

RockAuto carries everything else
 

1 MEAN66

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Get a used axle assembly, from a (used parts dealer - read what we use to call junk yard) they have guarantees on their stuff. If they don't Find one that does. I am in NY state and I use (DVAP) desert valley auto parts. it is out west in multiple locations. Pull the cover look on the edge of the RING gear for the axle ratio. I would also pull the cover on the other axle assembly, they need to be the SAME axle ratio.
 

Justin33

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If it makes you feel any better I had a garage that was supposed to get my passenger cv out on a 2015. They ended up breaking something on the diff to the point it wouldn’t be drivable and I then split with them the price of a used front diff.
 

Dusty

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Dodge is no longer producing many parts. Flat out discontinuing them, even on cars they are currently producing. It is faster, easier, and more profitable to R&R a rear end than take one apart, fix it, reinstall it. Not to mention they no longer need specialists that have to be trained and available at eveyr service location. They just need parts swappers.
Parts availability issues do not automatically mean the manufacturer has discontinued a part, especially on current production models. Federal law requires all manufacturers to make replacement parts for a minimum of seven years.

That aside, the part number listed by the OP, 0517301AB, is invalid. There are not enough digits.

ADDENDUM

The number in question is a manufacturing part identification number. Numbers that start with "0" usually refer back to a drawing number and generally have no relationship to the field spare number. Either that or the part number is 30-40 years old before they went to eight digits and a revision suffix.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 91274 miles.
 
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62Blazer

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Keep in mind that finding a used Power Wagon axle in the junkyard may not be that easy! According to production numbers I have seen they made less than 1,000 PW's in 2013, and only about 4,000 total of the 2010-2013 model years that I believe actually would have a bolt-in axle (correct style and gear ratio). Not aware of any other Rams having 4.56 gears other than the PW?
 

farout75

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Need OEM part #0517301AB. Mine is toast on truck I just bought. I was completely screwed over on this deal. Backstory I paid $27K for as is used 2013 Power Wagon. 1st needed brakes all the way around that was 1600$ okay no big deal there brakes are brakes. 2nd needs new rear Bilstein Shocks$439. 3rd Front axle diff seals leaking and pinion seeping so $1897 to repair front diff. 4th now for the clunking sound isolated to rear diff. so was openedand this was found see images below. Here is link to full Diagnostic Report Of course bought as is and now im looking at 7600 in repairs because rear diff cannot be found so I am gonna have to get whole rear end complete for $3211.99 totalling to $4086.99 for just that rear so yeah all in $7600. I'm kind of screwed as i just bought it and I'm stuck with it.


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Who gave you the quote? Those are dealer prices. I know because my dealer quoted me $1.600. for brakes too. I went to a different dealer and got my rotors turned and new pads for $450. I do know differential parts are quite expensive, I bought a 14 ran that the window sticker said it had 3:55 gears but instead had 3:21 gears. FCA gave me about $2,000. in parts. There were about 2,000 people who had this happen. Some joined with a Lawyer, I talked directly with FCA and the others I never heard about.
 
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