rwalk
Senior Member
Can I get a link to this procomp lift? I want to see how they advertise it
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Click/Clunk upon acceleration from stop?
- Thread starter sausec17
- Start date
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sausec17
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preachp
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Hi Sausec17,
In the picture that shows the front yoke you are loosing about 1 inch of spline. That is a broken tailshaft looking for a place to happen. You have 400 ft lb of torque in that engine and 390 hp. You need that shaft fit all the way in of you will end up snapping the end of the tail shaft off or stripping the splines off it. Don't ask me how I know. JMHO
preachp
In the picture that shows the front yoke you are loosing about 1 inch of spline. That is a broken tailshaft looking for a place to happen. You have 400 ft lb of torque in that engine and 390 hp. You need that shaft fit all the way in of you will end up snapping the end of the tail shaft off or stripping the splines off it. Don't ask me how I know. JMHO
preachp
Ram-Rod
Senior Member
Before you look into dropping the transmission a bit and/or correcting the axle. I would at least consider a custom driveshaft. The cost might be a bit more but leaving your trans mounted where it's supposed to be is nice. They can usually handle much higher joint angles, are much stronger (often lighter), and you can get one that has some slide like a jeep so as you cycle through all your travel you wont have any binding due to shaft length.
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sausec17
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I agree on the longer driveshaft no doubt and maybe even a custom one. I am just trying to figure out why Pro Comp wouldnt address this issue in their kit? I mean, some people havent had a problem but I do and I feel its obligated for Pro Comp to correct this issue to make the kit work as it is intended.
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sausec17
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Anybody have a picture of the stock driveshaft at the tranny? I think I just need to extended it the length of the shiny part In front of the rust. Not sure if it goes in anymore than that though
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sausec17
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Anybody have a picture of the stock driveshaft at the tranny? I think I just need to extended it the length of the shiny part In front of the rust. Not sure if it goes in anymore than that though
Ram-Rod
Senior Member
I can get one when I get off work for you. Agreed, they should at least have advertised that you might need a driveshaft. Usually most lift kits (jeeps etc.) will advertise the need for one if required. Absolutely try to call them and see what they say, maybe if you can't get in touch with them try to get the dealer who sold you the lift to contact them.
I personally would lean towards a driveshaft just to avoid putting undue stress on the engine and transmission mounts. Dropping the trans would put some stress on the engine and transmission mounts since the driveline would sit at an angle a bit, not to mention a higher potential to cause driveline vibrations.
I personally would lean towards a driveshaft just to avoid putting undue stress on the engine and transmission mounts. Dropping the trans would put some stress on the engine and transmission mounts since the driveline would sit at an angle a bit, not to mention a higher potential to cause driveline vibrations.
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sausec17
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Thanks brother that would help a lot! I don't want to extend the drive shaft too much and cause any internal issues when the suspension flexes and compresses the driveshaft into the tranny.
I contacted them and they said they have never heard of the problem and that they don't offer anything to compensate the drive shaft issue. They were huge ***** the whole time on the phone. Def wouldn't recommend this kit for other reasons as well.
I think at the moment I'm just going to get the drive shaft extended and then worry about the angle afterwards. Maybe stronger u joints or adjustable control arms
Ram-Rod
Senior Member
Most custom driveshafts can be had with much better joints, which should solve any angle issues. The one I put in my Jeep had CV joints so it could flex a lot more than the stock ones. I'm not off till pretty late this evening, PM me and I can text you one sooner rather than later!
4x4Hemi
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that doesnt look good!! I had issues with both input and output seals of my transfer case leaking and needing to be replaced...
warranty covered the input seal since the angle didnt change on that, but i had to cover the cost of the output seal (thankfully the output is only 100 bucks, and the input would have been 500+! :0 )
i didnt have that big of problems!
warranty covered the input seal since the angle didnt change on that, but i had to cover the cost of the output seal (thankfully the output is only 100 bucks, and the input would have been 500+! :0 )
i didnt have that big of problems!
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Well, again, good luck.
Yes, it will work, as they say, but that doesn't mean it wouldn't be better to have it longer or a different one made.
4x4Hemi
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just the shaft not being fully in, its hard to see the angles so im not sure. I dont get why it would be that far off... i have a 5 inch lift in the rear and my drive shafts at a very manageable angle
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sausec17
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Roger that brother. They responded saying that this rear kit is made for 4wd only. I dont see why there would be any difference in the 2wd and 4wd rears?
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No transfer case means a different drive shaft...now I want to go crawl under my truck lol
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sausec17
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Even in the rear? I know the full 4wd kit has a front drive shaft spacer, but they still dont include anything for the rear, 2wd or 4wd
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Just crunched some numbers and you're right. In fact, your longer drive shaft should actually have less of a change in length than a shorter one with any lift. Just out of curiosity though do you know how long your driveshaft is?
I don't know man lol
I don't know man lol
