Oh it makes complete sense to me. I'm just suprised that Don wouldn't suggest doing this if he thought it was necessary. Pretty solid company and it's what they specialize in. I wonder if anyone has ever brought it up to him. I know when I rotated my axle down there wasn't any resistance till...
I have mud flaps. You do have to take the bracket off that sort up supports the rear corner of the bumper. I might modify it and put it back on but not till summer. It really doesn't need to be there. I'm sure if it gets bumped in the corner it'll help a bit but no big deal without it.
Ordered an oem newer gen step for 100 bucks off eBay. According to another forum member it’ll bolt up. I’ll post pics when I get it all figured out or won’t. Haha. Hope it works.
I’d just do Thuren’s 1.5 level and call it a day. Probably won’t notice the .5 inch difference anyways plus it’ll make it just high enough where it won’t fit in a seven foot door. Long story short I do not have it but I’ve had bds stuff before and their kits are pretty solid.
Yup. I’ve been down this rabbit hole with people before. Unless you have a super **** retentive state no trooper will ever stop you hauling a big load because they realize it’s a 2500. Everything else except the springs are identical
Thanks for the intro. Start posting in the Power Wagon section and you'll get better response. I also had an extended cab Dakota. 2004. Loved that truck.
On a side note......there is a lot of relocation of components with that 4" BDS setup. The disconnecting sway bar, radius arm brackets etc. If you go back down to a 2 inch you'll have to revert everything back to stock except there will be new radius arm bracket with the Carli setup.
All Power Wagons have the articulink setup also, but yes I'd probably go Carli . Their brackets are going to be better quality than BDS although BDS isn't bad. I'd keep the airbags in the back if I were you. Power Wagons don't have the same payload as a traditional 3/4 ton. It doesn't take...
I was wondering if this was going to be added to the thread. Lol. I just got mine yesterday. Glad they got a cute little sticker to put on the drag link drawing attention to their screw up. If they just would have put all this sticker money to a new drag link, we'd all have the new part. I...
I run 45 in the front and 40 in the rear. Check out Thurens website. They talk about tire pressure a bit. A 35 on 17's will definitely have different characteristics than a 35 on 20's if that makes any sense.
I ran -18’s on one of my last trucks. Just depends on the truck. As I said in my statement before I actually like the look of a rim with a negative offset. Just giving the op another opinion.
I’m sure it’ll turn into a 300 dollar job because of magical expensive brake fluid. But yes the bleeding part what what I was worried about. I’ll check into my options
Why do you want them out so far? I’m not an old guy with huge flares and a +50 offset, but it’s going to trash your paint. +1 at best. Yes rims with more contour look good. I won’t disagree.
I think I'm going to tackle this job myself, but I was just wondering if I'm going to run into any issues doing it. I do have an aftermarket warranty that should cover it, but the deductible is 200 bucks. I can get both lines for around 100. The part #'s are 68204418AC and 68204421AC.
From...
Not sure what else I'll be doing to it. Probably the black third brake light. Not sure if I'll actually wire in the cargo camera or not. If anyone has one of those laying around or wants to swap before they trade let me know.
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