06 dodge 3500 overheating

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TTKC

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2006 dodge ram 3500 5.9 24v cummins

Replaced thermostate and the fan clutch hub.

Fan clutch seems to working I think.

Idling the truck and it gets to 230*
Can't locate any relay box to check relays.
Has 1 fuse box under hood driver side by the battery but has no relays in it to check hub relays or A/C relay

Truck only has 1 fan that is from the waterpump. Not multiple.

Brand new condensor, removed CAC and cleaned outside and cleaned outside of radiator.

Radiator has coolant and so does reservoir. Why is my truck still overheating
 
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TTKC

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Is the top hose hot?

As far as I know. I can drive it tomorrow and check. Whats that going to tell me if its hot or not? if the thermostate is working or not? Id hope it is. Its the second one Ive put in, in the last few months just to make sure that it wasnt the issue. The last one I put in was a better quality one. Lifetime warraty and a 180* thermostate.
 

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It'll tell you if your pump is working mainly, the tstat lets coolant come through even when closed (not a lot, but some). You can always pull your tstat and boil it.
 
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TTKC

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It'll tell you if your pump is working mainly, the tstat lets coolant come through even when closed (not a lot, but some). You can always pull your tstat and boil it.
I can check this and see if what that does. My main thing is im wondering if my fan hub isnt working. Ive never actually checked to see if its kicking up when it gets that hot but maybe ill try that tomorrow and see what happens. Im just over fighting this overheating issue. There is only so many things that it can be that isnt working.
 
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TTKC

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So I went for a test drive. it got up to 198* and nothing changed. (its not very hot today so cant get it hotter)
Took it home and popped the hood and the fan clutch still hasnt engaged. I checked the top coolant hose to the radiator. It is hot but I can squeeze it with 2 fingers no problem.
Let the truck idle for a good 15 minutes, temp still at 192* and still doesnt feel like any fluid is traveleing through the coolant line.
 

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I am wondering if you have a lot of air in the cooling system

for a quick check, drive up on blocks & get the front end up in the air several inches, so that the top of the radiator higher than any part of the engine

Take the radiator cap off & start the engine & let it run
The water should start moving at some point
Mostly watch for air bubbles
I forgot turn your heater on high & the heater fan also
 
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TTKC

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I am wondering if you have a lot of air in the cooling system

for a quick check, drive up on blocks & get the front end up in the air several inches, so that the top of the radiator higher than any part of the engine

Take the radiator cap off & start the engine & let it run
The water should start moving at some point
Mostly watch for air bubbles
I forgot turn your heater on high & the heater fan also

So did what you said and put the truck on ramps that are about 10" high. took cap off and started truck with heat. I did notice the radiator was low at that piont. Prolly from removing the thermostat. I checked the coolant yesterday by removing the cap and it looked full, just to add a note there. When I drove up the ramps and from previously checking the thermostate a few hours ago, I added almost a gallon of water. Id say 3 quarts more likely. The thermostate never did open though, no water circulation that I could tell and no air bubbles. Temp was 183* though. Also ill add that I tested the thermostate a few hours ago and it was opening when I boiled it.
 

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I don't see how that is possible, unless the coolant did not heat up enough to reach the thermostats opening point
 
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TTKC

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I don't see how that is possible, unless the coolant did not heat up enough to reach the thermostats opening point
Well ive got one of those edge gauge monitor things. Thats the temp that it was showing and my dash gauge id say was pretty close to that as well.
But as that temp was reached, no bubbles with the cap off and didnt seem like there was any water moving.

Ill do the test again tomorrow and see what happens.
 

Fuel35 67

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Did you buy a non Cummins thermostat? If so, I’m betting that’s your problem. Order one from Geno’s Garage.
 
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TTKC

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Did you buy a non Cummins thermostat? If so, I’m betting that’s your problem. Order one from Geno’s Garage.
But my thermostat is working. I tested in multiple times yesterday. boiled it and when it gets to 180* it opens.
I just bought it a few months ago and put it in.

I dont think its the thermostat but i cant figure out what it is. Brand new thermostat, brand new fan hub. There are times it gets over 200* and up to 230* but I never hear my fan kick on.
 

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At which point does a thermostat open ?

Does a 180 open at 180 or 185 or 187 in real life ?
 
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TTKC

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At which point does a thermostat open ?

Does a 180 open at 180 or 185 or 187 in real life ?
When i boiled my water, it was at 200*. As soon as I put it in the water it started to open up. I guess I could try to actually boil the thermostat and watch until it hits the 180* mark.
But still wouldnt explain why my temp has still gotten up to 230*
 

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Somewhere in KCMO area, you will find a Radiator Shop

Not a auto parts place or a regular garage

An honest Radiator Shop
First drive it around to get it warmed up to 180 or 190
Then drive in & find the guy that is likely wearing dirty overalls :)
Ask him if he will look at your radiator & give him the history of the problem.

Chances are he will use his temperature tool & do a few other things.

He will explain what he thinks is wrong

It may be that enough of the radiators tubes are plugged that it is not functioning properly
If that happens, he will give you a few choices

1) pull the radiator out & bring it to him to fix
2) have him pull it & fix it
3) if it is unfixable, his prices will beat any other place in town for a new core, it is not common that the end tanks are bad.

By the way, you will be real happy with the repaired radiator, if that turns out to be your problem

 

Fuel35 67

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For $50-60 bucks for a Genuine Cummins thermostat, it would be worth it. Now the fan not kicking on, that’s significant. Your temp shouldn’t get to 230, fan should kick on around 215-217 and the correct temp thermostat for your truck is a 190. Thermostats start to open at the rated temperature. My 11’ is a 200. It starts opening at 200 and when it hits 206-207, the temp comes down to 195-196 and it’ll stabilize at 198-199 depending on ambient temp. Have you pressure washed the ac condenser, inter cooler and radiator? Don’t go balls to the wall, but you’d be surprised at the dirt that’ll come out.

Start with the fan since you say it’s not coming on. Go to a shop and see if they have the scan tool to turn the fan on.
 

GTyankee

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I forgot that they have scan tools to force the fan to turn on
I am too old school in my thinking
 
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TTKC

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For $50-60 bucks for a Genuine Cummins thermostat, it would be worth it. Now the fan not kicking on, that’s significant. Your temp shouldn’t get to 230, fan should kick on around 215-217 and the correct temp thermostat for your truck is a 190. Thermostats start to open at the rated temperature. My 11’ is a 200. It starts opening at 200 and when it hits 206-207, the temp comes down to 195-196 and it’ll stabilize at 198-199 depending on ambient temp. Have you pressure washed the ac condenser, inter cooler and radiator? Don’t go balls to the wall, but you’d be surprised at the dirt that’ll come out.

Start with the fan since you say it’s not coming on. Go to a shop and see if they have the scan tool to turn the fan on.
I just installed a complete new AC system including a brand new condesor. When i replaced that I took the CAC off as well and cleaned it and the radiator on the outside with aluminum brighter, soap and water.

As far as the thermostat, its brand new and it works as I did boil it and test it. I wanted a lower temp thermostat which is why I went with a 180*. Gets extremly hot in the summer where I live.

But yeah when the temps get up that high I dont hear the fan come on. Which is weird because its brand new. And I have check the wiring, its not cut or anything.
 

lpennock

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So I went for a test drive. it got up to 198* and nothing changed. (its not very hot today so cant get it hotter)
Took it home and popped the hood and the fan clutch still hasnt engaged. I checked the top coolant hose to the radiator. It is hot but I can squeeze it with 2 fingers no problem.
Let the truck idle for a good 15 minutes, temp still at 192* and still doesnt feel like any fluid is traveleing through the coolant line.
Fan clutch will not engage until around 217 degrees.

Most likely you have an air bubble in the cooling system. I normally will pull one heater hose and add a temp extension from the nipple I removed if from. Then start filling the extension until the fluid comes out the pulled hose. Make sure both the hose and the extension are above the top of the head.
 
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TTKC

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So just an update before reading anyones replys today. Last 3-4 days driving around has been pretty normal. betwen 180*-190* no problem.
Today though, got off the highway and driving home. From the highway to my house is about ohh maybe 10 minutes of driving, roughly 4-5 miles.
As soon as I got onto my street I noticed the temp and it hit 210*. Popped the hood, let it idle there for about another 10 minutes and still between 209*-210* and nothing changed.
Fan obvouisly didnt kick on but sounds like from what you guys are saying is it wont kick on till higher. So I grabbed the top radiator hose and it is hot but I can squeeze it with ease. Shouldnt the top radiator hose be a little harder to squeeze or shouldnt i be able to somewhat feel water going through it?

On the note on a possible air bubble in the system, I did top the radiator off with fluid as it was maybe 3 quarts low last week.

Your saying to pull one of the heater core hoses off (above the head) and top the fluid off that way or see if its topped off from there?

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