100k maintenance?

[ab22]

Hey all. Picked up my first Ram a little bit ago. It's getting close to 100k on the odometer. Wondering what sorts of things I should be checking and doing at this number of mileage. I don't know much about what has been done on it in terms of service history, but I want to keep it running for another 100k if possible. It's a 2014 2500 with the 6.7l. Running great so far, want to keep it that way.

Thanks!

 

[craiggemt]

Just getting broke in. You'll get alot more than 100k if you take care of it.

Oil change
Fuel filters change
CCV filter change
Trans, diff, and transfer case fluid change

 

[Treburkulosis]

Oil change, plugs, all the fluids radiator, PS, brake fluid, possibly brakes pads? rear end fluid, transmission fluid and filter, and the PCV is what I would do if it were mine.

 

[turkeybird56]

Just getting broke in. You'll get alot more than 100k if you take care of it.

Oil change
Fuel filters change
CCV filter change
Trans, diff, and transfer case fluid change

^^^^^^^^^^^^ DITTO on a Cummins ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Above minimum.

 

[SouthTexan]

On top of what was already stated, I would invest in a boost leak tester. They are fairly cheap and I would test it every time you replace your air filter. Small leaks can rob you of power and cause higher than normal EGT's. Also, verify that the engine has had the water pump recall done.

 

[ab22]

Thanks all, great advice

 

[FlatbedHemi]

WOuld you guys still recomend a fluid change on a transmission you dont know if its ever been changed on? Ive always heard you either change them every so many miles (depending on transmission) or not at all, but I have always driven high mile Chevys and this is my first Ram with 100K so it may be different.

Only bring it up because I changed the fluid in one of mine at 100K, and it caused a failure. Clutches were worn out and all the friction material was in the fluid. Took the old fluid out and removed the clutch material. The fresh fluid quickly washed off what was left and I required a rebuild within a few days of the change. This was a 4L60E, and I have no experience with the 66RFE or 68RFE. Just throwing this out there for consideration.

 

[spoon059]

OP, if you aren't familiar with the service history I would immediately change the fuel filters, oil and filter. Those are the most important things on this truck. Fuel filters (one under the bed, one under the hood) every 15K miles without fail. Oil and filter at least every 15K miles or every year (many will say at least every 6 months, but I only drive 8000 miles a year).

At 100K you are due for a transmission fluid change. I've seen videos... I'm going to pay someone else to wear trans fluid!

At 67,500 miles you were due for a CCV filter. If you aren't certain it was done, I'd recommend it. They are $60 or $70 on the internet and very easy to change. Watch a video, its literally 8 bolts to remove the engine cover and then it pops into place.

I forget when they recommend transfer case and axle fluid changes, but again at 100K miles its cheap insurance to put new fluid in.

Drive it hard every once in a while (once its warmed up, of course). These trucks were meant to work, and especially the 6.7 gets a little grumpy if you don't work them. I use tow haul and exhaust brake all the time, towing or empty. Its supposed to be good for the turbo spools (to keep them clean) and it saves on your service brakes. Use good fresh DEF, I prefer getting it from a truck stop if possible. Other than that, enjoy!

 

[SouthTexan]

WOuld you guys still recomend a fluid change on a transmission you dont know if its ever been changed on? Ive always heard you either change them every so many miles (depending on transmission) or not at all, but I have always driven high mile Chevys and this is my first Ram with 100K so it may be different.

Only bring it up because I changed the fluid in one of mine at 100K, and it caused a failure. Clutches were worn out and all the friction material was in the fluid. Took the old fluid out and removed the clutch material. The fresh fluid quickly washed off what was left and I required a rebuild within a few days of the change. This was a 4L60E, and I have no experience with the 66RFE or 68RFE. Just throwing this out there for consideration.

Old transmissions were prone to this if you do not reset the valve body solenoids (either mechanically or electronically) to the viscosity of the new fluid. These parts continuously adjust the amount of trans fluid going into the clutch packs to keep them together. Over time, trans fluid viscosity decreases along with clutch material so more fluid needs to be added. When you change the fluid with fresh trans fluid that has a higher viscosity without resetting these shift solenoids for this change, then they will add too much fluid to the clutch packs causing leaks and other failures.

This is why it is highly recommended to perform a "re-learn" on the 68/66RFE (or any electronic trans) and to take it easy for the first 30-50 miles so the the transmission can re-learn how much fluid it needs to inject into these clutch packs. Too little line pressure and they will slip and burn up. To much line pressure and it will have too much pressure causing an internal leak somewhere in the valve body. This re-learn process or solenoid adjustment used to take a lot more time on older transmissions, and many of your basic fluid change places didn't (and still don't) even know you need to do this every time you change the fluid.

 

[FlatbedHemi]

Old transmissions were prone to this if you do not reset the valve body solenoids (either mechanically or electronically) to the viscosity of the new fluid. These parts continuously adjust the amount of trans fluid going into the clutch packs to keep them together. Over time, trans fluid viscosity decreases along with clutch material so more fluid needs to be added. When you change the fluid with fresh trans fluid that has a higher viscosity without resetting these shift solenoids for this change, then they will add too much fluid to the clutch packs causing leaks and other failures.

This is why it is highly recommended to perform a "re-learn" on the 68/66RFE (or any electronic trans) and to take it easy for the first 30-50 miles so the the transmission can re-learn how much fluid it needs to inject into these clutch packs. Too little line pressure and they will slip and burn up. To much line pressure and it will have too much pressure causing an internal leak somewhere in the valve body. This re-learn process or solenoid adjustment used to take a lot more time on older transmissions, and many of your basic fluid change places didn't (and still don't) even know you need to do this every time you change the fluid.

So the "relearn" is just driving easy, or is there anything electronically involved?

 

[SouthTexan]

So the "relearn" is just driving easy, or is there anything electronically involved?

You have to flash the transmission control module (TCM) to reset the values. Then take it easy(lass than 30% throttle) for the next 30-50 miles trying to go through all of the gears as much as possible. It will likely shift pretty hard at first until it re-learns the values. Most transmission shops should have the software/hardware to flash the TCM.

 

[chri5k]

Oil change, plugs, all the fluids radiator, PS, brake fluid, possibly brakes pads? rear end fluid, transmission fluid and filter, and the PCV is what I would do if it were mine.

Plugs??? On a Cummins 6.7.

 

[FlatbedHemi]

You have to flash the transmission control module (TCM) to reset the values. Then take it easy(lass than 30% throttle) for the next 30-50 miles trying to go through all of the gears as much as possible. It will likely shift pretty hard at first until it re-learns the values. Most transmission shops should have the software/hardware to flash the TCM.

Can the AlfaOBD software do this?

 

[SouthTexan]

Can the AlfaOBD software do this?

I am not sure. I would think so. I do it with my EFI live tuner or my Foxwell NT530. I can try to see if my Alpha OBD app can do it.