130 lb torque lug nuts.....

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Marshall

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19 in Factory ? Not 20 in, or am I missing something, I have summer wheels and winter after market wheels that take a splinted socket, so I have a long br. bar and couple sockets under the back seat
many yrs ago Dad bought a new 1980 dodge 1/2 ton, and not long after had a low tire, tried to take it off and gave up, aired it up and back to the dealer. They took all the wheel off, with 3/4" impact, broke about 25% they tried a 250 lb torque wrench and it never clicked, so don't know what the hell the factory was doing. No way to get those off on a road.
 

BAMF

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so, after checking torque on my new/used 2015 Ram 1500 that i picked up(aluminum factory 19 inch wheels) come to realize that torqueing to 130 ft/lbs makes those puppies REAL tght. question is, if ya get a flat on the road somewhere, how do ya get them nuts loose..?? didnt look at the lug wrench that comes with the truck(under the passinger seat) but have to imagine that it's not REAL long to apply leverage to get them loose.....any thoughts.....except spending lots more time in the gym, that is......
I have 2015 with 20" wheels and the torque on my lugnuts is 75ft lbs. 130 sounds crazy high.

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LouM

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From my owners manual for my 2015 Big Horn;

Using the lug wrench, finish tightening
the wheel nuts using a crisscross pattern. The correct wheel nut tightness is
130 ft lbs (176 N·m) torque (1500 Series), 135 ft lbs (183 N·m) torque for
2500/3500 single-rear wheel (SRW) models, and 140 ft lbs (190 N·m) for 3500
dual rear-wheel models. If in doubt about the correct tightness, have them
checked with a torque wrench by your authorized dealer or at a service station.
 

Quyonmob

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I have 2015 with 20" wheels and the torque on my lugnuts is 75ft lbs. 130 sounds crazy high.

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this doesn’t sound right, I would double check the manual
 

Thornback

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I carry a socket, breaker bar, and a length of pipe. I think 130 ft lbs takes a little muscle. I used to overhaul 1600 HP diesels and the rods were torqued at 175 and the mains at 350. We used a come-along to pull 350 ft lbs.
 

Donn

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I was mistaken.... I thought I remembered 75 ft lbs. It's 95 ft lbs. 306ec12b21d43f76cba748c3a49d48a0.jpg

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I've always just torqued to 95-100 ft-lbs. Never had any issues in years. I don't understand why it would need 130lbs
 

bm02tj

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If it is the 1/2 in fine thread it is less than the coarse metric which needs higher torque to get the same clamping force
 

LouM

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I was mistaken.... I thought I remembered 75 ft lbs. It's 95 ft lbs. 306ec12b21d43f76cba748c3a49d48a0.jpg

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That spec is from a manual for the late 1990's it is not applicable to the newer trucks.
 

BAMF

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That spec is from a manual for the late 1990's it is not applicable to the newer trucks.
Son of a gun.... It has the torque spec in my owners manual for 130 ft lbs! Where in the hell did I get a manual from the freaking 90s?!

Looks like I'm retorqueing my lug nuts after work.

Thanks a ton! 29e9c70ea853da24fc7255e36c284ff3.jpg

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jmc921

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Son of a gun.... It has the torque spec in my owners manual for 130 ft lbs! Where in the hell did I get a manual from the freaking 90s?!

Looks like I'm retorqueing my lug nuts after work.

Thanks a ton! 29e9c70ea853da24fc7255e36c284ff3.jpg

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I was just about to send a copy of that page in the Owner's Manual (for my 2014) but at least you're on the right "page" now.
 

jmc921

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By the way, I did just have an incident where one of my lug nuts "disappeared". Friend noticed it when he was parked next to me. I bought a replacement lug nut and then loosened and torqued all of the nuts. I found some that were quite tight and some that I almost fell over removing them because they were unexpectedly loose. The last time the tires had been rotated, it was by a mechanic I go to all of the time and I have watched him carefully torque the lug nuts on all the cars he works on so I have to believe they were torqued properly.

Lesson is that these things can come loose over time and need to be checked periodically. The manual says to re-torque the nuts after 25 miles. Does anyone have any recommendations on how often to check them after that?
 

Elkman

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I use anti-sieze compound to avoid a galvanic response and corrosion with the stud threads. With my 2011 Duramax 2500 the recommendation is to check the wheel nuts and re-torque them every 7500 miles to 140 lb ft. and this has been the recommendation from 1999 to 2018 model years.

I prefer to go with the recommendations of the automotive engineers and not with my gut on such matters.
 

Sherman Bird

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This. Under my back seat with several impact sockets in metric & std.
I also lightly coat lug studs with Never Sieze and yeah, I know they say don't. They also say you can loosten lugs with a short, bent jack handle too but, I won't fall for that ever again. Re-torque them after initial install to ease your mind. Haven't had one come loose in over 45 years.
PS: Let your spare down & hit that with Neverseize too before you need it..4896148e50f8330b7d910a5cf3953547.jpg


Porsche put never-seize on their lugs back in the day.... and some of those cars were in excess of a hundred grand! I saw that and figured "what the heck?" and began doing it in the 80's.... and never ever had a single issue!
BTW, 100 grand back then (1985) is 239 thousand in today's dollars!
 

Jeremy Fry

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I have a length of pvc I throw in the toolbox just for that. It's about 3ft long makes a hell of a breaker bar. Mostly in case the kid who rotates the tires gets all crazy with the impact.

Also came in handy to break loose the caliper bracket bolts, talk about TIGHT!

I keep a black pipe. I always worry about pvc breaking on me.


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Sherman Bird

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Anybody using anti-seize or similar on lug nuts needs to be aware that dry torque and “wet” (lubricated) torque specs quite often differ. Manual spec is dry torque.

Most vehicles don't need any lube on the lugs today. With the zinc coating on them and the nuts, I don't lube them anymore.
 
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