130 lb torque lug nuts.....

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LouM

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Most vehicles don't need any lube on the lugs today. With the zinc coating on them and the nuts, I don't lube them anymore.

To much salt and corrosion around here from winter road maintenance not to use something. I always use just a bit of never seize on all mine trucks tractor cars they all get a dab, and I use just a bit under the torque listed,
I bought some torque sticks a few (several) years ago I will usually check them once in awhile against my torque wrenches and they are very close, between them and the cordless impact wrench it's much easier to swap tires around then it used to be.
 

grumpygirl

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Just put the lug wrench on there horizontal and stand on it. they've come off every time for me that way, except for that one junkyard truck i was trying to get the tires off. spent 20 min trying all the tricks till some old guy came by and told us they were left hand threads. sure enough, flipped it around and they came right off. who would have thought.
 

Elkman

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Or buy an impact wrench and an impact socket. Corded ones sell for $40 an up.
 

Elkman

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Anybody using anti-seize or similar on lug nuts needs to be aware that dry torque and “wet” (lubricated) torque specs quite often differ. Manual spec is dry torque.

And where in the manual does it state that it is a "dry torque" value? If anything, without the anti-seize the torque reading is going to be higher than the actual tightness of the nut on the stud. Ever remove a nut from a rusted stud and noticed how much more torque is needed?
 

Quyonmob

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And where in the manual does it state that it is a "dry torque" value? If anything, without the anti-seize the torque reading is going to be higher than the actual tightness of the nut on the stud. Ever remove a nut from a rusted stud and noticed how much more torque is needed?

Dry torque is assumed as there is no direction to coat the threads with any lubricant or coating. It there was instruction to do so, it would be a wet torque spec.

Torque of application (which is what we are talking about) isn’t always the same as torque of removal. Rust, temp, yield, material erosion, etc, all change removal torque either positively or negatively, and potentially dramatically.

I live in Canada. Rust eats everything here, usually before I even have it paid off.
 

Firetruck41

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And where in the manual does it state that it is a "dry torque" value? If anything, without the anti-seize the torque reading is going to be higher than the actual tightness of the nut on the stud. Ever remove a nut from a rusted stud and noticed how much more torque is needed?
I'm unclear on what you are saying.

The purpose of a torque value for the lug nuts, is not to get a certain "tightness" of the nut, the purpose is to get a certain clamping force of the nut/wheel to the hub/rotor. The torque value is just a way of ensuring you are applying the correct clamping force.

If you tighten a dry lug nut to a value of 140 ft-lb, and were to be able to mark the exact position on the stud threads, that is basically where you want the nut, in order to apply the correct clamping force. If you were to apply oil/lubricant, and turned the nut until you got to that exact same position on the stud, it would take less ft-lb, but you would be providing the correct clamping force. If you were to continue tightening the nut until it reached 140 ft-lb, you would be moving the nut on the stud even closer to the hub/rotor, and the clamping force would be higher than designed.

This is why I choose to use "dry" lug nuts and stud threads, and tighten to the specified torque value. I don't really have rust to worry about around here, if I did, I might consider anti-seize, and using a slightly lower torque value.
 

BWL

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It is a dry torque spec. You should clean the threads if rusty or dirty with a wire brush to keep it consistent as some dirt in the threads or corrosion will make the threads tighter and lead to under torqueing and take them back off and clean them better if you notice binding threading them on.
 

Livinalittle

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I've always torqued to 110 ft-lbs, but only because I use a 3" extension.
 

Gary2

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1000 ft/lb... That's for babies. Lol
2500 and a 4500 ft/lb torque multiplier at the shop for heavy equipment.

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We used one of them to tighten the counter weight bolts on the PC-750 a few years back . Thats quite the tool . First time I ever seen one . Them bolts stayed tight especially being on the Jetty rock job with all the salt water. Bet they had fun removing them when they went to remove them
 

DirtyWipers

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Cheap 1/2 impact has been one of the most useful tools I ever bought.
 

Tim7139

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And where in the manual does it state that it is a "dry torque" value? If anything, without the anti-seize the torque reading is going to be higher than the actual tightness of the nut on the stud. Ever remove a nut from a rusted stud and noticed how much more torque is needed?
In every RAM manual it's located under the torque table "clean or remove any dirt or oil before tightening"

When applying an anti-seize the torque value to achieve the same clamp load will be lower. This means that using the same torque value is over tightening, typically between 10% and 30%.

This is easy to test yourself by torquing one lug nut dry and one with anti-seize to the same value, waiting 10 minutes, then using your torque wrench to remove them and observing that a higher break torque value needed to remove the lubricated nut.

You could also Google torque dry vs lubricated, or look for youtube videos like the one below qued to the point it addresses anti-seize and torque.
 

Mister Luck

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I'm unclear on what you are saying.

The purpose of a torque value for the lug nuts, is not to get a certain "tightness" of the nut, the purpose is to get a certain clamping force of the nut/wheel to the hub/rotor. The torque value is just a way of ensuring you are applying the correct clamping force.

If you tighten a dry lug nut to a value of 140 ft-lb, and were to be able to mark the exact position on the stud threads, that is basically where you want the nut, in order to apply the correct clamping force. If you were to apply oil/lubricant, and turned the nut until you got to that exact same position on the stud, it would take less ft-lb, but you would be providing the correct clamping force. If you were to continue tightening the nut until it reached 140 ft-lb, you would be moving the nut on the stud even closer to the hub/rotor, and the clamping force would be higher than designed.

This is why I choose to use "dry" lug nuts and stud threads, and tighten to the specified torque value. I don't really have rust to worry about around here, if I did, I might consider anti-seize, and using a slightly lower torque value.

Effect of anti-seize compounds, coatings, lubricants, stress levels and torque coefficients on carbon steel bolts
&
Multiply standard dry torque by

Oxidized Rusted x 1.50

Silver anti-seize x 0.90

Resistoplate x 0.85

Oil SAE 20W x 0.80

WD40 x 0.80

Oil SAE 40W x 0.75

Moly grease x 0.70

Moly Paste x 0.55

Moly Cote x 0.45

Never-Seize x 0.45
 

ram1500rsm

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I have a bunch of tools underneath my rear seat, among them a couple of breaker bars and sockets. Makes the job super easy.
 
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