I forgot that I had also started the Passive Entry/Keyless Go mod before I left for work. had only managed to get the harness built, and installed the keyless to portion.
While away, isolated on a drilling rig for 5 weeks, with not much more entertainment than the internet or gym, I stumbled acrossed @allmoparparts 's thread on black interior conversion.
4th Gen Black Interior Trim Pieces
...m-Pieces.155305/&share_type=t&link_source=app
Much like the cab lights, thought to myself, no better time to do it than while you have everything already torn out. And so I researched what I would need to complete the conversion and got that on order for when I'd return.
They won't ship headliners (too risky for damage I assume) or front seatbelts (air bag/crash parts related), but luckily theres a distribution center just outside Dallas. So I made the quick trip up and picked up my seatbelts and headliner.
Once I returned, I started looking and running the Passive Entry/Keyless Go harness through the truck. Ran wire for the exterior antennas into the rear doors to be mounted and the handle wires were run into the front doors.
Interior antennas were mounted on the back wall and forward with the electrical equipment that resides under the jumpseat.
As I ran wires into the doors, I disassembled them, applied dynamat and dynaliner to the exterior sheet metal, some strategic dynamat to the middle plastic carrier plate-especially around the speaker housing, and dynamat and dynaliner to the door skin.
With the doors apart I also installed new rear/front door speakers - infinity reference REF-9632ix 6x9 2-way speakers (fronts needed a 1/4" spacer). I also installed infinity reference REF-3032cfx 3-1/2" speakers in the dash.
Having just enough time passed that I forgot how much of a pain the headliner is I decided it was time for the swap.
To start, I used a heat gun and carefully warmed the glue holding the harness to the black headliner. I then repeated the process for my original headliner.
I then began installing the new black pieces in the black headliner (rear dome light, microphone covers, overhead console.
The black headliner only comes in high end trims, so it has the cutouts for the the headliner Alpine speakers. I purchased the speaker covers, but didn't bother with any speakers.
The overhead console comes configured for homelink module and rear window button. I had neither option before, so I purchased the homelink module (plug and play mod) and transferred over my middle blank section in place of the window switch.
The black dome light and map lights come as LED already. But after re-gluing my harness on to the back headliner, all the connectors plugged in without issue and everything works as it should from factory.
While I had the headliner down, since the black sun visors have vanity lights, I made a jumper harness to run from the visors to the main harness and tapped the map lights wiring. And those work great.
With my experience from last time, getting the black headliner back up was still tedious, but went MUCH smoother.
Since I was doing all this sound deadening/proofing and installing new speakers, I decided I should get an amp. I've never had anything but stock audio components in my vehicles, none of them ever being a "premium" OEM system either. I ended up on the Kicker Key 200.4 amp.
Never having installed anything like this before, I was quite confused and hesitant. But with a lot of help from
@Graygoose , and the kicker tech support came up with a plan.
I ended up installing the key amp underneath the radio, behind the radio/HVAC bezel. I routed the input harness up to.behind the headunit and tapped the front speaker outputs. For the output I ran new speaker wire to the dash and front door speakers as I planned to use the amp in bi-amp mode and it's auto tuning tech.
Since I was going so far with the install already, I decided to add a kicker powered 10" sub. I mounted it under the passenger seat and tapped the rear speaker wires at the b-pillars for signal and ran the remote bass knob to the little cubby below the aux panel.
With all the wiring loomed and ran, I got the carpet back in and started to re-install trim panels. I used dynamat and dynaliner on both the c and b, upper and lower trim panels before re-installing.
Inspired by/copying
@MaizeNBlue I decided I wanted to add some LED cupholder accent lighting. I followed maize's thread to get a good base on how to get it done.
Installed 3 LED rings, one per cup holder. I disassembled the jump seat so I could run the wires internally - initially with hopes of taping power/ground at the jumpseat harness, but unfortunately I don't have that with my configuration.
I ended up wiring all the LEDs together and ran them to a dimmer switch I mounted next to the media hub in the jumpseat console. I then ran a harness down following the factory harness and added a two pin plug at end when it reached under the driver's seat.
For the other half of the harness, instead of tapping more wiring, since I used DC Offset (speaker high level input) to turn on the amp, I used the remote on wire (which turns to a 12v output when using DC Offset). I ran the harness from the amp (using the same.ground as the amp, and ran the wires to under the driver's seat/two pin plug. So now.if need be, I can in plug the harness and remove the jumpseat without issue.
I also happened upon some decent looking led door sill plates, typically not my thing, but figured ehhhh, lll try them out. Got a set for front and rear, spliced them together and ran them up and tapped the OEM footwell wiring.
They're not bad expect for the wires exit at the top of the plate, so they come out and immediately come down to jump behind the OEM plastic door sills. This you can see a smidge of the wiring before it disappears underneath.
Putting everything back in was a bit of a challenge and took some extra persuasion due to.thr extra volume of the dynamat, dynaliner, and dynapad, but I got it all back in.
I did however end up with 1 extra screw, 2 extra bolts, and one nut/washer....really couldn't say from where, but all the seats, seatbelts have the correct hardware and I don't hear rattling from anywhere....so [emoji2369].
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