1985 W150 fuel line too close to exhaust? Vapor lock? Fire?

[I_chew_big_red]

Strap in ladies and gents, this is a long one from a novice. For clarification, I drive a 1985 Dodge W150, 5.2L (318), 3-speed auto, 30 gallon tank, Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, and Edelbrock 1406 carb.

I think my fuel line is in a bad spot. The fuel tank is on the left side of the truck, but the fuel pump is on the right side of the engine block. The fuel line runs from the tank, crosses over the exhaust (true duals), and runs along the inside of the frame until it reaches the engine compartment. There is about 4" of space between the fuel line and the exhaust pipes where it crosses over them, and there is about 3" of space between the fuel line and exhaust where it runs along the inside of the frame. The fuel line comes into the engine compartment to the right of the engine, sits on the wheel well, and hooks up to the fuel pump on the bottom right side of the block. Given how close the fuel pump is to the exhaust manifold and considering how the fuel line comes into the engine compartment, the fuel line is sitting about 3" away from the exhaust manifold. I do not like that.

I have a clear fuel filter (plastic) just before the fuel pump and a metal fuel filter on the line from the pump to the carb. I regularly see a very large bubble in the clear plastic filter.

When I bought the truck a few weeks ago, I did not like how close the fuel line was to the exhaust manifold. I'm not a pretty man, so I sure don't need any more burn scars. I decided yesterday to zip tie (plastic) the fuel line to the wheel well to make sure the line doesnt bump into the exhaust manifold while driving. However, after I zip tied the fuel line, I started up the truck and it died about 200 feet from my driveway. It has never done this before. I couldn't get it started--it tried to turn over, but it was acting like it was out of gas. In reality, I only moved the fuel line about 1" away from the exhaust manifold to zip tie it in place and there was no tension on the line when I moved it, so I dont think it got pinched or became constricted in any way. Anyway, I popped the hood, cut the zip tie, and the truck started right up and I drove it back home.

Can someone show me how their fuel line is set up? I'm going to fab some aluminum sheet metal to create a heat shield to protect the fuel line near the exhaust headers, along the frame, and where it crosses over the exhaust. I plan on sanding this metal, priming it, and painting it with high temp engine paint. I then plan on buying thermal shielding (https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/thermal-and-heat-shield-sleeving/hp-color-sleeve) to wrap the entire fuel line. I would like to avoid having to pay for all of this if there is a more simple way to run the fuel line. Also, I would prefer to not catch on fire as well.

Thanks

 

[crazzywolfie]

does your truck have a return line hooked up after the fuel pump? if so i would try disconnecting it and plugging it. on my truck i am pretty sure the fuel line crosses right at the tank and runs straight up the passenger side frame rail. it has worked fine for me but i am running a holley 4bbl carb. the edel brock carbs are known for having issues with these engine just because of how small their float bowls are.

 

[I_chew_big_red]

The return line has been disconnected and plugged before she quit on me.

As for the proximity of the fuel line to the exhaust manifold, here is a picture of what I mean:

. Here is a link in case my IMG formatting is off: http://imgur.com/5KNMvUU

Is that too close? I've noticed a large air bubble in that clear filter in the picture, so I'm thinking it's too close and I'm dealing with some vapor lock. I'd like to reroute the fuel line and keep it off of the wheel well, but I can't find any pictures or diagrams depicting where I should run the fuel line. Any ideas? Where does your fuel line enter the engine compartment?

Thanks for your help, crazziewolfie. You're my only hope!

 

[crazzywolfie]

that should be fine. i ran my fuel line under the motor mount in the frame and then to the fuel pump instead of up like you have.

also if air is getting into the system i would almost be wondering if the fuel pump might be going bad because that is a bit of a strange spot for an air pocket to develop if things are working properly

 

[crazzywolfie]

here is what mine look like

 

[I_chew_big_red]

Okay, thanks for the information. I traced back the fuel line to see what the problem was, and I think I've figured it out. Back when she would start up, I would hear a faint humming when I turned the key. When I turn the key now, I don't hear that humming sound and she wont turn over. She tries, but there just isn't any fuel getting to the carb. She's got a new mechanical fuel pump and the fuel filters look good, so I'm 99% sure it's the electric fuel pump. It's mounted on the inside of the passenger frame rail, so swapping it with a new one shouldn't be too difficult, even for me.

I'm going to go ahead and order a new one, but I don't know which one to get. I checked out the old one and there is no information or markings on it whatsoever, so I don't know what kind of pump I need. I saw a 12V Mr. Gasket universal fuel pump for $40 that I don't mind paying for, but it's rated to 4-7 psi, and I think my mechanical fuel pump is rated to 6 psi max (not sure on this). Do you see any issue with that or do you know of a better or more appropriate fuel pump? I saw a Holley pump, but that damn thing is $130.

My fuel setup is as follows: Tank > fuel line > electric pump (external) > fuel line > plastic fuel filter > fuel line > mechanical fuel pump > fuel line > inline metal fuel filter > fuel line > carb.

 

[crazzywolfie]

You should try bypassing the electric pump. If the mechanical pump is working properly there should be no need for an electric pump.

 

[I_chew_big_red]

I rewired the pump, hooked the power up to the alternator, and grounded it on the chassis. It works now. After considering your comment, I'm going to bypass the electric pump and just run the mechanical. No sense in having both, and I want to cut back on having parts that could fail. Thanks again for your help! You've saved me four headaches so far.