2001 Ram 1500 Van HELP! <3

[Roshi]

After reading a copious amount of posts on here over the past year and learning a lot thanks to all of you! I must start a new thread in hopes I can stop pulling my hair out.
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Van, 5.2L with 46re trans 91k miles

The first occurrence about a year ago with my issue was traveling at highway speeds, around 65-75 (Arizona here) uphill and downhill mid to high ambient temps. My overdrive light will turn on to indicate od is off (which i can easily tell that it has happened) and if continued driving my trans temp light. Pulling over right away I let it cool and continue. After doing a bunch of work, which i will list, it still has the same problem. Engine temp is good city or highway, trans temp is slightly high (told by technician recently) and obviously higher when od turns off from what i read as safety feature. I also notice it has power loss and hard to climb slight hills at higher speeds after trans starts getting hot in overdrive. No problems occur if i keep it 55 or under it seems but trans still is higher than should as told by tech.

The only problem Amoco could see is a 3-4 flare which i can feel and doesn't happen that often. However when im locked up in od going 55+, there is no slipping that i can feel and over all the whole vehicle runs great. So im not sure how that would explain my overheating issues being just a 3-4 flare unless im mistaken?
Slight engine oil leak from what seems to be rear main seal or just oil pan gasket (not fixed yet)

As far as the work iv done from recent to longest;
-Checked exhaust back pressure before cat
-Fuel pressure on fuel rail
-Changed trans fluid/filter
-Pulled valve body, cleaned and checked all valves, upgraded tcc lock plate with bigger orifice
-Flushed trans oil cooler radiator (seemed okay but i should have replaced)
-Adjusted TV cable
-Replaced spark plugs
-Clean distributor cap
-Changed trans fluid/filter
-Replaced all solenoids, governor or whatever else and accumulator spring (which was of course broken)
-Changed engine oil/filter
-Greased zerks
-Flushed radiator
-Pulley replaced (forgot which one, was squealing)
-Water pump, fan clutch, thermostat
Previous known work before me
-Trans cooler line check valve was taken off
-ECU/PCM was replaced (unknown reason)

From collecting all the info i could from here and what is happening. I can only conclude it its possibly my torque converter causing over heating?
Or even something as simple as my trans oil cooler being slighting clogged still and at higher speeds not enough circulation occurs, especially in this heat and up hills.
Would any of this also cause power loss when my trans gets hotter?
No codes put out ever

I am stumped! Any and all input on this situation would be more than appreciated after having a headache for a year.
Thanks in advanced

 

[Fast69Mopar]

After reading a copious amount of posts on here over the past year and learning a lot thanks to all of you! I must start a new thread in hopes I can stop pulling my hair out.
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Van, 5.2L with 46re trans 91k miles

The first occurrence about a year ago with my issue was traveling at highway speeds, around 65-75 (Arizona here) uphill and downhill mid to high ambient temps. My overdrive light will turn on to indicate od is off (which i can easily tell that it has happened) and if continued driving my trans temp light. Pulling over right away I let it cool and continue. After doing a bunch of work, which i will list, it still has the same problem. Engine temp is good city or highway, trans temp is slightly high (told by technician recently) and obviously higher when od turns off from what i read as safety feature. I also notice it has power loss and hard to climb slight hills at higher speeds after trans starts getting hot in overdrive. No problems occur if i keep it 55 or under it seems but trans still is higher than should as told by tech.

The only problem Amoco could see is a 3-4 flare which i can feel and doesn't happen that often. However when im locked up in od going 55+, there is no slipping that i can feel and over all the whole vehicle runs great. So im not sure how that would explain my overheating issues being just a 3-4 flare unless im mistaken?
Slight engine oil leak from what seems to be rear main seal or just oil pan gasket (not fixed yet)

As far as the work I've done from recent to longest;
-Checked exhaust back pressure before cat
-Fuel pressure on fuel rail
-Changed trans fluid/filter
-Pulled valve body, cleaned and checked all valves, upgraded tcc lock plate with bigger orifice
-Flushed trans oil cooler radiator (seemed okay but i should have replaced)
-Adjusted TV cable
-Replaced spark plugs
-Clean distributor cap
-Changed trans fluid/filter
-Replaced all solenoids, governor or whatever else and accumulator spring (which was of course broken)
-Changed engine oil/filter
-Greased zerks
-Flushed radiator
-Pulley replaced (forgot which one, was squealing)
-Water pump, fan clutch, thermostat
Previous known work before me
-Trans cooler line check valve was taken off
-ECU/PCM was replaced (unknown reason)

From collecting all the info i could from here and what is happening. I can only conclude it its possibly my torque converter causing over heating?
Or even something as simple as my trans oil cooler being slighting clogged still and at higher speeds not enough circulation occurs, especially in this heat and up hills.
Would any of this also cause power loss when my trans gets hotter?
No codes put out ever

I am stumped! Any and all input on this situation would be more than appreciated after having a headache for a year.
Thanks in advanced

If you do not have a DTC set for:
P1740 TCC/OD Solenoid Performance

And you have replaced the TCC/OD Solenoid, I would replace the boost pressure valve cover plate if you have not already done so. If you have, I would remove the O/D unit from the rear of the trans and inspect the O/D snap ring and wave washer for damage and inspect the O/D piston and seal for damage.

My guess without seeing the trans is that the 4th gear snap ring and wave washer is broken into several pieces.

 

[Roshi]

Thanks for the reply Fast69Mopar
I will look more into the o/d snap ring and seal but I thought from what i read that reverse will no longer work when such happens.
The boost pressure valve cover plate was replaced with one having a bigger orifice (attached image)

 

[Fast69Mopar]

Thanks for the reply Fast69Mopar
I will look more into the o/d snap ring and seal but I thought from what i read that reverse will no longer work when such happens.
The boost pressure valve cover plate was replaced with one having a bigger orifice (attached image)View attachment 463187

Good deal. Glad you replaced the boost valve cover with the upgraded part.

For the O/D clutch snap ring, you will only loose 1st and reverse if the direct clutch wave washer or snap ring breaks, not 4th gear.

Remove the O/D unit and inspect the piston/seal/retainer that is on the rear of the case. When you remove the O/D unit you will see the O/D clutch piston.

 

[Roshi]

Alright thanks once again. I took it into a shop today and will see what they say. Unfortunately with blistering temps in arizona i cant do much work on it myself atm. Was considering buying floor press and rebuilding whole trans myself but just not doable for now.
Im concerned on what parts they will use to rebuild any of it.
Does anyone think i should let them rebuild or buy a reman trans from Streetsmarttransmissions and have them install it?

 

[Roshi]

FIXED!
Hats off to Van Zeppelin over at dodge talk for mentioning collapsing cooler hoses.
I put a 11x10 inch plate cooler rated at 30,000 gvw and replaced the rubber lines going from cooler to metal trans cooler lines.
Drove over 2,500 miles in 50 days from arizona through colorado mountains and back without any problems.

I still notice a lack of power with o/d off going up some steep grades at higher speeds when its a bit warmer but it could be normal? Everything seems fine however i still suspect the torque converter could be an issue or something i lack knowledge of. I also notice some vacuum problems (using a/c and speed control together does the infamous switch to defrost) iv heard about the check valve but i cleaned it and seems to be functioning correctly. So perhaps a vacuum leak could be the culprit for low power, around the intake manifold? I hear some air noise in that area.

 

[Daw14]

Some fresh o2 sensors may help .

 

[Dodge trucker]

Those OD units can be removed, without pulling the whole trans. Been there, done that. being in a van makes it easiest of anything that trans was put in, lotsa room to work under that. There is a wave washer snap ring back there that is known for breaking that causes issues (from what youre saying it doesnt seem to be your case) First thing Id be doing would be to add an aux trans cooler to what you already have and a trans temp gauge. anything over 200* is bad news for trans temp. Don't bypass the in radiator cooler, justa dd the trans cooler to it. That'll look like another small radiator. Those OD units are known for dumping additional heat into those trannys. which are basically a 727 trans, ahead of that OD. there are tricks they tell you to do inside the trans while apart to increase fluid flow to the OD unit as well.
doesnt sound like theres anything wrong with the engine to cause what youre describing.

 

[Dodge trucker]

FIXED!
Hats off to Van Zeppelin over at dodge talk for mentioning collapsing cooler hoses.
I put a 11x10 inch plate cooler rated at 30,000 gvw and replaced the rubber lines going from cooler to metal trans cooler lines.
Drove over 2,500 miles in 50 days from arizona through colorado mountains and back without any problems.

I still notice a lack of power with o/d off going up some steep grades at higher speeds when its a bit warmer but it could be normal? Everything seems fine however i still suspect the torque converter could be an issue or something i lack knowledge of. I also notice some vacuum problems (using a/c and speed control together does the infamous switch to defrost) iv heard about the check valve but i cleaned it and seems to be functioning correctly. So perhaps a vacuum leak could be the culprit for low power, around the intake manifold? I hear some air noise in that area.

I didnt see this when I wrote the 1st reply. Id be looking at the intake plenum gasket, they are notorious on that engine. basically create a vacuum leak right into the crankcase. a little labor intensive but not bad and not alot of cost in parts. If it were mine I'd be replacing that "just because" of age and miles. whether it needs it right now or not. just like the reason you do tuneups and oil changes.

 

[Roshi]

I have looked down through throttle body (see attached image). It doesn't look too bad, however i know how notorious these things need replaced. After some long traveling, it works great until i need to go uphill. I plugged the pcv and checked for suction on the breather hose but it didn't have any. Still wondering if perhaps its a plugged cat converter. Since there is a o2 sensor before and after cat, I thought i already checked pressures at each port and compared but its been awhile and perhaps passed when its still a problem.