2005 5.7l Hemi turbo...

[Technician07]

a few years ago I was looking to boost up my truck with a (then defunct) STS kit that I couldn't find so i set into "doing it myself" .... I can humbly admit that my first attempt was a type of disaster But at least I didn't wind up taking out my engine in the educational journey..

Quick look at what did not work for me:

Turbo size...

I received so much great but at times vague advice from some very accommodating ppl at both local shops and directly from parts suppliers. As an enthusiast with a professional grade education (along with the student loan debt to show for it) I can appreciate that they are in the game to make a living and not give away any proprietary information or incite a lawsuit so I did with it what I could.
SO..from my own learnings and what I was advised to go with, a smaller exhaust housing (.68A/R) and a smaller compressor wheel (72mm) was selected. Without going into any deep discussion as to the fluid dynamics of why said turbo combination was chosen I leave it at saying.... the turbo, being rear mounted, gets less thermal energy from the engine than it would if it was mounted closer to it (ie in the engine bay)

I used this turbo..TRB-T72-P68-RR that i purchased direct from cxracing
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NO, I wont be brand ambassadoring for CXRacing..... But I will speak to my personal experience with the items I ordered from there. The turbo worked flawlessly until I destroyed it with two classic first timer mistakes that I humbly share with you as a cautionary tale.
ONE: COMPRESSOR SURGE/OSCILLATION : I simply had the wastegate installed backward! So there was no way to control the speed of the turbo and therefore boost. I lucky didn't blow up my **** as the manifold pressure hit over 10psi a few times!!! Also the vac source I used for the blowoff valve turned out to be too weak to allow the valve to cycle effectively and boost pressure was not effectively relieved.
TWO: CLOSED LOOP TURBO OIL SYSTEM: Just don't even attempt to try it! There is NO NEED to reinvent the wheel here truss me. The tried and true method of supplying the turbo with oil from the engine still works! And before someone chimes in about line length and pressure drops, I want to ask two things.. Have you ever seen an remote oil cooler kit that comes with a required oil pump? What about all those sick japanese/euro whips that have those super long oil lines going off to oversized externally mounted oil coolers?

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So YA, DON'T do this! The oil cooler for the turbo is total overkill and hurting more than its helping as well as being a huge restriction of flow in the system... and not in a good way. I will go more into what I did that worked out for me later..


WHY MY FIRST SETUP DIDN'T FLY....

The continuous compressor surge events put A LOT of additional stress on the turbocharger shaft combined the poor oiling, and over a short period of time (3months) took out the turbo... I finally lost all oiling while in bumper to bumper construction traffic with zero places to pull off to. By the time i made it home there was oil leaking from both the compressor and turbine housings of the turbo and enough play had developed in the shaft that the impeller blades were juuuuuust starting to contact the housing! The turbo was the wrong size for the application as far as I drive.. .68A/R is more suitable for a twin turbo application and one under the hood at that. The boost came on waaay too early and did not compliment the transmission shift points at all. It was impossible to drive on the highway using cruise control. EVERY hill, the RPMs would shoot up and the rear would step out.. the same if you pulled out to pass. this made the truck difficult to control on provincial gravel roads so it would have been suicide in the winter so i rigged all the turbo stuff out

 

[Brando_SLT]

Hot damn... so I have questions:

1. Are you plumbing both exhaust manifolds to the single turbo? Or will you be running two turbos?
   • And why/what are the advantages?
2. Why did you choose this style compressor over a variable-vane (variable geometry) turbo?
3. Are you using the stock intake manifold? If so, what is it rated to?
   
4. Will you be using an intercooler?
5. Where did you tap-in to the supply feed? Will you be using a scavenge pump?
6. Tuning and components - what type of engine management software are you using?
7. Follow-up question: Why just oil cooled and not both oil/water cooled?

 

[Technician07]

Lessons learned

TURBO:
Some time passed since having access to a "shop" to do truck stuff, I had leave to think about how to revisit boosting my truck. The placement of the turbo was something that got a lot of thought. I found having the turbo underneath the truck meant having to stop and clean the filter... Yes, actually feel a loss in power and have to pull over and "service" the filter! My folks live 8kms in down a county road thass dusty anytime its dry so I discovered this right away and also couldn't drive my truck to work right to the camps some times which was super annoying come time for days off I still didn't want to put the turbo under the hood so that left the box as the installation area.

TURBO OILING:
I want to re-say DO NOT bother with trying to do a closed loop turbo oil system. If i wanted to spend the money when I do this again on a newer truck, I would use one of the comp turbo unit what require no external lubrication and can be mounted in any orientation that are available today in lieu of a standard journal bearing unit. But this is still just daily driver stuff so. The hemi block has two ports were one can access the oil cct. One comes straight off the oil pump gallery that feeds INTO the filter, the other is off the gallery that comes OUT of the filter.
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INTAKE SYSTEM:
Everything was crammed under the hood in such a way that i couldn't run the inner fender liner..
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and the intercooler was very close to the front tire..
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So in keeping with the "party in the back theme" I set about mounting EVERYTHING needed to boost my rig in the box of the truck as much as possible. After much thought i came up with this rough configuration..

View media item 29393
What you are looking at is a "modified" truck tool box with the water injection res+ pump, oil scavenge and return pumps, air bag compressor, liquid to air intercooler and wastegate control valve all mounted in there. Going into how I made that is beyond the scope of this thread and I was using what was available to me at the time so my next system will be packaged a lot differently.

 

[Technician07]

Hot damn... so I have questions:

1. Are you plumbing both exhaust manifolds to the single turbo? Or will you be running two turbos?
   • And why/what are the advantages?
2. Why did you choose this style compressor over a variable-vane (variable geometry) turbo?
3. Are you using the stock intake manifold? If so, what is it rated to?
   
4. Will you be using an intercooler?
5. Where did you tap-in to the supply feed? Will you be using a scavenge pump?
6. Tuning and components - what type of engine management software are you using?
7. Follow-up question: Why just oil cooled and not both oil/water cooled?

By all means with the questions Brando...

1: Not touching the exhaust manifolds__single turbo__less fabrication=less work
2: Do you know how much a new in the box variable vane turbo is? Or how to "wire up" the "controller" for such a thing? This is just a humble project for my rig rocket, not a design thesis level event
3: Stock intake manifold__ its of fairly thick thermoset plastic construction and Im not planning on ever running more than 10 psi. But just because you asked I did block it off to hold 60 psi over lunch and nothing exciting happened so i think it will be fine for my application
4: Yes, and water/methanol injection because pump gas
5: I go into this in my previous post__ yes a scavenge pump will be used for sure
6: Stock ecm with a Diablosport Intune controller
7: As a person that has worked with engines professionally for 11 years, I can say I have only ever seen both water and oil cooling on a turbocharger in a high load, constant rpm stationary application where the turbo would have otherwise gotten hot enough to change dimensions. And I think there are some racing applications as well like group B levels but I can't say I've seen it on a OEM engine I've personally come across either. In my application the turbo is going to be exposed to the open air so it will have unlimited radiation potential cooling wise. Also, a "cold" turbo does not spool well.

 

[crash68]

This is quite the project you have going, always neat to read about projects like this.

7: As a person that has worked with engines professionally for 11 years, I can say I have only ever seen both water and oil cooling on a turbocharger in a high load, constant rpm stationary application where the turbo would have otherwise gotten hot enough to change dimensions. And I think there are some racing applications as well like group B levels but I can't say I've seen it on a OEM engine I've personally come across either.

The OEM turbo on the EcoDiesel aside from the typical oil lubed/cooled bearings also has engine coolant piped to it for cooling also. If I'm not understanding what you meant by a turbo that's water and oil cooler please correct me.

 

[Technician07]

THE LECTRIKS

The very reason I didn't go with a stand alone or piggy back ECU setup is I am trying to keep things as stock as possible out of simplicity for a daily driver. To that end EVERY component that is now in my truck what it didn't have in it when it left the factory that needs power to function is on a totally separate switched and fused power circuit. The stereo is also on an isolated power circuit. This was done so I have zero chance of electrical interference with the OEM ECU or electrical system in general. Each system has a fused lead directly off the battery with appropriate sized wire, power+ground distribution blocks and relays activated by switched power. This way all my extra stuff is off during cranking without having to remember to turn anything off and saves dead battery conditions due to leaving anything on... lessons from the past.

View media item 29399
I'm still amazed this pile of wires didn't catch fire! Ok well not really, it was "done with the spirit of proper techniques" but was not done well lol

View media item 29400
In this pic, you can see i made an actual "wiring harness" that connects to all the components outside the cab and one that goes to all the control modules and gauges. There are separate relays for each component (no sharing) and each is connected to its own ports in the power and ground distribution. One relay gets trigger power from the switched 12v+ wire on the ignition cct then energizes the rest of the relays and does not power any component. Each relay is fused (15 or 20 amp). The "loom" is partly covered so that its a single "wire" where passed from inside the cab to the box and also under the dash to the gauge/control cluster. I bench tested everything with a atv battery which was super handy for trouble shooting 12v power issues. I recommend you keep a charged one handy when you are trying to wire any 12v auto stuff up.

 

[Technician07]

This is quite the project you have going, always neat to read about projects like this.


The OEM turbo on the EcoDiesel aside from the typical oil lubed/cooled bearings also has engine coolant piped to it for cooling also. If I'm not understanding what you meant by a turbo that's water and oil cooler please correct me.

Yes, I guess you could say this is what I am talking about lol...

That engine JUST came out not a few months ago so I have yet to come across a blown one needing a rebuild so could get a more detailed look at the package.Diesel vs Gasoline>>> totally different combustion temperatures involved as well and the packaging of the eco diesel is VERY compact... Not much opportunity for passive cooling so its not "crazy" the turbo would require supplemental cooling..

I guess my point is that turbo setups that require water+oil cooling are not very common in bespoke aftermarket applications in my experience

 

[Technician07]

a couple pics of the turbo carnage lol



View media item 29413
you can clearly see where the inducer has touched the compressor housing!

View media item 29414
oil coming out of the turbine housing.....not cool

 

[ST-8]

Idk if it’s my side, but I can’t open any of the pictures

 

[LoneWolf3574]

Idk if it’s my side, but I can’t open any of the pictures

Ditto

 

[Technician07]

PARTY IN THE BACK!

:TURBO:

I was just about to order another cxracing turbo when Performance world dropped their own line of turbos! I've had nothing but good times with it since..Zero issues.. and mine is out fully exposed too. So should you decide to pick one up (i recommend it highly) know that they durable!
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After deciding on a pedestal style mounting for the turbo next was how to build it?? I had a good condition scrap turbo that was fairly close in dimensions so I used it to mock up the pedestal.. I did have to use the new turbo to get the final fitment right but it came with some pretty heavy duty plugs (and sealed in a proper antirust bag!)for every orifice which were left in place while i messed around with it.

I'm not going to going into any detail regarding the fabrication unless I get asked but here are some shots of the pedestal coming together, install and how it sits rn in my truck..
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having access to an actual exhaust bending machine will make doing this MUCH easier!
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annnnd there is NO going back from moves like this so you wanna be sure before you fire up the hole saw lol!
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I did run into two small problems while modifying the compressor housing..
1: I managed to strip the threads in one of the holes...which I then had to helicoil
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2: When i was clocking the compressor housing to line up with the j tube into the intercooler, one of the securing tabs was in the way preventing achieving the desired 90deg angle... this was cured by some slight grinding.
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Also, when I first took the compressor housing off, there was a bead of red RTV high temp sealant on there as you can see in the picture. When i re assembled the turbo, I used Aviation sealant and was called out by performance world directly as "too aggressive for the application" It has not caused me any issues.. but it was certainly not necessary to use the hi spec stuff
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By modify the compressor housing, I mean installing a fitting as part of the boost control system. I use DOT airline fittings everywhere I could on my build..
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:WASTEGATE:
Although the cxracing wategate came with weld-on flanges, I highly recommend upgrading to an aftermarket flange such as the Vibrant performance one. It is slightly thicker and the quality of the material is certainly better which makes it easier to weld good and wont instantly start rusting away. It held the cxracing valve seat no problem too
View media item 29420
Unless you work at a machine shop that does engines, you probably wont have access to the equipment to do this next bit... Next time round I will just go with a higher quality unit to begin with and eliminate the need for "improving" anything but its what I had at the time..

View media item 29430This is the 38mm wastegate from cxracing with a 5psi spring installed. I ground the valve seat to 44º and the valve face to 45º to ensure a good seal. I also polished the valve stem as much as it could be polished and gently reamed the bore for smooth cycling. Out of the box you could feel some roughness when you cycled it by hand without the spring installed.


So here it is as it sits today (literally just went out rn to snap these)
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[Technician07]

Idk if it’s my side, but I can’t open any of the pictures

Ditto

my bad, buttons were clicked in error

 

[G-Ride990]

This is an awesome project! Keep the pics coming!

 

[ST-8]

Not sure how I would feel cutting a hole in my bed(did it on a prior truck and regretted it lol) but I can dig this, looking forward to the progress. I’d love to go some sort of F/I one day.

 

[Technician07]

View media item 29438

 

[Technician07]

PUMPING OIL TO & BACK UP FROM WHAT MAKES THE JAM


With lessons learned from the first go around, the oiling of the turbo was an area I really gave some deep thought. In the end, I did EXACTLY what the "manufactures recommendations" said to do despite not fully understanding the why in some cases.. I figured, they are making and selling this stuff so their advice should be gospel‍

When it came to the plumbing for this build I committed to using AN fittings EVERYWHERE reasonable. Not out of vanity (tho i will admit it started out that way) but for solid peace of mind. This is really my daily rig rocket after all.. I rip over to buddy's for a ting, haul the quad to mum and dads for the weekend, On the highway rolling 5 hrs to work in January, summer rush hour traffic, let my brother in-law use it, etc... an actual daily. So I didn't want to be concerned with things coming loose or leaking in the slightest. I used fittings from Redhorse Performance basically anywhere the fitting was close enough a guy could see the sweet laser etched logo and everywhere else I used Performance World brand fittings from JBs Power Center and some from a local race team shop (ProWest Motorsports) what has their own line of AN fittings too. I can report all the fittings were superior in every way to amazon/ebay brands which may look ok when you first get them out of a dusty mail pouch, but when you put them on a table side by side with the aforementioned brands they look rather shabby.

**I also want to point out here that, imo, the Redhorse Performance, Performance World and ProWest Motorsports brand of fittings are not the same caliber as brands like Earls, Russel or Pegasus which are bespoke F1 pure Race levels of componentry**

View media item 29443for scale, the box the turbo came in is only slightly larger than this one full of all the additional fittings that were needed for this build..


GETTING OIL TO THE TURBO:

As I mentioned previously, there are two oil gallery ports on the side of the engine block which come straight off the oil pump and oil filter. Using the port that comes off the oil filter before the main gallery was a no brainer for my setup since the oil supplying the turbo from this port will be coming directly from the installed aftermarket oil cooler right before it goes into the main engine oil gallery.

View media item 29388Now in the picture, this set up with the AN fittings and the braided hose looks pretty sweet huh!? Yaaa, don't do this‍! It WILL leak at the fitting in the block!! and probably for two good reasons
A) two different materials with two different rates of thermal expansion (aluminum vs "cast" iron)
B) the threads in the block are recessed about 6mm so by the time the threads of the appropriate sized AN to NPT fitting start engaging you only get a turn or two before you are against the shoulder of the fitting.... no way to tighten the fitting to get a good thread seal

View media item 29387on my truck actual I didn't use this fitting combination exactly and Ill go into why..
This is the way I went with it..
I could not use the black iron elbow as I intended because that would have put the oil supply hose path to the back hose right onto the exhaust manifold. Not wanting to buy any heat shielding I just did something else...
View media item 29463I have a black iron straight pipe from any hardware store what is threaded and loctited into the block>>>black iron coupler>>>that blue NPT-AN fitting is then threaded into this coupler>>> 90ºelbow swivel pushlock fitting>>>3/8" push lock hose action>>>push lock 90º elbow fitting>>>AN-NPT >>>into the turbo.
That red hose on top of the turbo oil supply fittings is there to protect the trans cooler hardlines from rubbing.

After opening up that box of fittings I brought home from JB's Power center, I realized that the braided hoses to go betwixt all of them was gonna be spesive af. PERFORMANCE WORLD to the rescue again! They have a line of hose that goes with their lesser series push lock fittings so I was able to make some exchanges and save a worthwhile amt of money. I know, just the sound of using fittings with no hose clamps seems crazy BUT that's exactly what they are sold as doing. The fittings and the hose that goes with them are less than the full swivels and braided setup. Why have braided lines running where they will never be seen?‍ plus my truck it no show pony lol. I've used the push on fittings and push lock hose

View media item 29461even on the fitting at the end of the hose what supplies oil to the turbo
Never had an issue. I did in some cases use a nice swivel on one end of a hose to make installing it easier.like at the block end of said turbo supply line So while the "fancy" hose and fittings had their place on my build they simply were not required for the entire application.

GETTING OIL FROM THE TURBO:


I was going to run two pumps and a breather tank but then when it came to actually doing it I both didn't want to do all the extra plumbing and it felt way too over kill. So post deciding to run a single pump I still mounted it in the tool box with the other components. this didn't work ill explain later

View media item 29441View media item 29447THIS is the exact pump I used. Actually i was going to use two lol.see electrical pic I ordered it off ebay and at the time it was around $CAD175 w/shipping and then when I ordered a second one some time later it was less..


View media item 29444View media item 29445I also have one of these as my now spare unit. Other than the colors they have no difference in quality except this one was ever slightly noisier than the pump above WHILE moving fluid so that's why its the back up.


here is a RANDOM one I quickly just found for context
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Electr...509940&hash=item4169848bd2:g:ULQAAOSwZQxW4zp7

This is not one of the sellers I used nor am I saying "buy THIS one from THIS link" I expect anyone would do their own due diligence after entering "turbo oil scavenge pump"
in the search field. That I highly recommend one do. As a mechanical designer, when selecting certain parts, specifically pumps what circulate viscous fluids at high temp well, I typically look to German, Japanese or Taiwanese manufactures first...given the overall design. The ebay search result WILL show many pumps of this illk buuut also their high quality price. Again not wanting to re invent the wheel I just looked for what was "closest" to what the STS kit seemed to be using. So I've ordered 4 different of these budget gear type pumps for this build. I dropped the first while i was installing it which ****** it.. the second from a different seller I took apart and...lets just say there is no point to doing that other than satisfying your curiosity or to now have a mock up only pump The two I have now are from different sellers.. all 4 seem to be of similar albeit simple design and construction quality and materials. There was a noticeable difference in pump noise while running them dry particularly the one I took apart... At the end of the day that will be your main thing to consider at the end of the day. How quiet you want to run.. The quieter the pump, the more expensive it going to be. facts. And mine noisy af. I can hear it when I'm stopped idling a little bit, but that's also good because you will know right away if its not running and you have a major problem! Certainly you can hear it running from outside the vehicle.. I didn't know about the reliability of my ebay part so in truth I drove around with the spare pump just in case it ever crapped out on me for probably 8 months. I was especially concerned with that happening during winter. Comming up on a year now and I'm wishing I saved my money on that second pump..‍ No issues so far

(cont...)

 

[Technician07]

View media item 29449 Getting to oil to the pump from the turbo was supposed to be as easy as tapping into the drain -10AN fitting I made and running some recommended 5/8 hose over to a 90º elbow with a tiny 4" riser on it to the pump but NO. The pump was not having it. It sounded like I was pumping rocks cavitation and I knew that was not going to do. Book learning tells us to mount the pump below the reservoir or source of fluid but i really didn't think it would really be an issue if the pump was essentially at the same height of the turbo.. it was. So I had to move it. In doing so it did clean up something I was not really satisfied with, the turbo drain hose running across the box in plain sight. I just didn't look right. After drilling another hole in the box so I could run the drain hose from the turbo underneath the box to the pump, now moved to the underside of the truck box in a spot close enough to the original hole for the turbo oil return line to the engine so that the connector from the wiring harness would reach it without modification. Its only a few inches lower than the turbo now but the move made a big difference in pump performance. I still do get a ping of cavitation now and then but only at idle prob due to less oil flow with less engine speed. I did think of using a smaller return line than the drain, because I thought this may happen, in hopes to eliminate/negate this condition but chose to "follow the suppliers recommendations to the letter" and use the same diameter hose for the oil return line to the engine before and after the pump.
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Now where to return the oil to?

I initially, I was just going to tap into the oil pan as the tried and true method using a bulkhead style fitting to save be having to do any welding on the oil pan..
View media item 29440But I also didn't want to have to pull the oil pan because it doesn't just drop out of there so I thought of putting it in one of the valve covers but there was not enough clearance from the valve train to do so. A random comment from a customer about something he saw for sale once led to the fitting being installed into the oil filler cap as you see below
View media item 29450View media item 29451View media item 29452I certainly used a swivel fitting on the return hose end of the oil return hose so I could get the cap off for normal use without a fuss. I also wired the scavenge pump in such a way that its running as long as the key is in the run position and also cannot be energized any other way.

Does it work? Why yes it does..It returns the oil at a constant drizzle while the engine is running at idle. Its not spraying out wildly or coming out aerated. I could probably wire in a rheostat and slow down the pump too since its obviously more pump flow than is needed for the application. The Redhorse Performance fittings were the most expensive but they also had the largest selection of sizes esp bendwise in ALL of their colors and even fittings for other automotive applications such as power steering. They look sweet and up close the manufacturing is beautiful if you're into that sort of thing..

View media item 29460View media item 29459Something to point out tho, the Redhorse Performance fittings that have been exposed to direct sunlight constantly have faded to a light bronze
View media item 29462the Performance World ones have a more matte anodizing on them and have not yet showed any signs of fade. Ill finish by saying the obvious. Going all AN fittings was NOT cheap to do. So if you wind up with spare/extra fittings as time goes by, do take care of them, buy and use AN wrenches on them and they can be re used on several builds

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Well documented build... I'm not a turbo guy, but I like what you have done..

 

[Technician07]

MAKING COLD THE AIR FOR INTAKE..

Since I already charge air cooing components from my previous run at doing this I decided to just revise their configuration.

For the charge air cooling components, I used stuff from CX racing. I actually ordered one of their kits https://www.cxracing.com/liquid-to-air-intercooler-pump/HE001-AWIC04-WP-50-04 but was able to call them and have the intercooler it came with swapped with for this one
https://www.cxracing.com/liquid-to-...ercooler-pump-water-to-air-intercooler/AWIC18
as it would fit my application better. I'm not sure how much more or less it was but cx racing was happy to accomodate me and I'm sure they will hook you up to.

The intercooler and heat exchanger I got in the mail were very shiny and solid, has a bit of weight to them and look pretty well made.

The system also came with an intercooler pump that was able to be threaded directly into the intercooler core which is VERY handy. I did use this pump at first but a couple of mishandlings and the power wires were coming out of the housing eventually breaking right off. With no way to open the pump housing to get to the wires without destroying the pump, I had no choice but to order another pump. For a while I couldn't order the same pump from cx racing as it was back ordered for ever and I didn't want to use one of the scavenge pumps simply because of the noise they make when running, So I started looking at what vehicles came with FI engine systems that use a liquid to air charge air cooling strategy and after a LOT of looking around I settled on using the pump you see below that is the intercooler pump from a bi-turbo mercedes apparently.. I used this pump because 1)it was cheaper than buying another cx racing unit 2) it was the design/orientation/size I wanted for my designs 3)it was one that had an image associated with the correct part number that i could see online 4) made in Taiwan

This pump was a bit of a challenge to get.. As anyone reading this knows, unless you have a VIN number AND an EXACT part number when you call a parts desk GOOD LUCK figuring anything out on the phone!! You can get a lot of part numbers with real pics on rock auto FYI! so it was a bit of a back and forth to get but not impossible to find for your build.

View media item 29392This is how the old charge air cooling set up looked under the hood...
Vs. the set up now.

MUCH less cramped! as the intercooler is now in the tool box in the
rear with the rest of the add on components.
Where the cx racing intercooler pump threaded into the ****, the new pump did not. I had already built the wiring harness to accommodate for the cx racing pump figuring that by the time I got round to installing all this into my rig that it would be avail...IT WAS NOT! So not wanting to re wire anything I just hung the new pump right where you see it using the hose. It look strange but its not hurting anything and the hose is strong enough to single line lift a fat guy so I'm not concerned about a small pump hanging from a 3" section instead of using the supplied mounting bracket which actually would have been a pain to do on my setup as it was not designed in consideration of a pump that didn't thread into the intercooler. The pump is whisper quiet with practically no vibration.
I used this hose from greenlinehttps://www.greenlinehose.com/buy/p...ies/General-Automotive-Service-Hose/dept-1A1N everywhere on my build with the exception of for the oil cooler cct and the drain hose from the turbo where I used this performance world stuffhttp://www.performance-world.com/Twist-Lok-Hose-p/300010.htm
The red hose is also from greenline and is regular heater hosehttps://www.greenlinehose.com/buy/p...o-Truck-Hose-Assemblies/Heater-Hose/dept-1A1Q. I only used it because it was in the clearance pile when I went to buy hose one day for too good of a price to pass up! its low pressure rated (>50psi) which will do for how I'm using it. I did want to get the black hose to match the rest but hese days yon can get all manor of hose covers (sleeve) materials to customize the look for your own designs same as I did. The hose is the same diameter (5/8") throughout the intercooler heat exchanger system with-10AN push loc fittings (mostly).

Except right here where you can see I did not use AN fittings.. the reason for this was due to the threads of these ports being damaged from previous use of the incorrect AN fittings. I chased the threads as best I could and even then the proper thing to do would have been to machine the holes and cut new threads... but that was more than I wanted to do time wise. I simply used a ABS plumbing elbow and a **** load of avation gasket on one the port threads and a brass coupler with lots of thread sealant on the other.. I also didn't overly tighten either....and still holding..

CONT..

 

[Technician07]

Well documented build... I'm not a turbo guy, but I like what you have done..

thanks guy, much appreciated. Are your diesels non turbo as well? My old man has an old school 12v non turbo that still has all the jam!

if I was going to do a N/A engine it would have to be minimal electronics carb job all the way!