2010 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi

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Jackhowell

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2010
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5.7 hemi
I just bought this Totalled 2010 dodge ram 1500 i have been messing with it cant figure out how to get it to start when i turn the key no dashlights pop up wont crank and the windows dont roll up the headlight turns on a couple fuses are hot It was hit on the drivers side front fender when i plug into it and turn the key to on it says turn the ignition to the on position any advice has anybody had one similar?
 

Jim BB

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2019 Ram 1500 classic Express
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Hemi 5.7L
so it sounds like it may be the fuse panel there is a name for it but i forget it ! lol
it may be damaged
Pictures of the damage would be good and a possible help
 
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Jackhowell

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It doesnt really look damaged it was shoved over it the accident i didnt see any wires that looked like they got cut
 

csuder99

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Check if the blade key fits the doors, if they gave you the wrong key nothing will come alive.
 

jawzs2

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Here's a link to a 2009 Ram 1500 service manual that has service procedures and more importantly, the wiring diagrams, it should help, I use it for my 2010 1500 and my son's 2012 2500 and haven't found any appreciable differences so far, some wire color differences on his, but not many. Use MS Edge to open, but use the IE mode extension need that to get it to work correctly. It does take a little bit of tweaking to get it to work. May need to copy the link and paste it in a new window to download

http://mcfail.net/dt/Service manual.zip



 

Jim BB

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That took a good hit on the Left corner!
i would be looking at the fuse panel really closely pull it out and look under it make sure no pinched wires or broken connectors then move to the fuses and relays making sure they are good and powered then go to wiring harness stripping the wrap frome the wires and inpect for even the most minor damage !
 

Jeepwalker

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2012 Reg Cab, 4x4
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5.7 Hemi
Almost sounds like a ground issue, or power. These trucks act wierd when the battery connections aren't strong. So start there. I would have a load test performed on the battery to make sure it's really good ....if you haven't done that yet. Autozone can do it, or maybe you have a load tester. A "maybe" battery won't do the trick. There are a ton of no-start issues on the forum where owners tried various solutions only to find out it was battery/connections related. There is a major ground underneath the structure in front of the driver's wheel (above the top of the tire), near the impact zone. That should be real clean. And of course the battery cable ends and engine grounds. I'm stating the obvious, and Im sure you know that, but it's worth stating given how many posts come up about it.

Secondly, (I'm just throwing ideas out here), the TIPM (main computer) is beneath the plastic fuse panel box. Not far from the point of impact. There are a couple large connectors which go to it. You may want to disconnect it, remove it, and inspect the computer solder connections with a magnifying glass. It's entirely possible that the impact caused a broken solder joint at a wire terminal (bad solder joint). All it takes is a hairline crack which if was the case could be resoldered. And then there's the whole fuel pump relay issue that was a known issue on the pre 2013 trucks. Also relays inside the fuse panel should be checked for power (maybe do that first before removing the TIPM). Being a 2010 who knows on the relays?? Obviously ensure all the fuses are good and properly seated.

Then there's the Win Module which is essentially the key switch. But there's a module portion behind the dash with circuits. There are well-documented sets of issues associated with that. There are a good number of Youtube videos on Ram and Chrysler Win modules and how to DIY them back to working order again. Search that out. And this link below for the TIPM fuel pump relay. You can buy a new relay for like $8-10 and solder it on the board yourself too. Buy them at Amazon or Ebay.

Good luck. Let us know what the solution turns out to be.
 
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Jeepwalker

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Also, IDK if this is an issue ....but on some older Chrysler/Jeep products (also occurs with some other makes too), if the security was activated with the fob, then the battery went dead. If a guy opened the car/vehicle with the key and replaced or recharged the battery, the vehicle 'can' in some cases still think it's being tampered with (because the computer didn't register it was unlocked with the key). It then activates a no-start sequence to thwart thieves. On said vehicles, there's a specific procedure then to de-activate the security system. If I recall, it has to do with inserting the key in the door and turning the lock either way in a specific pattern. Then lock and unlock the vehicle. The idea being only a legitimate owner would have the key.

I had that happen to me one time. I scratched my head for a while till I happened upon that in an internet search. Since I haven't had to deal with it on Rams, I'm not sure if or how this could factor in with your Ram ....if at all. Maybe it's not even an issue on Rams (someone chime in??). It's one of those not-so-obvious things to at least know about when working on cars/trucks.
 
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Jackhowell

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2010
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5.7 hemi
Almost sounds like a ground issue, or power. These trucks act wierd when the battery connections aren't strong. So start there. I would have a load test performed on the battery to make sure it's really good ....if you haven't done that yet. Autozone can do it, or maybe you have a load tester. A "maybe" battery won't do the trick. There are a ton of no-start issues on the forum where owners tried various solutions only to find out it was battery/connections related. There is a major ground underneath the structure in front of the driver's wheel (above the top of the tire), near the impact zone. That should be real clean. And of course the battery cable ends and engine grounds. I'm stating the obvious, and Im sure you know that, but it's worth stating given how many posts come up about it.

Secondly, (I'm just throwing ideas out here), the TIPM (main computer) is beneath the plastic fuse panel box. Not far from the point of impact. There are a couple large connectors which go to it. You may want to disconnect it, remove it, and inspect the computer solder connections with a magnifying glass. It's entirely possible that the impact caused a broken solder joint at a wire terminal (bad solder joint). All it takes is a hairline crack which if was the case could be resoldered. And then there's the whole fuel pump relay issue that was a known issue on the pre 2013 trucks. Also relays inside the fuse panel should be checked for power (maybe do that first before removing the TIPM). Being a 2010 who knows on the relays?? Obviously ensure all the fuses are good and properly seated.

Then there's the Win Module which is essentially the key switch. But there's a module portion behind the dash with circuits. There are well-documented sets of issues associated with that. There are a good number of Youtube videos on Ram and Chrysler Win modules and how to DIY them back to working order again. Search that out. And this link below for the TIPM fuel pump relay. You can buy a new relay for like $8-10 and solder it on the board yourself too. Buy them at Amazon or Ebay.

Good luck. Let us know what the solution turns out to be.
I bought a new battery for it then hooked up a jumper cable to the starter it cranked but wouldnt fire ill look at all of that tomorrow the fuses all looked good and tested good ill let you know how it goes
 
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Jackhowell

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5.7 hemi
Fuse box is apart seems to be ok it has power to the fusebox seat and headlight but nowhere else
 
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