2011 Ram 1500 5.7 Transmission Fuild Change?

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jws123

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I have had my 2011 ram 5.7 4x4 big horn with 220k for 5 years now by far best truck I have ever owned I bought it at 150k with the usual bad cam been running it ever since. This is my daily driver and I haul my car trailer often honestly I am suprised it has held up this long. Recently I am starting to notice it Sliding/slightly slipping into gears sometimes a hard shift into second if I am really on it . Also I have a delayed shift into reverse here and there if its cold this is the orig trans I personally have never changed the filter/trans fluid. It now is starting to look a little dark/burnt not terrible but not good. I am debating on dropping the pan changing filter ect but because its a high mileage trans not sure if i should. I have seen many people change fluid on high mileage transmissions and 20 miles down the road it stops moving lol its a real gamble. What do you guys think should I just keep running it til it blows maybe put a additive in it? or change the fluid now and take a chance...
 
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Burla

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I have had autorx actually fix a sticking transmission, long ass story but the guy I sold it too reached out to tell me it was the best vehicle he ever owned, however it was sticky clutch packs and with the rfe those aren't a usual suspect. The usual suspect for us is a leaky valve body, if you love the truck considering buy a valve body, dropping pan, doing everything filters and fluid (redline c+), and pop in a vb. If it were me, I'd risk it. I wouldnt flush, but drop pan and do filters, which in my rfe took 8 quarts, I let it drain warm for hours, put orange gasket maker on then let it sit overnight before adding fluid. You may or may not need a flash, you will know if you are stuck in 4th after.
 

Jeepwalker

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I agree with the above, but here's the deal on Trans fluid as I've read: The urban bar-stool myth goes something like, "If you've never changed tranny fluid, and your vehicle is high mile, yer better off leaving it bc new fluid is going to cause caked on sludge inside your tranny to go all over the place and kill it." Tranny books written by people very knowledgeable in the transmission field from the engineering side to the repair side, that I've read indicate that's bunk. A transmission will almost always benefit by a change of new fluid. Transmissions aren't like engines where they get a lot of sludge build-up inside. New fluid w/o suspended particles will have better lubricity and so fourth. And, the myth stems from owners in a situation such as yourself who notice transmission problems change fluid on an aged transmission which 'might' be at the very end of it's life ...sort of like Aaron Rodgers throwing a Hail-Mary pass at the end of a football game. (Yeah, sometimes he scores, but usually he doesn't!!). But we don't know the integrity of your truck's clutch friction material and so fourth. Obviously they're not new, but they might have enough life to go another ...bunch of miles (who knows?).

The only caviet to this is, making sure to use the 'right' fluid ...and you may need to add or adjust anti-shudder agent levels to it afterwards if you notice shuddering. If it does shudder, don't freak out, older tranny's may need a little more anti-shudder additive. And it takes a bit for it to work (not like you add a couple oz and the shudder's instantly gone ..not always the case -- drive it 50 miles). I'd stick to Mopar fluid myself. Small town Chrysler parts departments will often sell tranny fluid out of their 'bulk' barrel for a lot less than the part's jugs. Bring your own clean milk jugs. There are two dealers around here which do that. Don't bother asking at bigger dealers. You'll get laughed at.

A guy could get ALL the old remaining fluid out of the torque converter. The process looks something like this (do at own risk): Add the new fluid after the tranny pan gasket material had cured as per normal. BEFORE starting the vehicle, disconnect 1 radiator tranny line and attach a new clear hose into a white 5gal bucket (don't use a dark colored one). Over-fill the tranny by a couple 3 qts of proper tranny fluid. Have a helper start the truck while the main technician very closely watches the fluid come out. It comes out fast. The moment the observer sees the transmission fluid in the hose run from dark to 'clear' have the partner in the vehicle shut it off instantly. The process takes about 13-16 seconds and it goes by quick. The technician should replace/tighten the tranny lines, top fluid off to the proper level per the service manual. (the tech may need to shut the tk off halfway and add a couple more qts of trans fluid and quickly resume). The torque converter essentially pumps all it's old dirty fluid into the bucket drawing in new fluid from the transmission. It's Kind of like doing an enima. A person doing such a process has gotta use their smarts. That means, such a person should NOT answer gradma's phone call while fluid is pumping out, go to the bathroom, chase a bee, look at birds, change radio station, pull weeds. Don't decide to drive up to the local bar with the line disconnected and fluid spewing out .... then drive home ...with no fluid in the trans (a guy would need more than a few stiff drinks after that!).

Notice I didn't say "You" in the above description. I'm simply describing a particular process. I'm NOT advocating or suggesting you or any other owner/person should perform this.

Anywhoooo, good luck. Let us know if you get your tranny shifting properly again. It's entirely possible the clutches have about a paper-thin amount of friction material left on them and you are about 400 miles from complete failure and no amount of love or care will restore it. But it may also be the case (probably likely) that by doing a little nip & tuck here and there, you can get another 5 years out of it. That's often the case. No way to know really w/o a teardown.
 
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Jeepwalker

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The other thing it could be on your RFE transmission are weak or faulty transmission shift solenoids. This is common with RFE transmissions if you search on various forums. I have an RFE transmission on a Jeep G/C with the H/O V8. When we bought it, there were SO many check engine lights and other deferred maintenance items I had to sort out. It also shifted slow, slipped in and out of gear and so on. I had assumed there was a good chance we'd need a new tranny. But no. New shift solenoids fixed the issue. But not right away. It took a couple days for the tranny computer to adopt to the new (working) solenoids. That's a job you can do yourself when you have the pan off. You can buy shift solenoid kits on Amazon. It's a real common issue with these RFE trannys.

The best thing before beginning the project would be to go to Autozone or OReilly's and have them scan your truck's tranny computer for codes. There is a special sub-section in the OBD for transmissions ..within the scanner. And if their scanner will do it, also have them run through the scanner's (vehicles) solenoid self-check. The scanner will actuate each solenoid a couple times and give you a report if any fail. Lot cheaper than a new tranny if that turns out to be an issue.

Hope it helps.
 

Burla

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Solenoid with Valve body always a good idea, usually solenoid will be more pronounced issue, but another possible issue and you don't want a new VB with an old solenoid, especially with fluid going bad.
 
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jws123

jws123

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The other thing it could be on your RFE transmission are weak or faulty transmission shift solenoids. This is common with RFE transmissions if you search on various forums. I have an RFE transmission on a Jeep G/C with the H/O V8. When we bought it, there were SO many check engine lights and other deferred maintenance items I had to sort out. It also shifted slow, slipped in and out of gear and so on. I had assumed there was a good chance we'd need a new tranny. But no. New shift solenoids fixed the issue. But not right away. It took a couple days for the tranny computer to adopt to the new (working) solenoids. That's a job you can do yourself when you have the pan off. You can buy shift solenoid kits on Amazon. It's a real common issue with these RFE trannys.

The best thing before beginning the project would be to go to Autozone or OReilly's and have them scan your truck's tranny computer for codes. There is a special sub-section in the OBD for transmissions ..within the scanner. And if their scanner will do it, also have them run through the scanner's (vehicles) solenoid self-check. The scanner will actuate each solenoid a couple times and give you a report if any fail. Lot cheaper than a new tranny if that turns out to be an issue.

Hope it helps.
Once i get my scanner back I will check for tranny codes aswell as run the solenoid test didnt think ab that tbh I sent my scanner out to matco a month ago to get fixed they are taking their time ahaha.
 

Jeepwalker

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The Matco unit should do it. But if you don't want to wait, Auto'bone' parts store ought to be able to run it through the self-test. Hey, Let know how this journey goes, we can all learn from each other!
 
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jws123

jws123

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Solenoid with Valve body always a good idea, usually solenoid will be more pronounced issue, but another possible issue and you don't want a new VB with an old solenoid, especially with fluid going bad.
good point if i do drop the pan might aswell do a vb and solenoids I see vb on rockauot for about $350. Honestly after thinking about it tho debating If i wanna throw more $ at it or just sell it while it still drives. The truck does need some other stuff 1 rocker and cab corner is rotted out now and one tail pipe rotted off a/c compressor will need to eb replaced to heard it **** out the other day green all over the compressor. Hate to sell this thing tho been a good truck but very tempting I might be looking at a 2014 at a dealership with ab 130k on it needs a cam price is not to bad.
 

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Rockers & cab corners are a sinch to replace for a guy with your skills ....if ya take yer time. But going to a 2014 has it's merits too. Maybe best to put yer time into the cam and let the rockers be the next guy's joyful project. :waytogo:
 

DILLIGAF

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If you buy the 14 and make sure to swap the front diffs before you sell the 11. :anitoof:
 

Burla

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yeah as much as we love our trucks, it doesnt make sense to throw money at something that has the rot. The goof news is people buy used trucks period, they will hold value better then cars.
 
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jws123

jws123

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yeah as much as we love our trucks, it doesnt make sense to throw money at something that has the rot. The goof news is people buy used trucks period, they will hold value better then cars.
I put the truck up for sale today I am going to see what i can get for it if someone offeres decent amount il let it go if not Il keep it. The 2014 turned out to be more of a pos then my current truck lol i do have a silverado i can drive until i find another ram possibly looking at a 2013 ram not sure yet.
 

Big Blue Hemi

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good point if i do drop the pan might aswell do a vb and solenoids I see vb on rockauot for about $350. Honestly after thinking about it tho debating If i wanna throw more $ at it or just sell it while it still drives. The truck does need some other stuff 1 rocker and cab corner is rotted out now and one tail pipe rotted off a/c compressor will need to eb replaced to heard it **** out the other day green all over the compressor. Hate to sell this thing tho been a good truck but very tempting I might be looking at a 2014 at a dealership with ab 130k on it needs a cam price is not to bad.
Sell, sell, sell, sell
 

Bandit1859

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I have had my 2011 ram 5.7 4x4 big horn with 220k for 5 years now by far best truck I have ever owned I bought it at 150k with the usual bad cam been running it ever since. This is my daily driver and I haul my car trailer often honestly I am suprised it has held up this long. Recently I am starting to notice it Sliding/slightly slipping into gears sometimes a hard shift into second if I am really on it . Also I have a delayed shift into reverse here and there if its cold this is the orig trans I personally have never changed the filter/trans fluid. It now is starting to look a little dark/burnt not terrible but not good. I am debating on dropping the pan changing filter ect but because its a high mileage trans not sure if i should. I have seen many people change fluid on high mileage transmissions and 20 miles down the road it stops moving lol its a real gamble. What do you guys think should I just keep running it til it blows maybe put a additive in it? or change the fluid now and take a chance...
I would not the dirt is the only thing making it go. Once that many miles is on it drive it till it goes
 

62Blazer

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Just adding in some comments for people searching this topic in the future. In regards to the comment about how you shouldn't change the fluid on an older vehicle because it will cause the trans to die. There is already a good response to this above, and will say this is one of the biggest urban myths I have heard in the automotive world. A typical example......I have 200k miles on my truck, the transmission is shifting funny, and the fluid looks burnt. I then decide to change the transmission fluid and 100 miles later the transmission dies. Well, obviously it's because I changed the transmission fluid and has nothing to do with the fact it had 200k miles, was already shifting funny, and the fluid was burnt........... I mean, really. It's one of those cases where they got another 100 miles after changing the fluid but it probably would have blown up in 10 miles if they hadn't done anything. I have personally seen this mentality from several people over the years. They never service the trans but wait until it starts having problems and is obviously worn out and ready to completely fail, change the fluid or even have it flushed, and then blame the new trans fluid for it failing shortly afterwards.
 

mdc1990zr1

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Just adding in some comments for people searching this topic in the future. In regards to the comment about how you shouldn't change the fluid on an older vehicle because it will cause the trans to die. There is already a good response to this above, and will say this is one of the biggest urban myths I have heard in the automotive world. A typical example......I have 200k miles on my truck, the transmission is shifting funny, and the fluid looks burnt. I then decide to change the transmission fluid and 100 miles later the transmission dies. Well, obviously it's because I changed the transmission fluid and has nothing to do with the fact it had 200k miles, was already shifting funny, and the fluid was burnt........... I mean, really. It's one of those cases where they got another 100 miles after changing the fluid but it probably would have blown up in 10 miles if they hadn't done anything. I have personally seen this mentality from several people over the years. They never service the trans but wait until it starts having problems and is obviously worn out and ready to completely fail, change the fluid or even have it flushed, and then blame the new trans fluid for it failing shortly afterwards.
Or you can ease into the change by only changing a couple quarts at first, see how it behaves and go from there before changing any more.
 
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jws123

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I am about to look at a 2014 very nice truck with the 8 speed 115k has the dial shifter tho not really a fan of that. I have seen some people have issues with 8 speed and dial shifter getting stuck in park/other gears but dont know how common it is or what the fix usually is. Any paticular issues with a 2014? and how would it be towing with the 8 speed? i have a car trailer i tow few times a month.
 

AlexC2350

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I am about to look at a 2014 very nice truck with the 8 speed 115k has the dial shifter tho not really a fan of that. I have seen some people have issues with 8 speed and dial shifter getting stuck in park/other gears but dont know how common it is or what the fix usually is. Any paticular issues with a 2014? and how would it be towing with the 8 speed? i have a car trailer i tow few times a month.
Between me and my old man we’ve had 5 vehicles with dial shifter. Never once a problem and we both preferred the column shifter prior, and are now fans of the dial shift and ZF transmission, It’s a great transmission. It’s a big part of the reason I’m on my 3rd ram. Super smooth and strong while towing or not.
 
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jws123

jws123

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Bought my new truck today took a while to get paperwork right 2014 5.7 115k 8 speed trans needs your usual cam/lifters. I am going to post a vid tomorrow of how it sounds when a roller breaks off of a lifter for sure going to be doing alot of mods to this truck front end level or lift kit,exhaust ect.
 
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