2011 Ram crank no start

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akos

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hi
have a 2011 ram 5.7 hemi , everything was fine next day wont start just crank. Will start up with starter spray and dies. NO engine codes. I check the fuel pressure where is connected to the rail it was 58 psi which is good so the fuel pump good, try to tipm bypass but same. Took off the rail and the injectors not working at all checked the fuses all seems good. Thats how far i can go to diagnose. Any idea why all the injectors are not working at all? thanks
 

Ken226

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hi
have a 2011 ram 5.7 hemi , everything was fine next day wont start just crank. Will start up with starter spray and dies. NO engine codes. I check the fuel pressure where is connected to the rail it was 58 psi which is good so the fuel pump good, try to tipm bypass but same. Took off the rail and the injectors not working at all checked the fuses all seems good. Thats how far i can go to diagnose. Any idea why all the injectors are not working at all? thanks

Assuming your truck is similar to my 2013, if not some of the below info will be wrong.

With the truck switched ON,

Use a multimeter and check for power on the pink/white wire at the injectors. The ASD relay supplies 12v to each injector via the pk/wh, at the connectors. If there is no power there, then check your ASD relay. If the ASD relay is good, then check the fuse that supplies the ASD relay. I have no idea which one it is on your truck, on my 2013, it's the 25amp fuse#64.

If there is good power at the pk/wh, then your issue is the control side, which is the other wire (different color for each injector). If it's the control side that isn't working, then it's something with the PCM.



If you could find the version of this diagram for your truck, it would be really helpful. As yours and mine are probably different:

1753926994839.png
 
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akos

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thanks, fuse seems good and i switch the relay but nothing change , i think its similar my injector wires are different color but i will check with the multimeter
 

Ken226

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If the injectors have power, then the problem is probably on the PCM control side.

You'll need a bidirectional scan tool to go any further with diagnosing. If you don't have one, you'll probably need to take it to shop.

You can get an OBD Link MX+ and AlfaOBD, which has really good Bidirectional controls.

It will give you the ability to test fire the injectors, to verify that the PCM injector control transistors are still capable of grounding out the control side of the injector circuit.


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Burla

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2010 Hemi Reg Cab 4x4
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If the injectors have power, then the problem is probably on the PCM control side.

You'll need a bidirectional scan tool to go any further with diagnosing. If you don't have one, you'll probably need to take it to shop.

You can get an OBD Link MX+ and AlfaOBD, which has really good Bidirectional controls.

It will give you the ability to test fire the injectors, to verify that the PCM injector control transistors are still capable of grounding out the control side of the injector circuit.


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Was considering launch but maybe not with China compatibility issues lately, so you like this set up? You use with phone? Maybe you don't know, but anyway to get this set up with a Chromebook?
 

Ken226

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Was considering launch but maybe not with China compatibility issues lately, so you like this set up? You use with phone? Maybe you don't know, but anyway to get this set up with a Chromebook?

AlfaOBD and the OBD Link MX+ are the go-to for Ram, Dodge and Jeep. It's the best bang for the buck. It also allows you to change BCM options, amongst other things. Alot of things that scan tools can't do.
But, Alfa only works with Android phones, or Windows computers. I don't think it works with a Chromebook or with Apple stuff.




For general automotive work, I also have a Innova 7111 and a ThinkScan 689BT.

My favorite by far, is the ThinkScan 689BT. It has free updates, forever, is way faster than the Innova, and it works with my FCA AutoAuth account, so I can access the 2018+ secure gateway vehicles (gotta pay FCA 50$ a year), without having to use a bypass module or cable.

I also have some add on modules that integrate and work with the ThinkScan. The ThinkTPMS tool, an Autel borescope and a Launch 02-2 4 channel oscilloscope, all work plug-n-play with the ThinkScan 689bt.



There are quite a few Youtube reviews of it.

I tested out some of the add-on modules in the last few posts in this thread:

 
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Burla

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AlfaOBD and the OBD Link MX+ are the go-to for Ram, Dodge and Jeep. It's the best bang for the buck. It also allows you to change BCM options, amongst other things. Alot of things that scan tools can't do.
But, Alfa only works with Android phones, or Windows computers. I don't think it works with a Chromebook or with Apple stuff.




For general automotive work, I also have a Innova 7111 and a ThinkScan 689BT.

My favorite by far, is the ThinkScan 689BT. It has free updates, forever, is way faster than the Innova, and it works with my FCA AutoAuth account, so I can access the 2018+ secure gateway vehicles (gotta pay FCA 50$ a year), without having to use a bypass module or cable.

I also have some add on modules that integrate and work with the ThinkScan. The ThinkTPMS tool, an Autel borescope and a Launch 02-2 4 channel oscilloscope, all work plug-n-play with the ThinkScan 689bt.



There are quite a few Youtube reviews of it.

I tested out some of the add-on modules in the last few posts in this thread:

ThinkScan 689BT thanks brother, excuse my ignorance buy you need alpha with this? And alpha can be used with this? That looks similar to launch pro, but this is your top choice? sounds like it. I have a 2010, is this overkill if just for one vehicle?
 

Ken226

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ThinkScan 689BT thanks brother, excuse my ignorance buy you need alpha with this? And alpha can be used with this? That looks similar to launch pro, but this is your top choice? sounds like it. I have a 2010, is this overkill if just for one vehicle?

No, Alfa (the software) nd the associated hardware dongle (OBD Link MX+) is a totally separate thing from the ThinkScan. They have nothing whatsoever to do with ThinkScan..

Alfa, your phone and the OBD Link, work as a standalone scan tool, but only on Chrysler, Ram, Jeep products. There are other programs that work with the OBD Link dongle too, like ForScan fo Fords, Jscan, for Jeeps, etc

The ThinkScan 689BT has nothing to do with Alfa. It is a standard, run of the mill, bidirectional scan tool that wokrs with all car brands.

I don't think the689bt is overkill, not even for one vehicle. Especially if you ever anticipate working on other brands.
 
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akos

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yes the rpm moves while cranking, disconneted the fuel line before the rail 58-60 psi, took off the rail try to start to see the fuel but nothing at all
 
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akos

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i dont know much about electrical , so looks like i have to visit a shop, its strange on Saturday working fine , Sunday dead... no codes
 

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Lyle Longboat

2011 Ram 1500 5.7 Sport CC
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Have you checked your battery cables? Could be corroded inside the cable. My 2011 had this issue and I made new cables and ran to the start, alternator, and side wall. Haven’t had this issue with starting.
 

metalchewy

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My 2010 had weak ground to the engine. Replaced the corroded grounding straps at the back o the engine and also ran a negative battery cable to the threaded alternator bolt. Could be another possibility.
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akos

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issue found : TIPM correded and the ASD fuse(20amp) wont get power thats why the injectors down, temporary fixed with a cable connected under the tipm and plugged in together with the fuse, but i will need the tipm.
thanks for help
 

Ken226

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Due to about every other electrical problem thread on this forum being the result of a corroded TIPM, I opted to go the preventative maintenance route.

Several years ago I pulled my TIPM, inspected the connectors, then hit them all with Deoxit contact cleaner, then a light dabbing of dielectric grease.

So far, so good. I reinspect about once a year. As of the last time I looked, around january'ish, they still look new.
 

Zigy

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hi
have a 2011 ram 5.7 hemi , everything was fine next day wont start just crank. Will start up with starter spray and dies. NO engine codes. I check the fuel pressure where is connected to the rail it was 58 psi which is good so the fuel pump good, try to tipm bypass but same. Took off the rail and the injectors not working at all checked the fuses all seems good. Thats how far i can go to diagnose. Any idea why all the injectors are not working at all? thanks
Had the same happen to my 2016 5.7 hemi, looked like a failed fuel pump, had spark, cranked but no start....all it was was a broken ground wire.
 
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