2012 1500 Lifter / Cam info

meubin10

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Hey all. Bit if a long post, but I'm trying to add as much relevant info as possible. I have a 2012 RAM 1500 with the 5.7L HEMI and 129K miles. I bought it used in Sept 2021. I knew ahead of time about the possibility of the lifter/cam failure in particular. I work remotely, and I have to drive very little, and it's mostly within a mile or two of home. I put no more than about 6K miles per year on my vehicles, so I figure it isn't a huge deal if I eventually drop some cash to fix that problem.

My question is, is there really a good explanation of the lifter failure noise? Currently, I hear a very subtle tick at idle when first starting the truck. I have to stick my head in the driver side front wheel well to barely hear it. However, when at operating temp it's very noticeable from anywhere near the front of the truck (can't hear it inside with windows up though). It does indeed sound like a sort of metallic thud, in a stable rhythm, and as far as I can tell it becomes much less noticeable (goes away?) as the engine revs a bit.

No decrease in performance, no check engine light, no apparent misfire, etc. The oil pressure gauge sits around midway at idle, and gets up around the 3/4 mark if revving enough. I did look at the oil (via the dipstick) and I didn't see any obvious signs of bad quality (e.g. normal color, proper level), no metal shavings that I could see.

I'm aware that there is no one definition of a lifter tick noise. Without hearing it, and only my explanation, should I get it to a shop to check lifters ASAP? I'm also aware of the possibility of broken exhaust manifold bolts or whatever it is related to exhaust, but those apparently usually go away as temp goes up? Anything else that I should be aware of, aside from CEL, misfire, worsening noise, etc?
 

Sillygoose

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If it's not misfiring at high rpm don't worry about it. Change your oil/filter regularly and carry on.
 

meubin10

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If it's not misfiring at high rpm don't worry about it. Change your oil/filter regularly and carry on.

Thanks. A lot of people have said that in all my reading, and I figure it's more a nuisance than anything (so long as there aren't other more serious signs). I'll stay on top of oil/filter changes in the meantime.
 

Burla

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Hey all. Bit if a long post, but I'm trying to add as much relevant info as possible. I have a 2012 RAM 1500 with the 5.7L HEMI and 129K miles. I bought it used in Sept 2021. I knew ahead of time about the possibility of the lifter/cam failure in particular. I work remotely, and I have to drive very little, and it's mostly within a mile or two of home. I put no more than about 6K miles per year on my vehicles, so I figure it isn't a huge deal if I eventually drop some cash to fix that problem.

My question is, is there really a good explanation of the lifter failure noise? Currently, I hear a very subtle tick at idle when first starting the truck. I have to stick my head in the driver side front wheel well to barely hear it. However, when at operating temp it's very noticeable from anywhere near the front of the truck (can't hear it inside with windows up though). It does indeed sound like a sort of metallic thud, in a stable rhythm, and as far as I can tell it becomes much less noticeable (goes away?) as the engine revs a bit.

No decrease in performance, no check engine light, no apparent misfire, etc. The oil pressure gauge sits around midway at idle, and gets up around the 3/4 mark if revving enough. I did look at the oil (via the dipstick) and I didn't see any obvious signs of bad quality (e.g. normal color, proper level), no metal shavings that I could see.

I'm aware that there is no one definition of a lifter tick noise. Without hearing it, and only my explanation, should I get it to a shop to check lifters ASAP? I'm also aware of the possibility of broken exhaust manifold bolts or whatever it is related to exhaust, but those apparently usually go away as temp goes up? Anything else that I should be aware of, aside from CEL, misfire, worsening noise, etc?
There are two causes of hemi tick and sometimes you cannot tell the difference in sound, those are exhaust bolts and the other is of course lifters. Ram Forum members have done testing and have found out real good strategies following science and now backed with a decade of results, two products with similar science have rose to the top of alleviating tick. Read these threads...

redline 5w30 and rp filter
https://www.ramforum.com/threads/did-lubegard-biotech-kill-your-hemi-tick.165061/
lubegard biotech and rp filter

When not to use redline

What I'd do first is rule out exhaust bolts, get down there and see if any are loose on manifold, then consider a lubrication strategy or maybe consider one anyhow for protection of that engine. There is a slightly higher risk with high mileage rams, read the when not to use redline thread as well, but I'm not sure I'd agree ignore hemi tick as a real strategy. We just had a guy ignore his hemi tick because he apparently always had it, at 160k miles he needs a new cam. If you read those threads you might come to realize cam failure if not necessarily a foregone conclusion, that you can avoid it by stoping the tick and giving that engine what it needs. Towards end lubegard biotech thread read what the engineer says on what the issue is, the lack of the correct additives. Well, we agree, both of those products have the correct amount of protective additives, and it just so happens both kill ticks at a very high success rate. Lubegard about 50% effective, redline about 80% effective, if you try redline go 5w30 high performance line only, not professional series, and lubegard you can buy and dump in current oil. It can take some different heat cycles and miles to plate, with the way you drive that may be a while. Read the science of molybdenum in engines and the correct type as in these products in heavy amounts.

Just having some fun on a saturday, this would not be scientific evidence, but you can familiarize yourself with these products, and the visual difference between powdered moly and oil soluble moly.
 

meubin10

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I have considered the exhaust manifold problems. Are those more likely to present when cold and go away when warm? Or is it indeed very possible for it to be worse when warm? Never had that issue on a vehicle before and I really haven't found a whole lot about it here in terms of how to distinguish the sound.

I can say that the tick, when it's warm, is obviously prominent on the driver side of the engine, and as far as I can tell it seems to come from lower (e.g. the area where the exhaust manifold is located). If that matters at all. I just can't tell only from listening if it's in that exact location.

I'm not mechanically inclined, other than being capable of routine maintenance such as I can change my own oil. I'll learn, but right now I have questions.
 

meubin10

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I finally have a video to share. At this point it wasn't so pronounced but I had only driven a short distance (about two miles). The lower rhythmic tone is what I hear, though it doesn't seem quite as clear in the video compared to in person. But that noise definitely gets much louder the longer I drive it. It seems to disappear completely (regardless of how loud at idle) once I get on the gas, I think around 1,500 RPM.

Here's a link to the video I have for now: https://youtu.be/r6bH71kcQTM

And if it'll help, I can try to reproduce the louder sound later and upload that as well.
 

RamJam53

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Ok....I have to poke this pig again....I picked up a 2011 Ram 1500 at an internet auction.....ya I know.....********......I have read enough of these posts to realize this is a cronick hemi problem. I went through the whole dance like everyone else and finally pulled the valve cover. I have noticed that in all the other videos I have seen the valves at least move a small amount but my #1 valve spring (it throws a P0301 code) doesn't move at all when cranked over .....zero. I was hoping to get lucky and have it be a broken valve spring.... but no. My question is....is it possible for it to be the MDS lifter is bad on the #1 cylinder and won't lift the push rod at all? Like I said there is zero valve movement when cranked. When driving it it really bucks when the torque converter locks up under light throttle.......seems like it is more than one cylinder would do......back off and stomp on it and it seems to smooth out? Just asking what others think if I have to I may just start with that head and check the #1 lifter before I tear the rest of the top end off.......one last thing when I let off gas like coming off the Interstate and coast to slow down....when I go to pick up the gas again sometimes I have to keep pushing the throttle down to maybe half throttle with no response and then it will catch and take off hard? WTH.... Hope someone has seen this before TIA
 

Burla

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I finally have a video to share. At this point it wasn't so pronounced but I had only driven a short distance (about two miles). The lower rhythmic tone is what I hear, though it doesn't seem quite as clear in the video compared to in person. But that noise definitely gets much louder the longer I drive it. It seems to disappear completely (regardless of how loud at idle) once I get on the gas, I think around 1,500 RPM.

Here's a link to the video I have for now: https://youtu.be/r6bH71kcQTM

And if it'll help, I can try to reproduce the louder sound later and upload that as well.
To be honest that doesnt sound like hemi tick. The tick I hear is just normal injector tick, not bad at all. You never threw a p0300 range code with ob2? I've listened to 100's of hemi tick video's here, or maybe close to a 100, that doesnt make it. Truck sounds good man.
 

meubin10

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To be honest that doesnt sound like hemi tick. The tick I hear is just normal injector tick, not bad at all. You never threw a p0300 range code with ob2? I've listened to 100's of hemi tick video's here, or maybe close to a 100, that doesnt make it. Truck sounds good man.

Thanks! I still need to get a video of the louder tick at full operating temp, but I haven't had the chance yet. The tick in the earlier video sounds normal to me as well (compared to practically every other vehicle I've ever owned) but I figured I'd ask anyhow.

No, no codes at all. I actually had a CEL several weeks ago, and my scanner only showed an evap leak code. Reset the gas cap and it went away after a few short drives. Checked codes again, all gone.
 

meubin10

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Okay, here's a short video with the much more pronounced ticking noise from the engine. Again, seems to come from the driver side, easy to hear at the wheel well. https://youtube.com/shorts/RTZbypm0jPc?feature=share

I'm not going to be mad if everyone tells me this doesn't sound like it's related to the worst case scenario (e.g. cam/lifter failures). Haha. But it's still bugging me, and short of going to a mechanic, this is the best place I can think of to ask for opinions.

Worst case, I'm fully prepared to take it to a local shop. There's a shop here that I trust with all my vehicles, so no worries there.
 
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