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broby

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Austin
Ram Year
2012
Engine
5.7 Hemi
Howdy, y'all. A year into owning my 2012 1500, 5.7 Hemi and the engine crapped out.

I'm suspecting it's cam and lifter failure.
Cylinder 3 misfire after replacing all spark plugs. Technician found gunk (oil and carbon I suspect) built up on one side of cylinder 3 and a 120 psi pressure.
He got a borescope in there and saw that the valve doesn't move whatsoever when he turns the motor over by hand.
Metal debris found as well.

All other cylinders clean and up at 210 psi.
His suggestion is engine replacement rather than repairing this one.
I'd have liked to replace the cam and lifter with an MDS delete system, replace the fuel pump, and get some good steel shortys.
I'm being told by the technician and my step father (30+ year mechanic) it's better to just replace the whole thing with a new one under warranty.

I'm sticking with the truck with where I'm at on the note.

Any thoughts on the risks to repairing this engine rather than replacing?
Any recommendations on best sources for a rebuilt or new engine?

Thank!
 
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broby

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Austin
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2012
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5.7 Hemi
118,000 miles
Thanks for the Cam walk through link.
With metal shavings having gone through the engine, what all parts are at risk?
I know I'd be replacing camshaft, lifters, and all gaskets as I get down into.
What other parts would be prudent?
My guesses would be oil pump, swap headers while I'm in there.
Should I plan to replace everything that's included in this engine rebuild kit?


Is there risk that the crankshaft has gotten damaged?
 
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JHoward

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NW, Louisiana
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2017
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5.7 Liter
Howdy, y'all. A year into owning my 2012 1500, 5.7 Hemi and the engine crapped out.

I'm suspecting it's cam and lifter failure.
Cylinder 3 misfire after replacing all spark plugs. Technician found gunk (oil and carbon I suspect) built up on one side of cylinder 3 and a 120 psi pressure.
He got a borescope in there and saw that the valve doesn't move whatsoever when he turns the motor over by hand.
Metal debris found as well.

All other cylinders clean and up at 210 psi.
His suggestion is engine replacement rather than repairing this one.
I'd have liked to replace the cam and lifter with an MDS delete system, replace the fuel pump, and get some good steel shortys.
I'm being told by the technician and my step father (30+ year mechanic) it's better to just replace the whole thing with a new one under warranty.

I'm sticking with the truck with where I'm at on the note.

Any thoughts on the risks to repairing this engine rather than replacing?
Any recommendations on best sources for a rebuilt or new engine?

Thank!

Well, that's a bummer.

If and(when)this should happen to my HEMI, I'll replace it with one from MMX(Modern Muscle Extreme.com). I've read positive/good reviews. Check them out.

However, I won't rule out going with a new cam/lifters, etc. ... that'll be decided if the engine hasn't completely crapped out with metal shavings ... jm2¢.

Good luck and hammer down.
 

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broby

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JHoward, how do I determine if the metal shavings have rendered the engine useless?
 
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broby

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jws123

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JHoward, how do I determine if the metal shavings have rendered the engine useless?
Just throw a camshaft and lifters in it flush it out and go about your way yours only has 118k on it its still a baby. I have done many camshafts one had a bunch of metal shavings in the vvt they are all still running no problems.
 

JHoward

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JHoward, how do I determine if the metal shavings have rendered the engine useless?

By pulling the intake manifold and and inspecting the VVT solenoid for metal shavings ... this is what the dealer would do to determine if the engine is fried because that is the indication that there is metal shavings throughout the engine and replacement is needed.

Maybe this isn't your case and slapping in a new cam/lifters would be the fix as long as there ain't any metal shavings floating around in your engine, idk.

Hope that you get your issue resolved soon so that you can continue to enjoy your truck!
 

pacofortacos

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118,000 miles
Thanks for the Cam walk through link.
With metal shavings having gone through the engine, what all parts are at risk?
I know I'd be replacing camshaft, lifters, and all gaskets as I get down into.
What other parts would be prudent?
My guesses would be oil pump, swap headers while I'm in there.
Should I plan to replace everything that's included in this engine rebuild kit?


Is there risk that the crankshaft has gotten damaged?
Pull the oil pan and pull a couple of the bearing caps - that'll tell you real quick if the metal hurt the crank.
 

EdGs

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FL
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2015
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Hemi 5.7L
Always a risk with the metal shavings. I would flush everything best I could, and after the repair, get a case or two of regular oil and a buch of cheapie oil filters, and do a few oil changes, maybe cut the filters open and see what got caught and go from there.

Even cut your filter open from pre-repair. At least you would get an idea what you're up against.

I don't believe you'll get everything out unless you tear it down and tank it. Hopefully it's not too loaded up.

Best of luck to you for a complete and lasting fix.
 

mtofell

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Fwiw, the dealer just replaced my 6.4 under warranty due to a bearing failure and some metal shavings. I'd have to think if there were a reliable way to clean it up and rebuild it they would have gone that route rather than giving me a new $9K engine (plus labor to swap it).
 

jws123

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Fwiw, the dealer just replaced my 6.4 under warranty due to a bearing failure and some metal shavings. I'd have to think if there were a reliable way to clean it up and rebuild it they would have gone that route rather than giving me a new $9K engine (plus labor to swap it).
It was a warranty so they are not allowed to do that have to replace whole thing like they did. Second dealers have no desire to tear apart engines anymore they would rather drop one in make their money and go thats why independent shops are better if you do not have warranty.
 
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broby

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Got the cylinder heads removed and confirmed the block still looks good.
Moving forward with a rebuild, using an MDS delete kit.
Trying to determine if I should use stock non-MDS cam or go with a TSP Stage 1.
Also trying to find somewhere to get a tune either way.

Anyone have recommendations?

Thanks!
 

Curt Gobbell

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Memphis TN Area
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2014
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HEMI 5.7L
I always try to save $

My suggestion is;
1. Pull the motor
2. Tear it down in your garage / shop (where it will be easy and not painful)
3. Assess the damage

Who knows you may get lucky

You have to pull the motor either way
 
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broby

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I always try to save $

My suggestion is;
1. Pull the motor
2. Tear it down in your garage / shop (where it will be easy and not painful)
3. Assess the damage

Who knows you may get lucky

You have to pull the motor either way
I tore it apart and got lucky.
Now trying to determine where to get a non-mds tune
 

GTyankee

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3.0 ecodiesel
I think that i would pull the engine
drop the oil pan
unbolt the crankshaft , throw away the Mains, inspect the crankshaft
new inserts, new oil pump
Camshaft out of any 5.7L that came without MDS, car or heavy duty Ram.

I would pull the pistons, at least hone the cylinder walls
get a good set of piston rings

Send the heads off to be checked for heat & or stress cracks & rebuilt

I used to buy cars with fairly good bodies & there was a machine shop close by with darn reasonable prices.

They did everything, almost as fast as my buddy & i could have done half as much & they even tanked the block & heads.

That was 10 years ago, i don't know what machine shops charge for that now.
 

Hagar1

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Ontario Canada
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2012 Ram 1500
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Hemi 5.7
Pull the oil pan and pull a couple of the bearing caps - that'll tell you real quick if the metal hurt the crank.
Unfortunately, that won't always tell us if the metal caused bearing problems. I have a 5.7 on a stand in my garage right now with one lobe wiped out completely and the bearings look like new. I still wouldn't use them but ....
 

pacofortacos

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Unfortunately, that won't always tell us if the metal caused bearing problems. I have a 5.7 on a stand in my garage right now with one lobe wiped out completely and the bearings look like new. I still wouldn't use them but ....
Does the crank still look perfect?
 

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