2012 Ram Excessive Oil Consumption

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Elo76

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Helllo all,

My wife's 2012 Ram with approx 90k miles is consuming about 1qt every 500 miles. There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust but there is definitely black soot in the tips. At first I was leaning towards the valve seals, but now I am not sure. The dealer use to maintain this for here before we got married so I am not sure when this issue started. I have been keeping an eye one it and keeping the oil topped off. I changed it over to M1 5w-20 HM and it still loses 1qt every 500 miles.

Yesterday I started pulling plugs and looked into the TB. The first two plugs I pulled looked normal. I know it's hard to see but there is a light coat of oil in the TB.

I did pull the PCV and it does rattle. After doing some research, I'm wondering if it was installed backwards with the hole facing the tube. Not sure if this would cause this much consumption or not.

I do plan on pulling the rest of the plugs (I was only pulling one per cylinder) to see if there is any signs of oil. Here is a pic of one of the plugs and the TB.

Any suggestions on what do check?

20230123_181451.jpg20230123_183722.jpg
 

grizzstang

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If it were me I would replace the PCV valve, rattle or not, and see if that solves your consumption issue.

I would also pull the throttle body and clean it, won't help your oil usage but that thing is dirty.

If you are still using oil after a new PCV I would do a compression test.

Your 2012 needs plugs every 30,000 miles so this would be a good time to change them unless you find bad cylinders with low compression.
 

Wild one

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Helllo all,

My wife's 2012 Ram with approx 90k miles is consuming about 1qt every 500 miles. There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust but there is definitely black soot in the tips. At first I was leaning towards the valve seals, but now I am not sure. The dealer use to maintain this for here before we got married so I am not sure when this issue started. I have been keeping an eye one it and keeping the oil topped off. I changed it over to M1 5w-20 HM and it still loses 1qt every 500 miles.

Yesterday I started pulling plugs and looked into the TB. The first two plugs I pulled looked normal. I know it's hard to see but there is a light coat of oil in the TB.

I did pull the PCV and it does rattle. After doing some research, I'm wondering if it was installed backwards with the hole facing the tube. Not sure if this would cause this much consumption or not.

I do plan on pulling the rest of the plugs (I was only pulling one per cylinder) to see if there is any signs of oil. Here is a pic of one of the plugs and the TB.

Any suggestions on what do check?

View attachment 512199View attachment 512200
Your plugs are shot and need replacing,as they've lost the sharp edges on the ground,and the gap looks to be pretty big,but as far as using oil,that plug looks good and doesn't show any signs of bad rings or bad valve seals,but there's 15 other plugs we haven't seen. I think a quart every 500 miles might still be with-in Chrysler specs though.Have you crawled around under neath it to see if there's any obvious leaks.Another thing you might want to consider is going up to a 5W-30 instead of 5W-20. This is from my 2014's 700 page owner manual,and the note at the bottom might interest you.You can use 5W-30 in her truck
 

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Elo76

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Your plugs are shot and need replacing,as they've lost the sharp edges on the ground,and the gap looks to be pretty big,but as far as using oil,that plug looks good and doesn't show any signs of bad rings or bad valve seals,but there's 15 other plugs we haven't seen. I think a quart every 500 miles might still be with-in Chrysler specs though.Have you crawled around under neath it to see if there's any obvious leaks.Another thing you might want to consider is going up to a 5W-30 instead of 5W-20. This is from my 2014's 700 page owner manual,and the note at the bottom might interest you.You can use 5W-30 in her truck

I will order plugs and switch to 5w-30 on my next change.

Course of action:

1. Install new PCV. Existing rattles pretty freely though. Must have been replaced at some point. Does it matter which way the hole faces? I read a post where it should point toward firewall.

2. Pull and inspect the other 15 plugs. Does it make sense to install new plugs and do the compression test at the same time?

3. Won't help with the oil but...I will also clean the throttle body.

Thanks for the help on this.
 

danielmid

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I will order plugs and switch to 5w-30 on my next change.

Course of action:

1. Install new PCV. Existing rattles pretty freely though. Must have been replaced at some point. Does it matter which way the hole faces? I read a post where it should point toward firewall.

2. Pull and inspect the other 15 plugs. Does it make sense to install new plugs and do the compression test at the same time?

3. Won't help with the oil but...I will also clean the throttle body.

Thanks for the help on this.
I'm interested to hear thoughts on #1, I installed mine towards the tube (it goes to a catch can but still). Easy enough to swap if there is an exact way it's supposed to work.

To that point, I'd recommend a catch can to help give you clues about where the oil is going.

Redline SL-1 in the gas tank before your next fill up also, give your fuel system a cleaning while you're doing the rest.
 

BrBlack

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Also interested. Last summer/fall mine was using at least a half liter of oil every tank of gas. Blows blue out of the exhaust on start up. Did replace the PCV and it didn't seem to help. I fear it might be time for valve seals on mine. Truck hasn't moved since November and I plan to wake her up next week.
 

Wild one

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I will order plugs and switch to 5w-30 on my next change.

Course of action:

1. Install new PCV. Existing rattles pretty freely though. Must have been replaced at some point. Does it matter which way the hole faces? I read a post where it should point toward firewall.

2. Pull and inspect the other 15 plugs. Does it make sense to install new plugs and do the compression test at the same time?

3. Won't help with the oil but...I will also clean the throttle body.

Thanks for the help on this.
It's never a bad idea to do a compression test in my opinion. If you're removing the throttle body to clean it,disconnect the battery first.
 
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Elo76

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Here are the rest of the plug pics.

I also did a compression test. 205, 197, 197, 195, 198, 197, 200, 195

Let me know what you guys think. Pics are in order 5 and 6 look bad. Valve seals?

1.jpg
2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg
 
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Elo76

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Just to update this thread. I ended up doing a combustion chamber cleaning with the Mopar stuff and am now in the process of replacing the valve seals. I only got one cylinder done so far. Here is a pic of the first two seals I got out compared to a new one. I got the Comp Cams ones from Summit because I read some horror stories about the Fel-Pro ones not working or coming unseated. I'm pretty sure this normal due to age and being installed for over 90k miles but the new one's ID definitely is smaller. Kind of hard to see due to the shadow. I just snapped a quick pic this morning. This is Cylinder #2 which is not one I suspected to be a problem after pulling the plugs.

seals.jpg
 
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Elo76

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Prior to me getting ahold of this thing. She was doing 5k through the dealership in Grove City. I have no clue what they were even putting in this thing. It was crazy...when this first happened, I was so mad thinking that they didn't even put in enough oil. Come to find out after monitoring it...there was a real problem. One crazy thing.....this is what her air filter looked like. They never ever changed it.
20210728_192958.jpg
 

BrBlack

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Just to update this thread. I ended up doing a combustion chamber cleaning with the Mopar stuff and am now in the process of replacing the valve seals. I only got one cylinder done so far. Here is a pic of the first two seals I got out compared to a new one. I got the Comp Cams ones from Summit because I read some horror stories about the Fel-Pro ones not working or coming unseated. I'm pretty sure this normal due to age and being installed for over 90k miles but the new one's ID definitely is smaller. Kind of hard to see due to the shadow. I just snapped a quick pic this morning. This is Cylinder #2 which is not one I suspected to be a problem after pulling the plugs.

What's the job like to replace these? I truly think I'm in the same boat. Will need to pull plugs and do a compression test come spring to confirm.
 

Sherman Bird

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Helllo all,

My wife's 2012 Ram with approx 90k miles is consuming about 1qt every 500 miles. There is no smoke coming out of the exhaust but there is definitely black soot in the tips. At first I was leaning towards the valve seals, but now I am not sure. The dealer use to maintain this for here before we got married so I am not sure when this issue started. I have been keeping an eye one it and keeping the oil topped off. I changed it over to M1 5w-20 HM and it still loses 1qt every 500 miles.

Yesterday I started pulling plugs and looked into the TB. The first two plugs I pulled looked normal. I know it's hard to see but there is a light coat of oil in the TB.

I did pull the PCV and it does rattle. After doing some research, I'm wondering if it was installed backwards with the hole facing the tube. Not sure if this would cause this much consumption or not.

I do plan on pulling the rest of the plugs (I was only pulling one per cylinder) to see if there is any signs of oil. Here is a pic of one of the plugs and the TB.

Any suggestions on what do check?

View attachment 512199View attachment 512200
That spark plug is worn out. Replace it. (them) There is no indication of oil consumption on it, however.
 

Sherman Bird

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Just to update this thread. I ended up doing a combustion chamber cleaning with the Mopar stuff and am now in the process of replacing the valve seals. I only got one cylinder done so far. Here is a pic of the first two seals I got out compared to a new one. I got the Comp Cams ones from Summit because I read some horror stories about the Fel-Pro ones not working or coming unseated. I'm pretty sure this normal due to age and being installed for over 90k miles but the new one's ID definitely is smaller. Kind of hard to see due to the shadow. I just snapped a quick pic this morning. This is Cylinder #2 which is not one I suspected to be a problem after pulling the plugs.

View attachment 513699
I'm sure glad that my surgeon didn't show me old, used guts last time I had surgery! ;)
 

Yardbird

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I was speaking to an oil distributor about turning a bay of mine into a quick oil change operation. This was back around 1997-1998.

There is a Ford dealer less than a mile away which is part of a locally owned small group of dealerships.
The distributor said they supplied all the oil to those dealerships, and several others, for their in house oil changes.

I can tell you the oil name was NOT Motorcraft, nor any other major name brand.

Dealerships put in what is cheapest that may, or may not, meet your vehicles specifications.
 
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Elo76

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That spark plug is worn out. Replace it. (them) There is no indication of oil consumption on it, however.
Yeah...I'm replacing them all. I know that one does not show any signs, but cylinder 5 and 6 do if you look further down a few posts.

I'm sure glad that my surgeon didn't show me old, used guts last time I had surgery! ;)
I know...I wouldn't believe it if I didn't pull it out myself. That looks like one of the fake filters you see that the Quick Lube joints show customers.
 
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Elo76

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What's the job like to replace these? I truly think I'm in the same boat. Will need to pull plugs and do a compression test come spring to confirm.

Well...if you are mechanically inclined, then it's not bad. I purchased the tool, seals, valve cover gaskets, and some light tack grease to help the keepers stay attached while I decompress the spring. I also got a copy of the FSM to get the torque specs. After I'm done, I'm sure I will be able to give you a better outlook on the job. I'll also be sure to post the results for the consumption.
 

BrBlack

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Appreciate it. Since swapping out my cam the trucks been going through oil. I kick myself for not doing valve seals at the same time.
 
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Elo76

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The truck is finally all back together. I didn't work on it every day and took my time.
Tip: I did have to remove the two inside bolts and loosen the outer two on the brake booster to get the drivers side valve cover in and out. Found this info on YouTube.

So...

1. Combustion chamber is cleaned with MCC
2. Redline Sl-1 is in the tank
3. Changed out plugs
4. New valve seals (COMP Cams 531-16)
5. Changed oil from 5w-20 to 5w-30

Hopefully she will be putting on some miles here with the next week or so. I'll be sure to post up results.

Starting point was 500mi/qt
 

Travelin Ram

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I hope you got the PCV sorted. Bad crankcase ventilation will definitely cause oil burning. And direction of the valve matters.

One thing I always do to assess an older engine is open the oil fill cap running at idle to see if there is positive (blow by from rings) or static / negative pressure (working PCV). It’s not 100% on oil ring function but it is a fast quick and dirty assessment of compression ring health. It wouldn’t be surprising in an engine using the maximum oil change interval and cheap oil to have some sticky rings.

PS you can get a face full of oil of there’s a lot of crankcase pressure. A rag over it is good insurance.
 
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