2013 5.7 cam lifter replacement complete…No crank No start…will crank if starter relay jumped

[DJH2013hemi]

2013 Ram Hemi Sport 4x4 with push button start and 8 speed transmission ~91k miles.

I bought the truck running with the Hemi tick…the tick was caused by broken exhaust studs on both heads and cylinder 8 lifter failure. I took almost a year stripping the engine down and replaced cam, lifters, timing set, water pump, brand new starter, pulleys, tensioner, dampener, VVt solenoids, coil packs, spark plugs, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, all heater hoses, radiator hoses, all gaskets. Sent heads to machine shop to be cleaned and remove broken exhaust studs. I replaced exhaust manifold with shorty headers and all O2 sensors are new.

The engine is completely reassembled and I have all plugs, sensors, vacuum lines, timing set, and ground straps reconnected. When I push start button in truck or remote start button on key fob, the truck will NOT crank. The dash is completely lit up. The radio screen is locked and screen says truck needs to be started. The OBDII is not scanning even though tool shows it has power. I’m thinking the truck needs to start to unlock radio and OBDII scanning.

I CAN CRANK THE TRUCK IF I JUMP THE STARTER RELAY…strong crank but no start or even a sputter. All lights light up on transmission display and shift dial will not move.

 

[MSIGF63_91]

. . . Since the PCM is intentionally preventing the Starter from engaging + No Comm with PCM + Radio security, I'd say PCM/Battery Connection or Low Voltage. A good wiggle test and listening for a spark sound can help if it's Broken/Damaged Battery Cable. My '16 Ram doesn't allow the Shift Dial to rotate either with the Key in Run + Brake so at least that's normal.

. . . There's a Ground by the PCM Connectors at the Fender or Drivers side Ground easy to miss. Theres a Ground on the Psgr side next to Exhaust Manifold that breaks commonly, but that doesn't seem effect crank issues. Here's a list of reminders + Checks;

~Reverify Grounds, thoroughly
~Verify Battery cables hidden in places & @ Alternator
~Starter Relay Test (or replace relay w/an unimportant one).
~Fuse/Fusebox '+' Wire
~PCM Connectors not Fully seated so you'll want to pull them back off and inspect for Bent pins at least and carefully Straighten/Reseat.
~Low Battery Voltage
~Security Timeout-- Do you have another Key Or another Dodge/Ram key by mistake?
~PCM Issue

. . . Good idea to Verify correct PCM connector placement too, w/Battery disconnected first of course.

. . . I don't believe a weak Remote battery would cause this, but I suppose it's worth to verify the voltage or replace the battery.
----- Actually I do remember an instance of a vehicle sometimes not cranking because it couldn't verify a nearby key remote, even though it was, I simply opened and shut door, then pressed a couple remote door buttons, then the vehicle wanted to crank on my next attempt, it was one of those push button starts, Not sure if it was a Ram though. This also brings me to mention that some vehicles will not attempt to crank with less than 10.5 or 9.5 volts, though for this vehicle I cannot confirm this.

. . . For those wondering about the battery, yes you can cause the PCM to do funny things if it's plugged in while the battery is connected or at Low Voltage, usually disconnect for some 20min+ and reconnect resolves some electical nonsense or Gremlins.

. . . Also, if it does start I'd say shut it off immediately &/Or clear flood mode a minute or two to ensure enough oil is built up around the Engine/Solenoids/Lifters, this will ensure low speed wear and tear instead of eating away new metal parts via High Speed.
----- So at every attempt to start have your foot flooring the pedal or remove the Fuel Pump or ignition fuse, if you removed the Fuel Injector Fuse it will prevent cranking since it may also be a Powertrain Fuse

. . . The good news is that it sounds simple. I believe that covers all the easy starting circuitry that can cause this particular problem, A wire or ignition module unplugged could be the issue too, but I'm not convinced and hopefully someone chimes if there's more to add or check.. I'm excited to know when your truck is one the road, post what Cam Kit you purchased for those looking for one to buy, we know there's gonna be plenty needing one lol.

. . . Let us know if anything helped or if you've observed anything else that seems out of place. The more info we have the better options we can give. There will be more people who will have this issue I'm sure.

Edit - Crank Sens -> Determines Injector Sequence and Timing
Cam Sens ->Synchronize Injectors w/Cylinders, between Injection and Spark Events.

2013+ uses 2 Connector Plugins

 

[Wild one]

2013 Ram Hemi Sport 4x4 with push button start and 8 speed transmission ~91k miles.

I bought the truck running with the Hemi tick…the tick was caused by broken exhaust studs on both heads and cylinder 8 lifter failure. I took almost a year stripping the engine down and replaced cam, lifters, timing set, water pump, brand new starter, pulleys, tensioner, dampener, VVt solenoids, coil packs, spark plugs, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, all heater hoses, radiator hoses, all gaskets. Sent heads to machine shop to be cleaned and remove broken exhaust studs. I replaced exhaust manifold with shorty headers and all O2 sensors are new.

The engine is completely reassembled and I have all plugs, sensors, vacuum lines, timing set, and ground straps reconnected. When I push start button in truck or remote start button on key fob, the truck will NOT crank. The dash is completely lit up. The radio screen is locked and screen says truck needs to be started. The OBDII is not scanning even though tool shows it has power. I’m thinking the truck needs to start to unlock radio and OBDII scanning.

I CAN CRANK THE TRUCK IF I JUMP THE STARTER RELAY…strong crank but no start or even a sputter. All lights light up on transmission display and shift dial will not move.

Whats it do if you have the key/start button in the run position and you jump the starter relay

 

[MSIGF63_91]

Whats it do if you have the key/start button in the run position and you jump the starter relay

This is a good question, something I would do.

 

[Wild one]

This is a good question, something I would do.

Well hopefully he comes back,as he joined thursday,made this post,and seems to have disappeared.

 

[DJH2013hemi]

. . . Since the PCM is intentionally preventing the Starter from engaging + No Comm with PCM + Radio security, I'd say PCM/Battery Connector or Low Voltage. A good wiggle test and listening for a spark sound can help if it's Broken/Damaged Battery Cable. My '16 Ram doesn't allow the Shift Dial to rotate either with the Key in Run + Brake so at least that's normal.

. . . There's a Ground by the PCM Connectors at the Fender or Drivers side Ground easy to miss. Theres a Ground on the Psgr side next to Exhaust Manifold that breaks commonly, but that doesn't seem effect crank issues. Here's a list of reminders + Checks;

~Reverify Grounds, thoroughly
~Verify Battery cables hidden in places & @ Alternator
~Starter Relay Test (or replace relay w/an unimportant one).
~Fuse/Fusebox '+' Wire
~PCM Connectors not Fully seated so you'll want to pull them back off and inspect for Bent pins at least and carefully Straighten/Reseat.
~Low Battery Voltage
~Security Timeout-- Do you have another Key Or another Dodge/Ram key by mistake?
~PCM Issue

. . . Good idea to Verify correct PCM connector placement too, w/Battery disconnected first of course.

. . . I don't believe a weak Remote battery would cause this, but I suppose it's worth to verify the voltage or replace the battery.
----- Actually I do remember an instance of a vehicle sometimes not cranking because it couldn't verify a nearby key remote, even though it was, I simply opened and shut door, then pressed a couple remote door buttons, then the vehicle wanted to crank on my next attempt, it was one of those push button starts, Not sure if it was a Ram though. This also brings me to mention that some vehicles will not attempt to crank with less than 10.5 or 9.5 volts, though for this vehicle I cannot confirm this.

. . . For those wondering about the battery, yes you can cause the PCM to do funny things if it's plugged in while the battery is connected or at Low Voltage, usually disconnect for some 20min+ and reconnect resolves some electical nonsense or Gremlins.

. . . Also, if it does start I'd say shut it off immediately &/Or clear flood mode a minute or two to ensure enough oil is built up around the Engine/Solenoids/Lifters, this will ensure low speed wear and tear instead of eating away new metal parts via High Speed.
----- So at every attempt to start have your foot flooring the pedal or remove the Fuel Pump or ignition fuse, if you removed the Fuel Injector Fuse it will prevent cranking since it may also be a Powertrain Fuse

. . . The good news is that it sounds simple. I believe that covers all the easy starting circuitry that can cause this particular problem, A wire or ignition module unplugged could be the issue too, but I'm not convinced and hopefully someone chimes if there's more to add or check.. I'm excited to know when your truck is one the road, post what Cam Kit you purchased for those looking for one to buy, we know there's gonna be plenty needing one lol.

. . . Let us know if anything helped or if you've observed anything else that seems out of place. The more info we have the better options we can give. There will be more people who will have this issue I'm sure.

Well hopefully he comes back,as he joined thursday,made this post,and seems to have disappeared.

This is a good question, something I would do.

Whats it do if you have the key/start button in the run position and you jump the starter relay

No difference bypassing relay with push button ignition on run…just cranked as previous.

I am not going anywhere, I really appreciate the input. I walked away from the truck for a few days so I didn’t do anything rash…like start tearing it down again.

 

[DJH2013hemi]

Well hopefully he comes back,as he joined thursday,made this post,and seems to have disappeared.

No difference in crank when I put push button start in the run position…cranks just as it did when ignition was off and relay was bypassed

 

[DJH2013hemi]

. . . Since the PCM is intentionally preventing the Starter from engaging + No Comm with PCM + Radio security, I'd say PCM/Battery Connector or Low Voltage. A good wiggle test and listening for a spark sound can help if it's Broken/Damaged Battery Cable. My '16 Ram doesn't allow the Shift Dial to rotate either with the Key in Run + Brake so at least that's normal.

. . . There's a Ground by the PCM Connectors at the Fender or Drivers side Ground easy to miss. Theres a Ground on the Psgr side next to Exhaust Manifold that breaks commonly, but that doesn't seem effect crank issues. Here's a list of reminders + Checks;

~Reverify Grounds, thoroughly
~Verify Battery cables hidden in places & @ Alternator
~Starter Relay Test (or replace relay w/an unimportant one).
~Fuse/Fusebox '+' Wire
~PCM Connectors not Fully seated so you'll want to pull them back off and inspect for Bent pins at least and carefully Straighten/Reseat.
~Low Battery Voltage
~Security Timeout-- Do you have another Key Or another Dodge/Ram key by mistake?
~PCM Issue

. . . Good idea to Verify correct PCM connector placement too, w/Battery disconnected first of course.

. . . I don't believe a weak Remote battery would cause this, but I suppose it's worth to verify the voltage or replace the battery.
----- Actually I do remember an instance of a vehicle sometimes not cranking because it couldn't verify a nearby key remote, even though it was, I simply opened and shut door, then pressed a couple remote door buttons, then the vehicle wanted to crank on my next attempt, it was one of those push button starts, Not sure if it was a Ram though. This also brings me to mention that some vehicles will not attempt to crank with less than 10.5 or 9.5 volts, though for this vehicle I cannot confirm this.

. . . For those wondering about the battery, yes you can cause the PCM to do funny things if it's plugged in while the battery is connected or at Low Voltage, usually disconnect for some 20min+ and reconnect resolves some electical nonsense or Gremlins.

. . . Also, if it does start I'd say shut it off immediately &/Or clear flood mode a minute or two to ensure enough oil is built up around the Engine/Solenoids/Lifters, this will ensure low speed wear and tear instead of eating away new metal parts via High Speed.
----- So at every attempt to start have your foot flooring the pedal or remove the Fuel Pump or ignition fuse, if you removed the Fuel Injector Fuse it will prevent cranking since it may also be a Powertrain Fuse

. . . The good news is that it sounds simple. I believe that covers all the easy starting circuitry that can cause this particular problem, A wire or ignition module unplugged could be the issue too, but I'm not convinced and hopefully someone chimes if there's more to add or check.. I'm excited to know when your truck is one the road, post what Cam Kit you purchased for those looking for one to buy, we know there's gonna be plenty needing one lol.

. . . Let us know if anything helped or if you've observed anything else that seems out of place. The more info we have the better options we can give. There will be more people who will have this issue I'm sure.

Thanks a ton for this input…I took a breather from the truck but I will be diving in on a few of your suggestions this weekend. Is there a ground on the driver side near battery that I may have missed? I can tell you I hooked the one on the passenger side near PCM and replaced the ground strap that connects to back of each head and clips to the aluminum shield on fire wall near the exhaust manifold. I have triple checked these. I am absorbing all your other recommendations and have a 9/22 dated battery that is showing 12.5 volts after jumping relay tonight with ignition in run.

 

[MSIGF63_91]

Wise choice to take a few days. I believe the Cam sensor tells the PCM when to fire the Injectors, not sure if it would prevent ignition Crank, but the sensor is easy to find near psgr Valve covers looking towards Center of the block, held in by one 10mm Bolt..

This is good information.

Tearing it down would only reveal something Unplugged/Screwed in.
Perhaps a Ground in the wrong spot?

 

[MSIGF63_91]

I'll check my truck and see if I can find some Grounds too

 

[DJH2013hemi]

Wise choice to take a few days. I believe the Cam sensor tells the PCM when to fire the Injectors, not sure if it would prevent ignition Crank, but the sensor is easy to find near psgr Valve covers looking towards Center of the block, held in by one 10mm Bolt..

This is good information.

Tearing it down would only reveal something Unplugged/Screwed in.
Perhaps a Ground in the wrong spot?

So cam and crank sensors are both new…I have thought briefly about putting the old ones back in. Was looking to see if there was a way to reset PCM b/c I tore up crank sensor pretty bad getting it out of the block. That said I have replaced so many parts since I was tearing the motor down. I replaced just about everything on this motor except no valve job, no crank or pistons, and no injectors just injector seals…I have a feeling injectors and fuel pump may be an issue later but at this point I’m just looking for crank and spark at this point.

 

[MSIGF63_91]

Yeah you mentioned the new Sensors, I just forgot to mention whether they were plugged in or not. Did you happen to remove any Fuses or the Injector Fuse in particular? If you did you'll get a no Crank. Ask me how I know lol.

 

[Ken226]

Double check all of the big electrical connectors. Like the star connector, or whatever the big one in the driver side kick panel is called. That one got me good once. The locking cam lever was dislodged just a little, but not enough to be obvious.

When you are doing a major repair like this, it's easy to overlook a connector somewhere. Doube check everything that you touched, or that was even nearby something you touched. It's easy to accidentally bump something without realizing it.

 

[jws123]

Also check the connections into the TIPM if you moved it out of the way they can feel like they are seated but are not.

 

[MSIGF63_91]

Not sure what that connector is on the left (5), Easy to miss?

Lol, We're all pointing to User error, watch it's a chipmunk eating his MDS Solenoid wires and the truck don't like it.

Edit - 5 is Knock Sensor

 

[MSIGF63_91]

Here's 2 Grounds

Edit - Just realized this is for 2009-12, I don't have data or evidence for the 2013+ trucks, but I assume they are similar. The PCM also changed to the 2 Plugin Style in 2013, fun fact.

 

[MSIGF63_91]

Also for the Remote Start to work, make sure the hood is Fully closed, foot Off the brake, all doors + Liftgate closed.

Here's an official source for no Crank if your eyes can handle the dull sleepy color. Man you have a bunch of info, where to start.. I'd say what Ken & Jws mentioned

 

[DJH2013hemi]

Also for the Remote Start to work, make sure the hood is Fully closed, foot Off the brake, all doors + Liftgate closed

Confirmed I am doing all this properly

 

[DJH2013hemi]

Here's 2 Grounds

Edit - Just realized this is for 2009-11, I don't have data or evidence for the newer trucks, but I assume they are similar.

G102 is secure to block and I never removed. The G101 I didn’t see but i will look again. I would imagine it’s the same on 2013 . did I mention I took exhaust manifolds off and replaced with shorty headers maybe ther was a ground attached to the manifold stud?

 

[DJH2013hemi]

Not sure what that connector is on the left (5), Easy to miss?

Lol, We're all pointing to User error, watch it's a chipmunk eating his MDS Solenoid wires and the truck don't like it.

Edit - 5 is Knock Sensor

I 100% expect an error on my part…I don’t believe any animals got into the garage or the truck from what I can see