2014 1500 Compressor Relay

[Jwrigh12]

Ok, so I’m pulling my hair out here...

Trying to diagnose an AC issue in the truck (2014 5.7 Hemi Lonestar). As part of the process, I’m tracing everything back to ensure that all electrical connections work. Ive manually jumped the compressor clutch, and the clutch works.

One of the things on the list to check is the compressor relay... but I cant for the life of me find it! It’s not in the TIPM, and I cant find any documentation on where it is.

Does anybody know where the AC compressor relay is located? Any help would be VERY much appreciated!

 

[Sur5er]

According to All Data, the AC relay in my 2016 is internal and non-serviceable. Jumping just applies power to magnetic clutch, have you checked the refrigerant pressures? Low pressure sensor will stop compressor clutch engaging...except when you jump it!

 

[Jwrigh12]

I know for a fact that my refrigerant is empty. Went to a shop for them to top up refrigerant... and the then told me that the compressor wouldn't engage and that it'd be almost 2k to replace it. Told them to pull the refrigerant back out... and am now trying to diagnose from the ground up. Chasing electrical first to make sure that isn't the issue.

Does all data provide any additional info? Internal to where? Thanks so much!

 

[Sur5er]

Did they check the LP sensor? Try jumping thar!

 

[Jwrigh12]

Negative. This was a shop that i only trusted to charge it with freon... simply because they were open. What would the process be to jump the LP switch?

 

[crash68]

with the refrigerant out, the AC isn't going turn in due to the low pressure control. The pressure control could be bad, you would need to pressure test that. There could be something wrong internally with the compressor, without a full refrigerant charge there's no way to determine if/or what the problem is.
I doubt you have any idea how handle or service a refrigeration system. Let the shop handle the repair because it will probably cost you more in the long run to try fixing it yourself.

 

[Jwrigh12]

Well, there in lies the issue. This is the new 1234yf system...which is prohibitively expensive to service. Unfortunately, Im not in the financial position to spend upwards of $3,000 (info from multiple quotes) to have a shop fix it... or fill the system with refrigerant (between $350-$600 just for a fill, again from multiple quotes), just to cross my fingers and hope it works.

I am aware that the low pressure sensor will prevent the compressor from turning on, as will a high side sensor, a bad ground, faulty relay, blown fuse, and an internal solenoid on the back of the compressor (that conveniently is not sold as a standalone part that ive been able to find).
I also know that if there is internal damage to the compressor that resulted in metal shavings being sent throughout the system, that the proper course of action is to replace most everything except the lines, and the evap core, and then a full system chemical flush and nitrogen purge is required before refill.

I am competent enough to do the work, once Im pointed in the right direction, but unfortunately...at this point DIY is the only option I have at this point.

Because of this, I plan on starting at the bottom of the list, and working up.

I have already:
Topped off the 1234yf in the system (shop did this) - was told that the compressor would not engage
Manually jumped the clutch to ensure that is was in fact functional
Checked AC compressor fuse (I believe its 62, but I dont have the truck in front of me at the moment)

I plan on ASAP:
Getting ac pump and manifold gauge set, and performing vac test on the system to check for leaks

I Need to Know:
If its possible to test the solenoid, low pressure sensor, and relay without having the system charged (because if the compressor does need to be replaced, I would prefer not to have to fill with refrigerant twice)
Location of the compressor relay.
Any other electrical diagnostic steps to take prior to replacing major components and disassembling the system.

 

[EdGs]

If they pulled the refrigerant out, you are still going to have to fill it again anyways.

I would have engaged the ac clutch manually to see if it worked when it was 'full' of refrigerant.

I would leave it to the pros, not something to mess around with if you don't know what you are doing.

I wish you the best on getting it fixed.

 

[Jwrigh12]

I absolutely understand that I will have to fill it again... however filling it (at a cost of $300-$600) and hoping that its an electrical/sensor issue...only to find that its another issue that requires disassembly and refilling of the system (at a cost of another $300-$600) is an unwise use of time and resources.

While I do appreciate the recommendations to let the pros handle it (something I'm more than willing to do when Im able to) - that is simply not an option at this time. With estimates being upwards of three thousand dollars, my options are 1. Figure this out and do it myself, or 2. Survive indefinitely in 115 degree Phoenix summer without AC. Having a shop do this right now is simply not an option.

Not trying to come across ungrateful or difficult, but what I need is someone to point me in the right direction, and some diagnostic help, instead of recommendations to have a shop do it. Although I do appreciate you taking the time to respond! @EdGs

 

[Jwrigh12]

@crash68 Does AllData provide a location for this non-serviceable compressor relay? That would be very helpful! Thanks!

 

[crash68]

@crash68 Does AllData provide a location for this non-serviceable compressor relay?

Don't have access to AllData. The relay is most likely in the PDM(usually called the TIPM) then it's not serviceable, probably > $1K to replace. The pressure switches would have been easier to troubleshoot with the refrigerant still in the system. Also diagnosing the compressor along with the operation of the rest of the AC system is paramount of having a refrigerant charge in the system. Adding in the cost of buying tools/equipment to service the AC system only to be entirely responsible for the repair doesn't make sense, if the shop doesn't fix it the right way they'll be on the hook. Look at your long term potential cost before dismissing having a pro do it, trust me we laugh about people trying to do it themselves all the time and end up having to fixed the botched repairs more often than not.
If the excess cost of repairing the system is too much for you, wait till December when there isn't as much of a demand.