2014 5.7 misfire, now won't start.

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Burla

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I don't like to post this too much, but since you asked and this is your thread, these hemi's lubrication systems pose challenges not unlike flat tappets. So some thought and consideration should go into what oils are used based on additives and/or viscosity. So hemi tick lubrication threads and polls of members in those threads is how we dealt with this as a collective. There is little doubt that lubrication strategies pay off, ten years plus and we still get success stories all the time. The one thing we have that actually helps us is a ticking condition, kill the tick you in most cases cure the disease. Now, some trucks don't tick and still accumulate damage, would it not be helpful to follow the science of lubrication additives anyhow considering the challenges of the hemi? Much white paper has been posted in syn thread on what types of things can help lower the coefficient of friction.

Search threads in my sig for more info.

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Sillygoose

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I'd pull the driver side valve cover, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the truck watching how the rocker arms move over #7 compared to the others. This isn't too difficult to do or put back together. If your 14 is anything like my 11, loosen the brake booster for more wiggle room to slide the valve cover out . This will tell you if it's the cam or not.
 

Wild one

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I'd pull the driver side valve cover, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the truck watching how the rocker arms move over #7 compared to the others. This isn't too difficult to do or put back together. If your 14 is anything like my 11, loosen the brake booster for more wiggle room to slide the valve cover out . This will tell you if it's the cam or not.
If you pull the starter relay and use a remote starter switch,you don't need to pull the fuel pump fuse,or worry about the truck trying to start,and you can actually be under the hood watching the rockers move while using the remote starter switch to bump the engine over. If you don't have a remote starter switch,you can easily make yourself one.

 
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AStanE

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If you pull the starter relay and use a remote starter switch,you don't need to pull the fuel pump fuse,or worry about the truck trying to start,and you can actually be under the hood watching the rockers move while using the remote starter switch to bump the engine over. If you don't have a remote starter switch,you can easily make yourself one.

Been seriously considering buying/making one of those actually...
 

Wild one

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Been seriously considering buying/making one of those actually...
They're one of those tools you don't use all that often,but are handy as h@ll when you need it. If you do decide to build one similiar to the one in the link,you can use pretty well anything to contain the switch.There's another video floating around of a guy using a pill bottle with a screw on cap to hold the switch,which might be a bit easier to hold.
 
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AStanE

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Anyone heard tell of TCM interfering with/causing additional seemingly unrelated codes, such as what I'm seeing?

My Wife's Honda pilot had to have its injectors changed out, common problem with their direct ports, and it threw almost every damn code known to man when they failed, including TCM-related codes, which thankfully the TCM was covered by an emissions warranty of all things when they decided to replace it. I think that's why I'm still so up in the air about it, because I'm wondering if it's a can bus thing.
 

Burla

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Anyone heard tell of TCM interfering with/causing additional seemingly unrelated codes, such as what I'm seeing?

My Wife's Honda pilot had to have its injectors changed out, common problem with their direct ports, and it threw almost every damn code known to man when they failed, including TCM-related codes, which thankfully the TCM was covered by an emissions warranty of all things when they decided to replace it. I think that's why I'm still so up in the air about it, because I'm wondering if it's a can bus thing.
I don't know about the tcm doing this, however this happens a lot with low battery power. Sometimes when batteries have full charge it really isn't enough because the capacity has gotten low. Especially in winter months, capacity goes down and lifespan goes up, science of batteries.

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AStanE

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Tried resetting codes and turning it over again.
Got two more P027(exhaust valve bank 1 solenoid range/performance) codes right away. Never started, all the thing was turn over.

Battery load-tested fine the other day, too. I wanted to charge it up good before I started troubleshooting anything more, so I pulled out all the stops.
 

Ronnie Smith

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Am I missing something here? You said you shot a small amount of starting fluid in the air cleaner and it ran smooth for 3 to 4 seconds. Have you checked the fuel pressure with a gage. You should be reading 50 to 60 psi.
 

ExpressRules

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I agree with Ronnie Smith. You stated that using starter fluid it started and ran smooth. That to me points to a fuel pressure or injector problem. With the codes you could definitely have other issues, but take an easier route and get a fuel pressure gauge (you can rent one at auto parts store) to try to eliminate a fuel issue.
 
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