2014 5.7 misfire, now won't start.

[1 MEAN66]

Everything made now a days has injectors. A lot of vehicle do not have "fuel' codes. Three basic thing to start any engine of any year: 1)fuel, 2) compression, and 3) spark. So from what I am reading I also agree problem sounds fuel related. Yes you say you had a good "stream" of fuel. So does a garden hose but you can squeeze the hose with your fingers and almost stop it, Fuel systems can require near 90psi, pumps are capable of more. Buy a fuel pressure gauge set, I am sure harbor freight has an inexpensive one. Test it for pressure. Once you have one you can even test for injector leaks, etc. I also believe YOU have already found the problem. Plug a scanner in crank the engine if you are getting an RPM reading then the computer knows it is cranking. You added fuel and it went VRoom. I believe you found it. It has been since 2017 since I have been full time tech but I would guess pressure with just key on will be in the 50-60 PSI range. Computer just opens and closes the injector "door" to let fuel spray, it then can also vary the time it is open (duty cycle) to vary the quantity that they actually spray. No pressure-no juice! NO juice no VROOM!

 

[AStanE]

Does uh....does anyone have the wiring snippet then?

TIPM to pump? Saw numerous posts online with links supposedly going to sites with diagrams, but none of the sites had what I was looking for.

As stated earlier I plan to test it, today even I hope. I'm just looking to save a few trips back and forth from home; I want to know the wiring path before I head out, for troubleshooting mostly, and for operation/bypass reasons IF I can't get ahold of the dude that had the scanner that could turn the pump on, i.e., I want the pump to run constantly again to test it really well.

 

[AStanE]

On most vehicles I've worked on at initial Key On (ignition run, but not start) the fuel pump will operate for a few seconds to charge the fuel rails to ensure the injectors have enough fuel pressure to operate properly. This is usually at full system pressure.

This may not happen all of the time and is dependent on how much pressure is detected at Key On. For example: If the engine has just been fuel charged to max and the engine was not run, another Key On a few minutes later may not engage the pump.

In the past the typical full pressure is around 65 PSI on these systems. After the engine is started it usually drops about 5-8 PSI (normal operating mode). If the system declares a fault, fuel pressure is delivered to maximum pressure.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 85402 miles

I'm really very curious if the initial pump run upon turning the ignition is strictly time-based, time-based with a pressure condition too, or if it's strictly pressure based, i.e., runs until that pressure sensor is satisfied.

 

[AStanE]

Appreciate all the responses thus far.
I really do.

Just looking to arm up before I venture out to the front

 

[Daily Driver44]

i've stated this before in some other threads similar to this one.
You state that it ran smooth briefly with starting fluid yet the codes are for a transmission and cyl 7.
anther member posted it could be a fuel-pressure regulator which i could definitely see.
What i posted in other threads is that the main harness that goes down the back of the engine and on top of the bell-housing and back is known to have a pinch point and also carries just about all of the power-train wires from the computer. I would definitely check this first for frayed wires and such before attempting anything else.
this sounds like a good place to start considering your having more than just 1 misfire.

 

[Wild one]

Does uh....does anyone have the wiring snippet then?

TIPM to pump? Saw numerous posts online with links supposedly going to sites with diagrams, but none of the sites had what I was looking for.

As stated earlier I plan to test it, today even I hope. I'm just looking to save a few trips back and forth from home; I want to know the wiring path before I head out, for troubleshooting mostly, and for operation/bypass reasons IF I can't get ahold of the dude that had the scanner that could turn the pump on, i.e., I want the pump to run constantly again to test it really well.

Pull the fuel pump relay and jump the terminals,if you don't have the scan tool to turn the pump on

 

[AStanE]

Pull the fuel pump relay and jump the terminals,if you don't have the scan tool to turn the pump on

The relay is soldered onto the TIPM board on these. I have no serviceable relay to pull. Luckily, the fuse for the pump is post-relay so I was able to jump it there.

Again, wanted specific info prior to heading out; at least I got lucky this time.

Pump supplied 60+ psi while deadheaded, and was ~36-40 working pressure while discharging(gauge has handy bleedoff to check working pressure). It only lost maybe 4psi in 20 minutes when I killed the pump. Stayed north of 50psi with pump off for quite a while.

 

[AStanE]

Shop got it running.. Fuel had a lot of water in it........sample they pulled was close to 50% water.. I should've checked a sample, but it smelled so damn strong while testing the pump that I just ignored that possibility, for some stupid reason.

I can't figure it out. I looked back and I fueled it up on Super bowl Sunday, and it ran fine that day into the night. Ran fine next AM -water should settle out instantly at the bottom, so I would think it would run poor almost right away IF I got bad fuel at the station- and I proceeded to run through close to 3/4 of a tank before any issues manifested.

Thinking either some piece of work pored some in the tank, or I have a hole/intrusion point somewhere.

 

[1 MEAN66]

Glad to see that is was found!

 

[AStanE]

How in the H3ll did I accumulate that much water? I'm coming up with nothing for the most part.

I did find an emissions hose off the front of the tank has been chewed into, but it's such a small line, and I haven't been mud-bogging or driving through significant rain events; I would think if the water was a cumulative thing, then the truck wouldn't run worth a damn sucking that water off the bottom once it reached a decent concentration..

Anyone have any ideas? I looked filler neck and the rest of the tank over best I could, just not seeing any super good intrusion points.