2014 5.7 P1414 MDS Cyl #4

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Dusted75

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I'm new the forum here, but very impressed with some of the posts and advice. I'm hoping you guys can provide some insight for me. I had a lifter on Cyl #5 take out the cam lob about 1 year ago with 90K miles on the engine. I replaced the cam, lifters and push rods. It has ran well for the last year (about 15K miles) since the rebuild. Except it uses a little bit of oil (1qt every 1500 miles) now and gets about 2 mpg less mileage on the highway (and about the same as before in town).
A few days ago it started missing and sputtering. Engine Codes P1414 (Cyl 4 Reactivation Control Performance, and U0147 (Lost Communication with Telematics Gateway). I have checked the wiring to the MDS with a scan tool. I get voltage to all 4 solenoids when activated. I moved and tugged on the connector and wires and didn't see any signs of a loss of voltage. So, I'm thinking the wiring harness is OK. While I had the intake off, I did go ahead and replace the #4 Cyl Solenoid even though I thought the old one was working by sound and feel when manually activating it. I was hoping that is was just failing intermittenly. However, no change in performance after I test drove. Next on the list was to pull the head and check for oil passage blockage. Seems hard to believe it could be a blocked passage. The solenoid and everything looks very clean. Are there other things I should check before pulling the head? If I do need to look for blocked passages, is there a good diagram of what they look like or how to verify no blockages?
Thanks
 

Burla

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Pull the oil control valve and look for metal there first. Drive with mds off it still runs rank? Try tow haul or manual into 5th.
 
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Dusted75

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Hey Burla, Thanks for the suggestions. Since my post, I have checked the compression in #2 and 4. Both were about 180psi. Pulled the valve cover off that side and cranked the engine. Oil flow was heavier on the intake side (is that normal), but was still getting some oil to all valve stems and rockers looked fine. All valves seemed to move about the same amount also.
I just pulled the intake back off and pulled the oil control valve out. It looks really clean and good. Before I put this all back together and do the test drive that you recommended, is there anything else I should check?
 
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Dusted75

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Update. I realized there are magnets below the MDS solenoids. Pulled them out and found lots of metal shavings on all 4. I'm assuming that was from the cam lob issue from about 1 year ago. I cleaned all magnets and reinstalled everything. I thought that did it, but I was wrong. It ran fine until the engine light went off and the MDS kicked in. It started missing and idling rough. P1414 (cyl 4 failed to deactivate) code came back. I let it sit overnight and ran it It does run fine when I run in manual mode and keep MDS from initiating. I have removed the intake and solenoids again and I ran a weed eater string into the passages on cyl 4 and cyl 1. Seems to go in the same amount in all passages and comes out clean. I'm stumped and don't know what to do next.
 

Burla

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I drove in tow haul for 7 years for a trans shudder issue I fixed and no longer need TH. As simple as this sounds, just drive in manual mode or TH? It sounds as if metal is in the engine, if it were me I'd use what worked as long as I could. Maybe the first cam job was a bad idea? Maybe it needed an engine or pull job at least. I'd keep the mds off and kick that pig good and fun. house money...
 
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Dusted75

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You're probably right. I'll put this thing back together and drive it for a bit as is.
Thanks
 

Burla

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If you have a hard time remembering the popular tuners here will allow you to delete mds. B ut in my experience it was easier and easier to remember to press TH when I started my truck, it became habit. mds is pig sh iet anyhow, the send double the gas to the working cylinders, lol?
 
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Dusted75

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Another update. Just put it all back together and took a test drive. Missing and shuttering all the time now. I have a scan tool hooked up to it. Says #4 cylinder MDS solenoid is active when the other 3 are inactive. It was active even when I was idling. Any ideas what this means? Computer module?
 
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Dusted75

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I don't think my last post was very clear about what i actually did. I had put it in T/H as soon as I started it up. It was idling fine. I took it for a test drive and it seemed fine for the 1st 1/4 mile. I floored it and had plenty of power with good smooth acceleration. After I let off the accelerator, it started missing pretty bad again. I had the scan tool on it. It was showing #4 as being active. I've tried this several times with the same result.
Since my last post, I took it to a local shop. They had it for about 2 weeks and decided it was the PCM. As they were driving it, all solenoids would activate as expected, but they would also get a random signal that #4 (only #4) was active and then it would go away. I ordered a new PCM from Flagship 1. Just got it and installed it. No change in symptoms.
So, now I've changed the PCM, the Wiring harness under the intake and the solenoid on #4. The wires between the PCM plug and the new harness are still original. Is it possible there is an issue with these wires? Is there a good way to check them? Is it possible that a lifter in that cylinder is malfunctioning?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Burla

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I mentioned tow haul because you had a belief it was mds, normally I don'rt mention mds because it would be rare that a misfire was mds related. Your codes suggest it isnt the cam again. You still have the original coil pack on 4? if so switch coil pack see if code travels.

Bad wires usually break a relay, not always but sometimes, and it doesnt sound like you have that. I'm not a real wire guy, maybe someone can help there.

I havent thought about it much in this case, but why isnt the TIPM possible, did the shop say?
 

Burla

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Relays protect items from a high current which can happen with a failed ground or bad wire.
 
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Dusted75

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Just to clarify, at last check yesterday the codes I'm getting are:
P1414, cyl 4 reactivation control performance. It feels like it's missing but, I'm not getting a misfire code.
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A". Assuming this has to do with me installing the new PCM.
U1424 Implausible engine torque signal received.

Interesting, they did not mention the TIPM at all. Is there any way I can test this myself?
I see MAK's TIPM website, you can send it to them to test for $92.
 

Burla

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If you installed a new pcm, first order business I do believe get that flashed. They sell TIPM test kits cheap online, just a wire with a bulb you test the relay related to the item. You need to find out which code is related to which relay. Just google it and check the youtubes, Test TIPM.
 
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Dusted75

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Flagship 1 pre-programs these things to the latest factory specs with you Vin#. Supposed to be plug n play. I spoke to them today, and to my surprise they are willing to take it back if the PCM wasn't the problem. I ship it back to them, they test to make sure I didn't fry it and the will refund my & 280 minus $85. I didn't think they would take a returned electronic part.
Anyway, I'll have to check out the relay testers. It's been hard to find wiring diagrams. From what I can tell from the diagram on the TIPM lid, the relays are all for motors like power seats, fuel pump, wipers etc. Nothing really related to MDS or the engine. Just a fuse for PCM/ECM, that appears to be ok. Does anyone have a good link? Thanks
 
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