2014 5.7L Knock/Tick/Tap?

[Curt Gobbell]

I'd like to provide some closing remarks on this engine repair.

1. Many thanks to all who chimed in and helped.
2. This DIY https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-4th-gen-hemi-cam-installation.82531/ was extremely helpful
3. If you have to do a similar engine tear-down I would like to add the following helpful tips

• go ahead and remove the radiator, transmission lines and A/C lines so you can easily climb in the engine bay and work. It may take 2 hours to remove, but it will be well worth it as you spend 10+ hours bent over working on your engine
• label every connection you disconnect with an "A1" and "A2" label so you can match it up days later
• put all removed bolts back into the hole they came out of (big must)
• while you have items removed, check all pulley bearings, water pump bearing and A/C compressor for play. Now is the time to replace if needed
• if you disconnect your AC lines, be sure to check beforehand if you have R134a or HFO-1234yf fittings. THEY ARE DIFFERENT and HFO 1234yf is much more expensive

 

[Hemi395]

I'd like to provide some closing remarks on this engine repair.

1. Many thanks to all who chimed in and helped.
2. This DIY https://www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-4th-gen-hemi-cam-installation.82531/ was extremely helpful
3. If you have to do a similar engine tear-down I would like to add the following helpful tips

• go ahead and remove the radiator, transmission lines and A/C lines so you can easily climb in the engine bay and work. It may take 2 hours to remove, but it will be well worth it as you spend 10+ hours bent over working on your engine
• label every connection you disconnect with an "A1" and "A2" label so you can match it up days later
• put all removed bolts back into the hole they came out of (big must)
• while you have items removed, check all pulley bearings, water pump bearing and A/C compressor for play. Now is the time to replace if needed
• if you disconnect your AC lines, be sure to check beforehand if you have R134a or HFO-1234yf fittings. THEY ARE DIFFERENT and HFO 1234yf is much more expensive

Great advice[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

[MikeysCars]

Below are pics of the internals after I pulled the heads.

In summary, the engine is a 5.7L from a 2014 Ram with 145k miles. I am the 3rd owner and I got lucky, as I stopped driving the truck after the knock appeared and no extended damage occurred.

After pulling the heads, I found the following;

• one MDS lifter had collapsed due to an internal spring break which wedged the internal portion shut and causing a 1/4" gap between the tappet and the pushrod (#7 intake)
• cam lobes looked great (smooth, no gouging)...had to use a mirror and flashlight on the back one
• lifter rollers looked great, even the failed lifter had a good roller (one roller did have some grinding as I rotated it)
• all pushrods were straight and the ends did not show signs of damage
• oil control valve was extremely clean

View attachment 227745 View attachment 227746 View attachment 227747 View attachment 227748 View attachment 227749

That's one the cleanest 145k engines I've seen. I think you have a lot of miles left in that yet! Good luck!