2014 Power steering failure (intermittent)

[undertow119]

Seems to happen when it's cold outside (below 40), when I start the truck I get a message "Service Power Steering" on the panel and I have no power steering. When the weather is warmer, I have no issue.

Mine is a 2014, but I saw there was a recall on the 2019 Rams for an intermittent power steering failure caused by a loose ground connection. Even though mine isn't part of that recall, I'm pretty sure it uses the same electronic power steering system, so I want to check that connection and see if maybe it's the problem. Trying to avoid a trip to the dealer, and I don't trust them not to try and sell me a new steering rack for $3k when it's just a loose ground connection....

So my question is: Anybody know where that ground connection is? Best I could find from google is that it's the "front fender ground fastener". So I'm guessing somewhere around the front fender (probably driver's side, since it's for the steering module). Anybody know more specifically, before I go out there and crawl around aimlessly under my truck?

 

[Mister Luck]

You know battery voltage can stop your heart so disconnect the negative post clamp before you work on anything electrical it will probably save you from blowing a fuse also.

Your smart to check the ground contact points of the power steering motor.

(I just replaced my ‘16’s original battery@32000mi) my cold cranking amps were low and didn’t want to get stranded, but an under performing battery can affect major electrical components also.

Check your battery voltage and see , it might be time for a new battery or your battery’s charging system may need attention, clean the battery contacts an clamp use some dielectric grease on the ground contacts and battery posts.

 

[Mister Luck]

The ground is directly linked to your negative battery post clamp. HTH

 

[crash68]

You know battery voltage can stop your heart so disconnect the negative post clamp before you work on anything electrical it will probably save you from blowing a fuse also.

To clarify this, straight battery voltage can not overcome the resistance of human skin without some serious amount of help, so unless someone really intends to take themselves out it's not going to happen. Also it's not the voltage that the danger but the current going across the heart that is the issue.
Blowing a fuse and potential electrical damage from shorts is the reason for pulling the negative battery terminal.

 

[Mister Luck]

To clarify this, straight battery voltage can not overcome the resistance of human skin without some serious amount of help, so unless someone really intends to take themselves out it's not going to happen. Also it's not the voltage that the danger but the current going across the heart that is the issue.
Blowing a fuse and potential electrical damage from shorts is the reason for pulling the negative battery terminal.

I guess I’m lucky that way because I’ve had electrical current pass through my hand twice (in my lifetime) from battery voltage leaving second degree burns at the exit points.
The human nervous system is composed of tissues immersed in fluids that contain electrolytes that is similar to a wet acid battery.
Adrenaline a hormone can increase your respiration and bloodflow and the fight or flight response and this alone can stop a heart by sending it into cardiac arrest.
I ‘m not a doctor so I cannot offer examinations to determine the health of those that I offer constructive advice regarding electrical storage devices, I apologize for not communicating this point clearly, and in the future that you would take further issue with my posts in private communication.

 

[Jeepwalker]

There was a post a month or two ago on this very subject. The post was almost identical to yours (you aren't him, are you?) About your yr truck. The guy isolated it down to a circuit board in the front steering. If he heated that area up with the circuit board with a heat gun in the AM it would work. Once it started to work (like he heated it first thing in the morning before starting the tk), it would continue to work. But if he didn't , it wouldn't work. You might look his post up.

At the time the poster claimed there were no NEW power steering units available for sale he could find. If a guy was industrious and knew electronics, I bet you could remove and R&R that circuit board. Or it might be worth contacting places that re-do dash clusters and ECM's and see if they also (or are considering) do R&R on steering circuit boards.

That's all I know. Sorry I can't provide any specific direct repair info however.

 

[Mister Luck]

I’m curious to know if undertow119 has a skid plate under the front crossmember ?

 

[Mister Luck]

Ram 1500 Recall

This recall applies to 2013-2019 Ram 1500 trucks equipped with electronic power steering (EPS). Some EPS gear assemblies may have been built with a contaminated circuit card assembly...

www.autoserviceprofessional.com

Signup for free Look up recalls for your truck on mopar.com by VIN number

or crawl under you truck to see if the part number on your rack matches the ones in the link for auto service professional.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Hopefully after checking the connectors (and maybe circuit-test the ground) ...and possibly adding a separate ground to the rack, will fix your problem.

Because you stated your problem occurs when it gets below a certain temperature outside, please see the following post:

Electronic Steering rack and recall?

I am having what seems to be a common electronic power steering failure where the vehicle does not find the steering rack on start up and sends warning "Service Power Steering". Happens only under 45*F. Stick a heat gun under the rack for a couple minutes and it fires up like normal. Noticed on...

www.ramforum.com

I should have stated more clearly in my previous post, that the steering circuit board is inside the steering rack. Eventually some enterprising dude will dig into it and figure out what the root cause of the failures are ...down to the offending electronic component. That might take a couple more years though.

Hopefully you'll get yours going easily and inexpensively. Let us know what the solution/fix was.

 

[Jeepwalker]

BTW, this should be where the steering electronic controller is located (see img below). You might inspect the wires and the pins to make sure they aren't corroded, pinched, burnt, corroded internally, shorted, etc. Make sure the controller is getting the signal it needs. (after you've cleaned the batt connections and grounds ..and wiggled all the fuses/relays). Run a ground wire from the body right to the rack.

If that makes no difference, you might also apply some heat underneath the board area to warm up the board on cold days and see if that helps. If it does, then you know you've found the culprit -- an intermittent issue at the controller that changes due to temperature. (which is what I suspect is your case).

If it seems to be temperature related at the actual control module, I would suggest removing the board and take it to someone you know who has a pretty good understanding of electronics. Hopefully it isn't encased in epoxy or resin. I doubt it is. While they may not be able to test it off the vehicle, the majority of electronic issues can be determined by simple inspection (bad/cold solder connections, corroded traces, dried or popped capacitors, failed resistors, burnt circuit board, etc), and basic component testing with general electronic tools. Main IC's and processors are very robust, 99% of the time the problems are what I listed above. Intermittent problems sort of point to solder connections (which expand/contract due to temp changes), or have failed after an estimated 5000+ heat/cool cycles (7yrs x 365 x 2-est ave starts per day) ....or failing transistor/capacitor issues which are also affected by temperature. Outright electronic component failure is generally more difficult to pinpoint ..which isn't your case (one positive you have going for you). Heck, you might find 1/2" of water at the bottom of the housing and the board may be corroded. Then you have your answer.





Another option if you locate it down to the controller might be to call these ECM and electronic dash cluster repair outfits and ask if they want to look at your controller. (or buy a replacement controller). Make sure, afterwards, the cover is 100% sealed up with RTV.

Also ....it's not out of the question that the brushes on the enclosed motor are worn to a nub, or a commutator has come off the armature. Or maybe ...just the connector from the circuit board is just not making a good contact (and that's all the problem is). See if you can isolate the problem using the suggestions above and from other guys' responses.

 

[undertow119]

BTW, this should be where the steering electronic controller is located (see img below). You might inspect the wires and the pins to make sure they aren't corroded, pinched, burnt, corroded internally, shorted, etc. Make sure the controller is getting the signal it needs. (after you've cleaned the batt connections and grounds ..and wiggled all the fuses/relays). Run a ground wire from the body right to the rack.

If that makes no difference, you might also apply some heat underneath the board area to warm up the board on cold days and see if that helps. If it does, then you know you've found the culprit -- an intermittent issue at the controller that changes due to temperature. (which is what I suspect is your case).

If it seems to be temperature related at the actual control module, I would suggest removing the board and take it to someone you know who has a pretty good understanding of electronics. Hopefully it isn't encased in epoxy or resin. I doubt it is. While they may not be able to test it off the vehicle, the majority of electronic issues can be determined by simple inspection (bad/cold solder connections, corroded traces, dried or popped capacitors, failed resistors, burnt circuit board, etc), and basic component testing with general electronic tools. Main IC's and processors are very robust, 99% of the time the problems are what I listed above. Intermittent problems sort of point to solder connections (which expand/contract due to temp changes), or have failed after an estimated 5000+ heat/cool cycles (7yrs x 365 x 2-est ave starts per day) ....or failing transistor/capacitor issues which are also affected by temperature. Outright electronic component failure is generally more difficult to pinpoint ..which isn't your case (one positive you have going for you). Heck, you might find 1/2" of water at the bottom of the housing and the board may be corroded. Then you have your answer.


[pic omitted]


Another option if you locate it down to the controller might be to call these ECM and electronic dash cluster repair outfits and ask if they want to look at your controller. (or buy a replacement controller). Make sure, afterwards, the cover is 100% sealed up with RTV.

Also ....it's not out of the question that the brushes on the enclosed motor are worn to a nub, or a commutator has come off the armature. Or maybe ...just the connector from the circuit board is just not making a good contact (and that's all the problem is). See if you can isolate the problem using the suggestions above and from other guys' responses.

Thanks Jeepwalker, for your detailed reply (and it figures it would be a Jeep guy that provides the most helpful response - I miss my Jeep and spending time on Jeep forums where people can figure out how to fix things. Around here it's mostly "take it to your dealer...").

I'm pretty good with electronics and can probably fix it if it's just a bad solder joint or fried cap. Half the battle is finding the circuit board and getting it out of there so I can see what I'm doing...

Thanks for the info!

 

[mfifield01]

I started to have this issue in early March. At first it was intermittent. Then it was every time I started the truck. On occasion, I could drive a few miles, turn off the truck, wait a few minutes, restart, and it would work. I took it to the dealer last week. They are going to replace the whole rack. Luckily, I purchased the Max Care Lifetime warranty. Only negative is lead time on the rack right now.