2014 Ram 2500 5.7 Hemi- No Bus message, dash and wipers go nuts.

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TennReed

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Hello group. Hoping for some advice/help here. Thanksgiving 2022 had my truck towed to dealer (2014 w/140,000m). The dash was flickering, gauges going dead then back on, all the alarms were pinging and flashing, wipers were on and “no bus” message was appearing. Truck died in the drive way. Sometimes it would crank and run fine, then not crank at all. I’ll attach video screen shots of what happening on the dash. Today March 10, 2023 it’s still at the dealer. First it needed a computer/module update, then a battery and a wire($1200) didn’t make it 16 miles before it started again. Then I was told it’s the ABS module, ($700) didn’t make it out of the dealership parking lot this time, truck died and when the tech hooked up to it it would not communicate or read the vin(per the rep). Today I am told they think it’s a wiring harness…that is discontinued therefore they can’t fix it?????? I’ve asked for the part #s to be emailed to me that are discontinued. The GM says the “aftermarket” does not make wiring harnesses. Now they are mentioning I should just trade or sell????

Has anyone had this issue and does any of this make sense??? I get the feeling they don’t know and are just done messing with it. It’s a paid for truck that’s been well taken care of.

Thanks in advance for any help/advice.

Reed
 

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TennReed

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Got the part numbers they say are discontinued.
part # 68210341AC - dash harness
68206884AC- transmission engine harness.

Found the dash harness online, not having any luck on the trans/eng harness. Any idea on where I could get one?
 

Brandon-w

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Sounds to me like several possible issues. Bad battery they can make electronics go real wonky on these dodges. You could have a bad tipm/bcm or grounding issues. Sometimes a scanner that can access other vehicle modules can give you DTC codes.
Do u have alfaobd?
 
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TennReed

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I do not have alphaobd. They did change out the battery and a “module” associated with it. That’s was the $1200 fix early on that didn’t work. Trying to get answers out of the rep has been difficult. Had to show up at the dealership twice because I wasn’t getting a call back after leaving vm’s for weeks at a time.

What would I need for the alphaobd?

For what it’s worth when this started I stopped and had advance pull codes and they were EVAP system codes which ironically were the same ones that popped in 2021 and it turned out the PCM was bad. I’ve asked for the pcm to be checked.
 

Brandon-w

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Alfa could let you access more modules for cheap. And hopefully see what's going on. Also if ur looking for a new pcm might be easier/cheaper to buy one from diablo or hp tuners that's unlocked if u ever Wana tune down the road.
 

smoothee

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I did have all of those things going on with mine, aside from the truck dying. And it ended up being a loose connection somewhere on my center console. I could simulate the issue by striking the dash (after a lot of troubleshooting and looking for loose connections elsewhere). After removing them all and reseating I haven't had the problem since.
Good advice from Brandon also, AlfaOBD a great all around thing to have
 
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TennReed

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Thanks. I think it’s a loose connection somewhere as well. I just don’t think the service center wants to hunt it down. I’m gonna check out the alpha.
 

csuder99

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In this case AlphaOBD isn't of much use without detailed service info and knowledge. Ask around if there is anybody in your area that specializes in *diagnostics* (as opposed to parts changing). Somebody that knows his/her way around a CAN bus using an oscilloscope, not just hit a button and wait for the computer to give an answer.
 

Non forsit

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Been poking around the interwebs, as I have the same problem with my 2019 RAM 5th Gen.

It started with a "Service Shifter" message and then lit up every CEL on the dash. The truck then turned up the radio volume, turned on the wipers of its own accord, kicked the engine fan to full speed, and lost power steering, and the gauges stopped working. The dash stated: "Service transmission continue in D. Do not shift or turn engine off. Until you reach a desired location. You may not be able to shift again until serviced."

I was able to drive it home without power steering. I checked the codes and got the following (21 codes in all): U0001, U0402, U11E4, U0121, P1DD, U02, U0415, U0416, U0101, U110C, U1110, U1412, U110E, U0155, U0212, U11BC.

Took it to a local shop this morning to have them try to chase down shorts, grounds, etc. They seemed to understand the BUS not communicating and were ready to troubleshoot, and "not just push a button on a computer".


https://youtube.com/shorts/rA583BXpBkI?feature=share
 

RamDiver

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Been poking around the interwebs, as I have the same problem with my 2019 RAM 5th Gen.

It started with a "Service Shifter" message and then lit up every CEL on the dash. The truck then turned up the radio volume, turned on the wipers of its own accord, kicked the engine fan to full speed, and lost power steering, and the gauges stopped working. The dash stated: "Service transmission continue in D. Do not shift or turn engine off. Until you reach a desired location. You may not be able to shift again until serviced."

I was able to drive it home without power steering. I checked the codes and got the following (21 codes in all): U0001, U0402, U11E4, U0121, P1DD, U02, U0415, U0416, U0101, U110C, U1110, U1412, U110E, U0155, U0212, U11BC.

Took it to a local shop this morning to have them try to chase down shorts, grounds, etc. They seemed to understand the BUS not communicating and were ready to troubleshoot, and "not just push a button on a computer".


https://youtube.com/shorts/rA583BXpBkI?feature=share

Did you test the battery voltage with the truck off and alternator at high idle before delivering to the garage?

.
 

Non forsit

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Did you test the battery voltage with the truck off and alternator at high idle before delivering to the garage?

.
I did, 12.8V engine off, and 14.3V at high idle. But this reminded me to have them also load test the battery.
 

LeeD

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My daughter had a 2008 Dodge Nitro that would act up like that. Luckily it never died on the road. The wipers would go on and all the gauges would go nuts. Disconnected the battery and connecting the + and - wires together for a few hours would clear it up for a while but the frequency kept getting shorter. I bought a rebuilt PCM and installed it. That seemed to fix the issue.
 

RamDiver

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I did, 12.8V engine off, and 14.3V at high idle. But this reminded me to have them also load test the battery.

Those measurements look good. Yes, a load test with a toaster-style tester would be useful.

battery load tester.jpg


I'd still clean the battery posts & clamps and coat them with a thin layer of dielectric grease.
This action just removes another variable and when chasing electrical Gremlins, that often helps find a solution.

If you complete any of your own maintenance, you should have one of these in your toolbox with a small tube of dielectric grease. I try to clean mine every 6-9 months.

battery post cleaner.jpg



I'd also check the battery ground lead for excessive resistance because it's a painfully simple test and again, removes another potential variable. YouTube has several great videos on this.

The next stop is chasing common grounds. I'd be inclined to start with wherever the PCM is grounded. Google is your friend if another knowledgeable member doesn't speak up first. :cool:

.
 

Non forsit

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Those measurements look good. Yes, a load test with a toaster-style tester would be useful.

View attachment 521711


I'd still clean the battery posts & clamps and coat them with a thin layer of dielectric grease.
This action just removes another variable and when chasing electrical Gremlins, that often helps find a solution.

If you complete any of your own maintenance, you should have one of these in your toolbox with a small tube of dielectric grease. I try to clean mine every 6-9 months.

View attachment 521712



I'd also check the battery ground lead for excessive resistance because it's a painfully simple test and again, removes another potential variable. YouTube has several great videos on this.

The next stop is chasing common grounds. I'd be inclined to start with wherever the PCM is grounded. Google is your friend if another knowledgeable member doesn't speak up first. :cool:

.
Thank you, always appreciate help. I do most of my maintenance, except for this No BUS/BCM issue. My mechanical game is strong, electronics not so much. I've never used dielectric grease on battery posts before, but I will now with how even a minor voltage fluctuation sends the PCM into chaos. I've got a diagnostic shop chasing grounds and connectors right now, as I don't have a scope or the time. And yes, Youtube has been really valuable for all the other work I've done to the truck.
 

Non forsit

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Got word back from the shop, wiring harnesses are good. No corrosion on any connectors, and they were also cleaned during the process. The notorious RF hub behind the rear seat has no signs of water damage. I should be able to pickup the truck today and hope to ask more questions in person.

So it is a mystery still, on why the BUS CAN stopped communicating, which bugs me. It only did it the one time.

I wonder if I should look into something like an Autel or the HF Scanner. Maybe it's time to learn a new skill, since "mini" internets on cars are the way things are going.
 

RamDiver

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Yes, the intermittent electronic Gremlins are often challenging to solve.

I'd hope they load-tested your battery, you might ask about what type of test set they used.
Some users swear by the digital test sets, I'm from the other camp that swears the results are often unreliable from those types.

The analogue toaster variety is much closer to 100% accurate, AFAIC.

I've had a cheapy OBD reader forever that I've used on many vehicles, I have yet to use it on my Ram. As you may know, a security gateway bypass cable is required for 2018+ vehicles.

There are several bypass cables that attach directly to the SGM and for my truck that requires disassembling the dash and pulling the radio, way too much of a PITA.

I recently bought a KaodTech that requires removing 2 screws from the panel below the steering column and takes about 10 minutes to install.


I'd agree with learning more about your truck and all of its electronics unless you have an unlimited repair budget and extra time to shuttle your vehicle back & forth.

There are many knowledgeable members here, ready to help guide you on that journey. :cool:

.
 

Non forsit

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I had the kaodtech SGM bypass installed since a while back I used AlfaOBD to change TPMS numbers and the tire sizes, but removed it once this happened, just in case. On this 5th Gen model, they're easy to remove/install. Taking apart the dash to install the SGM bypass sounds like a PITA.

I have a 20 year old OBD reader that I used to pull the codes for this episode. It worked without the SGM bypass.

I forgot to ask if they toastered or digitally tested the battery. I had them go ahead and clear all the codes, but they felt the CEL was going to come back.

Also, they ended up not charging me since they did not find any shorts/open circuits and no bad wiring or connectors and felt like they had still not solved it. They used a scan tool, but the more I read the more it sounds like this problem probably needs an oscilloscope.

Does anyone have access to the electrical schematics for 5th Gens? Other forums state they are not included with the digital shop manual from Techauthority.
 

GTyankee

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If you have not fixed your vehicle

look in the phone book or online for an Auto Electric Shop

dealerships seem not to know anything, if that software that they have does not tell them what to do.
They rather just throw parts at our vehicles & charge you for their guesses, even if they don't fix the problem, then instead of saying that it did not work, they tell you that it fixed part of the problem.


Find a shop that can chase down the real problem
 

Non forsit

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I've read numerous posts in another forum, that yes, dealerships tend to use the parts cannon on these issues, and their techs are not allowed use their critical thinking skills.

My Rebel is running fine right now, but have lined up a couple Auto Electric shops to take it to, if the CAN BUS issue happens again. Hopefully I'd be able to take it straight there with the issue happening.
 
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