2015 2500 5.7 Overheating

[DodgeV10]

Maybe I'm too picky. Maybe its my OCD. I have a 2015 2500 5.7 single cab long bed 4x4. I just put in a new t-stat and put in new antifreeze with the amount that came out. About 3/4 of a gallon. The OATS stuff. 70-30 mix. However, I mixed it with tap water and not distilled. At 30%, I don't know if that matters.
I have also done the V6 e-fan mod. I did not adjust the computer to turn on the fan sooner.
I have never had a problem driving, tow, or anything I normally do with the truck. I live in Omaha Nebraska. Flat land and major HEATWAVES. Went on vacation pulling my #3500 travel trailer and traveled a crossed the states and everything was well, until I tried climbing the mountains. I saw the needle climbing fast and pulled over just as it "dinged" for overheating. Let it cool. Took my time after that and stopped often until I got to the top. Also had the AC on to keep my fan going. Besides putting in a override switch to keep the fan on with the AC off. What else can be done to help keep the engine cooler? Is there a larger radiator that I can replace it with? Should I put in some aux fans in front of the condenser? Better water pump? Looking for recommendations.
Note: I had taken the manual fan out because it locked on and it sounded like a 747. Major power drain! I figured now was a good time for the e-fan.
Also, Temps for the oil was very hot too. Suggestions on Oil coolers that work are welcomed too.
Thank you for reading this.

 

[62Blazer]

If the factory cooling system was working as designed I wouldn't expect it to have any cooling issues. Even climbing grades pulling a relatively small camper (well, maybe if you were trying to run 90 mph up the grades....). You are focusing on "upgrading" where in my recommendations I would focus on making sure there is nothing wrong with the current cooling system.
Tap water versus distilled water shouldn't cause it to overheat. Typically use distilled water simply because it's "clean" and doesn't have anything in it that could cause deposits in the cooling system over time.
If you running down the freeway at speed I usually don't expect the cooling fan to be the issue. The fan is mainly there to pull air over the radiator when stopped or running slow around town. You are getting a lot of air being forced through the radiator when running 60-70 mph down the road simply from the speed of the vehicle. In any case I'm not a big fan of removing factory designed mechanical cooling fans and replacing them with electric. From my experience over the years electric fans simply don't move as much air as mechanical.
In regards to running the AC, that is putting a higher load on the engine and making it more likely to overheat. If the engine is that hot the cooling fans should be on anyway (just as mentioned above, not sure the impact when on the freeway). If anything you should turn the heater on full blast.........yes, uncomfortable in the cab but it's pulling hot air out of the coolant. The heater core is basically a small radiator and any heat you feel in the cab is being extracted from the coolant/engine.

 

[dieselscout80]

Maybe I'm too picky. Maybe its my OCD. I have a 2015 2500 5.7 single cab long bed 4x4. I just put in a new t-stat and put in new antifreeze with the amount that came out. About 3/4 of a gallon. The OATS stuff. 70-30 mix. However, I mixed it with tap water and not distilled. At 30%, I don't know if that matters.
I have also done the V6 e-fan mod. I did not adjust the computer to turn on the fan sooner.
I have never had a problem driving, tow, or anything I normally do with the truck. I live in Omaha Nebraska. Flat land and major HEATWAVES. Went on vacation pulling my #3500 travel trailer and traveled a crossed the states and everything was well, until I tried climbing the mountains. I saw the needle climbing fast and pulled over just as it "dinged" for overheating. Let it cool. Took my time after that and stopped often until I got to the top. Also had the AC on to keep my fan going. Besides putting in a override switch to keep the fan on with the AC off. What else can be done to help keep the engine cooler? Is there a larger radiator that I can replace it with? Should I put in some aux fans in front of the condenser? Better water pump? Looking for recommendations.
Note: I had taken the manual fan out because it locked on and it sounded like a 747. Major power drain! I figured now was a good time for the e-fan.
Also, Temps for the oil was very hot too. Suggestions on Oil coolers that work are welcomed too.
Thank you for reading this.

Likely the best plan is to PUT the mechanical fan back as it will move more air.

 

[Gr8bawana]

If you never had any problems before perhaps your "upgrades" were unnecessary and caused your current overheating problem. The electric fan in the middle of the radiator is a major blockage to air flow.

 

[DodgeV10]

First. Thank you for all the replies. I did have a problem with the old fan clutch sticking on. This is why I went to the e-fan. It sounds like putting the old mechanical fan back in would solve the problem next time I'm pulling in the mountains. Driving that slow up the mountain and high rpm's would keep it cooler. Now my next question to that. What is a good fan and clutch to put back in? Oem or is there an aftermarket one that will last longer and move air better?

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

First thing here get an infrared temperature gun and measure the temp of coolant at the top hose that is supply from the engine that will be hotter, get the temp at the bottom hose that will be cooler being cooled by radiator and cooling fan, if you don't have a significant coolant drop at the lower hose you may have a clogged radiator, the 2500 had a problem W/ sand castings from the factory that has been known to plug up the heater core and possible the radiator core.

 

[2003F350]

1. Every time I've done a coolant flush or change, it's ALWAYS a 50/50 mix that should go back in...seems to always give the best cooling in almost all situations.

2. I would NEVER replace a mechanical fan with an e-fan, even if the clutch was stuck - a 'stuck on' clutch doesn't reduce power much, it just sounds like a jet engine. It doesn't hurt the power much, especially when trying to pull such a light camper, it's just noisy. If anything, replace the clutch (OEM is fine) and perhaps add an e-fan but not necessarily.

3. Running the AC when the coolant temp is climbing is ALWAYS a bad idea, at minimum you should turn the AC off, if not turn on the heat at full-blast as suggested above. With the AC on you are actually ADDING heat to the system, the heater will REMOVE heat from the system.

 

[62Blazer]

First. Thank you for all the replies. I did have a problem with the old fan clutch sticking on. This is why I went to the e-fan. It sounds like putting the old mechanical fan back in would solve the problem next time I'm pulling in the mountains. Driving that slow up the mountain and high rpm's would keep it cooler. Now my next question to that. What is a good fan and clutch to put back in? Oem or is there an aftermarket one that will last longer and move air better?

If it was relatively recent when you had the fan clutch issue and it was the original part, that means it lasted 9-10 years (a 2015 model year truck could have been built and sold in 2014). That seems pretty good.
I would recommend just replacing with factory style parts.

 

[DodgeV10]

1. Every time I've done a coolant flush or change, it's ALWAYS a 50/50 mix that should go back in...seems to always give the best cooling in almost all situations.

2. I would NEVER replace a mechanical fan with an e-fan, even if the clutch was stuck - a 'stuck on' clutch doesn't reduce power much, it just sounds like a jet engine. It doesn't hurt the power much, especially when trying to pull such a light camper, it's just noisy. If anything, replace the clutch (OEM is fine) and perhaps add an e-fan but not necessarily.

3. Running the AC when the coolant temp is climbing is ALWAYS a bad idea, at minimum you should turn the AC off, if not turn on the heat at full-blast as suggested above. With the AC on you are actually ADDING heat to the system, the heater will REMOVE heat from the system.

I tried taking a Temp reading at the hoses, but my temp gun quit working. Great timing....

A 50/50 mix is standard. However, on the concentrate OEM OAT bottle I used. It also suggested that I could go 70/30 mix for a better cold/heat range. Seeing how in Nebraska, it can get "I have no longer have fingers" cold. And "nuns bursting in to flames" hot. I wanted to try a more range mix. OEM doesn't do it because it cost more to mix it 70(Antifreeze)/30(Distilled water).

Just reading so much on this forum about e-fan and other mods, I thought I would try it. And it worked all great until the engine was really loaded and on a Mountain.

I only ran the AC to keep the e-fan on. I never said it was on cool inside the cab. I also know it was a double edge sword with the AC on. But I didn't want the fan to turn off because it was cool enough at the temp sensor, I wanted it cooler.

Well, I went ahead and ordered a fan clutch. Its not a OEM, but its made by four seasons. Severe duty. If I have to go back to OEM, I will. I am just reading about all these fan OEM clutches failing after a few years I wanted to try something different. I did a lot of reading on types of fan and brands of clutches. Standard duty, Heavy duty, and Severe duty. You always want severe duty, unless your an jerk and are just fixing the truck up to sell it.

I did keep all the old parts from the swap and I am going back to mechanical fan once I get the new clutch.
I will keep you all updated. Thank you again for all the help and support. Opinions are always welcome still.

 

[DodgeV10]

Got a chance to put in a mechanical fan (not OEM brand) and shrouds back in. I do keep all old parts from whatever I remove from my truck just incase. I have had two major heavy trailer pulls in very hot weather in the hills for a fairly good test. And I can say if I had to drive through the mountains tomorrow with my travel trailer that the temps would be fine. Oil temp is still a little too high for me (230+). Maybe its normal. And I don't have any ideas, or got any from others to keep it cooler.
I like thank everyone that had helped me out with recommending putting back in the mechanical fan and not shunning me just because I tried something different when the original failed. The E-fan did work up to a point. Just couldn't keep up when the tough got really really tough.

 

[Wild one]

Got a chance to put in a mechanical fan (not OEM brand) and shrouds back in. I do keep all old parts from whatever I remove from my truck just incase. I have had two major heavy trailer pulls in very hot weather in the hills for a fairly good test. And I can say if I had to drive through the mountains tomorrow with my travel trailer that the temps would be fine. Oil temp is still a little too high for me (230+). Maybe its normal. And I don't have any ideas, or got any from others to keep it cooler.
I like thank everyone that had helped me out with recommending putting back in the mechanical fan and not shunning me just because I tried something different when the original failed. The E-fan did work up to a point. Just couldn't keep up when the tough got really really tough.

You can buy thermostatically controlled oil coolers to help control oil temps.You could even do dual remote filters ,they'll take a few degrees out of your oil temps. With a 180 thermostat and bigassed dual filters,my oil temps hardly ever get over 200 degrees,i won't say they'd drop your oil temps as much,but they'd probably take at least 5 degrees or more out of your oil temps,especially if you combine them with a 180 thermostat.

 

[2003F350]

Got a chance to put in a mechanical fan (not OEM brand) and shrouds back in. I do keep all old parts from whatever I remove from my truck just incase. I have had two major heavy trailer pulls in very hot weather in the hills for a fairly good test. And I can say if I had to drive through the mountains tomorrow with my travel trailer that the temps would be fine. Oil temp is still a little too high for me (230+). Maybe its normal. And I don't have any ideas, or got any from others to keep it cooler.
I like thank everyone that had helped me out with recommending putting back in the mechanical fan and not shunning me just because I tried something different when the original failed. The E-fan did work up to a point. Just couldn't keep up when the tough got really really tough.

Great that the coolant temps are back under control.

That is still pretty warm for oil temps, the only vehicle I've ever had show oil temps like that was my old dually when the oil cooler clogged up and wasn't giving adequate cooling. It sounds high though.