2016 1500 5.7 Died, Please help!

[Jeepwalker]

You might, at some point, if you don't find any relay or other problems, want to dig in to your TIPM and inspect the wiring that feeds to it. There have been a few owners in rust-belt areas who's trucks have developd badly corroded wires at the main TIPM connectors. I mean BADLY corroded ...where it was a real mess (hopefully not in your case). It's been posted on this site ...but I don't have any links. That may not be your case, but at some point you may need to inspect/rule fulty TIPM wiring out of the equation. Or if you find something, then you're possibly onto a possible solution. There are Y/T videos on how to remove the TIPM. It's not terribly difficult. THere've also been reports of fuse terminals pushing up and things you would spot in the process. Just a thought....

 

[Jeepwalker]

Guys, could a win module issue cause this?

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Or possibly RF hub is there any leaks by the driver's side sliding window, hub is mounted behind the rear seat, seeing your remotes aren't working.

 

[Gator Whiskers]

Yes it does

I would disconnect-reconnect every wire connector you can find even if they look like they're seated. Look at the pins when you take them off.
I had an older SUV doing something very similar from a connector vibrating/shaking loose while driving. It drove me nuts for about a week

 

[David James]

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot, I’m new here. This is my first ram, I bought it a few months ago only and this is the first real issue I’ve ran into, however possibly a big one? I looked for a similar thread and I could not find an instance quite like mine.

Was driving my 2016 1500 5.7 Big Horn today, which has just crossed over 60,000 miles, when it turned off while waiting at a stop light. The dash gave me warnings for check engine light, power steering, passenger headlight, electronic braking system, air bags, and possibly more I’m forgetting. Additionally locked me out of the radio and a red light began blinking on the dash. Even after disconnecting battery for a bit I got no crank/no start. After finding the neutral lock out and towing home I scanned the codes and got U0100, Lost communication with ECM/PCM A. I thought it may be a battery since mine was from 2019 so I bought a new one, got nothing. Tried a new 20A fuse for the ECM, I was able to start it again but it **** itself off again with the same codes about a second later. When I remove and replace that fuse I have been able to consistently start it for that 1 second. Actually, I’ve realized since I started writing this earlier, whenever I let it sit for a little while i can briefly start it as well. Regardless, it now throws a second code U1424. I looked at the connections to the pcm box and they look clean. I believe the AC dumps condensate directly underneath/next to the connections/wires, could that effect it? I’m not seeing any blatant broken/disconnected wires. I am unclear about which way to to go next. I am hoping not to have to take it to a shop/dealer and thinking that someone with more experience may be able to point me in the right direction.

If it is of any worth:
-I recently installed an amp/sub in the truck, but ran it for about a week with no issues until today. I also disconnected power from the amp when the truck initially died and have not reconnected since, and am still having the issue.
-It was a pretty hot day and my car sat in the sun for about 8 hours, but I drove for 30 minutes before the car died and to my knowledge all fluids etc. we’re still in regular operating temps when the issue occurred.

Thanks for any help you can offer!!!

Don’t do it yourself or throw parts at it. Take it in to a trusted shop that can do more than pull down codes. That’s is all.

 

[Dusty]

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot, I’m new here. This is my first ram, I bought it a few months ago only and this is the first real issue I’ve ran into, however possibly a big one? I looked for a similar thread and I could not find an instance quite like mine.

Was driving my 2016 1500 5.7 Big Horn today, which has just crossed over 60,000 miles, when it turned off while waiting at a stop light. The dash gave me warnings for check engine light, power steering, passenger headlight, electronic braking system, air bags, and possibly more I’m forgetting. Additionally locked me out of the radio and a red light began blinking on the dash. Even after disconnecting battery for a bit I got no crank/no start. After finding the neutral lock out and towing home I scanned the codes and got U0100, Lost communication with ECM/PCM A. I thought it may be a battery since mine was from 2019 so I bought a new one, got nothing. Tried a new 20A fuse for the ECM, I was able to start it again but it **** itself off again with the same codes about a second later. When I remove and replace that fuse I have been able to consistently start it for that 1 second. Actually, I’ve realized since I started writing this earlier, whenever I let it sit for a little while i can briefly start it as well. Regardless, it now throws a second code U1424. I looked at the connections to the pcm box and they look clean. I believe the AC dumps condensate directly underneath/next to the connections/wires, could that effect it? I’m not seeing any blatant broken/disconnected wires. I am unclear about which way to to go next. I am hoping not to have to take it to a shop/dealer and thinking that someone with more experience may be able to point me in the right direction.

If it is of any worth:
-I recently installed an amp/sub in the truck, but ran it for about a week with no issues until today. I also disconnected power from the amp when the truck initially died and have not reconnected since, and am still having the issue.
-It was a pretty hot day and my car sat in the sun for about 8 hours, but I drove for 30 minutes before the car died and to my knowledge all fluids etc. we’re still in regular operating temps when the issue occurred.

Thanks for any help you can offer!!!

In the SAE code architecture it means communication has been lost between the PCM and a another control module. There are many other control modules that communicate with the PCM (ie: ABS, BCM, etc.) The secondary code you're getting is for a communications loss between the PCM and Transmission Control.

This could mean a circuit loss (open, short, bad ground, loss of power etc.) or a bad module.

Unless you have a schematic and a scanner, the only thing you could do is look for obvious bad connections. Or you good throw money at it and replace modules and still come up empty handed. Some modules are expensive and may cause you a trip to a dealer anyways.

As the previous poster has recommended, seek a reliable repair technician.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 93319 miles.

 

[Big D's Ram]

Electrical stuff in newer cars is so complicated now, I agree you should get it to a specialist to run diagnostics. I had a similar issue and it turned out to be my TIPM, it had condensation in it and needed to be replaced.

 

[Shiva]

The starts/dies situation sounds like the key fob chip reader inside the column where the fob is inserted. Happens while driving on the highway or parked doesn't matter. All dash warnings and dead at the same time. Will restart and then die again. I think there's a timer on the starting circuit for about 10 seconds or so to scan for the chip.
Has happen in my Wrangler and many others. Same part I believe.

 

[rosco11]

When the check engine light starts flashing, it means there is a critical problem. The fact it shuts off again within a minute after getting it started by rebooting the computer means there is a consistant critical problem.

The only thing you are going to accomplish by "tricking" it to start is probably destroy your engine. Take it back to where you bought it if you have only had it a few months. Even if there is no warantee, they may work with you on the price to keep you from spamming how your truck you bought from them had a bad motor when they sold it to you on review sites. If you bought it at a Dodge dealer, even better. Not only will they be inclined to help you, they have the ability to fix the problem.

If you are really really lucky, it will be the computer, but probably not. It sounds like the computer is doing its job to try to keep you from destroying your truck.