2016 ram 1500 rcsb build thread

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6speed4.7

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I hate to say it as I have not used those arms. I hope the left arm also has a mounting point for the e brake cables cause if it does your golden but if it doesn't then your ebrake mounting point is on your right arm as indicated in the photo.

In addition, I'm certain you probably have but need to Tighten up your adjustable nuts on the bars once you got them where you want them. They look loose in photo

Nice bars. Look like my cores
Good catch on the relocation bracket bolts
Doesn’t look like a lot of thread showing past the nut
The Trekline instructions provided did not have any torque numbers
I used torque amounts that varied between 130-150ftlbs, depending on wether it was a top or bottom control arm
Torquing the 16 bolts with no real leverage with limited room, on jack stands- definitely not my favourite part of the job
I also installed extra crush sleeve tubes on the bolts that weren’t included in the kit. I couldn’t get enough torque on the bolts without bending the brackets if it didn’t have the crush sleeve tube
 

6speed4.7

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Sorry, re-read Bigsky’s last post, and I went off on the wrong tangent
Question to the OP what torque numbers did you land on for the control arms and relocation bracket bolts?
Subconsciously, looking at the pictures, I’ve always thought the bolts didn’t look tight- could be way of base- but that would sure be an easy fix…
 
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bonnyjliss

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Everything is tight as far as I know i used some loctite and a impact with 100ft-lbs i'll check them here and there
 
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bonnyjliss

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it slammed really bad with just the beltec drop springs and stock shocks
was better with relocation brackets and qa1s
seems good now, but like is said i need to drive it more
 
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bonnyjliss

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also i used the tremec toolbox app on android to figure pinion angle out before but it looks like the app doesn't exist anymore
 

Wild one

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Everything is tight as far as I know i used some loctite and a impact with 100ft-lbs i'll check them here and there
It doesn't hurt to go over all the bolts every couple months and make sure they're still staying torqued.I don't think a 100 lb-ft is enough on a couple of the bolts,dig up the factory torque specs and use them
 

Bigskyroadglide

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Information from Core 4x4 is 140 ft lbs.

See attached. This is for a 2012
 

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Wild one

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The relocation brackets made it sit too far back

View attachment 560302
Dig out your tape measure and start shortening up your adjustable arms,take your time,and triple check everything so you don't shift/c o c k the rear end sideways,then drive it for a few days with some weight in the box ( a couple 50lb sandbags on each side of the box will work) to settle the springs,then take it in for a good 4 wheel alignment,preferrably at a smaller shop with a grizzled up grumpy old bugger who knows what he's doing :waytogo:
 

Philipw32

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First thing you'll want to do,is check out the driveshaft,if it still has the stock shaft in it,you'll want to get ahold of Matt Fikac at Moes for an upgraded shaft.The 2 wheel drive regular cab shortboxes with the 8 speed are famous for losing the driveshaft and busting the transmission case or poking a hole through the gas tank or doing both. There's even a couple reports of guys losing the driveshaft at 70 mph,but they've usually been above a 100 mph shortly before the shaft exited the truck at 70 mph.
Well, mine just exploded at about 112 mph. 2017 R/T SCSB. 4 hours from home.
 

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Wild one

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Well, mine just exploded at about 112 mph. 2017 R/T SCSB. 4 hours from home.
There's days i'm glad i had a regular cab shortbox 4X4, :waytogo: . My little 4X4 has seen 155 mph,and alot of 140+mph runs on the stock driveshaft. Once i removed the front diff / CV's / front driveshaft it was basically a 2 wheel drive with a good driveshaft,lol.
 

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bonnyjliss

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Dig out your tape measure and start shortening up your adjustable arms,take your time,and triple check everything so you don't shift/c o c k the rear end sideways,then drive it for a few days with some weight in the box ( a couple 50lb sandbags on each side of the box will work) to settle the springs,then take it in for a good 4 wheel alignment,preferrably at a smaller shop with a grizzled up grumpy old bugger who knows what he's doing :waytogo:
The upper arm won't go any shorter
 

Wild one

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The upper arm won't go any shorter
Set your pinion angle then and don't worry about it or else send those arms back and see if they have a shorter set ,or spring for a set of Core arms.
A machine shop might be able to shorten them and rethread them deeper.
Personally have you maybe thought about going back to stock height,as i'm starting to think lowering a truck isn't for you,it's causing you to many issues,and you might be better off with a stock ride height
 

Bigskyroadglide

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In your first photo back at the beginning of the thread, your rear wheels were pushed forward like they normally are when you do the BT kit without relocation brackets. Now they are definitely too far back.

Eliminate variables

Same springs
Different brackets
Different control arms.

I'd put the stock arms back on to see if the wheels came in line. If they do then it's the control arms.

If they do not, it's the brackets.

Eliminate 1 thing at the time.

If the stock arms put your wheels center, then make the adjustable control arms the same length as the stock arms and bolt them in.

Re check your pinion angle then if needed adjust only the TOP arms. Lengthen the arms for negative pinion, (you want to be negative between 1 and 3 degrees) shorten the arms for positive pinion. Again you want to be between 1 to 3 degrees negative.....

My thoughts
 

Wild one

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In your first photo back at the beginning of the thread, your rear wheels were pushed forward like they normally are when you do the BT kit without relocation brackets. Now they are definitely too far back.

Eliminate variables

Same springs
Different brackets
Different control arms.

I'd put the stock arms back on to see if the wheels came in line. If they do then it's the control arms.

If they do not, it's the brackets.

Eliminate 1 thing at the time.

If the stock arms put your wheels center, then make the adjustable control arms the same length as the stock arms and bolt them in.

Re check your pinion angle then if needed adjust only the TOP arms. Lengthen the arms for negative pinion, (you want to be negative between 1 and 3 degrees) shorten the arms for positive pinion. Again you want to be between 1 to 3 degrees negative.....

My thoughts
In post #43 he shows the truck with the brackets and the stock arms,and the wheels are also back in that photo.
 

Bigskyroadglide

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Here's mine on passenger and driver side. I don't think they are supposed to be perfect but they need to be closer than post #110.
 

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Wild one

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This was the way mine sat with the stock arms and the earlier Illicit brackets.They weren't perfect either,but close enough i never worried about changing things.
 

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