A dyno tune is the only way to dial in the correct air/fuel ration across the rpms .. o2 sensors might give you a ballpark figure most tuners will just fatten up the mix to be safe and call it a day.. ..
Look im new to these maf less hemis and how they calculate fuel trims but sure as hell a dyno tune is waaaay safer and makes more HP..
Absolutely agree with the o2 sensors. Like I said it can be done without a wide band but it’s tricky and not the best way to do it.
A dyno and road tune both have their place. Dyno is good for full throttle tuning, even then a dyno can’t 100% replicate driving on the road. It is easier on a dyno obviously to see cause/effect of certain changes like timing.
Ya the dyno is a safer environment for sure compared to the road, but when it comes to tuning driveability. It’s much easier to drive around in real world conditions with your tuner in the passenger seat. Let’s be realistic, most people that are going to supercharge these trucks, it’s their daily driver. During daily driving you maybe spend 5% of the time actually in boost, so tuning driveability is just as important as big numbers on a dyno.
My truck went on the dyno just to see how much power it made and adjust the tune a bit. After that engine blew and had it tuned the second time it never went on the dyno, everything was done doing pulls on deserted roads with the tuner in the passenger seat and a wide band installed.
Tuner I used does a ton of late model boosted truck tuning. For those kind of vehicles he prefers to tune it on the road.
In an ideal world you’d tune on the dyno, get all the WOT work done then go drive it for the road tune to iron out any driveability issues. Im by no means a professional tuner, I dabble a bit in it but I know when to leave it someone else. These are just the opinions I’ve developed myself and from talking/dealing with my local tuners.