2019 drag link in a 2017

[Zack02]

Please let us know how it goes. Did you have your OE link welded or are you just replacing it? Thanks

I'm just going to replace it; waited a year for a 'real' fix. I don't agree welding solves the actual issue, just prevents the nuts from coming loose (which yes, part of the issue). IMO, this is an issue with the threads. Look the conversation here from a Ram-Z forum: /threads/new-recall-for-drag-link-nuts.262611/page-2#post-2175057

omething is bothering me with the measurements in this recall.

If you read the measurement specs page 9 (5.) it says to use vernier calipers to measure and record the major outside diameter of the drag link threads 5mm from where the sleeve was installed.

It says to measure different positions and they provided me with three measurements for the inner and outer drag link. One for the sleeve.

So my values are:
25.4 sleeve largest inner diameter (step 4)

outer drag link 26.77 smallest outer diameter (step 5)

Inner drag link 26.67 smallest (step 5)

The Recall says to subtract the outer from the inner.
26.77
- 25.40
-------------
1.37mm

26.67
- 25.40
-------------
1.27mm

If this number is less than .6 drag link must be replaced, If it’s greater than .6 drag link is ok and continue. .6mm is .024”

There is one problem. These measurements are total so if we really want total thread engagement we need to divide by 2 which would give:

0.685 and 0.635mm If the spec from RAM is correct then .6 divided by 2 would give .3mm or 0.012” of threads. That seems way to little for the strength needed in this joint.

Looking at the table attached. https://mdmetric.com/tech/thddat4.htm
There is no 41mm thread. A conversion gets us to 1 1/4” X 7 thread.

The specs on that thread: http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-standard.htm But I’m not sure how to decipher the minimum and minor axis of the thread numbers given to get the thread engagement desired.

I wonder if RAM has a typo and really needed the measurement divided by 2.

Best spec I can find is in inches for 1.25” thread bolt.

1.1233 Major screw diameter
1.0202 minor nut diameter
Subtract for .1031”

just rounding a little .10” equals 2.54mm

The minimum spec from RAM is .6mm

Something is not right. I’m no machinist so anyone have a background in threads to check my logic?

It must be bigger because if the thread was 25.4 it would not catch on the sleeve which was measured at 25.4ID

the chart I am using, https://mdmetric.com/tech/thddat8.htm

Shows
Diameter D 25.4mm
Pitch dia D2 23.774mm
Minor d3 22.148mm
Thread height H1 1.627mm

For a total interference fit full threads would be 1.627

The 25.4mm looks to be somewhere between 1 1/8 and 1 1/4"

I looked at this chart https://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm

Closest I can find is in the 25mm range
The h3 and h1 measurements for male and female thread heights show for M1.5

h3 .920mm
h1 .812mm

But the way RAM is measuring this number should be doubled for thread height of
1.84 or 1.624

I think RAM’s minimum number of 0.6mm is way to small to keep the link together.

Thanks Joe, for posting a picture of the new assembly...completely different from ours.

 

[crazy jerry]

I'm just going to replace it; waited a year for a 'real' fix. I don't agree welding solves the actual issue, just prevents the nuts from coming loose (which yes, part of the issue). IMO, this is an issue with the threads. Look the conversation here from a Ram-Z forum: /threads/new-recall-for-drag-link-nuts.262611/page-2#post-2175057



Thanks Joe, for posting a picture of the new assembl

I'm just going to replace it; waited a year for a 'real' fix. I don't agree welding solves the actual issue, just prevents the nuts from coming loose (which yes, part of the issue). IMO, this is an issue with the threads. Look the conversation here from a Ram-Z forum: /threads/new-recall-for-drag-link-nuts.262611/page-2#post-2175057

most people dont know it but jam nuts have been around forever. probly since just after the bolt was invented. done properly its a highly reliable system. probly every car on the road with rack and pinion has a collar and two jam nuts on each tie rod. no different than your draglink. but they arent just ordinarlly nuts. theyre full faced nuts butting into a full faced collar. you will see that same full face design on other things such as thuren or carli track bars. actually if you research jam nuts youll see theres some instances of nut loosening if not designed correctly. so far im not convinced theres any problem with threads but rather the nut and collar werent design correct or maybe never tightened proper from the factory

 

[reek]

I finally got around to getting my 2019 drag link installed this weekend. $130 with 2 new nuts.

I assumed there'd be way more disassembly but really, just the passenger side tire. then use the ball joint separator on the 2 ball joints, install new drag link, torqure to 100 ft-lbs, reinstall tire, center steering wheel, tighten adjusting nut to 40 ft-lbs, done. probably less than an hour of work. worth the time and $130 to not think about this recall ever again. unless they now recall the 2019 version....

 

[Zack02]

most people dont know it but jam nuts have been around forever. probly since just after the bolt was invented. done properly its a highly reliable system. probly every car on the road with rack and pinion has a collar and two jam nuts on each tie rod. no different than your draglink. but they arent just ordinarlly nuts. theyre full faced nuts butting into a full faced collar. you will see that same full face design on other things such as thuren or carli track bars. actually if you research jam nuts youll see theres some instances of nut loosening if not designed correctly. so far im not convinced theres any problem with threads but rather the nut and collar werent design correct or maybe never tightened proper from the factory

I don't disagree with what you're saying, but I disagree with how you're saying it.

The outer/inner tie rods are going to adjust and the jam nut will lock it into place. Same with the thuren or carli track bars, there's a fixed portion and the nut locks it in. Everything you reference, does not have two or more items that can generate axial rotation. On the 'old' drag link, there isn't the 'support' of a fixed nut to lock it in place. The recall flat out says that "The outboard steering linkage jam nut may loosen, allowing one end of the drag link, a part that allows alignment adjustment, to unexpectedly separate. Once separation occurs, turning the steering wheel has no effect and there is no way for the driver to control or maintain the direction of the vehicle." This says the nut and collar can 'jam' together, but the second nut is free to rotate on it's own. Like I said, the nuts ARE part of the issue. If the threads weren't also problem, then there wouldn't be recall directions to measure the threads on the repair bulletin. Welding the nuts to collar only prevents them from backing out, it does not change thread engagement, breaks from metal fatigue at the treads, or the bends at the treads.

I finally got around to getting my 2019 drag link installed this weekend. $130 with 2 new nuts.

I assumed there'd be way more disassembly but really, just the passenger side tire. then use the ball joint separator on the 2 ball joints, install new drag link, torqure to 100 ft-lbs, reinstall tire, center steering wheel, tighten adjusting nut to 40 ft-lbs, done. probably less than an hour of work. worth the time and $130 to not think about this recall ever again. unless they now recall the 2019 version....

Mine was delayed 5 days due to being a 'special order.' I hope to have as much luck as you! I think the salt is going to slow me down. Did you submit for reimbursement?

 

[reek]

Mine was delayed 5 days due to being a 'special order.' I hope to have as much luck as you! I think the salt is going to slow me down. Did you submit for reimbursement?

nope. from what I gather, it probably won't even go through. it's not worth the aggravation / time of driving to the dealer, requesting and waiting just to get denied.

Did the same thing on my 17 Mustang GT intake manifold 'tsb'. paid $300 out of pocket to order the new part number, with less than 1 hour of work to swap out a faulty intake. Others that went through the dealer tell tales of weeks of testing, swapping out various injectors and what not only to end up at the 'bad intake' disagnosis. then waiting for ford approval, etc etc.

once (IF) I hear the reimbursements are approved I'll submit receipts then.

 

[Zack02]

[Well this proceed was super easy, up until the point where we could get the top 'link' out. I broke 3 pitman arm putters. Then my helper driller the bolt out and hollowed out the pitman arm. So now, Im having to replace the pitman arm... should be here friday....