2019 Hemi stalling while driving at low speeds not sure the issue

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scooter1968

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2019
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5.7 Hemi
The stalling happens at low speeds thankfully. I don't use the auto start function unless its cold out and since I live in SC it doenst that cold. I'll start the truck up sit there for a min or 2 and put it in drive. usually when I'm lvg the base at low speeds normally around 30-40 mph I'm slowing down and BAM the dash lights up stating shfit to P to start engine, steering goes out, it's like someone just turn the truck off. The first time it happened I thought maybe i sat on the key fob and hit the start button but nope sure didnt. This has happend three times now and I'm glad I haven't been on the interstate. I've taken to the dodge dealer and they have told me no codes have been thrown. Of course not which is hard to believe. Has anyone else had this happen to them, if so have you found out what the cause is? I'm about ready to trade her in and go back to Ford I know don't kick me out for saying that now. Any help is appreciated.
 

KoboldTaco

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Haha well, first don’t go to ford, that will just cause you transmission problems in the future. Every ford I’ve ever owned has been a pile of junk And the transmission experience well, each one ended up sounding like it was filled with corn flakes.

Can you share a bit more about the Truck? 1500, 2500? I see you have the hemi and am curious about how many miles in total on your rig. Did you buy it new or was it used?

I never trust dealerships. Unless you saw the codes, did they mention if you had any stored codes? One might not be active but a stored code could be there giving you a hint.

Don’t overthink it. Start slow and work the problem. Your rig is 2019 so I assume you have had a charging system test conducted? If not and if you have a multimeter you can test that or just take it to any Oriely Auto or AutoZone and they will drag out a load tester. Strange things happen when battery/charging systems issues start in. If that checks out, I’d move to air/fuel systems as my next place to check - could it be a loose fuel pump relay or a failing one? I doubt pump but hey you never know. A lot of guys assume the worst such as the cam death situation. I don't.

It’s the intermittency of it that makes me think it is electrical. A bad short to ground that the engine can’t recover from or some other worn component that might be chewed through by a mouse etc. Cars need three basic things - air, fuel and spark. Easier said than done with today’s modern electronics in them but that is what I can offer. Since you don’t have your own code computer, a proper diagnosis with that should be done. Other indications such as long or short crank after it drops on you will indicate other potential issues.

I have the Autel MK808TS - it's powerful bi-directional capability lets you test a **** ton and if you want to fix it yourself in today's world, you need a code machine with proper testing and diag features. Yeah, it's not a 10K Snap-On Zeus but it does nearly all of the same things And since I'm not a professional mechanic...you get the idea. Today is prime day and it's on sale!
 
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scooter1968

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KoboldTaco thanks for the reply. Yes I bought it brand new in 2019 it had like 323 miles on it. Its a 1500 and I currently have 50127 miles on it. Sure did check the battery with my fluke and she's reading good. The dealership never said if there was any stored codes and I didn't think to ask that but I'll be taking it to an independent shop just to make sure there are no stored codes.​

 

KoboldTaco

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KoboldTaco thanks for the reply. Yes I bought it brand new in 2019 it had like 323 miles on it. Its a 1500 and I currently have 50127 miles on it. Sure did check the battery with my fluke and she's reading good. The dealership never said if there was any stored codes and I didn't think to ask that but I'll be taking it to an independent shop just to make sure there are no stored codes.​

I personally like the independent shop option and that is a completely personal preference. I am not knocking the dealerships…I just don’t trust them, but I am seeing more and more that independent owner-operators are caring more about their customers and their reputation to earn your business again along with your word of mouth. The internet via yelp and other social outlets has made it more important than ever to give a crap.

Good job reading with the fluke. But you can’t check battery load. When you tested it did you check it non-running and running? Anyway, it won’t matter if you are taking it in but even though you might be reading 14V++ on your meter when running, you at least know the alternator is doing its thing but the battery could still be crap causing you issues.

I’ll be curious what the outcome is. @mention me when you find out.
 

KoboldTaco

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Hey @scooter1968 check out this video. I was catching up on my YouTube videos and Rainman Rey who I watch was diagnosing a Chevy, and has intermittent stalling issues and I thought of you when watching. It’s a good video to watch how he goes through the systems and shows how goofy **** can happen when the battery can be the issue. There is more than that he works on for this car, but a good example of working the Issue vs. throwing parts at something :)

 

MADDOG

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It's hard to diagnose when no codes are thrown. I'd recommend you check all the main power connections at the battery, all main power grounds, the main wiring harness connection to the PCM and make sure they are clean, dry and in good repair.

Also, what you are experiencing sounds like something many others here have experienced. Members have found the alternator is not charging the battery, either due to an internal failure or a faulty battery. Also, when running the A/C when the compressor clutch kicks in the belt starts to slip and the alternator revolutions slow down causing a lack of charging and a significant drain on the battery.

Good luck!
 

jeffchoy

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Hemi 5.7

KoboldTaco thanks for the reply. Yes I bought it brand new in 2019 it had like 323 miles on it. Its a 1500 and I currently have 50127 miles on it. Sure did check the battery with my fluke and she's reading good. The dealership never said if there was any stored codes and I didn't think to ask that but I'll be taking it to an independent shop just to make sure there are no stored codes.​

My issue is identical and just started twice this week. Same 50K on ticker.
No MIL.
Just idles won't accelerate and IDLE STOP DISABLED warning appears. Extended crank 30 seconds. Wait 2 minutes, back to normal.
Please let me know your outcome and I'll l let you know mine.
 
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