2022 Audio Upgrade Sanity Check *Update*

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Rob3DR

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First post here. I have read a ton on any Ram forum I could find on this and I'm still reeling.

Just picked up a 2022 Bighorn Quad cab. Perfect in every way save for the 6 speaker system. I enjoy good audio, but I'm not going crazy on this one. I've said that in every vehicle I've owned and always have done a ton of upgrades so take it for what it is.

That said, I was pleasantly surprised with the stock system. I listen to a variety of music and not crazy levels any more. I'd like to keep what hearing I have left.

I like the mid bass and of the current system and the highs are 'ok'. I've read several posts on folks using the FaitalPro 3Fe22 drivers in the dash and being happy with those. My plan is to do that and as well, I have a spare JBL 8 inch powered sub. While not the 'boomiest' of little subs, it's easy to install and should round out a bit of low end if I cross it correctly. I still need to research wire colors to tap into rear speakers for signal.

I've read with the FaitalPro speakers that some had issues with the Metra harness so I will go with the Red Wolf X002IBRG19 and some Crutchfield bass blockers -007BB600.

For 'better' and possibly a touch louder sound without distortion out of my system, does this look about right? Again, not looking for rattling the windows out, just a little more clarity at the highs and lows out of this system. A little more volume would be icing.

Thanks
 
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FL-RAM

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Kind of sounds like you are making it too complicated. If your goal is just a little more volume and clarity, the simple solution is to simply swap out the cheap OEM speakers for some Infinity Refs. You will be amazed at what a difference just putting in quality speakers will make. I did that on my Gen4 6-speaker system and was blown away. I did the same with my current Gen5 Alpine 9-speaker system but only with the rear doors and dash speakers. Again, massive improvement. Just doing that and you might find you don't even need a sub on your 6-speaker system.
 
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Rob3DR

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Thanks for the reply. However, in my reading, I learned that the dash speakers are 8ohm and one needs a resistor on them or you will lose volume on the door speakers. There is also some chatter regarding an ANC module that must be dealt with when replacing the door speakers. As well, rather than replacing all speaker, my proposal is to replace just the dash and add a sub.
Not being argumentative here, just relaying what I've read here and on other forums. I've no first hand knowledge or experience so I very well could be talking out my butt.
As an aside, I've always had a sub... in every car I've owned for the last 40 years. I've tried the route of replacing stock with aftermarket and always found the bass lacking afterwards, even when amped so I'm pretty certain if I replace all the OEM's, I'll still want a sub.
 

FL-RAM

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Thanks for the reply. However, in my reading, I learned that the dash speakers are 8ohm and one needs a resistor on them or you will lose volume on the door speakers. There is also some chatter regarding an ANC module that must be dealt with when replacing the door speakers. As well, rather than replacing all speaker, my proposal is to replace just the dash and add a sub.
Not being argumentative here, just relaying what I've read here and on other forums. I've no first hand knowledge or experience so I very well could be talking out my butt.
As an aside, I've always had a sub... in every car I've owned for the last 40 years. I've tried the route of replacing stock with aftermarket and always found the bass lacking afterwards, even when amped so I'm pretty certain if I replace all the OEM's, I'll still want a sub.
I'd just replace all the door 6X9s and the dash speakers with Infinity Reference and see how you like it. Infinity Refs are the go-to speakers on the Gen5s. Should cost around $250 max on Amazon for all 6 speakers. If you want even more bass you can add something like a Kicker Hideaway later.
 
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Rob3DR

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and thanks again for the reply, sir. It's funny that you reinforced that as this morning, I was thinking that perhaps I should just go ahead and look at the Infinity speakers and may as well just do them all. I'm pretty sure I'll have to bypass the ANC, but that's ok.

I just got this truck earlier this week. Still messing around with Android audio and having some operator issues with it.
 
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brunzca

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and thanks again for the reply, sir. It's funny that you reinforced that as this morning, I was thinking that perhaps I should just go ahead and look at the Infinity speakers and may as well just do them all. I'm pretty sure I'll have to bypass the ANC, but that's ok.

I just got this truck earlier this week. Still messing around with Android audio and having some operator issues with it.
Not 1st-hand experience, as I have a 2021 w/o ANC, but I've done some research while working on my upgrades, and this is some of what I've found that may help you out.

According to a poster on 5th gen, the ANC issues he ran into with the door speaker only upgrades were caused by the speakers' polarity not matching the Metra harnesses, which makes the ANC go haywire. He switched the wires, and it was fine.

I don't know if PAC has come out with an ANC bypass that fits the 2022 yet (I have a 2021, and I know that some of the other units they make don't fit the 22), but this one does.

 
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Rob3DR

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Was just researching ANC and looking at a PAC, but was unsure if it would fit. The one in the link is perfect... Thank you, sir.
I had seen the issues with the Metra harness. I assume that if one bypasses the ANC, it wouldnt matter? Maybe not.

Havent done a proper audio install in quite some time. Things definitely has changed. Used to be quite easy! Now with everything integrated, there is a lot more to research (and pick the brains of those with experience!)
Thanks for the reply
 
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Rob3DR

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So am heeding experience and going with the Infinity speakers. Ordered the ANC bypass. Another question... I am adding the 10W 4ohm resistor, but what about bass blockers for the front speakers...yay or nay? I've seen some do and some dont.
Thanks, all
 

brunzca

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Was just researching ANC and looking at a PAC, but was unsure if it would fit. The one in the link is perfect... Thank you, sir.
I had seen the issues with the Metra harness. I assume that if one bypasses the ANC, it wouldnt matter? Maybe not.

Havent done a proper audio install in quite some time. Things definitely has changed. Used to be quite easy! Now with everything integrated, there is a lot more to research (and pick the brains of those with experience!)
Thanks for the reply

So - You do want to ensure the polarity is correct on your install, just to get the best sound, regardless of the ANC. Since you will have the bypass installed, if it's reversed (polarity) it won't case the droning, but it still won't sound as good.

It's pretty easy to tell whether or not it's correct, though. If you are utilizing one of the harnesses (Metra or one of the generic equivalents), once you have the speaker connected, fire it up, send a signal to it before you put the doors back together. If the speaker cone "bumps" out when bass hits, it's connected correctly (positive to positive/negative to negative). If it "bumps" inwards, then the polarity is reversed (positive to negative, and vice versa)

I've personally used the harnesses, and none of mine were reversed. But, plenty of others were. I don't know if it's just some batches of harnesses, or models of trucks, or what.

I'm not sure about the resistor and bass blockers.. However, the front speakers are crossed over w/factory to handle low frequency only (at least in the Alpine system, maybe the 6 speaker system is different) - so it seems counterintuitive to add bass blockers.
 
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Rob3DR

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I'd read about some of the harnesses being incorrect, but didnt know the trick with the cone so appreciate that.
Took me a couple times reading, but I follow you on the droning now. In fact, I'd seen that demonstrated in a video.

From my reading, I've found that the factory system is not crossed over anywhere, however I think the Infinity 3.5's do come with little caps so I did not get bass blockers.

So aside from the ANC bypass I ordered courtesy of your link, and also a set of 1/4 inch 6x9 spacers for the front doors, here is what I now have ordered. I think/hope I got it all.

Infinity Reference 3.5


https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Ref...6859&sprefix=infinity+reference,aps,85&sr=8-5


speaker harness for 3.5


https://www.amazon.com/72-7902-Spea...658579651&sprefix=Metra+72-7902,aps,79&sr=8-3


Infinity Reference 6x9 2 pairs


https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Ref...sprefix=infinity+reference,aps,85&sr=1-3&th=1


Speaker harness for 6x9's


https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Harn...58579556&sprefix=metra+72-6514,aps,167&sr=8-5

10W 4ohm resistor
https://www.amazon.com/Resistors-Wi...=10+watt+4+ohm+resistor&qid=1658581834&sr=8-3
 

blackbetty14

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Did similar with my 18 and the 9 speaker apline system. JBL clubs in the 3 dash (2ohm), stock front doors (mids only) rear doors are JBL clubs. Infitinity tweeters in the surround sound ceiling speakers and Pioneer 8" shallow in the stock sub enclosure. Then tapped the factory sub with a converter and added another 8" kicker shallow in a home made fiberglass box under rear driver seat (I made it so I can keep the fold flat floor) and power that with a Alpine 350W RMS mono amp. System is very clear and gets good solid clean low with the factory and added sub. I normally only crank it up to 20 which is like 1/2-5/8 to full power and its more than loud enough. I actually turned the sub equalizer down alot as it got too boomy.

This doesnt apply to your 5th gen but factory dash are crossed over highs only, front doors get mids/lows. Rear doors are full range and headliner surround sounds are highs only so I didn't need bass blockers or crossovers.

In my 14 with the base 6 speaker I did 4ohm dash and needed 4ohm 10w resistors to crank down the brightness and I upgraded all the doors and added a single shallow 12" sub at 400W RMS. Like you I've had systems in all my cars and will always!

Infinity and JBL's are good speakers - can't go wrong with them.
 

Atcer2018

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So am heeding experience and going with the Infinity speakers. Ordered the ANC bypass. Another question... I am adding the 10W 4ohm resistor, but what about bass blockers for the front speakers...yay or nay? I've seen some do and some dont.
Thanks, all
Allow me to add a bit more confusion. I liked your original idea of only replacing the dash speakers. The dash speakers set up your soundstage. High frequencies are very directional and their placement determines if our ears hear the vocals properly. Closing your eyes with music playing you should be able to place the horns, cymbals, a guitarist moving across the stage as the music plays. So here is my point. The OEM setup splits the front channels with a passive crossover using frequency blocking capacitors. Your dash speakers get the highs and the front doors get the lows. When we upgrade the speakers people typically go with better multiway speakers without caps. Essentially you’ve now just added a second soundstage by putting speakers with tweeters in the front doors. You have the dash speakers creating the intended soundstage and now door speakers creating a new soundstage down around your ankles. Search this forum for folks asking why their new speaker upgrades sound muddy and lack clarity. The original OEM setup used the front door speakers as woofers and the dash as the tweeters like something found in a component system but using cheap paper cone speakers. IMHO it’s a mistake to use multi way speakers in the front doors. I’d go with a mid/woofer or a full range with a cap on it to block the highs. I know many people will disagree with me as we all have our own tastes and preferences. Just more food for thought.
 
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Rob3DR

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yes... so my plan is to do the front speakers first. Then just add the front door 6x9's after the dash speakers and test. If not good by my ears, then I'll take them out. If no real improvement with the door speakers, then I'll remove them and return them. Should be easy enough. Will be in stages as I go through. Lastly, I can add the sub. I've got a spare JBL 8inch powered sub laying around that should be a quick install.
Really dont see me adding an amp at this point. As long as it's clean sound, I'm good with moderate volume. (I said that with the last vehicle too and ended up amping everything)
 
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Rob3DR

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and actually, we may both be in the minority, but that's been my experience as well when replacing OEM with aftermarket. The soundstage just seems off. I tend to like a brighter sound with punch and typically keep treble and bass turned up and mid turned flat or just above. Everyones taste is different. It's my hope that I'll be blown away with the dash speakers in the current system and then can just concentrate on throwing in the sub and cross it to give a little more punch that the OEM door speakers cant deliver. Either way, I'll have all on hand (barring shipping delays) to experiment this weekend and can return what I dont use.
Thanks for the reply!
 

Atcer2018

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yes... so my plan is to do the front speakers first. Then just add the front door 6x9's after the dash speakers and test. If not good by my ears, then I'll take them out. If no real improvement with the door speakers, then I'll remove them and return them. Should be easy enough. Will be in stages as I go through. Lastly, I can add the sub. I've got a spare JBL 8inch powered sub laying around that should be a quick install.
Really dont see me adding an amp at this point. As long as it's clean sound, I'm good with moderate volume. (I said that with the last vehicle too and ended up amping everything)
Excellent plan! You may want to try and cap the front doors also to cut the high freqs even if you use two or three way speakers just to see how it sounds. The caps are cheaper than buying multiple speakers. I know many people like the multi way front door speakers because they are “louder” you probably already know that subs and mids are harder to drive than highs so the multi way front speakers typically have a higher efficiency rating. This makes them sound louder because of the tweeter efficiency. Does nothing for clarity but will increase your SPL with the same power output.
If you do decide to go with a power adder I can recommend the kicker key amp. It’s small and fits up under the dash easily. It’s also cheap and has a built in DSP. It also works really well with a high level auto turn on t-harness to eliminate hacking the factory wiring. No I don’t work for kicker but I do like their key amp and their mid woofer 6x9 speaker for the front door.
 
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Rob3DR

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I've heard the 'key amp' being discussed in my reading, but to be honest, I've not researched it . Just been trying to concentrate on the short term first and not overload my brain..haha. If the key amp is anything like the little Alpine power pack, then I'm familiar. I've used two of them before. Was amazed that a small amp could be thrown inside a dash and not overheat. Much different from when I was younger and had these huge amps that needed airspace and such
 

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I installed the FaitalPRO speakers and have been very happy with them.

I love good sound but not quite the audiophile I was decades ago when I would dump my wallet out to get great sounds all the way up until my ears bled. Nowadays I just want some good sound that I can hear when I'm on the freeway and the windows are down.

Adding the new dash speakers (with bass blockers), along with playing with the EQ, and I'm happy for now. Maybe some day I'll add a sub to round out the lower end of the sound profile but this is enough to keep me happy. I keep thinking about toying with the doors but I don't want to deal with bypassing the ANC and checking polarities...at least not yet.

One of the reasons I went this route was to keep the OEM impedance (8 ohms for the dash speaker in the base 6-speaker audio) so that I did not alter the balance of the sound since it is bridged with the front door speaker. Yes I could have added a resistor but that is just lost audio power across the resistor.
 
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Rob3DR

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So a little of an update. Firstly, I'd like to describe my preferences as best I can because I think that's important to anyone who may be researching this as I have been. I like most music with the exception of Rap. 80's and 90's Country and Rock are my two go to's. I like crisp highs, perhaps more than some folks and tight, punchy bass. I typically have treble max or near max, bass at max or near max and mid flat or slightly above.

I've had systems with full on amped speakers and subs all my life, but am at the stage now where I prefer a little less volume and less 'boom, boom'.

I have in hand two sets of Infinity 6x9's. The Infinity 3.5's are running late. Because I had hoped to tinker with the truck this weekend, I had the wife run out to a local stereo shop on her way home from work. I had looked and found some Kicker 3.5's there online and I can just send the Infinity speakers back (Thank goodness for Amazon returns). Unfortunately...or perhaps fortunately... she returned with some Hertz 3.5's instead. They were a bit more pricey than the Kickers and I didnt want to make the 45 minute one way trip back out there so this afternoon, I installed the Hertz. I had the Meta harnesses already. Everything went as easy as could be and I tested with one speaker in and the difference in my base 6 speaker system was dramatic. To my ears, I found no polarity issues, or perhaps I just got lucky.

I installed the other and now the soundstage is right up front, where I like it. I didnt install the 4 ohm resistors and these are 4 ohm speakers. I also didnt install bass blockers. I was able to turn the volume up around the 30 mark with no noticeable distortion. Previously, I had my treble maxed. I did need to back off of it 2 clicks.

Tomorrow I will throw in the Infinity rear door speakers to see what difference is made, but first I need to research to see if that will mess with the ANC. As far as I can tell, it wont with the rear door speakers. If anyone knows for sure, let me know. I'm hoping I'll get a little more midrange fill and perhaps some 'tighter' bass out of these.

To round out the system, I'm going to install a powered sub. Nothing crazy, just the Kicker Hideaway 10 inch and set crossover on it to compliment the system.

Very pleased with the front speaker install, though likely would have been just as happy with the Kickers or Infinity 3.5's as well. Despite the ohm difference, I didnt feel these overpowered my front door speakers at all and I'm actually happy with the mid bass that comes from them. My fear is if I replace the front door speakers, I will alter the sound stage too much so I will leave them as is. Depending on what I find out tomorrow, I may end up returning two sets of Infinity speakers.

So that's where I'm at. Again, I know sound and preferences are subjective and I've tried to give my 'likes' as best I could so that if someone else looking has the same preferences, they might be able to follow suit.
 

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Hi, I am also trying to find the right balance with staging and get an overall flat frequency response, all by playing with new speakers only. I have the Alpine system but was not happy with the muddiness. I ended up buying inexpensive Infinity 6x9 for all four doors and the dash. When I installed them I noticed the sound stage moved from the front dash to the rear seat. This is because (as Atcer mentioned) the front doors have the high end cut out and the rear doors do not. When I added the 3 way speakers in the rear all the additional treble moved the sage to the back, which I did not like.

I ended up swapping the front and rear feeds on the right and left doors. (pretty easy, you can find the twisted pairs in the kick panels and this diagram shows the wire colors for front and back doors (look for the "non-amplified" colors) https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/ar...78_electrical/2018-body-wiring-diagrams-r593/)

Now that I have the rear feed driving the front speakers they are full range and the stage moved back to the front, the rear is all ~2000Hz and below because of the filtering, so the stage stays up front.

I completely agree that everyone has their own preferences and no one person is more right than another, but this is what finally got the staging where I wanted it.
 
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Rob3DR

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Interesting concept on switching the leads! I didnt get to test 6x9's this weekend as I had no adapters and dont want to cut wires. They will be here this week along with some nerf boards for the sides that I'll install. Will see how all goes at that point.
 

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