2022 PW Need help with wiring new lights with Spod And potentially needing diodes?

[Dannycameo]

On my new new 2022 power wagon power wagon the upgrades Continue.
Need a little help from Guys with experience with Wiring.
1st here is the list of Parts and where they are to be mounted,
- Randy Ellis designs lightbar
- Spod BantamX HD
- 4 Rigid 6 inch 360 series with Amber backlighting, for front light bar
- 4 Rigid 4 inch 360 series with Amber backlighting, 2 on each side on ditch mount brackets
- 2 Rigid Ignite flush mounts, in rear bumper

Took the Wagon to my buddies shop, it's a big off road chain of stores, won't name it.

- Randy Ellis designs lightbar installed
- S pod BantamX HD, installed including HD screen in Cab
- 2 of the 4 Rigid 6 inch 360 series with Amber backlighting, on front light bar installed
- None of the Rigid 4 inch 360 series with Amber backlighting, 2 on each side on ditch mount brackets have yet to be installed
The Rigid ditch light brackets did not fit on divers side, bracket got bent in shipping. Was making contact with hard plastic below windshield wipers, only on driver's side.
Rigid is sending out a new set, as a backup, I bought a another brand on Amazon just in case the 2nd set does not fit. Long story yes hood was marked properly and spoke to Rigid Tech support 2 times.
- 2 Rigid Ignite flush mounts, in rear bumper installed

Here is the question at hand,
Now I asked Tech to Wire the rear 2 Rigid Ignite flush mounts to reverse lights, as so when in reverse, lights come on and you can also control them with Spod HD button. I have this set up wired this way on my JK with 2 Rigid 6 inch light bars in bumper, Yet no Spod.
*Tech says he is worried to wire the 2 small Rigid Ignite flush mounts to reverse lights with the Spod, as he thinks it might send power back down the line back to ECU. Says might need diode on each light? Is this the case? Are diodes needed?
*Tech also said he could not wire front lights to driving lights, so backlighting is on when Truck is on, once again he has the same worry about sending power back to ECU because of Spod and said again we will need diodes to wire it up this way.
Is this true? Or is he being lazy? He said he is not 100% sure yet doesn't want to chance it with ECU on new PW.
Now I called Spod Tech Support and they said no you don't need a diode for each of the situations I just described. Tech and buddy who is Manager of Shop are not so sure.
They suggested asking on here if anyone has wired up lights to reverse lights this way OR if anyone has aftermarket lights with backlighting wired up to driving lights. Without diodes? With an Spod
My Brother is an electrical engineer, yet is away on business trip and the brief time I got to speak with him, he said he doesn't know enough about Spod's to say definitely. He wants to look into Spods more before saying for sure.
I know this may or may not be complicated and possibly some of you have and Spod and have wired lights up this way. If so please let me know!
As I mentioned without the Spod I have this wired up on my 2015 JK with no problems at all.

 

[crash68]

Tech says he is worried to wire the 2 small Rigid Ignite flush mounts to reverse lights with the Spod, as he thinks it might send power back down the line back to ECU. Says might need diode on each light? Is this the case? Are diodes needed?
*Tech also said he could not wire front lights to driving lights, so backlighting is on when Truck is on, once again he has the same worry about sending power back to ECU because of Spod and said again we will need diodes to wire it up this way.

For the rear flush reverse lights, wire them to the 7pin trailer plug reverse wire, no worries about back feeding as it's relay fed from it's own circuit (you can pull the fuse for it).
As for the front lights, use a relay to isolate them from the driving lights.

 

[Dannycameo]

For the rear flush reverse lights, wire them to the 7pin trailer plug reverse wire, no worries about back feeding as it's relay fed from it's own circuit (you can pull the fuse for it).
As for the front lights, use a relay to isolate them from the driving lights.

Thanks a ton!

 

[62Blazer]

Are you sure he doesn't mean a relay and not a diode?

 

[Dannycameo]

Are you sure he doesn't mean a relay and not a diode?

Good Question? Relay or diode

 

[Dannycameo]

For the rear flush reverse lights, wire them to the 7pin trailer plug reverse wire, no worries about back feeding as it's relay fed from it's own circuit (you can pull the fuse for it).
As for the front lights, use a relay to isolate them from the driving lights.

On the driving lights is it a Relay or diode?

 

[crash68]

On the driving lights is it a Relay or diode?

I would use a relay to isolate any of the light you want to operate from the headlights/running lights.

 

[2020PW]

Are you asking for a gated diode or thyrector?

FYI keep it simple. As was said before use the trailer wiring harness as you can pull to much voltage through the canbus system and fry the computer. Vehicle’s are complicated and sensitive to current draws. Never tap into a wire just because you know it has power without knowing the current draw and capacity of the circuit.

 

[62Blazer]

After going back and re-reading the post I think I understand the concern. You want the extra reverse lights to come on when you put the truck in reverse (along with the factory reverse lights) but you also want the option to turn on the extra reverse lights via a switch (sPOD) at anytime. The issue is if you manually turn on these extra reverse lights they will then power the factory reverse lights and continue to send power up through the factory circuit and transmission shifter switch, possibly making the truck think it's in reverse even if not. So yes, because of that you would want a diode in the circuit connected to the factory reverse lights to prevent back feeding power through the reverse circuit when you manually turned the extra reverse lights on.

 

[Dannycameo]

After going back and re-reading the post I think I understand the concern. You want the extra reverse lights to come on when you put the truck in reverse (along with the factory reverse lights) but you also want the option to turn on the extra reverse lights via a switch (sPOD) at anytime. The issue is if you manually turn on these extra reverse lights they will then power the factory reverse lights and continue to send power up through the factory circuit and transmission shifter switch, possibly making the truck think it's in reverse even if not. So yes, because of that you would want a diode in the circuit connected to the factory reverse lights to prevent back feeding power through the reverse circuit when you manually turned the extra reverse lights on.

I have the exact same set up in my 2015 JK just without the S pod Paul with rigid rigid 6" light bars in the bumper they are wired to a switch instead
They come on when it's in reverse as do the reverse lights
Yet I can control them from the switch separately as well when needed
Those are wired through the trailer lights there are no diodes Involved in that wiring setup
The only difference here is that we have an S pod

 

[Dannycameo]

For the rear flush reverse lights, wire them to the 7pin trailer plug reverse wire, no worries about back feeding as it's relay fed from it's own circuit (you can pull the fuse for it).
As for the front lights, use a relay to isolate them from the driving lights.

I know it's been a while we're just finishing up the wiring there was a delay in getting the 2nd set of ditch lights.
I have a follow up question.
I have an S pod BantomX Installed we put it in the same time.
Going off the 7 pin trailer harness is that still the easiest way? or is using the input Controls on the Spod Easier and safer? I'm not sure if it's easier To use the Spod inputs, as then you would have to run a wire from the reverse light all the way up to under the hood, to the input if I am correct. The Tech seemed to agree after we talked about it yesterday.
The plan was moving forward that if there was power to that 7 pin harness at all times, and not just when a trailer was connected, then that was the route we were going to go. As you Suggested The 1st time. We were going to check that this morning If there was continuous power To the 7 pin harness.
Also I always gotta ask this question since it's a 2022 and under warranty, does spicing into the trailer wiring harness void any electrical warranty claims I might have? If you would know.

 

[crash68]

Going off the 7 pin trailer harness is that still the easiest way? or is using the input Controls on the Spod Easier and safer? I'm not sure if it's easier To use the Spod inputs, as then you would have to run a wire from the reverse light all the way up to under the hood, to the input if I am correct. The Tech seemed to agree after we talked about it yesterday.

If all you want is the reverse lights to do is turn on when your in reverse then wiring straight to the 7pin reverse terminal/wire is the easiest.
If that Spod has individual SPDT relays, I would probably wire the output of the 7 pin to the NC contact the flush mount reverse lights to the common and the NO contact to the battery (w/fuse). That would give you the option to turn them on independent of backing up. Could prove useful if your stuck somewhere and need light behind the truck. The other option would be to wire it up the same way but use an ON-OFF-ON SPDT switch which would give you the ability to keep the flush mount rears off.

The +12V in the 7 pin should stay hot all the time. Unless it's a crappy splice job there shouldn't be any issues with warranty

 

[Dannycameo]

If all you want is the reverse lights to do is turn on when your in reverse then wiring straight to the 7pin reverse terminal/wire is the easiest.
If that Spod has individual SPDT relays, I would probably wire the output of the 7 pin to the NC contact the flush mount reverse lights to the common and the NO contact to the battery (w/fuse). That would give you the option to turn them on independent of backing up. Could prove useful if your stuck somewhere and need light behind the truck. The other option would be to wire it up the same way but use an ON-OFF-ON SPDT switch which would give you the ability to keep the flush mount rears off.

The +12V in the 7 pin should stay hot all the time. Unless it's a crappy splice job there shouldn't be any issues with warranty

Thanks! So we basically did that and ran it off the 7 pin and everything's working except, the S pod BantomX is picking up what it thinks is a short, yet after talking to their Tech support, there's basically a backfeed coming to the Spod, so we need a Diode.
My only concern and I don't know much about this obviously! is it possible if we don't use the right diode that there could be a voltage drop and the reverse lights and the Flush mount lights could not be as bright after installing the 5 or 6 amp diode?
Should we use a Schottky type, to limit voltage drop? Or am I overthinking this?

 

[crash68]

My only concern and I don't know much about this obviously! is it possible if we don't use the right diode that there could be a voltage drop and the reverse lights and the Flush mount lights could not be as bright after installing the 5 or 6 amp diode?
Should we use a Schottky type, to limit voltage drop? Or am I overthinking this?

Your overthinking it. As long as the Diode can handle the forward current the amount of voltage drop will be minimal (in the tenths of a volt), not enough to affect brightness as a lot of LEDs use voltage regulating power supplies built-in.
There's diodes like the ones from Roadmaster that handle gobs of current and are sealed in epoxy, probably overkill but what's a little over engineering gonna hurt... LOL. Whatever the tech your working with usually uses is probably more than up to the job.

 

[socalexpeditions]

Definitely need a relay!