2026 Upgrades and Updates

[Tray Burge]

Doing several updates and upgrades this year.
First off, my seats finally arrived today, couldn't be happier, but hopefully they'll hold up as well as my Jeeps seats have?

As you can see, my Air Grabber is still holding up great, but not without a major design flaw in the throttle body air intake hose I made when designing it.

Secondly:
Updated and improved my Air Grabber throttle body intake, as you can see the old intake hose I made was restricted because of the notch (see "C" notch at the front) I had to make to accommodate the AC lines, plus I discovered it wasn't sealing either. This effectively reduced my air intake by half, plus it was sucking air in the gaps, not good. This is what obviously caused the big hesitant air "gulp" it made before launching off the line.

The cure. I cut the intake out of my Vararam pan and repositioned it to the back of the pan and plastic welded it in place along with welding a plastic cap over the old hole so I could bypass the AC lines. I used 4 ply turbo hosing this time.
Wow, what a huge difference it made. After resetting the PCM and test driving it, it literally lunges off the line now without any hesitation. What an improvement it made.

Thirdly:
I finally figured out the engineering to make my aluminum butterflies work in unisome on my Six Pack scoop which has been the major hold up on getting it finished. The scoop's going on after I get the paint or wrap on, I'm just trying to decide how to finish off the butterflies, polish, paint not sure just yet. The inside will be painted orange like my Air Grabber. The butterflies operate effortlessly and smoothly now just like they do on a blower. They will be operated by a waterproof linear actuator mounted on the inside of the scoop and will attach to that lever you see on the right side of the scoop. I missed my calling, I should have been a design engineer instead of a graphic designer, oh well, too late now.

Give me your thoughts on how to finish the aluminum butterflies, should I polish, paint, or go brushed on them? The scoop will be satin hot rod black.

 

[Tray Burge]

deleted

 

[Tray Burge]

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Open link for the butterfly function, I could watch this all day. lol
Kinda stumped me for a bit, but I finally figured out the linear actuator linkage stroke too since the pivot arm for the butterflies moves in an arch. Should have a shot of the whole assembly before too long after my parts come in.

 

[grizzstang]

Looks good. I would paint the outside of the butterflies the color of your truck so they stand out a little on the black hood scoop.

 

[Wild one]

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Open link for the butterfly function, I could watch this all day. lol
Kinda stumped me for a bit, but I finally figured out the linear actuator linkage stroke too since the pivot arm for the butterflies moves in an arch. Should have a shot of the whole assembly before too long after my parts come in.

It's not hard to figure out what stroke actuator you need.I use linear actuators to control the valves on my 300's exhaust.I put the later 2.75" exhaust with the active exhaust valves on the car,and use linear actuators and fabbed up brackets and arms to open and close the valves off a double throw rocker switch mounted in the console.The car never had the active exhaust,so it has nothing to control the flaps inside the exhaust.Took all of maybe 15 minutes to figure out what stroke i needed using a tape measure
If i remember right i used a pair of these little guys,but it's been a few years since i installed the exhaust .

Micro Linear Actuator, 2" Stroke Small Electric Linear Actuator, 12V DC Built in Limit Switch, Mini Actuator Motor for Home Appliances/Medical/Automotive/Industry,(Stroke: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Micro Linear Actuator, 2" Stroke Small Electric Linear Actuator, 12V DC Built in Limit Switch, Mini Actuator Motor for Home Appliances/Medical/Automotive/Industry,(Stroke: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[diymirage]

That intake looks liek you wish you had a duster instead of a truck

 

[Tray Burge]

That intake looks liek you wish you had a duster instead of a truck

69 Charger or Road Runner would be nice?
But, I would still keep the truck.

 

[Tray Burge]

It's not hard to figure out what stroke actuator you need.I use linear actuators to control the valves on my 300's exhaust.I put the later 2.75" exhaust with the active exhaust valves on the car,and use linear actuators and fabbed up brackets and arms to open and close the valves off a double throw rocker switch mounted in the console.The car never had the active exhaust,so it has nothing to control the flaps inside the exhaust.Took all of maybe 15 minutes to figure out what stroke i needed using a tape measure
If i remember right i used a pair of these little guys,but it's been a few years since i installed the exhaust .

Micro Linear Actuator, 2" Stroke Small Electric Linear Actuator, 12V DC Built in Limit Switch, Mini Actuator Motor for Home Appliances/Medical/Automotive/Industry,(Stroke: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Micro Linear Actuator, 2" Stroke Small Electric Linear Actuator, 12V DC Built in Limit Switch, Mini Actuator Motor for Home Appliances/Medical/Automotive/Industry,(Stroke: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Thank's WO, that's exactly how I figured out the stroke, just waiting on my parts to arrive now. I have a waterproof, heavy duty acuator and remote control box with limit switches on the way.

 

[diymirage]

69 Charger or Road Runner would be nice?
But, I would still keep the truck.

I would love to have a 71 roadrunner, always loved that model satellite

 

[Wild one]

Thank's WO, that's exactly how I figured out the stroke, just waiting on my parts to arrive now. I have a waterproof, heavy duty acuator and remote control box with limit switches on the way.

Don't go to heavy on the actuator,as you don't want it overly strong,otherwise you run the risk of breaking the scoop if it does go into a bind. I wouldn't go for anymore then 15 lb-ft actuators. The ones i use in the exhaust are more then enough to open the valves even with my foot stuck through the floor and the engine is creating a pile of exhaust flow.I run catless ,so it has even more exhaust flow then it would if it was catted. The ones i linked to seem to be fairly good,as they've been under the car for going on 4 years,and that's on a car that gets used through Canuck winters,so they get their fair share of abuse with ice and snow,i do give them a spray with light duty 3 n 1 oil twice a year,but that's all they've gotten for maintence since i installed them.

 

[Tray Burge]

Good info, didn't really consider that, mine might be too strong then? I'll make sure it can't bind, but if I have to step it down these things are way cheap.
I'll make sure to vet it before the final assembly too.
Because it'll be mounted on the inside of the scoop it'll be working from a full extension then retracted only 2.5". It'll have to pivot on each end so the opening will actually have to be a slight crescent hole to accommodate this.
I only want the rod showing out of the side of the scoop, not the actuator.

 

[Tray Burge]

@Wild one
Back to the drawing board, the controller I ordered doesn't control the limit(s), plus I'm gonna step the actuator down to around 15ft/lbs too as you suggested since I have to reorder everything.
Did you use a controller with limit control board or just used an actuator with the throw you needed?
My problem is, everybody makes one in a 2" or 3" throw, but I need exactly 2.5".
Any suggestions before I reorder again. Hey, you have a great "fabbing" mind, can you think of any way to get the 2.5" without using an LAC board? I'm thinking some type of .5" pivoting spacer attached to the end of the piston? What are your thoughts?
Thank's for your help btw.
Tray

 

[Wild one]

Change the length of the arm on the flapper.I set the length of the flapper arm i fabbed up so that i could use an off the shelf 2" actuator and used the actuators own limit switches. The length of the flapper arm will determine how much actuator travel you need.
I'd try and move the arm to the inside of the scoop if possible. If the rod that sticks out the side of the scoop can be slid back slightly,you should be able to fab up an internal arm,and tack weld it in place.
If you get some pics of the underside of the scoop showing the flapper and it's pivot rod,it'd be easier to help you out.
These are probably the ones you'd want,as you could fab up a stud for them to pivot off.Something like an 8/32 screw would make a stud lots strong enough for the actuators mounting points.

NORJIN Mini Electric Linear Actuator DC12V, Waterproof Mini Linear Motor Actuator with Mounting Brackets, Thrust 60N Speed 15mm/s (50mm Stroke Linear Actuator) : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

NORJIN Mini Electric Linear Actuator DC12V, Waterproof Mini Linear Motor Actuator with Mounting Brackets, Thrust 60N Speed 15mm/s (50mm Stroke Linear Actuator) : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.ca

 

[Tray Burge]

Change the length of the arm on the flapper.I set the length of the flapper arm i fabbed up so that i could use an off the shelf 2" actuator and used the actuators own limit switches. The length of the flapper arm will determine how much actuator travel you need.
I'd try and move the arm to the inside of the scoop if possible. If the rod that sticks out the side of the scoop can be slid back slightly,you should be able to fab up an internal arm,and tack weld it in place.
If you get some pics of the underside of the scoop showing the flapper and it's pivot rod,it'd be easier to help you out.
These are probably the ones you'd want,as you could fab up a stud for them to pivot off.Something like an 8/32 screw would make a stud lots strong enough for the actuators mounting points.

NORJIN Mini Electric Linear Actuator DC12V, Waterproof Mini Linear Motor Actuator with Mounting Brackets, Thrust 60N Speed 15mm/s (50mm Stroke Linear Actuator) : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

NORJIN Mini Electric Linear Actuator DC12V, Waterproof Mini Linear Motor Actuator with Mounting Brackets, Thrust 60N Speed 15mm/s (50mm Stroke Linear Actuator) : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.ca

Changing the length of the arm and/or position of the actuator sounds like the easiest solution, I want the arm mechanism to show. There's actually a formula for that, but I suck at math, but great at visuals.
Formula: To operate a 2.5" arc throw using a 2" stroke linear actuator, use a lever mechanism (linkage) to amplify the motion by a ratio of 1.25 : (2.5/2 = 1.25)
You probably get this, but it's over my head, I was just gonna get the actuator and move it around until I found the right spot. lol
EDIT: My arm is 1.5" pivot to pivot point, so according to AI, the actuator needs to be mounted roughly 0.5 to 0.75-inch horizontal offset from the pivot when the arm is in its starting position.

 

[Wild one]

Changing the length of the arm and/or position of the actuator sounds like the easiest solution, I want the arm mechanism to show. There's actually a formula for that, but I suck at math, but great at visuals.
Formula: To operate a 2.5" arc throw using a 2" stroke linear actuator, use a lever mechanism (linkage) to amplify the motion by a ratio of 1.25 : (2.5/2 = 1.25)
You probably get this, but it's over my head, I was just gonna get the actuator and move it around until I found the right spot. lol
EDIT: My arm is 1.5" pivot to pivot point, so according to AI, the actuator needs to be mounted roughly 0.5 to 0.75-inch horizontal offset from the pivot when the arm is in its starting position.

Looks like you'd need an arm about an 1" long using your formula (2" actuator movement / 2 = 1" lever). That sounds about right as i think the arms i made are about that length,and they'd be virtually the same,as the amount of shaft movement wouldn't change,just the length of the arm.
I had room to set the lever so it's the same angle whether it's open or closed,just opposite angles,so i got away with mounting my actuators basically level with the exhaust,but you won't have that option inside a scoop,so the 1/2" to 3/4" angle offset is probably pretty close,but if both ends of the actuator are mounted on pivots,you could probably fudge those numbers a bit,as the actuator would pivot with the levers movement a bit

 

[Tray Burge]

@Wild one
Whew!
What a pain, but finally ordered what I'm sure will be correct this time.
Plug-n-play Molex connectors between the actuator, remote control and battery, a little pricey at $200 bucks, but I'd rather pay now rather than later- great quality too, Progressive Automation.
Wild one, I really appreciate all your input and help figuring this out.

 

[Tray Burge]

Seats are in, the wife says hers is a little low so I'll need to raise it, no biggy. I really like the Sparco's, but if you're a fatty, don't get these because you won't fit comfortably.
I also made a switch plate out of 5mil carbon fiber for my electric seat controls that turned out real nice, so I also installed a genuine carbon fiber interior kit too. I have a couple of more pieces coming so I'll show the dash when finished, you gotta be careful not to go overboard and plaster this crapp everywhere and only stay in places that make sense, imo. The only fake (albeit a good one) is the cup holder.
My steering wheel update is arriving next week too so I'll get one shot of all that together (wheel's top & bottom are black carbon fiber with perforated leather sides with red stitching).
The actuator came in, but I ordered the wrong controller so I'm waiting on that to finish my hood scoop.

 

[Wild one]

Seats are in, the wife says hers is a little low so I'll need to raise it, no biggy. I really like the Sparco's, but if you're a fatty, don't get these because you won't fit comfortably.
I also made a switch plate out of 5mil carbon fiber for my electric seat controls that turned out real nice, so I also installed a genuine carbon fiber interior kit too. I have a couple of more pieces coming so I'll show the dash when finished, you gotta be careful not to go overboard and plaster this crapp everywhere and only stay in places that make sense, imo. The only fake (albeit a good one) is the cup holder.
My steering wheel update is arriving next week too so I'll get one shot of all that together (wheel's top & bottom are black carbon fiber with perforated leather sides with red stitching).
The actuator came in, but I ordered the wrong controller so I'm waiting on that to finish my hood scoop.

View attachment 582684
View attachment 582683

Curious to see how they are on a 5 hour trip,and whether they work better then the stock seats on a long trip

 

[Tray Burge]

Curious to see how they are on a 5 hour trip,and whether they work better then the stock seats on a long trip

They're very comfy to me, but I'm not a big guy either- reason for the disclaimer for those considering them. Certainly way better and comfy than stock though.
My PRP's in my Jeep are probably the most comfortable seat I've ever sat in, but they're suspension and total out around $1,200 per seat with sliders.
lol, you assume I'd drive this truck for five hours-oh He// nope. lol
Plus they're Adi approved too!