3.55 Rear End Finally Giving Way?

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Dusty

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How to Diagnose Axle & Differential Noise


Warm the axle and differential components and fluid by driving the vehicle at least ten miles.

Growling or whine noise that occurs only at a specific speed range (straight-ahead driving)​


On a straight, smooth and level road, bring the vehicle past the speed that produces the noise. Shift the vehicle out of gear and coast down through the speed range where the noise is usually heard. If the noise stops or changes significantly:

Low or insufficient differential lubricant

Expired or contaminated differential lubricant; incorrect viscosity or lubricant

Incorrect ring gear backlash

Incorrect pinion depth

Incorrect pinion-to-ring gear tooth contact

Worn or damaged front pinion bearing

Damaged ring or pinion gear teeth

Incorrect carrier housing offset or squareness

NOTE: Noise in a specific speed range can also be initiated during acceleration or light load constant speed.

On a straight, smooth and level road, load the differential by accelerating the vehicle:

If noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is defective

On a straight, smooth and level road, unload the differential by coasting the vehicle:

If noise occurs, the front pinion bearing is defective


Constant Noise (any speed)

Worn or damage pinion bearings

Worn or damaged differential bearings

Worn or damaged axle bearings

Noise occurs on turns only​

Worn or damaged differential side gears or thrust washers

Worn differential bearings or thrust washers

Worn axle bearings

Vibration
Defective or out-of-balance tire(s)

Damaged, bent or out-of-balanced wheels

Damaged or bent drive shaft

Out-of-balance driveshaft (missing weights)

Loose or unevenly torqued wheel lug nuts

Worn U-joints

Weak coils or loose or broken rear spring leaves

Damaged axle shaft bearings

Loose pinion gear retaining nut

Excessive pinion yoke run-out

Bent axle shaft(s)

Low Speed Knock​

Worn U-joint

Worn side gears or side gear thrust washers

Worn pinion shaft bore in the carrier housing

Driveline Snap -Clunk or Snap sound when vehicle placed into Gear,

Clunk or snap when changing gears


High engine idle speed

Transmission shift operation (automatic)

Transmission shift operation (manual – operator)

Loose engine, transmission, or transfer case mounts

Worn U-joints

Loose spring mounts

Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
___________________________________________________________________
Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 74378 miles
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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How to Diagnose Axle & Differential Noise


Warm the axle and differential components and fluid by driving the vehicle at least ten miles.

Growling or whine noise that occurs only at a specific speed range (straight-ahead driving)​


On a straight, smooth and level road, bring the vehicle past the speed that produces the noise. Shift the vehicle out of gear and coast down through the speed range where the noise is usually heard. If the noise stops or changes significantly:

Low or insufficient differential lubricant

Expired or contaminated differential lubricant; incorrect viscosity or lubricant

Incorrect ring gear backlash

Incorrect pinion depth

Incorrect pinion-to-ring gear tooth contact

Worn or damaged front pinion bearing

Damaged ring or pinion gear teeth

Incorrect carrier housing offset or squareness

NOTE: Noise in a specific speed range can also be initiated during acceleration or light load constant speed.

On a straight, smooth and level road, load the differential by accelerating the vehicle:

If noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing is defective

On a straight, smooth and level road, unload the differential by coasting the vehicle:

If noise occurs, the front pinion bearing is defective


Constant Noise (any speed)

Worn or damage pinion bearings

Worn or damaged differential bearings

Worn or damaged axle bearings

Noise occurs on turns only​

Worn or damaged differential side gears or thrust washers

Worn differential bearings or thrust washers

Worn axle bearings

Vibration
Defective or out-of-balance tire(s)

Damaged, bent or out-of-balanced wheels

Damaged or bent drive shaft

Out-of-balance driveshaft (missing weights)

Loose or unevenly torqued wheel lug nuts

Worn U-joints

Weak coils or loose or broken rear spring leaves

Damaged axle shaft bearings

Loose pinion gear retaining nut

Excessive pinion yoke run-out

Bent axle shaft(s)

Low Speed Knock​

Worn U-joint

Worn side gears or side gear thrust washers

Worn pinion shaft bore in the carrier housing

Driveline Snap -Clunk or Snap sound when vehicle placed into Gear,

Clunk or snap when changing gears


High engine idle speed

Transmission shift operation (automatic)

Transmission shift operation (manual – operator)

Loose engine, transmission, or transfer case mounts

Worn U-joints

Loose spring mounts

Loose pinion gear nut and yoke
___________________________________________________________________
Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, factory dual exhaust, 18” wheels. Build date: 3 June 2018. Now at 74378 miles

The fluid was changed i think 50K miles ago. It may have been 40K though.

Status update: I took the rear diff cover off and found absolutely no metal anywhere and the fluid looks clean still. I lifted up the back end and threw the truck into drive and confirmed that the noise is coming from the rear end too.

Also, it may have been the wrong viscosity/damaged as i haven’t seen consistent answers on what the 3.55 takes. I tried the coasting method from 55 MPH and the noise nearly went completely away, still could hear it a tiny bit though. I wonder what’s going on. Pretty much nothing on the differential magnets too, just very small amounts of very fine material.
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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Here’s a video of the sound. It’s not that loud in video but just imagine it 10x louder at cruising speed.
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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I am going to try running solid Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer in the differential and see if it changes the sound. No harm no fowl if the differential is already shot.
 

Wild one

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I am going to try running solid Lucas HD Oil Stabilizer in the differential and see if it changes the sound. No harm no fowl if the differential is already shot.
You're 2013 diff will call for 75W-140
 

Midknight

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I just had my 3.21 rear diff rebuilt. Had loud whine that was only getting worse. Replaced fluid first just to check and everything looked fine. Still had whine so took it to specialty diff shop near by. They test drove it and confirmed the rear needed work. Because of mileage they recommended replacing ring and pinion while in there. The gears were almost impossible to find so they let me hunt down the parts. I ended up just paying labor and providing a master rebuild kit, ring and pinion, axle bearings and seals. After the work was complete he stated the pinion bearing was shot, just grinding when turned. I was very happy with the work and am almost done with the 500 mile break in before doing the fluid change.
 

DILLIGAF

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It takes a professional to set it & they use gauges

Dont sell yourself short. Its not that hard... lol... If My dumb*** can figured it out anybody can.

Its a driveway job, not heart surgery.
 
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TheEnder

TheEnder

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Solved the issue.

Drained the fluid in the diff, came out so metallic i could paint a house with it.

Going in for service on the 29th.
 

HammerHead

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The fluid was changed i think 50K miles ago. It may have been 40K though.

Status update: I took the rear diff cover off and found absolutely no metal anywhere and the fluid looks clean still. I lifted up the back end and threw the truck into drive and confirmed that the noise is coming from the rear end too.

Also, it may have been the wrong viscosity/damaged as i haven’t seen consistent answers on what the 3.55 takes. I tried the coasting method from 55 MPH and the noise nearly went completely away, still could hear it a tiny bit though. I wonder what’s going on. Pretty much nothing on the differential magnets too, just very small amounts of very fine material.
My 2013 had the same issue, turned out to be the Pinion Bearing.
 
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TheEnder

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Truck is in for service now. Will let everyone know what’s happening tomorrow as they have to check & advise.
 
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TheEnder

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Hello everyone,

Dealer got back to me yesterday on estimate and what is wrong. Dealer tech said that there were chunks of bearing material in the differential & that the magnet had chunks of the same material on it. Every *single* bearing was completely wiped out but somehow the case was still fine and in reusable shape. The estimate is $2196, but as since im not in any sort of shape to repair it myself i am going to let them handle it. Take this as a note to ALWAYS occasionally look under your vehicle once a month (or even once a week) for leaks coming out of anything. I got lazy and this happened. Still, first major failure this truck has ever had in the 10 years of ownership + it managed to tow a trailer near the tow rating of this truck with the rear end this bad.
 

huntergreen

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Hello everyone,

Dealer got back to me yesterday on estimate and what is wrong. Dealer tech said that there were chunks of bearing material in the differential & that the magnet had chunks of the same material on it. Every *single* bearing was completely wiped out but somehow the case was still fine and in reusable shape. The estimate is $2196, but as since im not in any sort of shape to repair it myself i am going to let them handle it. Take this as a note to ALWAYS occasionally look under your vehicle once a month (or even once a week) for leaks coming out of anything. I got lazy and this happened. Still, first major failure this truck has ever had in the 10 years of ownership + it managed to tow a trailer near the tow rating of this truck with the rear end this bad.
So, a leak caused the failure ?
 
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Hello everyone,

Dealer got back to me yesterday on estimate and what is wrong. Dealer tech said that there were chunks of bearing material in the differential & that the magnet had chunks of the same material on it. Every *single* bearing was completely wiped out but somehow the case was still fine and in reusable shape. The estimate is $2196, but as since im not in any sort of shape to repair it myself i am going to let them handle it. Take this as a note to ALWAYS occasionally look under your vehicle once a month (or even once a week) for leaks coming out of anything. I got lazy and this happened. Still, first major failure this truck has ever had in the 10 years of ownership + it managed to tow a trailer near the tow rating of this truck with the rear end this bad.
For that price just get it regeared to something better ... that is way too much man sorry, I wouldn't pay that especially at a dealership ....
 

Dodge 1500 4X4

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Probably wiped out the pinion bearing, and it took out the axle bearings with the contaminated fluid.
 

Wild one

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I’m pretty sure, only thing i can think of that could. It wasn’t even that low, just maybe half a fingernail low.
Don't you have 200,000+ miles on the truck?
 

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