37" MTs with which gear, 4.88 or 5.13?

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crazy jerry

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think i forgot to mention the axle gets pulled to passenger side with 1" spacer and no frame bracket also. doesnt get pulled a mile but enough that i noticed right away and honestly it was bugging me. so the bracket is necesarry imo, if for no other reason than simply to center the axle back up. some folks may not notice or care about centered axle and feel the bracket is unecesarry, even though i feel the bracket has the benefit of better ride, besides just recentering axle. to each their own i guess
 

olyelr

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think i forgot to mention the axle gets pulled to passenger side with 1" spacer and no frame bracket also. doesnt get pulled a mile but enough that i noticed right away and honestly it was bugging me. so the bracket is necesarry imo, if for no other reason than simply to center the axle back up. some folks may not notice or care about centered axle and feel the bracket is unecesarry, even though i feel the bracket has the benefit of better ride, besides just recentering axle. to each their own i guess


Thanks for the info man, I will be sure to order the bracket when I get around to getting after the suspension on my truck....sounds like its a worthwhile addition to me. Thanks for posting up your findings!
 

crazy jerry

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with a coil spring /link arm /tracbar system ,unfortunatly the axle range of travel cant be perfectly straight up and down as physics wont allow it. theres always some degree of circular arc to the range of travel because the tracbar says so. but you can decrease the amount of lateral travel and keep the axle going sort of straight up and down as much as possible. this is the theory behind thurens bar and axle side bracket. by lengthening the bar and raising its axle side pivot point (flattening its angle) , it decreases its lateral travel and helps its travel be more vertical as much as possible. its late now but tomorow i can make a diagram showing how it all works as you increase/decrease the bar angle or lengthen/shorten the bar itself. after the rear spacer is installed, the frame side bracket simply gets the axle back closer to center and puts the bars angle back near what it was before the spacer and puts the axle range of travel back to before the spacer install
 

olyelr

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with a coil spring /link arm /tracbar system ,unfortunatly the axle range of travel cant be perfectly straight up and down as physics wont allow it. theres always some degree of circular arc to the range of travel because the tracbar says so. but you can decrease the amount of lateral travel and keep the axle going sort of straight up and down as much as possible. this is the theory behind thurens bar and axle side bracket. by lengthening the bar and raising its axle side pivot point (flattening its angle) , it decreases its lateral travel and helps its travel be more vertical as much as possible. its late now but tomorow i can make a diagram showing how it all works as you increase/decrease the bar angle or lengthen/shorten the bar itself. after the rear spacer is installed, the frame side bracket simply gets the axle back closer to center and puts the bars angle back near what it was before the spacer and puts the axle range of travel back to before the spacer install


Yea I understand how that all works. I just figured Thurens setup was so much longer/flatter than stock, that the frame bracket wouldnt be all that beneficial for a 1” spacer. But if the axle is off center at ride height, I dont really want that if I can help it.

The front axle should be slightly off center with Thuren springs, and if a longer track bar is installed it will cause clearance issues at full compression without added bumpstops. That was my main concern with the bracket in the rear.

Thanks for the info!
 

crazy jerry

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since beneficial and necesarry are terms defined differently by different people, heres what i could tell everyone about the frame bracket. if you use a rear spacer in addition to the thuren coils and bar/ bracket, drive the truck first and see if your happy with it. if it drives to your satisfaction and you dont mind the axle shifted a hair to the passenger side then just call it a day. the axle shift may not be as noticable with tires tucked farther under the fenders. mine are wider and stick out farther so axle shift is more easily noticed. as for handling with and without the frame bracket, its not worlds different but i did use my truck for a while with the spacer and no frame bracket. it drove fine but i liked it better after putting on the bracket. alot of people may be perfectly happy without the bracket. decide for yourself is all i could say
 

olyelr

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since beneficial and necesarry are terms defined differently by different people, heres what i could tell everyone about the frame bracket. if you use a rear spacer in addition to the thuren coils and bar/ bracket, drive the truck first and see if your happy with it. if it drives to your satisfaction and you dont mind the axle shifted a hair to the passenger side then just call it a day. the axle shift may not be as noticable with tires tucked farther under the fenders. mine are wider and stick out farther so axle shift is more easily noticed. as for handling with and without the frame bracket, its not worlds different but i did use my truck for a while with the spacer and no frame bracket. it drove fine but i liked it better after putting on the bracket. alot of people may be perfectly happy without the bracket. decide for yourself is all i could say


Yea, either way will work. I would prefer a centered axle myself.

I think more pics of your truck are due!
 

crazy jerry

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For the gear change are you having to use a ring spacer for the front and pinion conversion bearings for the rear? Getting ready to do my gear swap and doing all my research.

my front just showed up. picked up the rear and most of the other necesarry parts a while ago. hope to get everything installed before to long but who knows with the current world situation. what i now know is my truck and wyram truck and likely every gen4 wagon with elec cad has factory installed 1/4" spacer so no addition parts are needed in the front. just gearset, ring gear bolts, crush sleeve, some bearings and seals could be reused if you so desire or go all new. im most likely going to replace everything in there just so its all fresh at the same time

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crazy jerry

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heres a tip for using the traxda 1" rear spacer. traxda sort of dropped the ball and overlooked something i feel is important. once the spacer is installed ontop of the top rubber isolator, theres now nothing to hold the spring assembly concentric to the frame tower . what i did was get a piece 3"×2.75" 1/8 wall dom tube and cut small pieces about 13mm or 1/2" iirc. then weld it into the center of the spacer. now the top frame tower slides into the welded in tube and holds the spring centered

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