392 Swap - High Oil Temps - What Would You Do?

[1SLwLS1]

So I got it hooked up this past Friday and I got it done with two wrenches but probably won't try that again given the choice. I had 8 fittings to install, 2 60-degrees and 6 straight fittings. The 60-degree fittings were pretty easy due to the larger landing but I rounded 2 of the first straight fittings until I contorted my body in a more efficient/stable manner. The straight fittings have such a small, narrow landing, it made it a bit difficult. Either way, she is hooked up now.

I didn't have to remove the deflectors on the grill as positioning with my brackets was fairly limited but I can always move it later and chose the easy route for now. I wanted to see how well it performs with the sport grill before opting for the honeycomb grill. This morning, a bit warmer than previous mornings, I peaked at 210F on the 90MPH cruise on the freeway, probably would've been 220F+ with old cooler setup, but with the RP filter, pressure cruising was 59-60 PSI at that temperature, compared to around 53-54 PSI with the previous cooler setup. Idle once warm never fell below 48-49 PSI, and the temperature fell much quicker once I moved away from freeway speeds/RPM. She was hovering around 195F before reaching the freeway on the country backroads (60ish MPH) and once on the FM roads after the freeway (60-65 MPH with traffic lights), she was around 200F. I didn't go WOT at all but at one point I did reach about 4800 RPM and had 68 PSI of oil pressure so I am much happier with the RP filters and larger AN lines, much less pressure drop at RPM. Before at WOT I had about 63 PSI when hot with the cooler. I will see how it is this afternoon with higher temperatures, more traffic, and typically heavier load for the real comparison results - I will make a new table tomorrow.

I also ran the lines and mounted the cooler in a position where I could relatively easily lower it for accurate oil level measurement. Since the cooler is mounted with the inlet/outlet on it's side, the cooler slowly drains back to the pan and I was able to fill the cooler by running it for 5 minutes, lower the oil cooler below the pan, shut off the truck, make sure the dipstick was full to the normal indicated mark, then re-install the cooler, wait a while and find the new level. It's at the first bend in the factory dipstick about an inch or so above the factory full mark.

As for the filter, I had 3 more 20-820 oil filters so I bought both threads (M22x1.5 & 3/4"-16) for the remote filter mount and started with the M22x1.5 to use up existing inventory. I have 2 30-8A filters and the 3/4"-16 filter mount ready to install once I exhaust the existing inventory.

I am really impressed with the -10AN lines and RP filters as the pressure is so much better with these items, the small fram filter just had too much pressure drop and at WOT I think the -8AN lines were just too small. I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch but if these pressures continue and probably improve slightly with the larger filter, I will forgo the hellcat oil pump and stick with this setup as-is. I usually pay more for quality products but have been frugal lately as we are building and its so stupid how much we are paying now vs what we could've been paying before had everything gone to plan. Anyhow, buy once, cry once, don't forget, even though I sometimes do. I am also excited for the amount of shop towels that will be saved with the new filter location and how clean the top of the rack and crossmember will stay.

 

[danielmid]

That looks killer, and that is a huge cooler! Those are good results, I'm happy to see them. Interesting about the drain back also, I guess I had assumed the thermostat unit would keep the cooler from draining.

Only thing I might suggest is to add some AN clamps for the lines running up to the cooler to keep them from being floppy, even if you can only get 1 or 2 on, something like these:

 

[1SLwLS1]

That looks killer, and that is a huge cooler! Those are good results, I'm happy to see them. Interesting about the drain back also, I guess I had assumed the thermostat unit would keep the cooler from draining.

Only thing I might suggest is to add some AN clamps for the lines running up to the cooler to keep them from being floppy, even if you can only get 1 or 2 on, something like these:
View attachment 517867

That's not a bad suggestion, they are quite heavy and can put a load on the o-ring adapter fittings into the cooler, already had hell tightening those and trying to keep them from un-tightening the flare-oring adapters.

 

[1SLwLS1]

That looks killer, and that is a huge cooler! Those are good results, I'm happy to see them. Interesting about the drain back also, I guess I had assumed the thermostat unit would keep the cooler from draining.

Only thing I might suggest is to add some AN clamps for the lines running up to the cooler to keep them from being floppy, even if you can only get 1 or 2 on, something like these:
View attachment 517867

For the drain back, since thermostat allows around 10% flow all the time, it will drain back in the this position.

I have considered something like this but I wanted one I could temporarily open to allow drain back during oil changes, or I could have simply mounted the cooler with both connections on top and never get drain back either. That is a problem for down the road, haha.

 

[danielmid]

That's not a bad suggestion, they are quite heavy and can put a load on the o-ring adapter fittings into the cooler, already had hell tightening those and trying to keep them from un-tightening the flare-oring adapters.

Might be tough with the way you have the lines run, but you could also do a longer bolt through the clamp to secure the lines to the shroud or the frame or whatever also.

 

[1SLwLS1]

Might be tough with the way you have the lines run, but you could also do a longer bolt through the clamp to secure the lines to the shroud or the frame or whatever also.

I have riddled that radiator support with rivnuts, I could probably find one and make good use of it.

 

[Wild one]

So I got it hooked up this past Friday and I got it done with two wrenches but probably won't try that again given the choice. I had 8 fittings to install, 2 60-degrees and 6 straight fittings. The 60-degree fittings were pretty easy due to the larger landing but I rounded 2 of the first straight fittings until I contorted my body in a more efficient/stable manner. The straight fittings have such a small, narrow landing, it made it a bit difficult. Either way, she is hooked up now.

I didn't have to remove the deflectors on the grill as positioning with my brackets was fairly limited but I can always move it later and chose the easy route for now. I wanted to see how well it performs with the sport grill before opting for the honeycomb grill. This morning, a bit warmer than previous mornings, I peaked at 210F on the 90MPH cruise on the freeway, probably would've been 220F+ with old cooler setup, but with the RP filter, pressure cruising was 59-60 PSI at that temperature, compared to around 53-54 PSI with the previous cooler setup. Idle once warm never fell below 48-49 PSI, and the temperature fell much quicker once I moved away from freeway speeds/RPM. She was hovering around 195F before reaching the freeway on the country backroads (60ish MPH) and once on the FM roads after the freeway (60-65 MPH with traffic lights), she was around 200F. I didn't go WOT at all but at one point I did reach about 4800 RPM and had 68 PSI of oil pressure so I am much happier with the RP filters and larger AN lines, much less pressure drop at RPM. Before at WOT I had about 63 PSI when hot with the cooler. I will see how it is this afternoon with higher temperatures, more traffic, and typically heavier load for the real comparison results - I will make a new table tomorrow.

I also ran the lines and mounted the cooler in a position where I could relatively easily lower it for accurate oil level measurement. Since the cooler is mounted with the inlet/outlet on it's side, the cooler slowly drains back to the pan and I was able to fill the cooler by running it for 5 minutes, lower the oil cooler below the pan, shut off the truck, make sure the dipstick was full to the normal indicated mark, then re-install the cooler, wait a while and find the new level. It's at the first bend in the factory dipstick about an inch or so above the factory full mark.

As for the filter, I had 3 more 20-820 oil filters so I bought both threads (M22x1.5 & 3/4"-16) for the remote filter mount and started with the M22x1.5 to use up existing inventory. I have 2 30-8A filters and the 3/4"-16 filter mount ready to install once I exhaust the existing inventory.

I am really impressed with the -10AN lines and RP filters as the pressure is so much better with these items, the small fram filter just had too much pressure drop and at WOT I think the -8AN lines were just too small. I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch but if these pressures continue and probably improve slightly with the larger filter, I will forgo the hellcat oil pump and stick with this setup as-is. I usually pay more for quality products but have been frugal lately as we are building and its so stupid how much we are paying now vs what we could've been paying before had everything gone to plan. Anyhow, buy once, cry once, don't forget, even though I sometimes do. I am also excited for the amount of shop towels that will be saved with the new filter location and how clean the top of the rack and crossmember will stay.

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That looks really good. I've never had much luck building lines on the floor either,i'm impressed with how good they turned out though.

 

[1SLwLS1]

That looks really good. I've never had much luck building lines on the floor either,i'm impressed with how good they turned out though.

Thanks, I’m honestly very surprised. It’s been like 10 years since I’ve built AN lines, much less without my typical shop setup. Very relieved.

Definitely going to have to find the honeycomb grill setup, the radiator did not like the giant HEX heating up the air even further and taking over 1/2 of the main air flow. ECT was up to around 203F while EOT stayed under 215F with much warmer ambient of 90+F. I’ll review the log in the AM and make a table.

 

[Wild one]

Thanks, I’m honestly very surprised. It’s been like 10 years since I’ve built AN lines, much less without my typical shop setup. Very relieved.

Definitely going to have to find the honeycomb grill setup, the radiator did not like the giant HEX heating up the air even further and taking over 1/2 of the main air flow. ECT was up to around 203F while EOT stayed under 215F with much Warner ambient of 90+F. I’ll review the log in the AM and make a table.

At one point in time,i was seriously thinking of opening the holes up in the sport grill by slotting a bunch of them together,but then found somebody who wanted to swap their honeycomb inserts instead. I wasn't a big fan of the chrome slats,so i was more then happy to make the trade.

 

[1SLwLS1]

Yea I’m using this as an excuse for some aesthetic change as well, the chrome has not aged well.