46RE transmission concerns

[Shadow91]

Okay, picked up a 2000 Ram Laramie 4x4 5.9 a couple days ago for a screaming deal ($800) and was able to drive it home. Previous owner swore up and down the transmission was toast and it needed a new one. Went picked it up, put about 3 quarts of fluid in it and it drove fantastic. Did a filter change and trans pan gasket (was leaking from cork pan gasket something fierce) and ran into a few issues. First off, I ordered a filter and gasket direct from Dodge. VIN ran, parts pulled from my exact VIN. Removed pan and filter and noticed a slight difference in filters. The one I removed was a flat foam like filter. Had 3 T25 mounting bolts and that was all. The one I got from Dodge was a metal encased filter with only 2 mounting bolts. Called 4 different Dodge dealers, they all confirmed I had the correct filter and I was just advised to mount with the 2 bolts and it'd be okay. So after new filter and fluid truck shifted great and ran fantastic. Very very smooth shifts and no jerking or flares between shifts. Then last night after about 75 miles and some highway driving, was coming up a fairly large hill and the trans was jumping between a few gears then the OD OFF light came on. Wouldn't let me turn it back on or off, just stayed on. No difference in the way the transmission shifted or ran. Just had the OD OFF light on and after that it was all in town driving so not sure if it was shifting into OD or not. Didn't go above 35mph. Checked fluid and fluid was good and full. Let the truck cool down for about an hour and half (I had got to where I was going) then when I went to drive it home the OD OFF light was off and the trans shifted flawlessly the 45 miles back to my place.

Any idea what's going on? Did I use the wrong filter even though Dodge swears I had the right one? Anything in particular I need to check?

Little back ground on me real quick, I am a Technician and worked for Chevrolet for around 3 years. I do have some experience with transmission tear down and rebuilds (4L60E anyone?) and am now in an independent shop. So I have full access to whatever tools I may need and a lift. Just trying to see what's common on these 46RE's and what I need to do before tearing down a transmission. I did notice that the thermostat is staying open so I'm going to fix that fist and go from there.


Other then the above, what all do I need to do to keep a 46RE on the road? What preventative measures can I do and what do I need to keep an eye out on?

Should also add that im mainly looking to keep this truck stock. It MIGHT see a leveling kit but very unlikely. I got this to tow my 2 quads and a small boat, any maybe a larger flat bed trailer with a SxS and a couple quads. It is not a daily driver and will be parked more often then not.

Thanks in advance and sorry for my novel. If more information is needed I'll do what I can to get it.

 

[dapepper9]

Od off light comes on when fluid temp reaches 250°F. Locks out overdrive/4th (whichever term you prefer, they're the same). You used the correct filter. The one you mentioned removing is the old style. Honestly, not a big deal there. They both operate in the same fashion, the new just stops contaminants from falling off into the pan by encasing the filter. If you tear it apart they're virtually identical.

So, basically your fluid is getting hot in overdrive. Not "normal" but common. Cooling is very important for 46REs that don't have aftermarket valvebody fixes. Does your trans have an auxiliary cooler? If not, i suggest installing one. Temp gauge is a lifesaver as well.

The tq converters in these trucks are **** and they wear out causing a lot of heat buildup. Wear on the bands, clutches and the overdrive unit in general all exacerbate the issue.

If it's any consolation, mine does it as well. In fact it's been doing it for the last 30k miles. Honestly my trans probably should've been replaced 50k miles ago. Yet with minor valvebody work, dual rv coolers and the cooler line check valve delete mod (we can go over that later) the damn thing handles undergeared differentials, nearly 100 extra hp, has done sled pulling, mud bogging, street racing and pulled the occasional trailer all whilst being my daily

 

[Sterling]

Mine acted similarly. I found the "of spring" was broken. I ordered a kit from cascade transmission (spring and solenoid) and it solved the issue other than I get a 1740 code. Probably burned the clutches in the torque converter.

Good luck

 

[Basslicks]

..... Yet with minor valvebody work, dual rv coolers and the cooler line check valve delete mod (we can go over that later)...

You have my attention.

 

[dapepper9]

You have my attention.

There's a check valve in the line going TO the trans cooler that likes to clog up. Many including myself delete it. Issue with this is you need to put the trans in neutral to begin pumping fluid. Trans doesn't pump in park. Shift kits fix that as well

 

[Shadow_Death]

Mine is the older style that had the little ball valve. Someone beat me to it and removed mine already.

 

[Basslicks]

There's a check valve in the line going TO the trans cooler that likes to clog up. Many including myself delete it. Issue with this is you need to put the trans in neutral to begin pumping fluid. Trans doesn't pump in park. Shift kits fix that as well

I thought they already didn't pump fluid in park. Says right on the dispstick to check in neutral (a surprise I didn't find out until AFTER I freaked out a little thinking the trans fluid was over-filled by the PO).

 

[dapepper9]

I thought they already didn't pump fluid in park. Says right on the dispstick to check in neutral (a surprise I didn't find out until AFTER I freaked out a little thinking the trans fluid was over-filled by the PO).

Correct, they don't. Check valve holds a reserve of fluid so when you go from park to a gear the converter is still filled. The delete will often drain the converter so putting it in neutral for 5-10 seconds will refill it

 

[Basslicks]

Correct, they don't. Check valve holds a reserve of fluid so when you go from park to a gear the converter is still filled. The delete will often drain the converter so putting it in neutral for 5-10 seconds will refill it

Okay makes sense.

 

[Shadow_Death]

Yup, I just got in the habit of putting mine into neutral and cranking it that way while I setup what I want to listen to on the way to work.