5/7 drop from belltech 2/4

[Posjr]

After a year of running on belltech 2/4 i finally got the ihc 5/7 kit. The 2/4 kit rode just horrible and would bottom out and rub my inner fender daily. My front would sway up and down like I had no shocks. And this is with QA1 shocks set to max.

I don't want to go through this again so any help would be appreciated. Here's where I'm at.
5/7 ihc
fr70 22x10

Tires i have in my cart Rear 315/30/22 , front 285/30/22
Front shocks im leaning towards Bilstein 4600 24-187480

The part im wondering is would it be better to get drop shocks rather than normal shocks. Is there even a difference?

 

[1SloRam]

Lot of folks run the Viking shocks from Moe’s, heard nothing but good about qa1’s, but everyone has diff experiences.
I want a 5/7 kit, currently at 2/4. Did you buy the entire kit or just the front control arms?

 

[Posjr]

Lot of folks run the Viking shocks from Moe’s, heard nothing but good about qa1’s, but everyone has diff experiences.
I want a 5/7 kit, currently at 2/4. Did you buy the entire kit or just the front control arms?

I bought just the arms. The rear relocation bracket I did buy awhile back because my rear was bottoming out bad with my tools. Going to try to use my rear belltech springs since they did come with the pan bar bracket too.

Its weird I got my qa1 part # off the sticky on shocks here. In the back of my mind I sometimes wonder did I get the wrong springs and got them for a standard cab. I own a crew cab. I did check my order and was correct but who know whats in the box.

 

[1SloRam]

From my understanding the only variations are for 4WD and 2WD on the Belltech kits. I was gonna say all you needed was the arms since they cut down the springs to achieve the drop anyway. I haven’t changed shocks yet so I’m just going off what I’ve read on the forums.

 

[Posjr]

Found one problem when switching to the 5/7 kit. One of my qa1 shocks was blown. Springs had the right part # for my truck. Eitherway truck runs great now. Waiting on my viking shocks should be good to go.

 

[Posjr]

Here an updated on the drop. Only done the front and the sway bar is at a 45deg angle. Not happy with that. Thats next on the fix. Still waiting on the Viking shots. Did some hard cornering and got some rubs. Hopefully the swaybar correction and shocks will help that.

 

[beebop]

Look at MOOG K80337 end links to help get your front sway bar closer to level. They're for a Ford truck, but they're shorter than your current stock links. They're available at most any auto parts store. 100% bolt-on.

 

[Posjr]

Look at MOOG K80337 end links to help get your front sway bar closer to level. They're for a Ford truck, but they're shorter than your current stock links. They're available at most any auto parts store. 100% bolt-on.

Ordered. Thanks

 

[beebop]

Hopefully the MOOGS will get your swaybar where you need it, although with 5" of drop you might wind up having to search for something even shorter. If so, check ADDCO, they list links as short as 3/4" working length.

 

[Posjr]

Can someone tell me how much turns can they get on there steering wheel. After the 5/7 drop my radius is just horrible. Can't even park in a parking spot now. Have to park farther out where there is no cars.

Right now I can turn my steering wheel 1 1/4 turns. Was just looking at the arms and I see where it's hitting. May need to shave abit off my spindle.

 

[Wild one]

Can someone tell me how much turns can they get on there steering wheel. After the 5/7 drop my radius is just horrible. Can't even park in a parking spot now. Have to park farther out where there is no cars.

Right now I can turn my steering wheel 1 1/4 turns. Was just looking at the arms and I see where it's hitting. May need to shave abit off my spindle.

It's a well known issue. I've never heard of anybody actually coming up with a fix though,but you might be onto to something with some slight trimming. If you do,post up some pics when you're done.

 

[Posjr]

It's a well known issue. I've never heard of anybody actually coming up with a fix though,but you might be onto to something with some slight trimming. If you do,post up some pics when you're done.

I went ahead today and shaved abit off the tab that is causing wheel lock. Wasn't able to do much before my wheel hits my over size sway bar I'm sure with stock sway bar you can shave alittle more. Still cant make a simple u turn with out reversing.

 

[LLamaFruit1124]

With the IHC kit was there any welding? Did the whole kit just bolt on?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

With the ihc kit, to keep a somewhat stock turning radius, you have to cut the tab off the spindle flush. Otherwise it will kit the control arm and leave an indentation.

Ford f150 sway bar end links from a 2008 model will correct the sway bar position.

There is no recommended welding for the ihc kit. Front is bolt on, some minor triming, such as bump stop removal and cutting the tab off the spindle.

In the rear you cut the upper control arm brackets off the diff and bolt on new control arm brackets to the lower control arm location on the rear diff. Instructions are provided on the website and are free to download.

 

[Wild one]

With the IHC kit was there any welding? Did the whole kit just bolt on?

You can put a couple spot welds on the rear relocation brackets if you want to. Helps to keep them from moving around and loosening off,but there's alot of guys running around with them just bolted on.Techinically there's no welding involved,but if you have access to a mig,it doesn't hurt to put a couple spot welds on them.I ran a couple beads on my earlier Illicit brackets,and have never had any issues with a bolt backing off,or needing to be retorqued.

 

[LLamaFruit1124]

I see. I'm in Iowa so I want to be able to put it back to stock for the winter time so cutting/welding is out of the question for me because its my only vehicle. I guess I'll have to see what the hype about the Beltech 2"/4" kit is all about!

 

[LLamaFruit1124]

Thank you both for the information you provided!!

 

[Wild one]

I see. I'm in Iowa so I want to be able to put it back to stock for the winter time so cutting/welding is out of the question for me because its my only vehicle. I guess I'll have to see what the hype about the Beltech 2"/4" kit is all about!

Yea if you're going to remove it every fall,i wouldn't bother lowering it.They aren't the easiest thing to remove,and re-install every spring,plus you'll need a wheel alignment each time. BTW your axles are your lowest point,so if you stick with stock height tires,your clearance basically doesn't change,unless you go really low,but a 2/4 drop won't change your snow clearance any