5.7 hemi tick after rebuild

[Jervis]

Hello,

I have a 14 ram 2500 with the 5.7 hemi so no mds. A few months ago I developed a significant tick in the engine. Both manifolds had just been replaced so it was not a broken bolt.

I took it to the dealer for a second opinion thinking lifter problem. They confirmed my suspicion and thought it was stuck roller as well on the lifter and likely starting to wear cam.

So I took the engine apart and found the #1 intake lifter had a bad bearing but the roller was still spinning. It looks like the lifter shaft was worn as the roller was still spinning and not worn but there was about 0.05 - 0.06” of play in the lifter roller.

One of the other 16 had a small amount of play but hard to even detect. Could not feel any wear on the cam but the hardened wear surface had some visual uneven contact. Long story short decided to change cam and all the lifters. Went oem cam and lifters. Read somewhere that it was likely a bad batch of lifters that were supplied to ram from 2011–2015 or something like that.

Put the engine back together started it up and was misfiring. On 5 of 8 cylinders. Pulled the valve cover back off and Found I had incorrectly installed the #8 exhaust push rod.

Properly installed push rod retorqued rocker shaft and started truck. All good.

I have been driving the truck for the last month or so and everything works fine except i hear lifter tick again on start up. I wouldn’t be concerned if it was a second or two but it’s probably closer to a 30s to a minute. Almost like the top end isn’t getting oil right away.

It goes away after that. Oil pressure is good and I’m running pennzoil ultra synthetic 5w-20 with Mobil filter. Changed the oil after the first 500kms.

Again sorry for the long post but just curious if anyone else has any thoughts?

 

[Daw14]

Did you plane your manifolds when they were off ? The manifolds may be warped . you should check really well for new leaks,maybe a piece of hose can be used like a stethoscope.

 

[Burla]

Consider a lubrication strategy, search the board, redline or lubegard. Redline is close to 80% success and lubegard is about 50%, read the thread and the polls on those threads. Royal Purple 20-820 is another proven filter that leaves better flow then the more restrictive filters.

So yes the pushrobs seams to be the most common issue on new ones. Is your current hemi tick exactly like your old hemi tick in sound and cadence? You never had the misfire prior to this, not even once? It is very common to have tick after new lifters or even lifters and cam when the tick was there first, it happens all the time here.

 

[Burla]

When they used flat tappet lifters those lifters didnt even have rollers and all they needed to work is high zinc oil. So over a decade ram forum has had too many guys to count test this stuff. High Moly and Zinc are just as beneficial to hemi's as zinc is to a flat tappet. Plus, as a bonus you add esters and branched chain pao base oils, and you get a high success rate at killing tick. In those threads you can see even with metallurgy the cam is not the issue. I am very confident the cam is not the issue from as long as I much as I have heard. When you do get the misfire, it is over, you need to replace cam, but your misfire was not related to cam, so obviously your good. Something in the lifter bore causes restriction and pressure down when the cam lob hits it. The plating effect of moly and ep base oils can often cure that.

This does not mean it will kill that tick, the fact is maybe nothing can, that deal is what it is. You have a lot of know how, so mess with the lash and see if there is play anywhere else.

 

[Jervis]

Thanks for the quick replies fellas, it’s much appreciated. Sorry I should have mentioned I did have both manifolds planned at the local machine shop before reassembly.

New tick is less than the old one for sure but just longer on start up than I would like to think is good i guess type of deal.

There were no miss fire codes before I took it apart. The tick was quite loud and I was nervous it was starting to impact the cam and didn’t want the metal fillings if I could avoid it.

 

[Burla]

It took a decade to get these results, every single person who took it on was encouraged to report any finding, either positive or negative so we get an exact as possible %. read those threads below. It is nothing but science, the science follows the results. Heavy extreme pressure additives and base oils are built for this. You cant expect to buy a shelf oil without much of these and expect it to perform. I'd move to 5w30 as well, 5w30 redline is the most proven tick killer on the board. if you try it, give it 500 miles and report your results, good luck.

redline



https://www.ramforum.com/threads/did-lubegard-biotech-kill-your-hemi-tick.165061/
lubeguard biotech

.

 

[jws123]

No matter what you do hemis will be noisy on startup 30k miles on new lifters and i still get some startup noise.

 

[MudSkipper]

run the factory oil, that is leak down tick from the lifters... doesnt hurt anything.

New lifters/pushrods can make slight ticking on startup due to "gaps" that havent seated. (pushrod tips to rocker arms, lifter tops to pushrods).

If it DOESNT go away you got a problem.

Gen 3 Hemi REBUILD ALL HINTS AND TRICKS you need!

It got long but hey... Here is everything you need to know about rebuilding your Gen 3 Hemi.

youtu.be

 

[MudSkipper]

Also IF you want to know the true health of your engine, take an oil sample, after warm(cool enough to drain) and send it off the black stone laboratories. They will tell you everything about your engine health

 

[Cbisme72]

No matter what you do hemis will be noisy on startup 30k miles on new lifters and i still get some startup noise.

Just finished lifters and cam swap last week...a little lifter noise at first , but few times now at start up I get a quick 1 time tink pop sound...like hitting a can w bb gun tink sound...only couple times now at start. All gouges and Temps are good, truck runs good and no codes....aprox 3k miles on top end 140k on truck. Any ideas?

 

[jws123]

Just finished lifters and cam swap last week...a little lifter noise at first , but few times now at start up I get a quick 1 time tink pop sound...like hitting a can w bb gun tink sound...only couple times now at start. All gouges and Temps are good, truck runs good and no codes....aprox 3k miles on top end 140k on truck. Any ideas?

If you used mds lifters it will be noisy for a few secs at startup when it sits overnight they bleed off.

 

[Cbisme72]

Yes sir thanks for responding....this tink pop sound is different tho...its a quick 1 time sound at start up only last 1/2 sec...and sounds like it's on passenger side...problem is only does it from time to time so hard to diagnose w someone else listening!! Maybe a diaphragm or silinoid pressurized at startup....but its definitely somen that we never heard before.

 

[jws123]

Yes sir thanks for responding....this tink pop sound is different tho...its a quick 1 time sound at start up only last 1/2 sec...and sounds like it's on passenger side...problem is only does it from time to time so hard to diagnose w someone else listening!! Maybe a diaphragm or silinoid pressurized at startup....but its definitely somen that we never heard before.

Well if you ever manage to record it post it but probably just reg lifter noise tho.

 

[Bmags]

I wouldn’t worry about it

 

[Bmags]

I had one that ticked, lasted 300k and then I sold the truck. I always wanted to lengthen the pushrod just a hair to see if that would fix it but I never did

 

[Cbisme72]

Well if you ever manage to record it post it but probably just reg lifter noise tho.

 

[Cbisme72]

After horn beeps 2x tou can hear a quick pop at start up....cold engine when been sitting over night. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Cbisme72]

We still have a little pop at start up occasionally, I think is small head gasket leak as we are loosing about 1-2 gallons a week somewhere...its not in oil and no visible leaks...I think I messed up re using my old head bolts. Guess they did stretch and it's not torqued enough to seal 100%. What's odds of just replacing new head bolts and re torque per specs? Thanks in advance!